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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread

973K views 3K replies 316 participants last post by  mcascio 
#1 · (Edited)

Electronic House 2013 Gold Award Winner
Best Home Theater $25,000 - $75,000
 
 

AVS Home Theater of the Month
 
 
SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 3 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners
* BACK ROW: 4 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K S-5000 THX
* ATMOS TOP FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* ATMOS TOP REAR LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* BACK LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SUB1: M&K MX-350 THX
* SUB2: HSU VTF-15H
* SUB 3 & 4: DIY Flat Pack Builds - Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer  4 Cubic Feet each

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* BEFORE WALLS: 27' Deep x 17'9" Wide (excludes theater foyer entryway)
* FINISHED ROOM AFTER SOUND PROOFING: 25'8" Deep x 16'9.5" Wide
* NOTES: The theater is being constructed in part of our unfinished basement. There is a 23" drop in the basement to allow for stadium seating.
* SHORTEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION: 8'10"
* TALLEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION in Drop Down area: 10'9"
* Front Row: 8'6" from Front of Seat to screen
* Back Row: 14'7" from Front of Seat to screen
* Projector: 16'2" from Lens to Screen
* Screen: 136" Wide 2.35
VIEWING DISTANCE TO BOTTOM OF SCREEN FROM CENTER FRONT ROW
* SEAT INCLINED: 10' 5 1/2"
* SEAT DECLINED: 11' 2"
 

EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon X5200W, OLD: Denon AVR-4520CI (11.2), OLD: Onkyo NX-TR3008 (FOR SALE)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-5 (Center, Front Left & Right, Side Surround Left & Right)
* AMP: Behringer EP4000 (2 Dayton Subs)
* AMP: (2) Dayton APA100 (Atmos Speakers Top Front & Top Rear inside Soffit)
* BLU-RAY PLAYER: Dune HD Max
* GAMING: PS3, (2) XBOX-360
* POWER CONDITIONER: Belkin PF60
* IMAGE PROCESSING: Darbee Darblet DVP5000
* STORAGE: Cinemar MLD-4000 12 TB Mass Storage Server
* PROJECTOR: Panasonic PT-AE8000U
* SCREEN: 136" Wide 2.35 AT Screen (Seymour AV)
* TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer / DVDLobby
* REMOTE CONTROL: Logitech Harmony 700
* LIGHTING CONTROL: Insteon via MainLobby
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Proliphix NT-20E Thermostat via MainLobby
* INTERCOM: Not sure yet - most likely go with Russound
 
CARPETING
* Masland Quadrate Times Square
 
FABRIC
* Red Walls - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#418) Claret Accent Fabric
* Speaker Frames - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#408) Black Fabric
* Top of Front Cabinet Below Screen & Sides of Vertical Front Cabinets Facing Screen - Protostar Self-Adhesive Flocked Light Trap Material
* Bordering Edges that the Seymour AV Screen sit's on - Black Triple Plush Velvet

SOUND PROOFING
The room above the theater is a nursery and office. One of the rooms next to the theater is a furnace room. So it's important to keep the sound out of the rooms above and prevent sound coming in from the furnace room.
Current plan of attack is to use two layers of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue with sound absorption clips. Staggered stud walls will be on any framed walls.
* Minimum 1-3/4" Solid Core Door with automatic door bottom.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Hand painted black light star ceiling painted by Night Sky Murals
 
VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER
* A 40" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Number of Movies watched in theater, Minutes remaining of playing movies, movies coming soon, lbs of popcorn consumed, etc.  The user interface on the LED Movie Poster is powered by MainLobby.
 
BASS SHAKERS
Aura Pro Bass Shakers in Back Row (4 Chairs)

SOUND TREATMENT
Recycled Denim/ Titus EcoShield (1" x 4' x 50') (Bought from Vyron Corporation)

D-BOX MOTION PLATFORM
D-Box Motion Platform in Front Row (3 Chairs)


VIRTUAL (MATTERPORT) WALK-THROUGH OF CINEMAR HOME THEATER
https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ur3p2q8Hk9r



UNFINISHED BASEMENT AREA


FINAL ATMOS SPEAKER PLACEMENT






MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Side View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Side View - RESERVED)

LATEST THEATER DESIGN (3D View)







 
 
FABRICS, CARPET & PAINT INFORMATION

 
 
 
COMPOSITED 3D IMAGE WITH ACTUAL PHOTO [There is an angled divider.  The Left Upper Area is the actual photo, the right lower area is 3D]

 
FINAL ACTUAL PHOTO WITH NIGHT SKY MURAL STAR CEILING:

 
LED TV MOVIE POSTER DISPLAYS CURRENTLY PLAYING MOVIE AND ACTUAL START / END TIMES USING CINEMAR'S MAINLOBBY SOFTWARE

 
iPad Movie Selection using Cinemar Software. Also controls thermostat, lighting, projector, receiver and security.

 
THREAD INDEX
* 12.22.09 - Construction Thread Started
* 04.27.10 - Generac House Generator Installed
* 12.04.10 - Cleaned up 4 Miles of Cable in Media Rack
* 03.19.11 - Construction Lumber and Green Glue arrived, Reworked Sump Pump Area and Added Additional Breakers to Media Rack Closet
* 03.25.11 - 3D Renders of Rec Room Area outside Theater
* 03.27.11 - Framing of Interior Basement Walls Started
* 04.03.11 - Theater Framing Started, Foundation Injection Crack Repair Completed
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Construction using Whisper Clips, DC-04 Clips, Drywall and OSB
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Heating/Cooling Supply Sound Proofing
* 04.21.11 - 3D Wireframe Composite of Seats and Columns within Theater Shell
* 05.29.11 - Dead Vent Framed and Plumbing for Bar Sink Moved out of Theater
* 06.01.11 - Started Framing Soffits
* 06.04.11 - 3D Illustration of Clips and Channel Construction
* 06.06.11 - Started Framing Interior Theater Walls
* 06.08.11 - Raising the Sunken Concrete Floor Up
* 06.12.11 - Theater Room Wiring Diagram
* 06.12.11 - Suspended Sound Proofed Vent Muffler Diagram
* 06.15.11 - Started Construction of Vent Mufflers
* 06.19.11 - Ran Wiring for Speakers, Bass Shakers, Cat5 and Subs. Puddy Pads
* 06.23.11 - Can Light Backer Box Construction
* 06.23.11 - Initial Lighting Diagram
* 06.25.11 - Vent Muffler Installed using IB-3 Clips
* 06.26.11 - Corner Clamps, Acoustic Sealant, Network Thermostat Wired, R19 in Ceiling Started
* 06.29.11 - Speaker and Column Placement Diagram and Discussions
* 06.29.11 - Pipe Wrap on Vent Boots, IB-3 Clips on 2nd Vent Muffler, Instulating Vent Muffler
* 07.01.11 - 2nd Vent Muffler Installed into Soffit
* 07.01.11 - TIP: Whisper Clip Inside Corner Placement Diagram
* 07.03.11 - Hung Whisper Clips and Started Installed Hat Channel
* 07.05.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 1 and all Hat Channels Installed
* 07.07.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 2 - From the Inside of the Cold Air Return
* 07.11.11 - Tips and Tricks to hanging Whisper Clips and Hat Channels
* 07.13.11 - HVAC Items Completed: Dead Vent Inline Fan Installed and enclosed, Air Tubes installed for Vent Dampers and Arzel Zones
* 07.18.11 - Theater Insulation Nearly Complete, All Holes Caulkded and Puddy Pads on Light Gang Boxes
* 07.18.11 - Theater Foyer Sheet Rocked
* 07.31.11 - 5/8" OSB and Plywood installed on Ceiling
* 08.04.11 - 5/8" OSB Installed on Walls (First Layer)
* 08.06.11 - 5/8" Drywall and Green Glue Installed on Walls and Ceiling (Second Layer)
* 08.09.11 - Taping and Mudding Drywall Begins
* 08.10.11 - Gray Primer Applied to Drywall
* 08.12.11 - Our Newborn Arrives
* 08.13.11 - Cement Floor Cut up to Recess Electrical and Data Outlets for Back Row Seating
* 08.21.11 - Elk Security Panel Cleaned Up
* 08.22.11 - MainLobby User Interface for the Elk Security System
* 09.09.11 - Photos of Basement
* 09.21.11 - Patch Panel Cabinet Framed In and Bar Area Cabinets Installed
* 09.26.11 - 2x4x12's Added to Soffit and Stairway Platform Construction Begins
* 09.28.11 - First Row Riser Construction Started
* 09.28.11 - Granite Bar Top Installed
* 09.28.11 - DBox Alumninum Frame Assembled
* 10.04.11 - First Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.05.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.06.11 - Profile Illustration of Bar Construction Outside Theater
* 10.11.11 - Riser Step Framing Started
* 10.15.11 - Front Stage Framing Started
* 10.19.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Added to Front Stage and Steps
* 10.20.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Wireframe Render
* 10.22.11 - Filled Stage with Sand
* 10.24.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 10.24.11 - Insulated Areas of Front Stage and Side Steps
* 10.25.11 - Cutting OC703 and Corner Bass Traps Installed
* 10.26.11 - Projected Video onto Wall for estimating Appropriate Screen
* 10.26.11 - Nailed Two Layers of Recycled Denim to Screen Wall
* 10.27.11 - 3D Renders of Red Vs Black Soffit Underside
* 11.02.11 - Cut 16 Holes for 4" LED Can Lights
* 11.04.11 - First Coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue rolled onto Star Ceiling Area
* 11.11.11 - Can Light Housing Installed in Open Soffit
* 11.12.11 - Patch Panel Terminated
* 11.13.11 - Started 3/4" MDF Speaker Column
* 11.18.11 - Column Construnction Plans with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Moulding Installed on Bar Cabinets
* 11.18.11 - Bar Plan with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Rec Room Photos
* 11.21.11 - More Column Construction and Moulding
* 11.22.11 - Detailed Diagram of Mouldings and their Profiles used in the Theater
* 11.23.11 - Building a Removable Magnet Speaker Frame with Black GOM Fabric
* 12.12.11 - Spray Painting 4" LED Can Lights Black
* 12.14.11 - Installed 4" LED Can Lights
* 12.17.11 - Completed Removable Speaker Grill Frames
* 12.18.11 - Attaching Columns to the Wall
* 12.19.11 - Installing Gang Boxes for Data and Electric into Columns
* 12.26.11 - Started working on Oak Steps and Bull Nose
* 12.27.11 - Quick Tips on Cutting Curves with the Jig Saw
* 12.27.11 - Carpet VS Hard Wood on Stage Renders and Discussion
* 12.31.11 - Creating the Large Curved Bull Nose in front of the Front Row
* 01.03.12 - Started Cutting the Oak for the top of the Front Stage
* 01.08.12 - Adding 1/2" Base Shoe under Oak Steps and Bull Nose to create Rounded Underside Edge, Assembling the Front Stage Step
* 01.13.12 - Assembling the Top Front Oak Stage
* 01.16.12 - Using a Biscuit Joiner to Assemble the Front Oak Stage
* 01.21.12 - Started Attaching Lower Third 3/4" MDF Panels to Wall using Green Glue and Screws
* 01.22.12 - Finished Mounting all Columns
* 01.26.12 - Photo Comparison of Protostar, Sy Fabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet and Fidelio Velvet
* 01.29.12 - Routered Bull Nose with a 1/2" Round Over Bit on Front and 1/8" Round Over Bit on Back Side
* 02.01.12 - Started Building 45 Degree Front Corner Cabinet Frames
* 02.09.12 - Started Building Front Arched Cabinet Frame
* 02.15.12 - Notching the Divider Facers for the Front Cabinet Frame
* 02.18.12 - Front Center Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.20.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 02.22.12 - Front Corner Cabinet Doors Installed
* 02.23.12 - TIP: Assembling Bowed Boards during Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.27.12 - Added Base Cap Moulding to Cabinet Doors
* 03.04.12 - Magnetic Latches
* 03.11.12 - Creating a Sharped Seam Fabric Soffit
* 03.18.12 - Installed a Recessed Temperature Sensor
* 03.19.12 - Finished Sanding Bare MDF Column Edges down to 220 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/post/1470#post_21797382"
* 03.21.12 - Built Corner Pine Cap
* 03.22.12 - Applied MH Ready Patch to all joints and Screw Holes on Columns 
* 03.25.12 - Finished GG all lower wall MDF, Notched Bullnose for Baseboard, Final Installation of Bullnose Behind Front Row 
* 03.28.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Construction of Bullnose and Stair Tread using Base Shoe 
* 03.31.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Tall Column Construction
* 04.02.12 - Started Installing Crown Moulding around Perimeter of Room
* 04.03.12 - Coped an Inside Corner Crown Moulding
* 04.04.12 - Started Installing Chair Rail
* 04.05.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 04.07.12 - Started Column Trim Moulding, TIPS
* 04.09.12 - Started Installing Base Board
* 04.11.12 - Started Installing Panel Moulding
* 04.17.12 - Started Construction Fabric Panels
* 04.20.12 - Tips on Cutting GOM Fabric [Rotary Cutting Tool, Straigt Edge Clamp]
* 04.23.12 - Building a Fabric Frame around Receptacle Switches and Vents, Started Double Jamb Door Construction
* 04.27.12 - Installing Door Hinges and Door Lock
* 04.30.12 - Hanging Door and Double Jambs
* 05.04.12 - Built Patch Panel Door within a Fabric Frame
* 05.06.12 - Building Fabric Frames Surrounding Door Casing
* 05.07.12 - 3D Concepts of Potential Back Bar
* 05.08.12 - Assembling Moulding Frames for Columns using Framing Jig
* 05.14.12 - Started working on D-Box Platform top Using Two Layers of 3/4" Birch Plywood
* 05.17.12 - Built Recessed Access Panels for D-Box Actuators
* 05.22.12 - Started Installing GOM Fabric Under Soffit Light Tray
* 05.31.12 - Final Light Tray Moulding Diagram, Started Installing Soffit Mouldings
* 06.06.12 - Room Cleanup and then Started Priming the Room
* 06.07.12 - First Coat of Black Benjamin Moore Paint
* 06.17.12 - Installing Shelving Brackets for Speakers, Working on Theater Foyer Moulding, Stapled GOM Fabric to Cabinet Door
* 06.20.12 - Nearly Finished Painting
* 08.13.12 - Construction Completed
* 08.28.12 - LED TV Movie Poster Now Displays Start / End Time of Movie using MainLobby
* Working on Room Acoustics, Picture, Automation User Interface
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction (External Thread)
* 01.13.14 - Aura Pro Bass Shaker install in Berkline Chair
 
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#1,777 ·
I started knocking out the moulding frames for the lower part of all the columns. I could have just attached these individually to the columns after painting the columns and stapling the fabric...but I thought it would be much easier to have them prebuilt and painted. Then I can just brad nail the entire frame to the column and touch up the holes.


I used this frame jig from Menards. I just glued the corners and let sit for an hour. Then shot a 1 1/4" 18 gauge brad nail through the corners to lock both pieces together.


I have to build eight of these.




 
#1,778 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21997891


I'd rather not crowd the space with something that barely gets used and on top of that doesn't look polished or even functional. As mentioned, the bar just outside the theater that seats nine comfortably can act as my overflow area. By removing the bar, this also gives me the flexibility to move the back row seating further back. Giving more leg room. This also opens the back up for walking to your seats. Overflow can still gather in the back or I can pull in the bar stools. One more plus, I just saved myself a week's worth of work and 10 trips to the big box stores.



If I come up with a design I like I may change my mind. Maybe at some point I could build more of a sofa table that's only 5' wide.

At my last house / theater I always pulled in my pool table chairs first because they had built-in drink holders. My wife and I also bought some of those oversized bean bag chairs and tossed them more toward the front and the sides of the room. You wouldn't believe how many folks gave up a home theater seat just to flop into their own bean bag - they loved it! And when the day is over everything is removed in minutes. I don't have the luxury of a sit-up bar in my current home basement plans, so that is why I will be taking the minimalist approach with this back bar and breaking out the 'ol bean bag seating as the need arises.


Keep up the great work!
 
#1,779 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/21997950


I started knocking out the moulding frames for the lower part of all the columns. I could have just attached these individually to the columns after painting the columns and stapling the fabric...but I thought it would be much easier to have them prebuilt and painted. Then I can just brad nail the entire frame to the column and touch up the holes.


I used this frame jig from Menards. I just glued the corners and let sit for an hour. Then shot a 1 1/4" 18 gauge brad nail through the corners to lock both pieces together.


I have to build eight of these.


Did you make the molding profiles or did you buy them?
 
#1,780 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG /forum/post/21998280


At my last house / theater I always pulled in my pool table chairs first because they had built-in drink holders. My wife and I also bought some of those oversized bean bag chairs and tossed them more toward the front and the sides of the room. You wouldn't believe how many folks gave up a home theater seat just to flop into their own bean bag - they loved it! And when the day is over everything is removed in minutes. I don't have the luxury of a sit-up bar in my current home basement plans, so that is why I will be taking the minimalist approach with this back bar and breaking out the 'ol bean bag seating as the need arises.


Keep up the great work!

All great ideas. Especially liking the chairs with cup holders.
 
#1,782 ·
I forgot to mention...with moulding with this much detail, it's better if you can cut all the frame pieces from the same board. I've noticed there are slight variances probably due to the sharpness and wood when they ran it through their machines. But you will have better luck on getting tigher matching corners from the same run.

 
#1,783 ·
I finished constructing all the frames for the lower columns. I dry fitted them in all the columns for now. Once the columns and frames are painted, I'll staple the GOM fabric to the column itself, then brad nail the frames to the column.




I'm getting close to installing the fabric on the light tray, but wanted to finalize my plans for trimming it out.


Here's my current game plan. I need to add a little height to the crown to hide the can light enclosures in the tray. I'm not sure I'm sold on this, but I haven't come up with anything better.

 
#1,784 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/22007358


I finished constructing all the frames for the lower columns. I dry fitted them in all the columns for now. Once the columns and frames are painted, I'll staple the GOM fabric to the column itself, then brad nail the frames to the column.




I'm getting close to installing the fabric on the light tray, but wanted to finalize my plans for trimming it out.


Here's my current game plan. I need to add a little height to the crown to hide the can light enclosures in the tray. I'm not sure I'm sold on this, but I haven't come up with anything better.


Lower the baseboard connected to the crown to be flush with the baseboard laying horizontally on the soffit. I think it would flow better
 
#1,785 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/22010369


Lower the baseboard connected to the crown to be flush with the baseboard laying horizontally on the soffit. I think it would flow better

+1 to what Larry said, but I would use a router and a roundover bit to round the outside corner of the baseboard laying horizontally on the soffit. I would then lower the vertical baseboard to keep a 1/4" reveal with the rounded-over corner of the horizontal baseboard. It would add just a touch of extra detail IMHO.
 
#1,786 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG /forum/post/22011639


+1 to what Larry said, but I would use a router and a roundover bit to round the outside corner of the baseboard laying horizontally on the soffit. I would then lower the vertical baseboard to keep a 1/4" reveal with the rounded-over corner of the horizontal baseboard. It would add just a touch of extra detail IMHO.

I like your idea. I think leaving that little lip adds another reveal line. We did this in our Master Suite and it turned out great.
 
#1,787 ·
So a major set back tonight. I finally pulled the D-Box actuators out of storage. I wanted to take some height measurements with the platform on so I could match it to the surrounding fixed area.


After making all the connections, one of the actuators is giving me an error and I noticed some hydraulic oil leaking near the actuator that elevates.


This was a major disappointment after waiting so long to integrate this into the theater.


I've got an email into D-box, but something tells me the leaking oil is not a good thing.
 
#1,788 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/22013194



I've got an email into D-box, but something tells me the leaking oil is not a good thing.

I'm going to go out on a limb here, but I don't think it was designed to leak oil


Sorry about the setback
 
#1,790 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/22014421


Yeah -that's what boats are for.

That right there is funny. I admire your ability to laugh in the face of adversity.


Bummer about the bad actuator. Hope it gets resolved properly and quickly.
 
#1,791 ·
I finished test mounting the frame that will sit behind the actual screen and frame. This will be taken down and then wrapped with either Protostar Hi-tack flocked light trap material or triple plush black velvet.




I started working on the top D-Box platform. I'll be adding two layers of 3/4" birch plywood. There will be two access panels hidden beneath the carpet and built into the platform. I'll be using some handles from Parts-Express that I'll install in each panel to make it easier to remove since it will be a tight fit. I've created a ledge on the lower 3/4" board so the panel can't fall through and I'll have something to screw them down. The carpet will be seamed and velcroed to the platform for easy access. The challenge I face is trying to screw the deck down to the aluminum platform and hitting the grooved channel with the screws.


First layer cut. The platform is bigger than 8' so I'll have to seam them together.









I also did a small test moulding section for the soffit. I don't have the larger crown yet so I tested with some shorter crown left overs. I'm thinking of adding a 3/4" outside corner to help separate the ceiling from the soffit. I think it'll also help define the soffit.

 
#1,792 ·
are you doing rope or led lights in the soffit? or just doing the star ceiling?
 
#1,793 ·
I'm planning for color changing led lights. But also need to allow room for a total of (8) 4' black lights to charge the stars.


I may eventually use some led lighting from Lightorama that allows me to sequence the colors per led light and even sync to music which could create some pretty unique effects up on the star ceiling. I'd have to do lots of testing but I may even be able to make it look like the sky is moving with some trickery.
This may be more of a winter type project though once the theater is done.
 
#1,794 ·
nice!!! your theater will go down in history as the theater that everyone took a little something from to ad to there's
...... i will be the first to admit it thank you for the bar design lol!!
 
#1,795 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by snickers1 /forum/post/22020777


nice!!! your theater will go down in history as the theater that everyone took a little something from to ad to there's
...... i will be the first to admit it thank you for the bar design lol!!

Thanks snickers1.


Just make sure you have a cold one for me at your new bar!



I'll continue to provide as much of the designs as possible for others as well as provide feedback, reviews on products, tools and helpful tips I pick up along the way.
 
#1,796 ·
Here's a sample render with the extra outside corner moulding added. (I've lightened the image quite a bit to help showcase the mouldings) Hard to tell though if you don't know what to look for. But I think it'll make a huge difference. Especially from when you walk in the room. There are no reveal lines below the ceiling...everything goes up from the drywall. This drops it down into the room and creates a nice border and separates the flat drywall from the satin moulding.

 
#1,798 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/22022946


I'll continue to provide as much of the designs as possible for others as well as provide feedback, reviews on products, tools and helpful tips I pick up along the way.

Speaking of tools, Amazon is having a sale on select Bosch tools.


$20 off $100 or $40 off $200


I ordered the Bosch MX25EK-33 120-Volt Oscillating Tool Kit and added a Bosch accessory kit to the order to put it just above $200 and get the $40 off
 
#1,799 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/22024546


Speaking of tools, Amazon is having a sale on select Bosch tools.


$20 off $100 or $40 off $200


I ordered the Bosch MX25EK-33 120-Volt Oscillating Tool Kit and added a Bosch accessory kit to the order to put it just above $200 and get the $40 off

Thanks for the deal Larry, you reminded me I needed a circular saw



Amazon and Bosch get me again!
 
#1,800 ·
Here's what I think I'm going to run with at the moment for the tray.


I may run with this flat stock piece instead of the outside corner moulding as shown in this illustration on the left side. It ends up accomplishing the same thing and allows me to use a stock piece of door stop to the right of it rather than having to rip down base board.




I probably don't even need to add an 1/8" round over on the bottom right side moulding. Once it's black, it's really hard to tell especially when the lights are on and you are looking up.


You can see the defined line in the rendering created by adding just the small bit of moulding.







 
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