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Spaceman Theater build

286K views 1K replies 140 participants last post by  rmerlano 
#1 · (Edited)
EDIT: added build summary and thread index to 1st post

Before & After:

Existing Floor Plan



Proposed Floor Plan (orientation rotated clockwise 90 degrees from existing floor plan). Click on image to open larger version.

Changes to the design since printing this plan image include:
1. Moving the left and right front speakers behind the screen and extending the false wall until it hit both corner bass traps.
2. This allowed me to go from a 100" 16:9 to a 115" 2.35:1 screen.
3. Shifted the 4 HVAC supplies so each one sits directly in front of one of the columns.
4. Relocated HVAC return from side wall to back right corner of room.
5. Added a 2nd can light to the equipment closet and 2 can lights to the media closet.



Proposed Ceiling Plan



Screen Wall-Before


Screen Wall-After




Back Wall-Before (was originally going to be the screen wall)


Back Wall-After


Left Wall-Before


Left Wall-After



Right Wall-Before


Right Wall-After



Ceiling-during construction



Ceiling with painted star mural by Night Sky Murals





Room Summary
2nd floor build to replace builder-grade media room. Scope of work included:
-removal of existing wetbar, carpet, & drywall
-removal of all existing electrical wiring, including outlets, switches and fixtures
-temporary removal of insulation in ceiling & exterior walls
-adding a new dedicated 20A circuit
-upgrading existing 15A circuit to 20A and rewiring entire room (new outlets, switches, dimmers and fixtures)
-installing conduit to equipment closet, projector, speakers, riser and stage
-adding new wall to create screen wall/media closet
-adding perimeter soffit
-changing vaulted ceiling to coffered ceiling
-relocating entry door
-creating arched opening to new media closet
-adding 3 additional hvac supplies and 1 return
-adding insulation to interior walls and reinstalling insulation in ceiling and exterior walls
-new drywall
-adding stage, riser and false wall
-adding acoustic treatments to front, side and rear walls
-building 4 decorative columns. 1 hides equipment rack, 2 hide side surrounds and 1 contains lighting controls
-installing 7.1 speaker system
-hiding acoustic treatments/speakers behind custom-made fabric panels
-installation of baseboards, wall trim & light trays
-painting soffit and ceiling
-painted star mural
-installing new carpet
-installing new door & threshold
-installing screen, projector, & related av equipment

Dimensions (original room)
Width: 12’-7”
Length: 19’-2”
Height: 7’-9” at walls, vaulted to 10' in center of room

Finished dimensions (after installing treatments/panels)
Width: 12’-4”
Length (back wall to front wall): 18’-7”
Length (back wall to screen): 17’-10”
Height: 7’-9” at perimeter soffit, 9’ at bottom of coffers, 10’ to top of coffers

Color Scheme
Dark brown wall fabric: Guilford of Maine FR701-Chocolate
Light brown wall fabric: Acoustex Designer Series-#60 Cocoa
Black fabric on screen wall: SyFabrics Plush Triple Velvet-Black
Trim & Door: Behr Premium Plus Interior Eggshell-Mouse Ears Black
Ceiling: Behr Premium Plus Interior Flat Enamel-equivalent to SW Jute Brown
Light tray: Behr Premium Plus Interior Flat Enamel-Bitter Chocolate
Soffit: Behr Premium Plus Interior Flat Enamel-Mouse Ears Black
Carpet: Main floor/riser: Masland, Style:Quadrate I, Color:Times Square Stage: Masland, Style: Signet, Color: Black

AV Equipment Summary
Projector: JVC RS45
Projector Mount: Chief 5" Designer Ceiling Plate #CMA-101, 3" Fixed extension column #CMS-003, RPA281 mount and SLB281 bracket
Screen: 115”wide 2.35:1 SeymourAV frame w/CenterStage XD screen fabric
LCR Speakers: (3) Atlantic Technology 727 In-wall
Side surround speakers: (2) Triad In-wall Bronze
Rear surround speakers: (2) Triad In-wall Bronze
Subwoofer: (1) Hsu Research VTF-2 MK3
Receiver: Denon 4311CI
Blu-Ray player: Panasonic DMP-BD655
CD-Changer: Technics SL-PD888
Power Console: Belkin PureAV AP21100-12 (PF31)
Remote: URC R40

Lighting Summary
Side & Rear Soffits: 4" recessed housing with 4" black baffle trim
Front Soffit: 4" recessed housing with 4" black eyeball trim
Light Trays in Coffered Ceiling: 24" Black light #7020BL
Speaker uplights behind AT screen: Kvart wall/clamp spotlight
Step Lights: Royal Pacific 8905WH Mini Indoor Incandescent Step Light

Lighting Control:
1. Master Keypad: Insteon 8-Button KeypadLinc Dimmer, wired directly to the side can lights and remotely controlling items 2-6.
2. Insteon ToggleLinc Relay Switch wired directly to step lights
3. Insteon ToggleLinc Relay Switch wired directly to black lights in light trays
4. Insteon SwitchLinc Dimmer wired directly to front can lights
5. Insteon SwitchLinc Dimmer wired directly to rear can lights
6. Speaker uplights behind screen plugged into Insteon OutletLinc Dimmer
7. Insteon IR Linc to operate all zones via universal remote

Soundproofing: None (besides adding insulation to 2 interior walls)

Acoustic Treatment Summary
Front wall: (2) 17”x17”x24” corner bass traps cut from 2" Knauf unfaced insulation board (3 pcf), 1 layer of 3.5 mil poly sheeting sandwiched between (2) 1” layers of JM Linacoustic (floor to ceiling between bass traps)

Side walls: 1” JM Linacoustic inside fabric panels, floor to ceiling from screen to 1st row, floor to ear-height from first row to back wall

Back wall: (2) 2” layers of 3pcf insulation board. First layer against wall consists of Knauf unfaced insulation boards. 2nd layer facing room consists of Certainteed CertaPro boards with FSK facing. Prior to placing fabric panels over back wall, the FSK facing was covered with black fabric to prevent the FSK from reflecting through the fabric panels. 1 of the back corners includes (1) 17”x17”x24” corner bass trap cut from 2" Knauf unfaced insulation board (3 pcf). The corner without a bass trap contains an HVAC chase for a return duct that passes through the theater.

Riser as bass trap: 2x12 perimeter frame with 2x8 joists, fully insulated with 2 layers of R19 insulation and (7) 4x10 vents along back wall

Cost Breakdown:
Project was all DIY, with the exception of adding a dedicated breaker, adding 3 additional HVAC supplies and 1 return, hanging and finishing drywall and installing carpet.

Room Improvements: $13,370.34
AV Equipment: $9,667.05
Seating: $3,124.93
Tools & Supplies: $1,267.81
Project Total: $27,430.13 (as of 1/1/13)

For a complete line item breakdown, refer to the attachments below.

Excel Spreadsheet:

Home Theater Expenses.xls 91k .xls file

PDF Version:

Home Theater Expenses.pdf 22k .pdf file

Build Timeline & Index:
Phase 1: Research & Design - 2 Years
12/3/09 - 12/1/11

Phase 2: Demolition/HVAC modifications - 2 months of actual work spread over 2 years
1/2/10 – 2/7/10 – [post="17835304"]begin demo[/post] (wetbar, walls)
2/18/10 - [post="18162229"]hvac modifications[/post]
2/19/10 – 12/1/11 – project on hold
12/1/11 – 12/31/11 – [post="18089096"]complete demo[/post] (ceiling, electrical, doors)

Phase 3: Construction - 1 Year +/-
1/1/12 - 2/10/12 - framing: [post="21579439"]walls & coffered ceiling[/post], [post="21611228"]soffits & ceiling,[/post] [post="21628329"]curved soffit at screen[/post]
1/28/12 – [post="21564257"]revised floor plan and preliminary elevations[/post]
2/10/12 – 2/29/12 – [post="21678155"]electrical[/post], including low voltage [post="21674706"]conduit[/post]
3/1/12 – 3/30/12 – [post="21847790"]insulation[/post]
4/1/12 – 4/12/12 – [post="21877668"]drywall[/post]
4/11/12 – [post="21895163"]revised plan to include 2.35:1 screen[/post]
4/16/12 – 4/26/12 – [post="21954356"]riser[/post]
4/27/12 – 5/1/12 – [post="21973325"]stage[/post]
5/11/12 – 5/21/12 – corner bass traps - [post="22011813"]1[/post], [post="22048058"]2[/post]
5/24/12 – [post="22060424"]front wall acoustic treatments[/post]
5/27/12 – [post="22070688"]front wall speaker boxes[/post]
5/29/12 – 6/21/12 – [post="22108969"]revise fabric panel design, fabric & carpet research (round 1)[/post]
6/24/12 – 7/2/12 – [post="22163782"]rear wall acoustic treatments[/post], [post="22188339"]surround speaker boxes[/post]
7/3/12 – 7/13/12 – [post="22188339"]coffered ceiling trim/light trays[/post], [post="22199473"]more light trays[/post], [post="22201568"]more light trays[/post], [post="22216286"]completed light trays[/post]
7/16/12 – [post="22225364"]columns[/post]
7/17/12 – 7/30/12 – [post="22264365"]furring strips for fabric panels[/post]
7/30/12 – 8/15/12 – [post="22289458"]fabric & carpet research (round 2)[/post]
8/17/12 – 9/10/12 – [post="22324651"]begin fabric frames[/post]
9/5/12 – [post="22373246"]final selection of fabric & carpet[/post]
9/9/12 – 9/12/12 – [post="22390961"]false wall[/post]
9/12/12 – 10/2/12 – [post="22422766"]more fabric frames[/post]
10/3/12 – [post="22457586"]fabric panel color schemes[/post]
10/7/12 – 10/18/12 – [post="22475046"]painting of soffit and fabric frames[/post]
10/10/12 – [post="22481750"]lighting control concept[/post]
10/18/12 - [post="22506141"]ceiling paint[/post]
10/19/12 – [post="22509283"]fabric dispenser[/post]
10/23/12 – 11/4/12 – [post="22529886"]adding fabric to frames[/post], [post="22548050"]more fabric[/post], [post="22557375"]more fabric[/post]
10/26/12 –[post="22530870"]bulb selection for soffits[/post]
11/5/12 - 11/11/12 – [post="22559380"]door threshold[/post]/[post="22577362"]hardware[/post] research
11/11/12 - 11/12/12 – [post="22579437"]repaint ceiling[/post], paint door
11/13/12 – 11/15/12 – carpet bids
11/19/12 – paint ceiling & floor registers & return grill
11/30/12 – [post="22647668"]star ceiling[/post]
12/11/12 – [post="22693952"]carpet install[/post]
12/17/12 – [post="22714436"]mount projector & screen[/post]
12/19/12 – [post="22722380"]temporary rack[/post]
12/20/12 - [post="22727959"]seats installed[/post]
12/29/12 - [post="22759114"]LCR speaker uplights[/post]
01/06/13 - [post="22793313"]Insteon switches installed[/post]
01/22/13 - [post="22861298"]mini riser[/post]
01/27/13 - [post="22879576"]screen wall fabric[/post]
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Original 1st Post:





Well...I officially broke ground on my theater last weekend, if laying plywood in the attic counts. I also ripped down some drywall to see what was lurking behind a wall I want to remove. Before I get too much further with demo, I'd like to get the rest of my plan on paper. In order to do that, I need some constructive criticism. I'm attaching a plan of the existing room as well as a plan showing some options I have in mind. Because my room is not very deep, I am having to place the 2nd row fairly close to the back wall, so I have some concerns with acoustics. I'm also not sure where to locate the rear speakers since the 2nd row is so far back. I'm also fairly close to the screen in one option and I'd like to hear from those of you who are sitting at 9' or less to hear how large your screens are. I have a few questions/comments included on the attachments, so any feedback would be appreciated.

I'm looking forward to many more posts as I plan to document my build as it moves along. Hopefully some more demo this weekend.
 

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18
#102 ·
Finally finished with the pink (and yellow) fluffy stuff. Getting drywall estimates today.


Apparently my auto-focus was turned off for these pics. My apologies.


Screen wall



Rear wall



Left wall with openings for equipment (left) and access door (right). Access door will be hidden behind removable panels.



Right wall with entry



Entry to media closet



Ceiling (facing rear wall)





Soffit at screen



Perimeter soffit



I've also starting tracking down my acoustic insulation. After contacting 15 different local suppliers plus numerous internet searches, I came up with the following:


Linacoustic or the equivalent has been all over the map, ranging from $877 on the high end to $146 on the low end.

-Linacoustic (100')-2.19/sf from a local supplier ($877)

-JM Insulshield-Black (100')-1.17/sf from a local supplier

-Linacoustic (25')-.96/sf before shipping from an online supplier

-Linacoustic (50')-.83/sf before shipping from an online supplier

-Linacoustic (100')-.55/sf from a local supplier

-Knauf Sonic XP (100')-.43/sf from a local supplier

-Certainteed CertaPro Acostablanket Black (100')-.43/sf from a local supplier

-Linacoustic (100')-.35/sf from a local supplier ($146....a $731 savings over the high quote).


Quotes for other acoustic material:

1" x 2' x 4' rigid fiberglass panel (unfaced)-$1.29-1.70/sf

2" x 2' x 4' rigid fiberglass panel (unfaced)-$1.70-2.19/sf

2" x 2' x 4' rigid fiberglass panel (faced)-$2.41-3.10/sf

4" x 2' x 4' rigid fiberglass panel (unfaced)-$3.42-4.61/sf


I'll share my drywall quotes as soon as they come in.
 
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#103 ·
I received the first drywall quote yesterday. The scope of work is split between the theater (80%) and an area in our kitchen that had a water leak (20%). It will take approximately 50 sheets for the whole job. The scope includes everything getting tape, mud and texture. The 20% outside the theater also gets painted while I will paint the theater. Quote is $5,500 (comes out to $110/sheet). I've asked him to requote it with no painting and also removing the texture on the theater walls since they will be covered by fabric. I don't expect that to be a major savings, but we'll see. I expected something in the $30-40/sheet range, not $110/sheet, so I don't think this guy will be getting my business.


I had a 2nd guy look at it as well and should have his quote tomorrow. I plan on getting a 3rd quote as well. Had hoped to get drywall done next week, but not for that amount of money. Shouldn't I be able to get 50 sheets (1600sf) up & textured for less than $2000? If the quotes are much higher than that, I might hang everything myself and pay someone to tape, mud & texture.
 
#104 ·
This morning, I picked up what I thought was a roll of JM Linacoustic RC. It turns out to be JM Duct Liner PM. After reviewing the data sheets for both products, they appear very similar, with both having one side treated with a "durable glass mat facing", while the Linacoustic also has the Permacote acrylic coating over the glass mat facing. Absorption coefficients are very similar, with the biggest difference being at 125hz, where the PM is at .18 the RC is at .08.


Questions:

1. The surface coating on the PM is still black like the Linacoustic so I would still benefit from that. Is there a reason I would want/need the acrylic coating that is on the Linacoustic but not on the PM product?


2. The PM product really stinks, literally. Probably a combo of the binder and formaldehyde. Does the Linacoustic have a strong odor as well? If so, is there a way to air it out before hanging it on the walls (unrolling it in the driveway for an afternoon)?
 
#105 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman /forum/post/0


Does the Linacoustic have a strong odor as well? If so, is there a way to air it out before hanging it on the walls (unrolling it in the driveway for an afternoon)?

I have an unopened/partially opened roll of Linacoustic and haven't noticed a smell but I haven't unrolled it yet...


If I laid it out in the driveway then the squirrels would have it all in the trees in 2 hours!
 
#106 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman /forum/post/21854217


I received one of the drywall quotes yesterday. The scope of work is split between the theater (80%) and an area in our kitchen that had a water leak (20%). It will take approximately 50 sheets for the whole job. The scope includes everything getting tape, mud and texture. The 20% outside the theater also gets painted while I will paint the theater. Quote is $5,500 (comes out to $110/sheet). I've asked him to requote it with no painting and also removing the texture on the theater walls since they will be covered by fabric. I don't expect that to be a major savings, but we'll see. I expected something in the $30-40/sheet range, not $110/sheet, so I don't think this guy will be getting my business.


I had a 2nd guy look at it as well and should have his quote tomorrow. I plan on getting a 3rd quote as well. Had hoped to get drywall done next week, but not for that amount of money. Shouldn't I be able to get 50 sheets (1600sf) up & textured for less than $2000? If the quotes are much higher than that, I might hang everything myself and pay someone to tape, mud & texture.

sounds rather high on those quotes. $2000 should cover 1600sqft.
 
#107 ·
2nd quote just came in at $2600, which translates to $52/sheet or $1.62/sf. Still seems a bit high. I'm getting a 3rd quote and will make a determination based on where those numbers come in.


Still hoping Duct Liner PM is an acceptable substitution for Linacoustic. Don't feel like fighting the suppliers no return policy on cash purchases. Of course, he was supposed to give me Linacoustic RC, so I guess I would have a valid reason for a return if necessary.
 
#108 ·
Opted to go with our 3rd drywall estimate ($2100). They start tomorrow and will hang, tape, mud & texture. He thinks it will take 40-45 sheets, which puts him at $46-52/sheet, or $1.45-1.64/sf. Pretty much in line with my 2nd estimate, except the total sheet count is a little less.


I'll be glad to get drywall out of the way. I'm in a holding pattern and have lost about a week getting estimates. Next up...stage and riser construction.
 
#109 ·
In addition to using 30 lb roofing felt between the 2 layers of stage/riser decking, should I also place a layer under the stage and riser (over the wood subfloor)? I'm assuming if the goal is to reduce wood to wood squeaks, this would be the way to go.
 
#110 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman /forum/post/0


In addition to using 30 lb roofing felt between the 2 layers of stage/riser decking, should I also place a layer under the stage and riser (over the wood subfloor)? I'm assuming if the goal is to reduce wood to wood squeaks, this would be the way to go.

I used 30lb roofing felt under my stage because it was in contact with the cement basement floor. If squeak reduction is your goal then I'd imagine that you'd want something different. I wonder if a bunch of liquid nails would do the job?
 
#111 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdanforth /forum/post/21876292


I used 30lb roofing felt under my stage because it was in contact with the cement basement floor. If squeak reduction is your goal then I'd imagine that you'd want something different. I wonder if a bunch of liquid nails would do the job?

That would probably prevent squeaks, but I don't like the idea of having the riser permanently attached to the subfloor. Maybe I don't need to do anything. I just figured since many folks use the roofing felt between the 2 or 3 layers of riser decking (I always assumed to prevent/reduce squeaks), I could also use it between the stage and subfloor for the same reason. Overkill?
 
#112 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman /forum/post/0



That would probably prevent squeaks, but I don't like the idea of having the riser permanently attached to the subfloor. Maybe I don't need to do anything. I just figured since many folks use the roofing felt between the 2 or 3 layers of riser decking (I always assumed to prevent/reduce squeaks), I could also use it between the stage and subfloor for the same reason. Overkill?

Check Jelloslug's Upstairs Theater thread. I think he had a stage on his second floor. He built a beautiful room that has been a reference for me.
 
#115 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by realred2 /forum/post/21876911


I know it's a little late now, but I bet that Carpet padding you were asking about finding a use for would have made a great "Squeak break" between the floor and the bottom edge of the riser....

Luckily for me, my garage looks like something straight from a Hoarders episode and my carpet pad is tucked safely in a corner (with 2 years worth of dust).

Quote:
Originally Posted by realred2 /forum/post/21876911


Your room is looking good, I wish I had some ceiling height to work with.

Thanks, it's coming together. I'm a little nervous about drywall (pics to follow).
 
#116 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd /forum/post/21877485


15 pound roofing felt was what my hardwood flooring supplier recommended to prevent wood to wood squeaks when I laid my hardwood strip flooring. I doubt it's overkill, but it is really inexpensive. No squeaks.

Yeah, 30lb. is only $15 a roll. I could probably swing that.
 
#117 ·
So I'm having a small case of buyer remorse with my drywall guys. For once, I'm not really sweating the cost. Rather, it's my fear that the end product is going to look like crap.


I had 2 workers start at 8:30 today. When they left for lunch, I checked out their progress and was really surprised they weren't further along. They hung the bottom of the 8' soffit and just started the 9' soffit. After leaving for the day at 5pm, this is where we are at.


Facing screen wall



Facing back wall



Facing back wall



I'm not paying by the hour, so I'm not too concerned with the time, just more surprised. I would have expected 2 experienced guys to knock out more than this, even with all of the cutting around can lights, vents and conduit.


What has me worried is some of the workmanship. Almost every joint along the bottom of the soffit occurs between and not on a framing member. The drywall is secured along the edge of the soffit but not across the soffit at the joint. Even after taping, won't these joints eventually crack if they occur between framing members?
























The trimming around some of the outlets and can lights looked pretty $hitty as well.













I realize mud, tape and corner bead can hide a lot, but I'm not too impressed with the quality here. Are my concerns justified where the seams aren't nailed/screwed to anything? The wall pieces will help support some of these ceiling joints, but it still bothers me. Is this pretty standard quality or do I need to have a talk with them when they return in the morning?
 
#118 ·
I'm certainly no drywall expert, but I was taught that joints always fell on a framing member. Maybe there's some trick to having a major joint not on a framing piece, but I can't think of what that would be. Also, maybe it's a location thing, but I haven't seen drywall nailed in a long time. Only screwed around here AFAIK. Almost looks like a combination of the two...


That being said, they are doing this for a living (I assume), so they should know what they are doing. Absolutely no harm in asking them questions though. And I would definitely hang on the that final payment until you are satisfied with the work.
 
#119 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR /forum/post/21877984


Also, maybe it's a location thing, but I haven't seen drywall nailed in a long time. Only screwed around here AFAIK. ... And I would definitely hang on the that final payment until you are satisfied with the work.

Wow, I didn't even notice that those were nails until you mentioned it. I was wondering how the big indentations were caused around the fasteners... now I know.


I'm not a drywall expert either but I'm willing to give them the benefit of the doubt on a lot of things. Maybe these two people are outstanding mud/tapers and you'll never know what's underneath?


The box cutouts seem WAY too big and crooked though. I'd be worried about finding trim rings and plates to cover those.


I'm wondering about the seam being in free air. I did some of my soffit drywall joints like that and now I'm a little worried!
 
#120 ·
I'll ask them about the joints. They just don't look right to me, but like you said, maybe this is how they do them all the time.


They are using a combination of nails and screws, but certainly not in a predetermined fashion. It's very random. I've read that the ceiling should be screwed and it's common for walls to get a perimeter of nails and a field of screws. In my case, most of the ceiling is all nails with a few screws here and there. Some sheets are all nails. Most of the vertical soffit sheets are perimeter nails and a field of screws, but that's not always the case. I just get nervous when it looks like something I would do instead of what I pictured a professional would do.
 
#121 ·
Joints don't always have to fall on studding, if the span is small. The framing at the drywall edge will adequately support those panels.


My preference would be the scratch coat be Durabond 45 or 90 (the numbers being working time) with fiberglass tape. Durabond dries concrete like and is an excellent product that greatly reduces any chances of cracking.


The electrical and spot light boxes are poorly cut. But pretty typical and when mudded and sanded, you'll never know they existed.


Some of the upper most small ceiling panels appear to have no framing support at their ends. Those panel ends will rest on the edge of the vertical drywall. It also appears that there's little if any nails near the edges of any ceiling panels. With a subwoofer or two, in the room, personally I'd secure the edges to framing as a precautionary measure.
 
#122 ·
I agree - the work is a bit sloppy but there's nothing that cant be corrected. The sloppy work around the outlets and lights will just take more time later. I saw one drywall job where they just used a hammer to punch out a hole for a outlet that they forgot to cut. But these were guys that could put up the drywall for an entire house in a day so they did not have time to take a sheet down - re-measure and recut.
 
#123 ·
I never noticed ur build. Really coming along nice! Really liking the ceiling! I love coffered ceilings.


I think u will end up being ok with the dw in the end. Will be alot for finishing time to make it meet but that's what u r paying them for. I would just speak ur mind to them. U have learned not to hold back with anyone. It's ur house and u have to live with it not them. They go home at the end of the day. I would be real cool about it and just point out maybe one or two of the worse things and go from there. Get a feel for them.
 
#124 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimim /forum/post/21879342


I never noticed ur build. Really coming along nice! Really liking the ceiling! I love coffered ceilings.


I think u will end up being ok with the dw in the end. Will be alot for finishing time to make it meet but that's what u r paying them for. I would just speak ur mind to them. U have learned not to hold back with anyone. It's ur house and u have to live with it not them. They go home at the end of the day. I would be real cool about it and just point out maybe one or two of the worse things and go from there. Get a feel for them.

Thanks. I'm really happy to be at the drywall stage. It's starting to feel like a real room again.


I did point out a few of the joints to the drywall guy this morning. I showed him the one joint that was actually fastened to a stud and expressed my concern over the other ones cracking over time. To me, it seemed like a pretty easy fix just to cut out the unsupported section back to the nearest stud and fill in with a larger piece, but he's opted to to add a stud or support piece at the joint, since the soffit is still accessible from the front. Doesn't really matter to me, as long as it's sturdy. As long as I keep providing the cold beverages, all should be good.
 
#125 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman /forum/post/21879413


Thanks. I'm really happy to be at the drywall stage. It's starting to feel like a real room again.

Amazing how much different it feels a day later, isn't it!

Quote:
I did point out a few of the joints to the drywall guy this morning. I showed him the one joint that was actually fastened to a stud and expressed my concern over the other ones cracking over time. To me, it seemed like a pretty easy fix just to cut out the unsupported section back to the nearest stud and fill in with a larger piece, but he's opted to to add a stud or support piece at the joint, since the soffit is still accessible from the front.

Yep, welcome to Houston construction. Keep pointing out concerns, and they'll address them. As others have mentioned, some of these crews are very diligent about cut-outs, etc. and others just leave it to the tape and mud.

Quote:
Doesn't really matter to me, as long as it's sturdy. As long as I keep providing the cold beverages, all should be good.

There you go! Correct attitude and incentive program! I've also found that providing a radio/boombox (if they didn't bring their own) they can tune also helps... Just be advised it's going to get mud on it.


Jeff
 
#126 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor /forum/post/21879500


There you go! Correct attitude and incentive program! I've also found that providing a radio/boombox (if they didn't bring their own) they can tune also helps... Just be advised it's going to get mud on it.

They brought their own. I can't understand the lyrics, but I like the music.
 
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