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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread

973K views 3K replies 316 participants last post by  mcascio 
#1 · (Edited)

Electronic House 2013 Gold Award Winner
Best Home Theater $25,000 - $75,000
 
 

AVS Home Theater of the Month
 
 
SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 3 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners
* BACK ROW: 4 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K S-5000 THX
* ATMOS TOP FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* ATMOS TOP REAR LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* BACK LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SUB1: M&K MX-350 THX
* SUB2: HSU VTF-15H
* SUB 3 & 4: DIY Flat Pack Builds - Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer  4 Cubic Feet each

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* BEFORE WALLS: 27' Deep x 17'9" Wide (excludes theater foyer entryway)
* FINISHED ROOM AFTER SOUND PROOFING: 25'8" Deep x 16'9.5" Wide
* NOTES: The theater is being constructed in part of our unfinished basement. There is a 23" drop in the basement to allow for stadium seating.
* SHORTEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION: 8'10"
* TALLEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION in Drop Down area: 10'9"
* Front Row: 8'6" from Front of Seat to screen
* Back Row: 14'7" from Front of Seat to screen
* Projector: 16'2" from Lens to Screen
* Screen: 136" Wide 2.35
VIEWING DISTANCE TO BOTTOM OF SCREEN FROM CENTER FRONT ROW
* SEAT INCLINED: 10' 5 1/2"
* SEAT DECLINED: 11' 2"
 

EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon X5200W, OLD: Denon AVR-4520CI (11.2), OLD: Onkyo NX-TR3008 (FOR SALE)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-5 (Center, Front Left & Right, Side Surround Left & Right)
* AMP: Behringer EP4000 (2 Dayton Subs)
* AMP: (2) Dayton APA100 (Atmos Speakers Top Front & Top Rear inside Soffit)
* BLU-RAY PLAYER: Dune HD Max
* GAMING: PS3, (2) XBOX-360
* POWER CONDITIONER: Belkin PF60
* IMAGE PROCESSING: Darbee Darblet DVP5000
* STORAGE: Cinemar MLD-4000 12 TB Mass Storage Server
* PROJECTOR: Panasonic PT-AE8000U
* SCREEN: 136" Wide 2.35 AT Screen (Seymour AV)
* TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer / DVDLobby
* REMOTE CONTROL: Logitech Harmony 700
* LIGHTING CONTROL: Insteon via MainLobby
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Proliphix NT-20E Thermostat via MainLobby
* INTERCOM: Not sure yet - most likely go with Russound
 
CARPETING
* Masland Quadrate Times Square
 
FABRIC
* Red Walls - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#418) Claret Accent Fabric
* Speaker Frames - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#408) Black Fabric
* Top of Front Cabinet Below Screen & Sides of Vertical Front Cabinets Facing Screen - Protostar Self-Adhesive Flocked Light Trap Material
* Bordering Edges that the Seymour AV Screen sit's on - Black Triple Plush Velvet

SOUND PROOFING
The room above the theater is a nursery and office. One of the rooms next to the theater is a furnace room. So it's important to keep the sound out of the rooms above and prevent sound coming in from the furnace room.
Current plan of attack is to use two layers of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue with sound absorption clips. Staggered stud walls will be on any framed walls.
* Minimum 1-3/4" Solid Core Door with automatic door bottom.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Hand painted black light star ceiling painted by Night Sky Murals
 
VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER
* A 40" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Number of Movies watched in theater, Minutes remaining of playing movies, movies coming soon, lbs of popcorn consumed, etc.  The user interface on the LED Movie Poster is powered by MainLobby.
 
BASS SHAKERS
Aura Pro Bass Shakers in Back Row (4 Chairs)

SOUND TREATMENT
Recycled Denim/ Titus EcoShield (1" x 4' x 50') (Bought from Vyron Corporation)

D-BOX MOTION PLATFORM
D-Box Motion Platform in Front Row (3 Chairs)


VIRTUAL (MATTERPORT) WALK-THROUGH OF CINEMAR HOME THEATER
https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ur3p2q8Hk9r



UNFINISHED BASEMENT AREA


FINAL ATMOS SPEAKER PLACEMENT






MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Side View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Side View - RESERVED)

LATEST THEATER DESIGN (3D View)







 
 
FABRICS, CARPET & PAINT INFORMATION

 
 
 
COMPOSITED 3D IMAGE WITH ACTUAL PHOTO [There is an angled divider.  The Left Upper Area is the actual photo, the right lower area is 3D]

 
FINAL ACTUAL PHOTO WITH NIGHT SKY MURAL STAR CEILING:

 
LED TV MOVIE POSTER DISPLAYS CURRENTLY PLAYING MOVIE AND ACTUAL START / END TIMES USING CINEMAR'S MAINLOBBY SOFTWARE

 
iPad Movie Selection using Cinemar Software. Also controls thermostat, lighting, projector, receiver and security.

 
THREAD INDEX
* 12.22.09 - Construction Thread Started
* 04.27.10 - Generac House Generator Installed
* 12.04.10 - Cleaned up 4 Miles of Cable in Media Rack
* 03.19.11 - Construction Lumber and Green Glue arrived, Reworked Sump Pump Area and Added Additional Breakers to Media Rack Closet
* 03.25.11 - 3D Renders of Rec Room Area outside Theater
* 03.27.11 - Framing of Interior Basement Walls Started
* 04.03.11 - Theater Framing Started, Foundation Injection Crack Repair Completed
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Construction using Whisper Clips, DC-04 Clips, Drywall and OSB
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Heating/Cooling Supply Sound Proofing
* 04.21.11 - 3D Wireframe Composite of Seats and Columns within Theater Shell
* 05.29.11 - Dead Vent Framed and Plumbing for Bar Sink Moved out of Theater
* 06.01.11 - Started Framing Soffits
* 06.04.11 - 3D Illustration of Clips and Channel Construction
* 06.06.11 - Started Framing Interior Theater Walls
* 06.08.11 - Raising the Sunken Concrete Floor Up
* 06.12.11 - Theater Room Wiring Diagram
* 06.12.11 - Suspended Sound Proofed Vent Muffler Diagram
* 06.15.11 - Started Construction of Vent Mufflers
* 06.19.11 - Ran Wiring for Speakers, Bass Shakers, Cat5 and Subs. Puddy Pads
* 06.23.11 - Can Light Backer Box Construction
* 06.23.11 - Initial Lighting Diagram
* 06.25.11 - Vent Muffler Installed using IB-3 Clips
* 06.26.11 - Corner Clamps, Acoustic Sealant, Network Thermostat Wired, R19 in Ceiling Started
* 06.29.11 - Speaker and Column Placement Diagram and Discussions
* 06.29.11 - Pipe Wrap on Vent Boots, IB-3 Clips on 2nd Vent Muffler, Instulating Vent Muffler
* 07.01.11 - 2nd Vent Muffler Installed into Soffit
* 07.01.11 - TIP: Whisper Clip Inside Corner Placement Diagram
* 07.03.11 - Hung Whisper Clips and Started Installed Hat Channel
* 07.05.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 1 and all Hat Channels Installed
* 07.07.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 2 - From the Inside of the Cold Air Return
* 07.11.11 - Tips and Tricks to hanging Whisper Clips and Hat Channels
* 07.13.11 - HVAC Items Completed: Dead Vent Inline Fan Installed and enclosed, Air Tubes installed for Vent Dampers and Arzel Zones
* 07.18.11 - Theater Insulation Nearly Complete, All Holes Caulkded and Puddy Pads on Light Gang Boxes
* 07.18.11 - Theater Foyer Sheet Rocked
* 07.31.11 - 5/8" OSB and Plywood installed on Ceiling
* 08.04.11 - 5/8" OSB Installed on Walls (First Layer)
* 08.06.11 - 5/8" Drywall and Green Glue Installed on Walls and Ceiling (Second Layer)
* 08.09.11 - Taping and Mudding Drywall Begins
* 08.10.11 - Gray Primer Applied to Drywall
* 08.12.11 - Our Newborn Arrives
* 08.13.11 - Cement Floor Cut up to Recess Electrical and Data Outlets for Back Row Seating
* 08.21.11 - Elk Security Panel Cleaned Up
* 08.22.11 - MainLobby User Interface for the Elk Security System
* 09.09.11 - Photos of Basement
* 09.21.11 - Patch Panel Cabinet Framed In and Bar Area Cabinets Installed
* 09.26.11 - 2x4x12's Added to Soffit and Stairway Platform Construction Begins
* 09.28.11 - First Row Riser Construction Started
* 09.28.11 - Granite Bar Top Installed
* 09.28.11 - DBox Alumninum Frame Assembled
* 10.04.11 - First Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.05.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.06.11 - Profile Illustration of Bar Construction Outside Theater
* 10.11.11 - Riser Step Framing Started
* 10.15.11 - Front Stage Framing Started
* 10.19.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Added to Front Stage and Steps
* 10.20.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Wireframe Render
* 10.22.11 - Filled Stage with Sand
* 10.24.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 10.24.11 - Insulated Areas of Front Stage and Side Steps
* 10.25.11 - Cutting OC703 and Corner Bass Traps Installed
* 10.26.11 - Projected Video onto Wall for estimating Appropriate Screen
* 10.26.11 - Nailed Two Layers of Recycled Denim to Screen Wall
* 10.27.11 - 3D Renders of Red Vs Black Soffit Underside
* 11.02.11 - Cut 16 Holes for 4" LED Can Lights
* 11.04.11 - First Coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue rolled onto Star Ceiling Area
* 11.11.11 - Can Light Housing Installed in Open Soffit
* 11.12.11 - Patch Panel Terminated
* 11.13.11 - Started 3/4" MDF Speaker Column
* 11.18.11 - Column Construnction Plans with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Moulding Installed on Bar Cabinets
* 11.18.11 - Bar Plan with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Rec Room Photos
* 11.21.11 - More Column Construction and Moulding
* 11.22.11 - Detailed Diagram of Mouldings and their Profiles used in the Theater
* 11.23.11 - Building a Removable Magnet Speaker Frame with Black GOM Fabric
* 12.12.11 - Spray Painting 4" LED Can Lights Black
* 12.14.11 - Installed 4" LED Can Lights
* 12.17.11 - Completed Removable Speaker Grill Frames
* 12.18.11 - Attaching Columns to the Wall
* 12.19.11 - Installing Gang Boxes for Data and Electric into Columns
* 12.26.11 - Started working on Oak Steps and Bull Nose
* 12.27.11 - Quick Tips on Cutting Curves with the Jig Saw
* 12.27.11 - Carpet VS Hard Wood on Stage Renders and Discussion
* 12.31.11 - Creating the Large Curved Bull Nose in front of the Front Row
* 01.03.12 - Started Cutting the Oak for the top of the Front Stage
* 01.08.12 - Adding 1/2" Base Shoe under Oak Steps and Bull Nose to create Rounded Underside Edge, Assembling the Front Stage Step
* 01.13.12 - Assembling the Top Front Oak Stage
* 01.16.12 - Using a Biscuit Joiner to Assemble the Front Oak Stage
* 01.21.12 - Started Attaching Lower Third 3/4" MDF Panels to Wall using Green Glue and Screws
* 01.22.12 - Finished Mounting all Columns
* 01.26.12 - Photo Comparison of Protostar, Sy Fabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet and Fidelio Velvet
* 01.29.12 - Routered Bull Nose with a 1/2" Round Over Bit on Front and 1/8" Round Over Bit on Back Side
* 02.01.12 - Started Building 45 Degree Front Corner Cabinet Frames
* 02.09.12 - Started Building Front Arched Cabinet Frame
* 02.15.12 - Notching the Divider Facers for the Front Cabinet Frame
* 02.18.12 - Front Center Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.20.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 02.22.12 - Front Corner Cabinet Doors Installed
* 02.23.12 - TIP: Assembling Bowed Boards during Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.27.12 - Added Base Cap Moulding to Cabinet Doors
* 03.04.12 - Magnetic Latches
* 03.11.12 - Creating a Sharped Seam Fabric Soffit
* 03.18.12 - Installed a Recessed Temperature Sensor
* 03.19.12 - Finished Sanding Bare MDF Column Edges down to 220 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/post/1470#post_21797382"
* 03.21.12 - Built Corner Pine Cap
* 03.22.12 - Applied MH Ready Patch to all joints and Screw Holes on Columns 
* 03.25.12 - Finished GG all lower wall MDF, Notched Bullnose for Baseboard, Final Installation of Bullnose Behind Front Row 
* 03.28.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Construction of Bullnose and Stair Tread using Base Shoe 
* 03.31.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Tall Column Construction
* 04.02.12 - Started Installing Crown Moulding around Perimeter of Room
* 04.03.12 - Coped an Inside Corner Crown Moulding
* 04.04.12 - Started Installing Chair Rail
* 04.05.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 04.07.12 - Started Column Trim Moulding, TIPS
* 04.09.12 - Started Installing Base Board
* 04.11.12 - Started Installing Panel Moulding
* 04.17.12 - Started Construction Fabric Panels
* 04.20.12 - Tips on Cutting GOM Fabric [Rotary Cutting Tool, Straigt Edge Clamp]
* 04.23.12 - Building a Fabric Frame around Receptacle Switches and Vents, Started Double Jamb Door Construction
* 04.27.12 - Installing Door Hinges and Door Lock
* 04.30.12 - Hanging Door and Double Jambs
* 05.04.12 - Built Patch Panel Door within a Fabric Frame
* 05.06.12 - Building Fabric Frames Surrounding Door Casing
* 05.07.12 - 3D Concepts of Potential Back Bar
* 05.08.12 - Assembling Moulding Frames for Columns using Framing Jig
* 05.14.12 - Started working on D-Box Platform top Using Two Layers of 3/4" Birch Plywood
* 05.17.12 - Built Recessed Access Panels for D-Box Actuators
* 05.22.12 - Started Installing GOM Fabric Under Soffit Light Tray
* 05.31.12 - Final Light Tray Moulding Diagram, Started Installing Soffit Mouldings
* 06.06.12 - Room Cleanup and then Started Priming the Room
* 06.07.12 - First Coat of Black Benjamin Moore Paint
* 06.17.12 - Installing Shelving Brackets for Speakers, Working on Theater Foyer Moulding, Stapled GOM Fabric to Cabinet Door
* 06.20.12 - Nearly Finished Painting
* 08.13.12 - Construction Completed
* 08.28.12 - LED TV Movie Poster Now Displays Start / End Time of Movie using MainLobby
* Working on Room Acoustics, Picture, Automation User Interface
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction (External Thread)
* 01.13.14 - Aura Pro Bass Shaker install in Berkline Chair
 
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#1,527 ·
Great job on the crown, like the rest of your theater the craftsmanship is top notch.
 
#1,528 ·
i wouldnt worry about shrinkage if you cut them all long and really jammed/popped them in.....always cut crown and base long by about 1/16th.



coping helps because you can really get those longer pieces jammed in tight and they will NEVER open....sometimes its tough with the inside miters because the piece you are jamming will slide along the other 45 and the joint wont be perfect.


If you cut the lengths exact and didnt have to rely on the nails to bring the crown into the wall, then you may or may not get shrinkage.....if the wood is very dry right now, you are probably ok, if it is not, then it you may see some.


but yeah, caulk with a paintable silicone if you are painting it (Big Stretch is a trade brand sold at real hardware stores that is very good).


if you are staining, then you need to learn coping...to practice, quickly prime white one end of your crown. now cut an inside 45 angle on it (so you see white crown, then the new raw inside 45 cut when looking at the face of the molding)...now just cope away everthing that looks like wood and is not primed....and when you cut it, back cut it at an angle (sometimes you only have a paper thin sliver of face wood at some points depending on the profile). use a metal file to grind down any areas that need it. priming it white helps you see what needs to be cut away (raw wood) for coping....easier to visualize the line. its very easy.
 
#1,529 ·
I'm not very good at coping especially when it is a hardwood like Maple (OMG I wanted to punch myself in the face when I tried)


So instead of using the little saw the entire time I used a dremel with a sanding wheel and it came out perfect.
 
#1,530 ·
Oh yeah Mario


1) I hate your thread


2) MDF moulding is usually a bit cheaper if you plan on painting

3) I'm still framing, almost done with the bathroom...I can't wait till I get to crown
 
#1,531 ·
Nice job, Mario. Looks like you are almost ready for another real world/rendered world overlay (hint, hint).
 
#1,533 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp /forum/post/21858147


The crown molding looks great! That must have been a TON of work over a single weekend.




As I understand it, inside corners tend to open up over time because of wood shrinkage. If you had good wood-to-wood contact on the miters, and you used enough glue, and the joints stayed tight while the glue dried, you ought to be fine.


If you have any more to do, you might think about using PL construction adhesive on the inside miter joints (instead of regular wood glue). The PL can bridge a small gap and still yield a strong joint, which would be very helpful with crown moulding.


Thanks. I'm pretty much wrapped up now. But I should have used the PL I had left over...a bit late though. I just wasn't sure if I could rub it on across the surface like the wood glue. Is ok to finger the PL on? I could still use it for the chair rail.
 
#1,534 ·
Well - I finally finished the crown for the theater. I precut some that I'll need to hang near the front screen and then I'll have to tackle the foyer later.


I was going to have a friend come over and do the final cope but he was leaving on a trip for two weeks. So I thought I'd give it a whirl. I had a few bad 8' boards of crown so I knew I had to get it pretty much right on the first time. Turns out the last corner I had was the worst. It was 3 degree's off, the wall was bowing, the ceiling was pitching, yadda yadda yadda.


I ended up using a jig saw to cut away the bulk of the back side. Then a dremel with a sanding bit. And about an hour and half later I ended up with this.




I squeezed it in as best I could but was fearful I would break off an edge. Man that was nerve wrecking.



Not nearly as clean as all the miter's I did and of course my worst corner is right as you walk in.
Oh well. I think the caulk and black paint will hide everything.


Some final shots. Time for a clean up of the room before moving on to the chair rail.





 
#1,535 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/21861563


I'm not very good at coping especially when it is a hardwood like Maple (OMG I wanted to punch myself in the face when I tried)


So instead of using the little saw the entire time I used a dremel with a sanding wheel and it came out perfect.

We think alike Larry. That's pretty much how I did it after I gave up on the coping saw.
 
#1,538 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21866368


I didn't get around to cleaning last night. I was too anxious to get going on the chair rail.

More gorgeousness... Gotta love the single miter simplicity now after all that crown, eh? : )
 
#1,539 ·
Yeah. It was kind of funny when I first started getting going on the chair rail. I was so used to doing the crown, I had to change my mindset a bit.


What's the recommended method for cutting chair rail and base? Cut along the saw fence vertically or flat (parallel to the ground)?


I had been cutting it parallel to the ground but just thought about it now and I could have stood the chair rail up and cut along the fence. Might make it easier to just push the saw down rather than at a 45 degree angle.


For others, I found that if I needed to cut the backside of the chair rail and because the profile didn't allow me to set it flat, that I could just put another chair rail underneath it facing each other and that kept the moulding parallel to the ground.


These are probably ridiculous questions for you seasoned carpenters out there...so don't laugh.
 
#1,540 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21867199


Yeah. It was kind of funny when I first started getting going on the chair rail. I was so used to doing the crown, I had to change my mindset a bit.


What's the recommended method for cutting chair rail and base? Cut along the saw fence vertically or flat (parallel to the ground)?

I'm not a pro, but I've done it both ways. Since I think (no real data) my compound miter saw is more accurate on the miter than the bevel (mostly due to the adjustment mechanisms), I'll tend to cut what I can on the vertical. Since any chip-out will happen on the back of the rail, this has always worked great for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21867199


For others, I found that if I needed to cut the backside of the chair rail and because the profile didn't allow me to set it flat, that I could just put another chair rail underneath it facing each other and that kept the moulding parallel to the ground.

Perfect way to do it!!
 
#1,541 ·
Everything is looking fantastic. Love the clean lines your theater has - very clean without being overdone.
 
#1,543 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21862172


Thanks. I'm pretty much wrapped up now. But I should have used the PL I had left over...a bit late though. I just wasn't sure if I could rub it on across the surface like the wood glue. Is ok to finger the PL on? I could still use it for the chair rail.

Yeah, there's no reason you can't rub it around with your finger. You will want to keep a rag and some denatured alcohol handy to clean your hands, though. Soap and water won't take it off.
 
#1,544 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cowger /forum/post/21867215


Since I think (no real data) my compound miter saw is more accurate on the miter than the bevel (mostly due to the adjustment mechanisms), I'll tend to cut what I can on the vertical.

I completely agree. I try not to move my miter saw's bevel from 90 degrees because I know I'll spend 30 minutes getting it back to a true 90, no matter what the manufacturer says about the bevel stops. The miter mechanism is a LOT more accurate, robust and repeatable.
 
#1,545 ·
Yeah I prefer using the miter on saw. We've got a tall fence on the Dewalt so might as well use it
 
#1,548 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by longtimelurker /forum/post/0


are you going to turn and run the chair rail up at that level change (i think you need to). looks wrong as is.

I plan to return it into the wall. The two chair rails won't meet up though. I have to put in the fabric frame before I can mount that piece since it runs into the fabric.


If you look at my first post in this thread you can see what it will look like in the 3D render.
 
#1,549 ·
I ended up cutting the pieces standing up vertically against the fence and that was alot better than my original method.


One tip I found was in a couple cases on inside corners I cut the pieces just a 1/16" short or so. I just used a shim behind the chair rail to butt the seam tighter rather than discarding or using that piece elsewhere.


After seeing some of the moulding's in place, I couldn't resist to break out the speaker column grills I had made a while back. It was exciting to see how much it made everything just seem more polished.


I've installed about all the chair rail I can for the moment. Once the door and jamb are installed and the fabric frames, I can finish the rest.



















 
#1,550 ·
The room looks beautiful, Mario!
 
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