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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread

973K views 3K replies 316 participants last post by  mcascio 
#1 · (Edited)

Electronic House 2013 Gold Award Winner
Best Home Theater $25,000 - $75,000
 
 

AVS Home Theater of the Month
 
 
SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 3 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners
* BACK ROW: 4 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K S-5000 THX
* ATMOS TOP FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* ATMOS TOP REAR LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* BACK LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SUB1: M&K MX-350 THX
* SUB2: HSU VTF-15H
* SUB 3 & 4: DIY Flat Pack Builds - Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer  4 Cubic Feet each

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* BEFORE WALLS: 27' Deep x 17'9" Wide (excludes theater foyer entryway)
* FINISHED ROOM AFTER SOUND PROOFING: 25'8" Deep x 16'9.5" Wide
* NOTES: The theater is being constructed in part of our unfinished basement. There is a 23" drop in the basement to allow for stadium seating.
* SHORTEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION: 8'10"
* TALLEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION in Drop Down area: 10'9"
* Front Row: 8'6" from Front of Seat to screen
* Back Row: 14'7" from Front of Seat to screen
* Projector: 16'2" from Lens to Screen
* Screen: 136" Wide 2.35
VIEWING DISTANCE TO BOTTOM OF SCREEN FROM CENTER FRONT ROW
* SEAT INCLINED: 10' 5 1/2"
* SEAT DECLINED: 11' 2"
 

EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon X5200W, OLD: Denon AVR-4520CI (11.2), OLD: Onkyo NX-TR3008 (FOR SALE)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-5 (Center, Front Left & Right, Side Surround Left & Right)
* AMP: Behringer EP4000 (2 Dayton Subs)
* AMP: (2) Dayton APA100 (Atmos Speakers Top Front & Top Rear inside Soffit)
* BLU-RAY PLAYER: Dune HD Max
* GAMING: PS3, (2) XBOX-360
* POWER CONDITIONER: Belkin PF60
* IMAGE PROCESSING: Darbee Darblet DVP5000
* STORAGE: Cinemar MLD-4000 12 TB Mass Storage Server
* PROJECTOR: Panasonic PT-AE8000U
* SCREEN: 136" Wide 2.35 AT Screen (Seymour AV)
* TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer / DVDLobby
* REMOTE CONTROL: Logitech Harmony 700
* LIGHTING CONTROL: Insteon via MainLobby
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Proliphix NT-20E Thermostat via MainLobby
* INTERCOM: Not sure yet - most likely go with Russound
 
CARPETING
* Masland Quadrate Times Square
 
FABRIC
* Red Walls - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#418) Claret Accent Fabric
* Speaker Frames - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#408) Black Fabric
* Top of Front Cabinet Below Screen & Sides of Vertical Front Cabinets Facing Screen - Protostar Self-Adhesive Flocked Light Trap Material
* Bordering Edges that the Seymour AV Screen sit's on - Black Triple Plush Velvet

SOUND PROOFING
The room above the theater is a nursery and office. One of the rooms next to the theater is a furnace room. So it's important to keep the sound out of the rooms above and prevent sound coming in from the furnace room.
Current plan of attack is to use two layers of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue with sound absorption clips. Staggered stud walls will be on any framed walls.
* Minimum 1-3/4" Solid Core Door with automatic door bottom.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Hand painted black light star ceiling painted by Night Sky Murals
 
VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER
* A 40" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Number of Movies watched in theater, Minutes remaining of playing movies, movies coming soon, lbs of popcorn consumed, etc.  The user interface on the LED Movie Poster is powered by MainLobby.
 
BASS SHAKERS
Aura Pro Bass Shakers in Back Row (4 Chairs)

SOUND TREATMENT
Recycled Denim/ Titus EcoShield (1" x 4' x 50') (Bought from Vyron Corporation)

D-BOX MOTION PLATFORM
D-Box Motion Platform in Front Row (3 Chairs)


VIRTUAL (MATTERPORT) WALK-THROUGH OF CINEMAR HOME THEATER
https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ur3p2q8Hk9r



UNFINISHED BASEMENT AREA


FINAL ATMOS SPEAKER PLACEMENT






MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Side View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Side View - RESERVED)

LATEST THEATER DESIGN (3D View)







 
 
FABRICS, CARPET & PAINT INFORMATION

 
 
 
COMPOSITED 3D IMAGE WITH ACTUAL PHOTO [There is an angled divider.  The Left Upper Area is the actual photo, the right lower area is 3D]

 
FINAL ACTUAL PHOTO WITH NIGHT SKY MURAL STAR CEILING:

 
LED TV MOVIE POSTER DISPLAYS CURRENTLY PLAYING MOVIE AND ACTUAL START / END TIMES USING CINEMAR'S MAINLOBBY SOFTWARE

 
iPad Movie Selection using Cinemar Software. Also controls thermostat, lighting, projector, receiver and security.

 
THREAD INDEX
* 12.22.09 - Construction Thread Started
* 04.27.10 - Generac House Generator Installed
* 12.04.10 - Cleaned up 4 Miles of Cable in Media Rack
* 03.19.11 - Construction Lumber and Green Glue arrived, Reworked Sump Pump Area and Added Additional Breakers to Media Rack Closet
* 03.25.11 - 3D Renders of Rec Room Area outside Theater
* 03.27.11 - Framing of Interior Basement Walls Started
* 04.03.11 - Theater Framing Started, Foundation Injection Crack Repair Completed
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Construction using Whisper Clips, DC-04 Clips, Drywall and OSB
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Heating/Cooling Supply Sound Proofing
* 04.21.11 - 3D Wireframe Composite of Seats and Columns within Theater Shell
* 05.29.11 - Dead Vent Framed and Plumbing for Bar Sink Moved out of Theater
* 06.01.11 - Started Framing Soffits
* 06.04.11 - 3D Illustration of Clips and Channel Construction
* 06.06.11 - Started Framing Interior Theater Walls
* 06.08.11 - Raising the Sunken Concrete Floor Up
* 06.12.11 - Theater Room Wiring Diagram
* 06.12.11 - Suspended Sound Proofed Vent Muffler Diagram
* 06.15.11 - Started Construction of Vent Mufflers
* 06.19.11 - Ran Wiring for Speakers, Bass Shakers, Cat5 and Subs. Puddy Pads
* 06.23.11 - Can Light Backer Box Construction
* 06.23.11 - Initial Lighting Diagram
* 06.25.11 - Vent Muffler Installed using IB-3 Clips
* 06.26.11 - Corner Clamps, Acoustic Sealant, Network Thermostat Wired, R19 in Ceiling Started
* 06.29.11 - Speaker and Column Placement Diagram and Discussions
* 06.29.11 - Pipe Wrap on Vent Boots, IB-3 Clips on 2nd Vent Muffler, Instulating Vent Muffler
* 07.01.11 - 2nd Vent Muffler Installed into Soffit
* 07.01.11 - TIP: Whisper Clip Inside Corner Placement Diagram
* 07.03.11 - Hung Whisper Clips and Started Installed Hat Channel
* 07.05.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 1 and all Hat Channels Installed
* 07.07.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 2 - From the Inside of the Cold Air Return
* 07.11.11 - Tips and Tricks to hanging Whisper Clips and Hat Channels
* 07.13.11 - HVAC Items Completed: Dead Vent Inline Fan Installed and enclosed, Air Tubes installed for Vent Dampers and Arzel Zones
* 07.18.11 - Theater Insulation Nearly Complete, All Holes Caulkded and Puddy Pads on Light Gang Boxes
* 07.18.11 - Theater Foyer Sheet Rocked
* 07.31.11 - 5/8" OSB and Plywood installed on Ceiling
* 08.04.11 - 5/8" OSB Installed on Walls (First Layer)
* 08.06.11 - 5/8" Drywall and Green Glue Installed on Walls and Ceiling (Second Layer)
* 08.09.11 - Taping and Mudding Drywall Begins
* 08.10.11 - Gray Primer Applied to Drywall
* 08.12.11 - Our Newborn Arrives
* 08.13.11 - Cement Floor Cut up to Recess Electrical and Data Outlets for Back Row Seating
* 08.21.11 - Elk Security Panel Cleaned Up
* 08.22.11 - MainLobby User Interface for the Elk Security System
* 09.09.11 - Photos of Basement
* 09.21.11 - Patch Panel Cabinet Framed In and Bar Area Cabinets Installed
* 09.26.11 - 2x4x12's Added to Soffit and Stairway Platform Construction Begins
* 09.28.11 - First Row Riser Construction Started
* 09.28.11 - Granite Bar Top Installed
* 09.28.11 - DBox Alumninum Frame Assembled
* 10.04.11 - First Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.05.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.06.11 - Profile Illustration of Bar Construction Outside Theater
* 10.11.11 - Riser Step Framing Started
* 10.15.11 - Front Stage Framing Started
* 10.19.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Added to Front Stage and Steps
* 10.20.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Wireframe Render
* 10.22.11 - Filled Stage with Sand
* 10.24.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 10.24.11 - Insulated Areas of Front Stage and Side Steps
* 10.25.11 - Cutting OC703 and Corner Bass Traps Installed
* 10.26.11 - Projected Video onto Wall for estimating Appropriate Screen
* 10.26.11 - Nailed Two Layers of Recycled Denim to Screen Wall
* 10.27.11 - 3D Renders of Red Vs Black Soffit Underside
* 11.02.11 - Cut 16 Holes for 4" LED Can Lights
* 11.04.11 - First Coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue rolled onto Star Ceiling Area
* 11.11.11 - Can Light Housing Installed in Open Soffit
* 11.12.11 - Patch Panel Terminated
* 11.13.11 - Started 3/4" MDF Speaker Column
* 11.18.11 - Column Construnction Plans with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Moulding Installed on Bar Cabinets
* 11.18.11 - Bar Plan with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Rec Room Photos
* 11.21.11 - More Column Construction and Moulding
* 11.22.11 - Detailed Diagram of Mouldings and their Profiles used in the Theater
* 11.23.11 - Building a Removable Magnet Speaker Frame with Black GOM Fabric
* 12.12.11 - Spray Painting 4" LED Can Lights Black
* 12.14.11 - Installed 4" LED Can Lights
* 12.17.11 - Completed Removable Speaker Grill Frames
* 12.18.11 - Attaching Columns to the Wall
* 12.19.11 - Installing Gang Boxes for Data and Electric into Columns
* 12.26.11 - Started working on Oak Steps and Bull Nose
* 12.27.11 - Quick Tips on Cutting Curves with the Jig Saw
* 12.27.11 - Carpet VS Hard Wood on Stage Renders and Discussion
* 12.31.11 - Creating the Large Curved Bull Nose in front of the Front Row
* 01.03.12 - Started Cutting the Oak for the top of the Front Stage
* 01.08.12 - Adding 1/2" Base Shoe under Oak Steps and Bull Nose to create Rounded Underside Edge, Assembling the Front Stage Step
* 01.13.12 - Assembling the Top Front Oak Stage
* 01.16.12 - Using a Biscuit Joiner to Assemble the Front Oak Stage
* 01.21.12 - Started Attaching Lower Third 3/4" MDF Panels to Wall using Green Glue and Screws
* 01.22.12 - Finished Mounting all Columns
* 01.26.12 - Photo Comparison of Protostar, Sy Fabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet and Fidelio Velvet
* 01.29.12 - Routered Bull Nose with a 1/2" Round Over Bit on Front and 1/8" Round Over Bit on Back Side
* 02.01.12 - Started Building 45 Degree Front Corner Cabinet Frames
* 02.09.12 - Started Building Front Arched Cabinet Frame
* 02.15.12 - Notching the Divider Facers for the Front Cabinet Frame
* 02.18.12 - Front Center Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.20.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 02.22.12 - Front Corner Cabinet Doors Installed
* 02.23.12 - TIP: Assembling Bowed Boards during Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.27.12 - Added Base Cap Moulding to Cabinet Doors
* 03.04.12 - Magnetic Latches
* 03.11.12 - Creating a Sharped Seam Fabric Soffit
* 03.18.12 - Installed a Recessed Temperature Sensor
* 03.19.12 - Finished Sanding Bare MDF Column Edges down to 220 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/post/1470#post_21797382"
* 03.21.12 - Built Corner Pine Cap
* 03.22.12 - Applied MH Ready Patch to all joints and Screw Holes on Columns 
* 03.25.12 - Finished GG all lower wall MDF, Notched Bullnose for Baseboard, Final Installation of Bullnose Behind Front Row 
* 03.28.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Construction of Bullnose and Stair Tread using Base Shoe 
* 03.31.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Tall Column Construction
* 04.02.12 - Started Installing Crown Moulding around Perimeter of Room
* 04.03.12 - Coped an Inside Corner Crown Moulding
* 04.04.12 - Started Installing Chair Rail
* 04.05.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 04.07.12 - Started Column Trim Moulding, TIPS
* 04.09.12 - Started Installing Base Board
* 04.11.12 - Started Installing Panel Moulding
* 04.17.12 - Started Construction Fabric Panels
* 04.20.12 - Tips on Cutting GOM Fabric [Rotary Cutting Tool, Straigt Edge Clamp]
* 04.23.12 - Building a Fabric Frame around Receptacle Switches and Vents, Started Double Jamb Door Construction
* 04.27.12 - Installing Door Hinges and Door Lock
* 04.30.12 - Hanging Door and Double Jambs
* 05.04.12 - Built Patch Panel Door within a Fabric Frame
* 05.06.12 - Building Fabric Frames Surrounding Door Casing
* 05.07.12 - 3D Concepts of Potential Back Bar
* 05.08.12 - Assembling Moulding Frames for Columns using Framing Jig
* 05.14.12 - Started working on D-Box Platform top Using Two Layers of 3/4" Birch Plywood
* 05.17.12 - Built Recessed Access Panels for D-Box Actuators
* 05.22.12 - Started Installing GOM Fabric Under Soffit Light Tray
* 05.31.12 - Final Light Tray Moulding Diagram, Started Installing Soffit Mouldings
* 06.06.12 - Room Cleanup and then Started Priming the Room
* 06.07.12 - First Coat of Black Benjamin Moore Paint
* 06.17.12 - Installing Shelving Brackets for Speakers, Working on Theater Foyer Moulding, Stapled GOM Fabric to Cabinet Door
* 06.20.12 - Nearly Finished Painting
* 08.13.12 - Construction Completed
* 08.28.12 - LED TV Movie Poster Now Displays Start / End Time of Movie using MainLobby
* Working on Room Acoustics, Picture, Automation User Interface
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction (External Thread)
* 01.13.14 - Aura Pro Bass Shaker install in Berkline Chair
 
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#1,377 ·
I finished one of the corner cabinet double doors. I decided to add a divider in between the doors for several reasons.

1) This would give me room to correct the doors individually

2) Add's a nice design element and custom look

3) Should help keep the opening square

4) I can also use it to mount the magnetic push latch for both top/bottom doors

5) I may use it later to mount some 3/4" moulding to divide the doors visually like I've done with the other side columns


Only downside is the opening was divided. But there's still plenty of room to get a sub under it.


I had a heck of a time getting straight boards, especially for the big door. I had to pick through quite a bit and ended up with a lot of wasted material that just wasn't usable. I was probably getting one stile or rail per 8' board. I noticed after completion there's still a little skewing to the large cabinet door. Is there anyway to retrain the door if I compress it for a few days or will it always return? My thought was to use a top magnet to pull it in flush with the frame. The moulding will hopefully have a positive effect on the doors when I glue them on.













 
#1,378 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21681308


The fabric frames, door, painting and massive amount of trim work is left to do. I'm guessing, but I'd have to say there's probably 100+ hours of moulding/trim work to do given all the jots in/out because of the columns.

It will come together for sure. I remember picking up 40 pieces of 16' molding and thinking, "Holy Crap!" I think you've seen my crazy side walls and the multiple layers of trim. So I feel for you on all the ins-and-outs to come. I think you have the same miter saw as I do, which was a God-send in the end. My old single-tilt, non-slide Dewalt would have never cut it (no pun intended).


It is amazing to see it when it's all up though.
 
#1,379 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/0


I finished one of the corner cabinet double doors. I decided to add a divider in between the doors for several reasons.

1) This would give me room to correct the doors individually

2) Add's a nice design element and custom look

3) Should help keep the opening square

4) I can also use it to mount the magnetic push latch for both top/bottom doors

5) I may use it later to mount some 3/4" moulding to divide the doors visually like I've done with the other side columns


Only downside is the opening was divided. But there's still plenty of room to get a sub under it.


I had a heck of a time getting straight boards, especially for the big door. I had to pick through quite a bit and ended up with a lot of wasted material that just wasn't usable. I was probably getting one stile or rail per 8' board. I noticed after completion there's still a little skewing to the large cabinet door. Is there anyway to retrain the door if I compress it for a few days or will it always return? My thought was to use a top magnet to pull it in flush with the frame. The moulding will hopefully have a positive effect on the doors when I glue them on.

I had the same problem with a 96" door that I built. After cutting, and painting it it developed a warp of about 1/2"/foot. Luckily the concave portion was on the inside. I used my circular saw set very shallow and made kerf cuts about a quarter inch apart. I then filled theses kerfs with epoxy and sandwiched the door with wax paper and one side on my bench and the other with a dead flat piece of plywood and added weight to cure. Since I painted ht doors it was easy to conceal, but it did fix the warp. We will see when the humid summer comes if it has any signs again.
 
#1,380 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21681308


I'm glad I did decide to tackle it. I feel much more confident in doing other things around the house as well. I just repaired our ice maker this past weekend. I probably saved several hundred dollars doing it myself with about $60 in parts.

You sure did, my parents GE Monogram ice maker went out and they got a quote of something stupid like $600 to repair...my Dad ended up doing it for $125 worth of parts
 
#1,381 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedTopDown /forum/post/21681344


It will come together for sure. I remember picking up 40 pieces of 16' molding and thinking, "Holy Crap!" I think you've seen my crazy side walls and the multiple layers of trim. So I feel for you on all the ins-and-outs to come. I think you have the same miter saw as I do, which was a God-send in the end. My old single-tilt, non-slide Dewalt would have never cut it (no pun intended).


It is amazing to see it when it's all up though.

Yeah the Dewalt double compound sliding miter saw is bauce


I took this piece of crap



to this



Picture is terrible but it came out pretty awesome for my first job. There is tons of detail in that I never uploaded the close ups photos but it came out great and I am very happy. I think I used something like 17 different pieces of trim


Sorry to hi jack Mario
 
#1,383 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21681332


I noticed after completion there's still a little skewing to the large cabinet door. Is there anyway to retrain the door if I compress it for a few days or will it always return? My thought was to use a top magnet to pull it in flush with the frame. The moulding will hopefully have a positive effect on the doors when I glue them on.

The only "fix" I know of would involve cutting the door apart. If you know which part of the frame is causing the problem, you could cut it out and insert a new piece.


If the high corner of the door isn't sticking out too much, you might very well be able to pull it in with a magnet.


You might also think about whether you really need to worry about this, especially if the defect is not very big. All-black cabinets and black shadow lines could let the eye slide right past without the brain really registering a defect.
 
#1,384 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by btinindy /forum/post/21681412


I had the same problem with a 96" door that I built. After cutting, and painting it it developed a warp of about 1/2"/foot. Luckily the concave portion was on the inside. I used my circular saw set very shallow and made kerf cuts about a quarter inch apart. I then filled theses kerfs with epoxy and sandwiched the door with wax paper and one side on my bench and the other with a dead flat piece of plywood and added weight to cure. Since I painted ht doors it was easy to conceal, but it did fix the warp. We will see when the humid summer comes if it has any signs again.

Mine isn't that bad. I think if I just put a magnet at the top of the cabinet I can just push it towards it. Stil waiting for delivery of those. That's a pretty neat technique though.
 
#1,385 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/21681543


Yeah the Dewalt double compound sliding miter saw is bauce


I took this piece of crap



to this



Picture is terrible but it came out pretty awesome for my first job. There is tons of detail in that I never uploaded the close ups photos but it came out great and I am very happy. I think I used something like 17 different pieces of trim


Sorry to hi jack Mario

Larry,


Nice work. A lot of detail in that mantle! I'm looking forward to your build.
 
#1,386 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by nosdude /forum/post/21681704


GREAT WORK mcascio. The pictorial is SUPERB !!!! As a woodwork hobbyist, I'm really enjoying your build. Keep the pics coming........... Bravo Dude.

Thamks for the compliments nosdude. I'll definitely keep the pics coming.
 
#1,387 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp /forum/post/21682247


The only "fix" I know of would involve cutting the door apart. If you know which part of the frame is causing the problem, you could cut it out and insert a new piece.


If the high corner of the door isn't sticking out too much, you might very well be able to pull it in with a magnet.


You might also think about whether you really need to worry about this, especially if the defect is not very big. All-black cabinets and black shadow lines could let the eye slide right past without the brain really registering a defect.

I have a tendency to over think things. I think the magnets going to work...plus like you said, once everything is painted black...even shadow lines start to disappear.


I was having a heck of time finding any maple that didn't have some bowing to it (aside from other issues like cupping and warping). So working with what I had, I thought I would counter the bowing with another adjoining board.


So I found the natural bowing of the board and placed the perpendicular adjoing board with the bowing in the other direction. Hoping the two would counter-act each other and meet somewhere in the middle. That seemed to give me good results on the second large door I built.


Here's an illustration that will hopefully make some sense. This may be common knowledge or maybe I just got lucky, but I did have good results.
 
#1,388 ·
Here's a shot of the right front corner cabinet door installed. Bottom is built but just waiting on hinges.



I also cut the lower wall MDF by the steps. A little tricky with all the steps to workaournd but it turned out good. Does anyone know if it's critical for me to leave a half inch gap where it will meet with carpeting? I still am going to put up baseboard.






I just need to finish the lower mdf wall next to the front stage and then I can make final cuts on the bull nose and stair tread before attaching.
 
#1,390 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG /forum/post/21691415


I wouldn't worry about the gap with the MDF since you are going to put up baseboard. Leaving a 3/8" gap to tuck the carpeting is standard. 1/4" is usually too tight and 1/2" will still leave a gap and appear loose.


Theater is looking great and you are making fantastic progress. I feel so lazy when I read your thread!

Thanks. I won't worry about making it perfect then.
 
#1,391 ·
I finished cutting the MDF for the lower front walls. If I'm right, I may only need to rip one more sheet of MDF down for the rear of the room. Woohoo!


I also started removing the cabinet doors and sanding and routing the edges with a 1/8" round over bit. Then I applied some base cap moulding that I'm using throughout the room before running out of moulding.





 
#1,392 ·
Mario,


Your build is awesome and it has been a real treat following your progress along the way. Your theater is coming together nicely and the rest of your basement rocks. We all appreciate the time you take to post photos while recording your progress step-by-step; clearly, the AVS community benefits at large. So, thank you for your time. Now, can you slow down a bit so we can keep up with your posts
 
#1,393 ·
Seeing your woodworking skills I am surprised you didn't try tackling the bar cabinets. I'm contemplating building my own bar cabinets once the theater is done but we'll see what my confidence level is at that time.
 
#1,394 ·
Mario - props on the wood working to date. It will be worth it and will look great.
 
#1,395 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ModestHT /forum/post/21703780


Mario,


Your build is awesome and it has been a real treat following your progress along the way. Your theater is coming together nicely and the rest of your basement rocks. We all appreciate the time you take to post photos while recording your progress step-by-step; clearly, the AVS community benefits at large. So, thank you for your time. Now, can you slow down a bit so we can keep up with your posts

Thanks very much. I'm glad it's of use to others. I even find myself searching my own thread for answers to questions I may have asked months ago.
 
#1,396 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/21704576


Seeing your woodworking skills I am surprised you didn't try tackling the bar cabinets. I'm contemplating building my own bar cabinets once the theater is done but we'll see what my confidence level is at that time.

Hi Larry. I really didn't start doing anything in the theater or basement that was "out of my comfort zone" until the bar was almost complete. I ended up buying the Porter Cable brad nailer package because I knew I could use it to do the fabric frames in the theater. I bought it earlier since I thought I would try tackling putting up some of the moulding around the bar myself. This led me to trying some other things such as the theater columns, which led me to doing more and more construction. I was actually trying to find someone to do the bull nose and stair treads but my old neighbor had surgery. So I decided I'd give it a try.


Even knowing what I know now, I don't think I would tackle doing the bar cabinets. I think I would need more tools to do a "finished" cabinet like the ones I have in my bar. Just getting straight wood was a challenge and time consuming. I probably should have checked out the stock at a lumber yard to see if the quality was any better, but the closest one I know of is a good 45 minutes away. I would have had to deal with finishing the insides, staining, sliding drawers, pull out bins, etc. If I was retired and had plenty of time and room to put all the equipment I'd need...maybe.


I definitely could have used the money I put into the cabinets to purchase the equipment and do it myself, but chances are I'd still be working on the bar right now instead of the theater.
 
#1,398 ·
I experienced a lull due to being sick and jambing my finger.


I managed to finish all the mouldings on the front cabinets. I also finished adding the 3/4" mdf supports in the front center cabinet. I can now sit or stand on it without worry. The temporary 4x4 supports have now been removed.


I also mounted all the magnetic touch latches.


I ran into a bit of a snag where ther chair rail I was planning on wasn't in stock at the lumber yard. I'm hoping they'll be restocking since I centered everything around the 3" chair rail. Going to a 2 5/8" will get me off center a bit.


Here are the photos from the progress.

















 
#1,400 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by FRCan /forum/post/0


Absolutely incredible!! AMAZING craftsmanship! Congrats on an amazing build!!

Any chance you have a link to a full photo gallery of the build?

Hi FRCan. Thanks for reserving your first post for this thread



I appreciate your kind words.


I do not have any other full photo gallery...although this thread is pretty comprehensive if you look back.
 
#1,401 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21734275


You know its funny because I wanted to build a screen wall similiar to what you're almost complete with but never thought I could...but following you step by step I think I am going to give it a shot


Great work!
 
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