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82K views 777 replies 72 participants last post by  jedimastergrant 
#1 · (Edited)
Finished December 2013

Version 2.0 finished February 2017 added UHD and Immersive Audio plus added another Orbit Shifter





Equipment List:

Display:
JVC DLA-NZ8

Speakers:
Mains
(3) JTR Noesis 212 HT (original 3 way model like the current HTR model)

Surrounds
Base Layer- (4) JTR S8 Slanted LP
Height Layer for Immersive Audio- (4) JTR S8 Slanted LP

Subwoofers
JTR Orbit Shifter LFU (2)

Processor:
Arcam AV40

Amplifiers:
Buckeye Amplifiers HYPEX NC502MP 4 Channel
Yamaha MX-A5000

EQ:
Dirac Live with Bass Control

Sources:
Oppo UDP 203
Samsung UBD K8500
Apple TV 4K, Roku Premier Plus, NVIDIA Shield

Remote- Harmony Elite
Rack- MA ERK series

Screen:
9 ft wide (110")
2.35:1
Enlightor Neo with Seymour AV frame.
Purchased the masking panels for 1.78:1 content.









December: Slide out media rack done, Projector shelf done, AV gear installation
November: Electrical finished, final painting done, seats and screen, lots of shelving
October: Carpet installation, Rest of basement completed, Lots of work on doors
September: Fabric Frames and lots of painting
August: HVAC Return and Doors
July: Communicating door vestibule, electrical, pull out media storage
June: Subfloor, Stage, Riser, Projection room
May: Clips, Channel, osb, dw, gg,
April: Joist muffler completed
March: Subfloor treated with double drywall and green glue
4 20 amp circuits added to basement
February: Hired new contractors to help on weekends
Ordered lots of building materials
2012
November: Lots of demo
Completed decoupling of walls
October: Soundproofing materials delivered
September: Flood!!!!!!
Wall taken down again
August: Decision made to contact thesoundproofingcompany and do it right the first time
July: JTR Orbit Shifter delivered
Wall put up to enclose room
June: AVS Pro Theater Layout Service from the Erskine Group via Shawn Byrne delivered

First dedicated room with a front projector! I am utilizing the room layout service from the Erskine Group and started the process on 3-20-12.

Soundproofing:
Walls
clips and channel on ceiling
clips and channel on rear wall that is connected to stairwell wall.
existing walls were naturally decoupled from the foundation
walls that were built used staggered stud approach
all walls attached to ceiling joists using IB3's
Floor
3/8'' serenity mat
3/4'' plywood
HVAC
joist mufflers for supplies
return muffler to be made (done)
Doors
Zero International Auto door bottoms (best seals)
Zero International door seals
Solid core 1 3/4'' then added layer of 3/4" mdf with green glue between
Double door system as well with another solid core door and DIY seals

Lighting
12 cans in soffits inside of shell
rope light around soffit perimeter
4 step lights
4 Sconces

Automation
Insteon dimmers for a total of 5 zones
Insteon Hub

Dimensions:
Width 15'
Length 19' to rear wall. There will be a small "projector booth" between the HT room and the storage area behind which will house my AV gear.
Ceilings 7'9"

Here is a basic version of the plans from the layout service. My plans are now changed slightly from this layout. I will be making the length of the room 19' which means the small 3.5'x9' space in the back of the room where the projector is will be closed off making a "projector booth and equipment closet". Several reasons: the column in the back part of that space looked funny just hanging out in the middle of nowhere, I wanted to put the projector outside of the room for heat and noise and did not want to couple it to the ceiling bc the kitchen and 3 little boys are directly overhead. This also allows me to do my AV rack outside the room and not worry about the noise, heat, or light pollution.

Click in pictures to enlarge.









Video
Here is a video that will probably help to give a better idea of the space I have to work with.



Picture of the front wall where screen will be.


Here is a similar angle after the flood and some demo.





Picture from the front of the room looking at the stairwell and the space where the wall will go.



Rear of the room post demo.




Picture of the back of the room showing entrance to the unfinished storage area where the equipment rack will be.




Back of the room post demo.



I am ceiling ht limited in this room anyway and there is a support beam and a bit of HVAC duct in the front that drops down about 9'' from the ceiling.

Seating-
Front row is 3 Berkline Director leather theater recliners (Electric recline!) at around 9.5 ft from the screen.
Second row is a large 3 seat Natuzzi leather couch with recliners on each end along with a matching Natuzzi leather reclining chair so it seats 4 adults comfortably.

Sound Treatments-
As prescribed in the avs layout.
Quest Perfsorb at first reflection points.
The rest is OC 705 DIY panels. Several 2 inch absorption panels and several diffusion panels. Treatment on all of front wall is OC Select Sound Black.
Riser made into bass trap.
Ceiling (3) GIK 242 panels

Stage-
I am copying the Sunset Cinema stage. 1 ft tall and approx 5 ft deep. Filled with sand. Do what I can to stop the Orbit Shifter from shaking the screen (accomplished).

Projector Shelf
Would like to avoid a ceiling mount because of little feet in the kitchen above shaking the projector. I mounted a shelf to the walls with IB3 clips for decoupling and placed serenity matt on top of the shelf as well and no shaking so far.
 

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#27 ·
I just started the layout service with the Erskine Group so now everything is subject to change.


I think you are right about the proposed door location needing to be treated. Can't I just place treatments on the door itself if a treatment needs to go there? Concerns that involve construction of walls etc are not included in this service so I will have to do the best I can. The door kinda needs to go there if I want to put 3-4 seats in the primary row and have enough space to go through the door without running right into the seats.


I will consider removing the doors in the back. My first plan was to put the AV rack under the stairwell just as you suggested. If not then I will have to do major rattle control and this may be frustrating. If I eliminate the doors then I will have to make another entrance to the storage area from another room and it all just adds up but we will see how things turn out.


As far as rear absorption/diffusion is concerned I was thinking about putting built in shelving in the back and I could put treatments on that. On the other hand I have become interested in building a small 2 person bar back there and moving my projector location to underneath the stairwell after cutting out a place for it to peek through.


The image from the projector will get through but what might get tight is the height of the people sitting on the riser in the back of the room especially when viewing 16:9 content. I will experiment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by desertdome /forum/post/21809124


I think your side wall on the left of the room and proposed door locations look good. The door may need to be moved back a little so that the first reflection points from the speakers to any of the listening positions are in front of the door so they can be treated.


You should consider removing the rear door and walling it off completely. This will help to seal the room better and allow for rear absorption/diffusion. The bass can also rattle doors and glass or cause resonance.


It looks like the rack could actually be mounted in the stairwell area and would be easily accessed from the back of the room. You could also cut an access panel in the storage room to the stairwell for access to the rear of the rack. The access panel could have weatherstripping around the edges and be completely sealed up when screwed on.


Have you used a projector calculator to make sure the projector can be mounted so the image will clear the rear HVAC duct and still hit the screen properly?
 
#28 ·
Carpenter coming today to frame wall that will close off HT. Planning to do a staggered stud wall flush with the existing wall. Will plan for an exterior door with a threshold and weather stripping for some sound proofing. Will leave the HT side without drywall for now to run conduit and possibly electrical.


What else should I consider?
 
#30 · (Edited)
Quote:Originally Posted by desertdome

Did you get the wall framed yesterday? If so, you are late on the pics.



Dang. Keep'n me honest. Here ya go!

The space sure feels different with the wall in place.



We left the HT side without drywall for now just in case we can't fish line through the other side like we hope.

I am planning on an exterior solid door with weatherstripping and threshold for sound. Or maybe an older solid antique door that we can modify with weatherstripping and threshold. Any suggestions?
 
#31 ·
I have 9 month old twins, a boy and a girl. I dread the day I come home to "Daddy! I drew a picture for you" and find it on my screen. Like mentioned above, we have begun to train the kids on what they can and can't touch as they are now mobile. The boy is super good, the girl on the other hand is a nightmare, she's trying to eat one of my end tables.
 
#32 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeveredDime /forum/post/21840402


I have 9 month old twins, a boy and a girl. I dread the day I come home to "Daddy! I drew a picture for you" and find it on my screen. Like mentioned above, we have begun to train the kids on what they can and can't touch as they are now mobile. The boy is super good, the girl on the other hand is a nightmare, she's trying to eat one of my end tables.

This is EXACTLY why I am doing motorized drapes that will automatically close to cover the screen when the PJ is not on. I have 3 boys. The first two are 10 months apart (almost 5 and almost 4) and the youngest is 1.
 
#33 ·
I like the idea of having the screen covered with drapes when not in use even though my room will be locked. That way there are multiple layers of defense. We can make it like Mission Impossible and in order to break into the inner sanctum of the AT screen they will have to be leaping moats and dodging laser beams!
 
#34 ·
Haha, nice.


I'm having friends over Sat night and am putting up a long kid fence pieced together so a few feet in front of the screen. We had a ton of people over for the superbowl and every single toddler was drawn to the screen with a hypnotized look on their face as they walk towards it.


Nice to see construction has begun in your basement!! I agree that you should get exterior doors with weather stripping, the doors in my basement cause the worst rattles but it's almost gone now that I have weather stripping. They are hollow, I bet if they were solid I would get no rattles at all.


I can do Sat morning if that works for you. My wife is only giving me an hour window though. Will 10:00 work for you?
 
#35 ·
So here's my sub recommendation - just cause I want to hear it.


:p


Buy four - one for each of the four corners.


Couple these with a inexpensive amp like a Inuke DSP 3000 and see how they sound!


Only out $1350 bucks between four of these subwoofers and an INuke DSP 3000. They might not dig the deepest in the world - but you'd likely have some amazingly smooth frequency response. If you wanted something deep to compliment put a DTS-10 behind that AT screen of yours. That would REALLY be a setup!


Left Side
http://www.harmanaudio.com/search_br...=NS3SL&status=


Right Side
http://www.harmanaudio.com/search_br...=NS3SR&status=


Oh -- and then invite me over to help you tune it. :p
 
#37 · (Edited)
Ding Dong!

Honey, there is something at the door called an Orbit Shifter!?!?!?!?!?

Do you know anything about this?


And so it begins....
(I posted this in the sub forums as well but it is pretty fun so here ya go)
 
#40 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea  /t/1398229/jedimastergrants-padawan-theater/30#post_22082030


So here's my sub recommendation - just cause I want to hear it.



:p



Buy four - one for each of the four corners.



Couple these with a inexpensive amp like a Inuke DSP 3000 and see how they sound!



Only out $1350 bucks between four of these subwoofers and an INuke DSP 3000. They might not dig the deepest in the world - but you'd likely have some amazingly smooth frequency response. If you wanted something deep to compliment put a DTS-10 behind that AT screen of yours. That would REALLY be a setup!



Left Side
http://www.harmanaudio.com/search_br...=NS3SL&status=



Right Side
http://www.harmanaudio.com/search_br...=NS3SR&status=







Archaea,


This is interesting. If the Rythmik F12 can't do its job I will look into it. Hefty discount!


I only need the second sub to do duty as a room mode smoother. So it needs to go high. And I want it to be small. I could even stack two of these in the corner.


Going to keep it in mind.


-Grant
 
#42 · (Edited)
Did some work last week.

Demo of the 2 existing soffits. One ended up being a support beam. I need as much height as possible so I am contemplating how best to deal with this.



What is the best way to cover the beam up and do so without losing more height? I am not opposed to rebuilding a soffit there. In fact, since the beam is already there I might as well just put the same kind of soffit in front of the beam as I will have around the sides and back of the theater. I am going to copy the Bacon Race design as much as I can with the soffits.

Any ideas on how to handle this beam?
 
#43 · (Edited)
Here is a picture of the rear of the room. The extra wide stud in the middle of the picture is where I plan to have the projector behind the wall. The left side of the wall is where the door will be.

The second wall that is going in behind it will make a little hallway where my AV rack will be and a slide out media rack.


 

Attachments

#44 · (Edited)
Here is a close up of the back. The front of the AV rack will be in the little hallway and the back of it will be in the storage area that you see there so I will have easy access to the equipment and have plenty of cooling. I plan to put a sliding media rack beside the AV rack.


 
#46 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant  /t/1398229/jedimastergrants-padawan-theater/30#post_22227822


Did some work last week.

Demo of the 2 existing soffits. One ended up being a support beam. I need as much height as possible so I am contemplating how best to deal with this.


What is the best way to cover the beam up and do so without losing more height? I am not opposed to rebuilding a soffit there. In fact, since the beam is already there I might as well just put the same kind of soffit in front of the beam as I will have around the sides and back of the theater. I am going to copy the Bacon Race design as much as I can with the soffits.

Any ideas on how to handle this beam?

Take a 2x4 and notch it so that when placed flat on top of the lower flange the 2x4 is flush with the bottom of the beam. Clamp in place and shoot with a powder actuated gun. Shooting through the 2x4 into the steel. Grind off nails that protrude through steel. Add furring to the top plate so that it matches the lower 2x4. Do the same thing to the other side. This gives you a place to secure the drywall along the edges of the drywall. Also apply glue to the bottom of the beam, so you do not have to worry about any rattle of the drywall on the bottom of the beam.


If you do not own (probably not) or do not want to rent a powder actuated gun, Then notch 2x4 for bottom flange and nail/screw furring onto side of top plate. Edge of furring and plate on bottom flange should line up vertically, same as in method above. Then cut and notch short 2x4's and install them vertically (nail/screw) wedging the lower plate against the steel flange. Glue and screw drywall to steel and framing. I have used both methods many times. You lose minimum height (drywall thickness) below the beam. Let me know if you have any questions.


Added

Since the flange is slopped, you will need to bevel the edge of the notched plate sitting on the bottom flange so that the edge of the 2x4 is vertical.
 
#47 ·
Mike,


I think I understand most of what you are describing. There are a few details that I am murky on. Is there a picture of someone else's who has done something similar?


At any rate I will show your post to the carpenter I am working with and maybe he will fill in the details I am lacking.


Should I fill the cavity with pink fluffy?


Do I need to place some kind of a decoupler, anti vibration, or small thin barrier around the steel beam?
 
#48 ·
I don't think you can fit a powder actuated nailer in that space. Nailing on an angle is a bad idea.


I would get some lengths of 20ga L channel and nail up through the channel with a 1/2" pin. Glue the GWB to the bottom and you can secure the drywall on the sides to the L.


If you can't find L, just get some 3-5/8" steel stud track and cut it down the middle. Heck, you could probably glue it to the beam with some PL if you had to.


Tim
 
#49 ·
If you don't mind the additional width you can ladder down a frame wall on both sides of the beam with the bottom edge of the ladder flush with the bottom. Fill voids with fluffy and cover with DD and GG. if you want isolation ladder from an isolated ceiling and leave a gap at the bottom between the drywall and the beam. You can use 2x2 or 2x3s.
 
#50 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim  /t/1398229/jedimastergrants-padawan-theater/30#post_22237974


I don't think you can fit a powder actuated nailer in that space. Nailing on an angle is a bad idea.

I would get some lengths of 20ga L channel and nail up through the channel with a 1/2" pin. Glue the GWB to the bottom and you can secure the drywall on the sides to the L.

If you can't find L, just get some 3-5/8" steel stud track and cut it down the middle. Heck, you could probably glue it to the beam with some PL if you had to.

Tim

Thanks MrTim,


Yeah that is a tight space so I will keep that in mind.


-Grant
 
#51 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC  /t/1398229/jedimastergrants-padawan-theater/30#post_22238009


If you don't mind the additional width you can ladder down a frame wall on both sides of the beam with the bottom edge of the ladder flush with the bottom. Fill voids with fluffy and cover with DD and GG. if you want isolation ladder from an isolated ceiling and leave a gap at the bottom between the drywall and the beam. You can use 2x2 or 2x3s.

Hey Big,


I am totally going to rip off your "minimalist approach to screen wall" That is a great thread and I have read through it many times.


Support Beam:

Yeah, I do not mind giving up the width at all. This would seem to be a simple solution and I am leaning this way.


Thanks,

-Grant
 
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