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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread

973K views 3K replies 316 participants last post by  mcascio 
#1 · (Edited)

Electronic House 2013 Gold Award Winner
Best Home Theater $25,000 - $75,000
 
 

AVS Home Theater of the Month
 
 
SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 3 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners
* BACK ROW: 4 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K S-5000 THX
* ATMOS TOP FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* ATMOS TOP REAR LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* BACK LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SUB1: M&K MX-350 THX
* SUB2: HSU VTF-15H
* SUB 3 & 4: DIY Flat Pack Builds - Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer  4 Cubic Feet each

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* BEFORE WALLS: 27' Deep x 17'9" Wide (excludes theater foyer entryway)
* FINISHED ROOM AFTER SOUND PROOFING: 25'8" Deep x 16'9.5" Wide
* NOTES: The theater is being constructed in part of our unfinished basement. There is a 23" drop in the basement to allow for stadium seating.
* SHORTEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION: 8'10"
* TALLEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION in Drop Down area: 10'9"
* Front Row: 8'6" from Front of Seat to screen
* Back Row: 14'7" from Front of Seat to screen
* Projector: 16'2" from Lens to Screen
* Screen: 136" Wide 2.35
VIEWING DISTANCE TO BOTTOM OF SCREEN FROM CENTER FRONT ROW
* SEAT INCLINED: 10' 5 1/2"
* SEAT DECLINED: 11' 2"
 

EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon X5200W, OLD: Denon AVR-4520CI (11.2), OLD: Onkyo NX-TR3008 (FOR SALE)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-5 (Center, Front Left & Right, Side Surround Left & Right)
* AMP: Behringer EP4000 (2 Dayton Subs)
* AMP: (2) Dayton APA100 (Atmos Speakers Top Front & Top Rear inside Soffit)
* BLU-RAY PLAYER: Dune HD Max
* GAMING: PS3, (2) XBOX-360
* POWER CONDITIONER: Belkin PF60
* IMAGE PROCESSING: Darbee Darblet DVP5000
* STORAGE: Cinemar MLD-4000 12 TB Mass Storage Server
* PROJECTOR: Panasonic PT-AE8000U
* SCREEN: 136" Wide 2.35 AT Screen (Seymour AV)
* TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer / DVDLobby
* REMOTE CONTROL: Logitech Harmony 700
* LIGHTING CONTROL: Insteon via MainLobby
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Proliphix NT-20E Thermostat via MainLobby
* INTERCOM: Not sure yet - most likely go with Russound
 
CARPETING
* Masland Quadrate Times Square
 
FABRIC
* Red Walls - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#418) Claret Accent Fabric
* Speaker Frames - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#408) Black Fabric
* Top of Front Cabinet Below Screen & Sides of Vertical Front Cabinets Facing Screen - Protostar Self-Adhesive Flocked Light Trap Material
* Bordering Edges that the Seymour AV Screen sit's on - Black Triple Plush Velvet

SOUND PROOFING
The room above the theater is a nursery and office. One of the rooms next to the theater is a furnace room. So it's important to keep the sound out of the rooms above and prevent sound coming in from the furnace room.
Current plan of attack is to use two layers of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue with sound absorption clips. Staggered stud walls will be on any framed walls.
* Minimum 1-3/4" Solid Core Door with automatic door bottom.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Hand painted black light star ceiling painted by Night Sky Murals
 
VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER
* A 40" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Number of Movies watched in theater, Minutes remaining of playing movies, movies coming soon, lbs of popcorn consumed, etc.  The user interface on the LED Movie Poster is powered by MainLobby.
 
BASS SHAKERS
Aura Pro Bass Shakers in Back Row (4 Chairs)

SOUND TREATMENT
Recycled Denim/ Titus EcoShield (1" x 4' x 50') (Bought from Vyron Corporation)

D-BOX MOTION PLATFORM
D-Box Motion Platform in Front Row (3 Chairs)


VIRTUAL (MATTERPORT) WALK-THROUGH OF CINEMAR HOME THEATER
https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ur3p2q8Hk9r



UNFINISHED BASEMENT AREA


FINAL ATMOS SPEAKER PLACEMENT






MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Side View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Side View - RESERVED)

LATEST THEATER DESIGN (3D View)







 
 
FABRICS, CARPET & PAINT INFORMATION

 
 
 
COMPOSITED 3D IMAGE WITH ACTUAL PHOTO [There is an angled divider.  The Left Upper Area is the actual photo, the right lower area is 3D]

 
FINAL ACTUAL PHOTO WITH NIGHT SKY MURAL STAR CEILING:

 
LED TV MOVIE POSTER DISPLAYS CURRENTLY PLAYING MOVIE AND ACTUAL START / END TIMES USING CINEMAR'S MAINLOBBY SOFTWARE

 
iPad Movie Selection using Cinemar Software. Also controls thermostat, lighting, projector, receiver and security.

 
THREAD INDEX
* 12.22.09 - Construction Thread Started
* 04.27.10 - Generac House Generator Installed
* 12.04.10 - Cleaned up 4 Miles of Cable in Media Rack
* 03.19.11 - Construction Lumber and Green Glue arrived, Reworked Sump Pump Area and Added Additional Breakers to Media Rack Closet
* 03.25.11 - 3D Renders of Rec Room Area outside Theater
* 03.27.11 - Framing of Interior Basement Walls Started
* 04.03.11 - Theater Framing Started, Foundation Injection Crack Repair Completed
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Construction using Whisper Clips, DC-04 Clips, Drywall and OSB
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Heating/Cooling Supply Sound Proofing
* 04.21.11 - 3D Wireframe Composite of Seats and Columns within Theater Shell
* 05.29.11 - Dead Vent Framed and Plumbing for Bar Sink Moved out of Theater
* 06.01.11 - Started Framing Soffits
* 06.04.11 - 3D Illustration of Clips and Channel Construction
* 06.06.11 - Started Framing Interior Theater Walls
* 06.08.11 - Raising the Sunken Concrete Floor Up
* 06.12.11 - Theater Room Wiring Diagram
* 06.12.11 - Suspended Sound Proofed Vent Muffler Diagram
* 06.15.11 - Started Construction of Vent Mufflers
* 06.19.11 - Ran Wiring for Speakers, Bass Shakers, Cat5 and Subs. Puddy Pads
* 06.23.11 - Can Light Backer Box Construction
* 06.23.11 - Initial Lighting Diagram
* 06.25.11 - Vent Muffler Installed using IB-3 Clips
* 06.26.11 - Corner Clamps, Acoustic Sealant, Network Thermostat Wired, R19 in Ceiling Started
* 06.29.11 - Speaker and Column Placement Diagram and Discussions
* 06.29.11 - Pipe Wrap on Vent Boots, IB-3 Clips on 2nd Vent Muffler, Instulating Vent Muffler
* 07.01.11 - 2nd Vent Muffler Installed into Soffit
* 07.01.11 - TIP: Whisper Clip Inside Corner Placement Diagram
* 07.03.11 - Hung Whisper Clips and Started Installed Hat Channel
* 07.05.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 1 and all Hat Channels Installed
* 07.07.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 2 - From the Inside of the Cold Air Return
* 07.11.11 - Tips and Tricks to hanging Whisper Clips and Hat Channels
* 07.13.11 - HVAC Items Completed: Dead Vent Inline Fan Installed and enclosed, Air Tubes installed for Vent Dampers and Arzel Zones
* 07.18.11 - Theater Insulation Nearly Complete, All Holes Caulkded and Puddy Pads on Light Gang Boxes
* 07.18.11 - Theater Foyer Sheet Rocked
* 07.31.11 - 5/8" OSB and Plywood installed on Ceiling
* 08.04.11 - 5/8" OSB Installed on Walls (First Layer)
* 08.06.11 - 5/8" Drywall and Green Glue Installed on Walls and Ceiling (Second Layer)
* 08.09.11 - Taping and Mudding Drywall Begins
* 08.10.11 - Gray Primer Applied to Drywall
* 08.12.11 - Our Newborn Arrives
* 08.13.11 - Cement Floor Cut up to Recess Electrical and Data Outlets for Back Row Seating
* 08.21.11 - Elk Security Panel Cleaned Up
* 08.22.11 - MainLobby User Interface for the Elk Security System
* 09.09.11 - Photos of Basement
* 09.21.11 - Patch Panel Cabinet Framed In and Bar Area Cabinets Installed
* 09.26.11 - 2x4x12's Added to Soffit and Stairway Platform Construction Begins
* 09.28.11 - First Row Riser Construction Started
* 09.28.11 - Granite Bar Top Installed
* 09.28.11 - DBox Alumninum Frame Assembled
* 10.04.11 - First Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.05.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.06.11 - Profile Illustration of Bar Construction Outside Theater
* 10.11.11 - Riser Step Framing Started
* 10.15.11 - Front Stage Framing Started
* 10.19.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Added to Front Stage and Steps
* 10.20.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Wireframe Render
* 10.22.11 - Filled Stage with Sand
* 10.24.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 10.24.11 - Insulated Areas of Front Stage and Side Steps
* 10.25.11 - Cutting OC703 and Corner Bass Traps Installed
* 10.26.11 - Projected Video onto Wall for estimating Appropriate Screen
* 10.26.11 - Nailed Two Layers of Recycled Denim to Screen Wall
* 10.27.11 - 3D Renders of Red Vs Black Soffit Underside
* 11.02.11 - Cut 16 Holes for 4" LED Can Lights
* 11.04.11 - First Coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue rolled onto Star Ceiling Area
* 11.11.11 - Can Light Housing Installed in Open Soffit
* 11.12.11 - Patch Panel Terminated
* 11.13.11 - Started 3/4" MDF Speaker Column
* 11.18.11 - Column Construnction Plans with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Moulding Installed on Bar Cabinets
* 11.18.11 - Bar Plan with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Rec Room Photos
* 11.21.11 - More Column Construction and Moulding
* 11.22.11 - Detailed Diagram of Mouldings and their Profiles used in the Theater
* 11.23.11 - Building a Removable Magnet Speaker Frame with Black GOM Fabric
* 12.12.11 - Spray Painting 4" LED Can Lights Black
* 12.14.11 - Installed 4" LED Can Lights
* 12.17.11 - Completed Removable Speaker Grill Frames
* 12.18.11 - Attaching Columns to the Wall
* 12.19.11 - Installing Gang Boxes for Data and Electric into Columns
* 12.26.11 - Started working on Oak Steps and Bull Nose
* 12.27.11 - Quick Tips on Cutting Curves with the Jig Saw
* 12.27.11 - Carpet VS Hard Wood on Stage Renders and Discussion
* 12.31.11 - Creating the Large Curved Bull Nose in front of the Front Row
* 01.03.12 - Started Cutting the Oak for the top of the Front Stage
* 01.08.12 - Adding 1/2" Base Shoe under Oak Steps and Bull Nose to create Rounded Underside Edge, Assembling the Front Stage Step
* 01.13.12 - Assembling the Top Front Oak Stage
* 01.16.12 - Using a Biscuit Joiner to Assemble the Front Oak Stage
* 01.21.12 - Started Attaching Lower Third 3/4" MDF Panels to Wall using Green Glue and Screws
* 01.22.12 - Finished Mounting all Columns
* 01.26.12 - Photo Comparison of Protostar, Sy Fabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet and Fidelio Velvet
* 01.29.12 - Routered Bull Nose with a 1/2" Round Over Bit on Front and 1/8" Round Over Bit on Back Side
* 02.01.12 - Started Building 45 Degree Front Corner Cabinet Frames
* 02.09.12 - Started Building Front Arched Cabinet Frame
* 02.15.12 - Notching the Divider Facers for the Front Cabinet Frame
* 02.18.12 - Front Center Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.20.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 02.22.12 - Front Corner Cabinet Doors Installed
* 02.23.12 - TIP: Assembling Bowed Boards during Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.27.12 - Added Base Cap Moulding to Cabinet Doors
* 03.04.12 - Magnetic Latches
* 03.11.12 - Creating a Sharped Seam Fabric Soffit
* 03.18.12 - Installed a Recessed Temperature Sensor
* 03.19.12 - Finished Sanding Bare MDF Column Edges down to 220 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/post/1470#post_21797382"
* 03.21.12 - Built Corner Pine Cap
* 03.22.12 - Applied MH Ready Patch to all joints and Screw Holes on Columns 
* 03.25.12 - Finished GG all lower wall MDF, Notched Bullnose for Baseboard, Final Installation of Bullnose Behind Front Row 
* 03.28.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Construction of Bullnose and Stair Tread using Base Shoe 
* 03.31.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Tall Column Construction
* 04.02.12 - Started Installing Crown Moulding around Perimeter of Room
* 04.03.12 - Coped an Inside Corner Crown Moulding
* 04.04.12 - Started Installing Chair Rail
* 04.05.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 04.07.12 - Started Column Trim Moulding, TIPS
* 04.09.12 - Started Installing Base Board
* 04.11.12 - Started Installing Panel Moulding
* 04.17.12 - Started Construction Fabric Panels
* 04.20.12 - Tips on Cutting GOM Fabric [Rotary Cutting Tool, Straigt Edge Clamp]
* 04.23.12 - Building a Fabric Frame around Receptacle Switches and Vents, Started Double Jamb Door Construction
* 04.27.12 - Installing Door Hinges and Door Lock
* 04.30.12 - Hanging Door and Double Jambs
* 05.04.12 - Built Patch Panel Door within a Fabric Frame
* 05.06.12 - Building Fabric Frames Surrounding Door Casing
* 05.07.12 - 3D Concepts of Potential Back Bar
* 05.08.12 - Assembling Moulding Frames for Columns using Framing Jig
* 05.14.12 - Started working on D-Box Platform top Using Two Layers of 3/4" Birch Plywood
* 05.17.12 - Built Recessed Access Panels for D-Box Actuators
* 05.22.12 - Started Installing GOM Fabric Under Soffit Light Tray
* 05.31.12 - Final Light Tray Moulding Diagram, Started Installing Soffit Mouldings
* 06.06.12 - Room Cleanup and then Started Priming the Room
* 06.07.12 - First Coat of Black Benjamin Moore Paint
* 06.17.12 - Installing Shelving Brackets for Speakers, Working on Theater Foyer Moulding, Stapled GOM Fabric to Cabinet Door
* 06.20.12 - Nearly Finished Painting
* 08.13.12 - Construction Completed
* 08.28.12 - LED TV Movie Poster Now Displays Start / End Time of Movie using MainLobby
* Working on Room Acoustics, Picture, Automation User Interface
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction (External Thread)
* 01.13.14 - Aura Pro Bass Shaker install in Berkline Chair
 
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#1,677 ·
I forgot to post pics of this from the other day of how I've been cutting the fabric.


I've found it easier to cut on the floor using my tile as a straight edge.


I'm using a smaller ripped piece of MDF as the cutting board, rotatry cutting tool and straight edge ruler clamp. The roll itself acts as a nice straight edge to butt the MDF to.



It just so happens the one I documented happens to be the one with the yellow tag that indicates there is a flaw in the material. If you look closely in the picture you can see it.






The rotary cutting tool does a fantastic job of cutting the fabric. Sure beats the expensive scissors I was initially using. I'm hoping the MDF cutting board will keep the blade sharp.




I've also been tracing the fabric frame outlines on the wall before I remove them. Just in case I want to apply the acoustic material to the wall before installing the frame.
 
#1,679 ·
NOW you show us the rotary cutting tool......only after I installed/cut nearly 40 yards of fabric lol.


Things are really looking good, the fabric going up on the walls is looking sweet.
 
#1,680 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21925783


Thanks Brad. That does look nice and brings up another issue I may need to think about which is do I want to hide the side sound seals.


Or are people just spraying them black? Otherwise I'd have to get creative with some moulding to hide them.

Fortunately, my seals were already black - I think that was an option where I had a choice when I ordered the doors.
 
#1,681 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21926959


I didn't try contacting GOM yet. I may do so. I'll cut what I can from the frame and try to use it elsewhere so I don't get in a bind.


I did email FabricMate a photo although compared to this one it didn't do it justice. I put this up against a window so you can see the light coming through.


Those of you with long runs may want to preplan and pull those long runs from the roll just to make sure you don't come down to the end and have an imperfection in the material.


Had I known what the tags meant, I could have worked around it with some planning. Hopefully whoever reads this can prevent it from happening to them.


Well to put it kindly, that is ********. Unacceptable!
 
#1,682 ·
I love that red color! That will be an awesome contrast. In fact, I like the real color versus the darker plum reds in your renders. Looking very COOL!
 
#1,683 ·
Mario,

I'm not sure if you answered this already and I haven't really gotten into the finishing stages of my theater so I guess I'm really just asking for educational purposes. But, why didn't you paint the columns, chair rail, and trim before you installed the fabric panels? I'm pretty good at cutting in with a brush, but you must be a cutting-in savant if you can paint that and not allow paint to get on the fabric.
 
#1,684 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon /forum/post/21929917


OMG. I love that rotary tool!!! I REALLY needed one. The scissors we used worked of course but it would have been a lot easier.


All things aside, the room is looking gorgeous! I really love the color combinations and style. Cool and classy at the same time.

Yeah. I guess I haven't seen anyone else mention it in a build thread yet. Definitely a must-have.


Thanks for the positive comments too!
 
#1,685 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/21933571


Well to put it kindly, that is ********. Unacceptable!

I did get a call and email from my sales rep that I dealt with initially. They gave me some information on how to possibly resolve the defect but also mentioned that they could replace the section of fabric if I returned it.


I think I'll have enough spare though. So hopefully crisis averted.
 
#1,686 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/21930544


Fortunately, my seals were already black - I think that was an option where I had a choice when I ordered the doors.

It doesn't sound like you ordered the sound proof seals from the Sound Proof company then since they don't sell doors AFAIK.


I guess I could also just spray paint them to blend with the door color.
 
#1,687 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by JVoth /forum/post/21935044


Mario,

I'm not sure if you answered this already and I haven't really gotten into the finishing stages of my theater so I guess I'm really just asking for educational purposes. But, why didn't you paint the columns, chair rail, and trim before you installed the fabric panels? I'm pretty good at cutting in with a brush, but you must be a cutting-in savant if you can paint that and not allow paint to get on the fabric.

The panels are currently removable. I just needed some visual motivation to keep going. Once the room is painted, I'll put them back on the wall and make them a bit more permanent.
 
#1,689 ·
Thanks Oronomus,


I'm actually trying to wrap my head around building the custom door jamb now.


Does anyone know if the threshold get built with the jamb?


I'm trying to figure out how wide to make the threshold as well. Typically I think they have the threshold break between surfaces (carpet/wood) underneath the middle of the door. So I'm thinking from the theater side you will only see carpet when the door is closed.


From the foyer side I just need to figure out does the threshold span the entire depth of the two door jambs or not.


I did check out the Oak jambs at Menards and they looked pretty pathetic as far as being straight. Some of them looked like Rainbows they were so bowed. So it looks like I may just roll my own.
 
#1,691 ·
I just started on my jamb this weekend. The opening should be 1/4" wider than the door. That will leave you with 1/8" on either side of the door so it will close properly. I wouldn't angle unless you have problems with it closing properly.


Here is a pretty good video that talks about the dimensions and give a short "how to". (and no, this isn't me
)

Door Jamb[/URL]
 
#1,692 ·
FYI regarding the rotary cutter Mario is using. I stopped by JoAnn's Fabrics this weekend and they have ALL rotary cutters on 50%! I picked one up after seeing how easy Mario was able to cut his fabric. I think the sale might be over either today or Wed, so I wouldn't wait around.
 
#1,693 ·
I pulled an 18 hour straight bender this weekend and got quite a bit accomplished.


I knocked out all the fabric frames except for the back door entry wall.


I didn't want to have to use long screws for the outlets and have them be all wobbly so I used the 4 gang box that I cut down to a 3/4" depth and fitted it right into the frame.













I ordered an 6"x8" vent cover for my 6" dead vent. Since the vent was larger than the actual opening, I painted the frame and wall black just so you couldn't see anything through the vent.







After stapling the backside. I stapled around the opening I framed earlier. Then lightly hot glued the edges so they couldn't get snagged.



Next I marked my holes.



I dabbed a little hot glue before pre-drilling the holes for the screws to hold the vent.



Now I just need to spray the vent black.



Here are some shots with the fabric frames in place. I used some velcro strips on the bottom side so I could easily remove them from the wall.












Next, I primed the underside of the light tray so it's ready for fabric when the time comes.



I started working on the jambs as well. I decided to go with Poplar for the legs and header. I couldn't justify spending the extra for two jambs in Maple for something that will just get primed and painted.


As usual, it's challenging to find straight stock. So I'll have to swap some boards later.


I made a little jig for the router so I could easily knock out the four dadoes for the top of the jamb legs. I think those are called rabbetts. ?!? They are 3/8" deep and 3/4" wide so the header should fit in there nicely.








I'm at a stand still now until I figure out what my measurements are supposed to be around the door, under the door, jamb to the floor, etc. I couldn't really find anything online that told me how to build a jamb.
 
#1,694 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR /forum/post/21940415


I just started on my jamb this weekend. The opening should be 1/4" wider than the door. That will leave you with 1/8" on either side of the door so it will close properly. I wouldn't angle unless you have problems with it closing properly.


Here is a pretty good video that talks about the dimensions and give a short "how to". (and no, this isn't me
)

Door Jamb[/URL]

Thanks. That's the video I've watched many times and found the most helpful.


I'm assuming the top should be 1/8" too?


What about clearance below the door to the threshold?


Should I leave 3/8" to 1/2" below the jamb legs for carpet/pad?


I'm assuming the threshold should get cut to fit inside the jamb? Then I can set my door seals on top of the threshold.


I'm planning to route the edges with a 1/8" round over.
 
#1,695 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoSport /forum/post/21940446


FYI regarding the rotary cutter Mario is using. I stopped by JoAnn's Fabrics this weekend and they have ALL rotary cutters on 50%! I picked one up after seeing how easy Mario was able to cut his fabric. I think the sale might be over either today or Wed, so I wouldn't wait around.

Unfortunately I paid full price at Hobby Lobby. It wasn't worth the gas money and time though to go back with one of thsoe 50% off competitor coupons.
 
#1,696 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21940471


Thanks. That's the video I've watched many times and found the most helpful.


I'm assuming the top should be 1/8" too?


What about clearance below the door to the threshold?


Should I leave 3/8" to 1/2" below the jamb legs for carpet/pad?


I'm assuming the threshold should get cut to fit inside the jamb? Then I can set my door seals on top of the threshold.


I'm planning to route the edges with a 1/8" round over.

I plan on having the top gap be 1/8" also. The below door clearance will depend on your floor covering. Depending on the thickness of your pad and carpet choice, you may need to be closer to 1" clearance from the bare floor. I was planning a 5/8" threshold, and have since read a few comments that make me think I need to be thicker than that. Here's one from stockmonkey2000 from my thread.

Quote:
Just one note on the threshold - My threshold rises 3/4 inch above the subfloor but now that the carpet is done (low pile carpet) the door rubs on the carpet. When opening the door the bottom door seal is still somewhat in a lowered position and I have to rock the door back and forth a bit to get the seal to come up. The carpet is flush with the threshold but I wish it stuck up another 1/4 inch or so. I'm going to have to cut down my door a bit and will probably have to remove the threshold and raise it up another 1/4".

Hope this helps!
 
#1,698 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog /forum/post/21941344


Have you thought about color matched the return cover to the fabric? Black will look good, but you can really make it disappear. Just a thought.


Looks great!


Bud

I was going to suggest the same thing.


Things are really looking great, Mario.
 
#1,700 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoSport /forum/post/21940446


FYI regarding the rotary cutter Mario is using. I stopped by JoAnn's Fabrics this weekend and they have ALL rotary cutters on 50%! I picked one up after seeing how easy Mario was able to cut his fabric. I think the sale might be over either today or Wed, so I wouldn't wait around.

Can you provide a link from Joann's web site? I've got a few of them around so its an easy trip
 
#1,701 ·
No link, I bought mine in the store. I went in to look at their black velvet and stumbled upon the 50% sale on all the rotary cutters.
 
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