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The Cinemar Home Theater Construction Thread

973K views 3K replies 316 participants last post by  mcascio 
#1 · (Edited)

Electronic House 2013 Gold Award Winner
Best Home Theater $25,000 - $75,000
 
 

AVS Home Theater of the Month
 
 
SEATING
* FRONT ROW: 3 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners
* BACK ROW: 4 Curved Berkline 45003 Black Leather Motorized Recliners

SPEAKERS
* CENTER: M&K S-5000 THX
* FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K S-5000 THX
* ATMOS TOP FRONT LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* ATMOS TOP REAR LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SURROUND LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* BACK LEFT/RIGHT: M&K SS-150 THX
* SUB1: M&K MX-350 THX
* SUB2: HSU VTF-15H
* SUB 3 & 4: DIY Flat Pack Builds - Dayton Audio RSS460HO-4 18" Reference HO Subwoofer  4 Cubic Feet each

ROOM DIMENSIONS & MEASUREMENTS
* BEFORE WALLS: 27' Deep x 17'9" Wide (excludes theater foyer entryway)
* FINISHED ROOM AFTER SOUND PROOFING: 25'8" Deep x 16'9.5" Wide
* NOTES: The theater is being constructed in part of our unfinished basement. There is a 23" drop in the basement to allow for stadium seating.
* SHORTEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION: 8'10"
* TALLEST CEILING HEIGHT BEFORE CONSTRUCTION in Drop Down area: 10'9"
* Front Row: 8'6" from Front of Seat to screen
* Back Row: 14'7" from Front of Seat to screen
* Projector: 16'2" from Lens to Screen
* Screen: 136" Wide 2.35
VIEWING DISTANCE TO BOTTOM OF SCREEN FROM CENTER FRONT ROW
* SEAT INCLINED: 10' 5 1/2"
* SEAT DECLINED: 11' 2"
 

EQUIPMENT
* RECEIVER: Denon X5200W, OLD: Denon AVR-4520CI (11.2), OLD: Onkyo NX-TR3008 (FOR SALE)
* AMP: Emotiva XPA-5 (Center, Front Left & Right, Side Surround Left & Right)
* AMP: Behringer EP4000 (2 Dayton Subs)
* AMP: (2) Dayton APA100 (Atmos Speakers Top Front & Top Rear inside Soffit)
* BLU-RAY PLAYER: Dune HD Max
* GAMING: PS3, (2) XBOX-360
* POWER CONDITIONER: Belkin PF60
* IMAGE PROCESSING: Darbee Darblet DVP5000
* STORAGE: Cinemar MLD-4000 12 TB Mass Storage Server
* PROJECTOR: Panasonic PT-AE8000U
* SCREEN: 136" Wide 2.35 AT Screen (Seymour AV)
* TABLET/iPAD/PHONE USER INTERFACE: Cinemar's MainLobby / MLServer / DVDLobby
* REMOTE CONTROL: Logitech Harmony 700
* LIGHTING CONTROL: Insteon via MainLobby
* THERMOSTAT CONTROL: Proliphix NT-20E Thermostat via MainLobby
* INTERCOM: Not sure yet - most likely go with Russound
 
CARPETING
* Masland Quadrate Times Square
 
FABRIC
* Red Walls - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#418) Claret Accent Fabric
* Speaker Frames - FR701 GOM Style 2100 (#408) Black Fabric
* Top of Front Cabinet Below Screen & Sides of Vertical Front Cabinets Facing Screen - Protostar Self-Adhesive Flocked Light Trap Material
* Bordering Edges that the Seymour AV Screen sit's on - Black Triple Plush Velvet

SOUND PROOFING
The room above the theater is a nursery and office. One of the rooms next to the theater is a furnace room. So it's important to keep the sound out of the rooms above and prevent sound coming in from the furnace room.
Current plan of attack is to use two layers of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue with sound absorption clips. Staggered stud walls will be on any framed walls.
* Minimum 1-3/4" Solid Core Door with automatic door bottom.

PAINTED STAR CEILING
* Hand painted black light star ceiling painted by Night Sky Murals
 
VIRTUAL MOVIE POSTER
* A 40" LED TV mounted in Portrait displays the Cover Art of the currently movies along with statistics like: Number of Movies watched in theater, Minutes remaining of playing movies, movies coming soon, lbs of popcorn consumed, etc.  The user interface on the LED Movie Poster is powered by MainLobby.
 
BASS SHAKERS
Aura Pro Bass Shakers in Back Row (4 Chairs)

SOUND TREATMENT
Recycled Denim/ Titus EcoShield (1" x 4' x 50') (Bought from Vyron Corporation)

D-BOX MOTION PLATFORM
D-Box Motion Platform in Front Row (3 Chairs)


VIRTUAL (MATTERPORT) WALK-THROUGH OF CINEMAR HOME THEATER
https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ur3p2q8Hk9r



UNFINISHED BASEMENT AREA


FINAL ATMOS SPEAKER PLACEMENT






MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


MY ORIGINAL PROPOSED THEATER DESIGN (Side View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Top View)


LATEST THEATER DESIGN (Side View - RESERVED)

LATEST THEATER DESIGN (3D View)







 
 
FABRICS, CARPET & PAINT INFORMATION

 
 
 
COMPOSITED 3D IMAGE WITH ACTUAL PHOTO [There is an angled divider.  The Left Upper Area is the actual photo, the right lower area is 3D]

 
FINAL ACTUAL PHOTO WITH NIGHT SKY MURAL STAR CEILING:

 
LED TV MOVIE POSTER DISPLAYS CURRENTLY PLAYING MOVIE AND ACTUAL START / END TIMES USING CINEMAR'S MAINLOBBY SOFTWARE

 
iPad Movie Selection using Cinemar Software. Also controls thermostat, lighting, projector, receiver and security.

 
THREAD INDEX
* 12.22.09 - Construction Thread Started
* 04.27.10 - Generac House Generator Installed
* 12.04.10 - Cleaned up 4 Miles of Cable in Media Rack
* 03.19.11 - Construction Lumber and Green Glue arrived, Reworked Sump Pump Area and Added Additional Breakers to Media Rack Closet
* 03.25.11 - 3D Renders of Rec Room Area outside Theater
* 03.27.11 - Framing of Interior Basement Walls Started
* 04.03.11 - Theater Framing Started, Foundation Injection Crack Repair Completed
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Construction using Whisper Clips, DC-04 Clips, Drywall and OSB
* 04.16.11 - Illustration Showing Theater Heating/Cooling Supply Sound Proofing
* 04.21.11 - 3D Wireframe Composite of Seats and Columns within Theater Shell
* 05.29.11 - Dead Vent Framed and Plumbing for Bar Sink Moved out of Theater
* 06.01.11 - Started Framing Soffits
* 06.04.11 - 3D Illustration of Clips and Channel Construction
* 06.06.11 - Started Framing Interior Theater Walls
* 06.08.11 - Raising the Sunken Concrete Floor Up
* 06.12.11 - Theater Room Wiring Diagram
* 06.12.11 - Suspended Sound Proofed Vent Muffler Diagram
* 06.15.11 - Started Construction of Vent Mufflers
* 06.19.11 - Ran Wiring for Speakers, Bass Shakers, Cat5 and Subs. Puddy Pads
* 06.23.11 - Can Light Backer Box Construction
* 06.23.11 - Initial Lighting Diagram
* 06.25.11 - Vent Muffler Installed using IB-3 Clips
* 06.26.11 - Corner Clamps, Acoustic Sealant, Network Thermostat Wired, R19 in Ceiling Started
* 06.29.11 - Speaker and Column Placement Diagram and Discussions
* 06.29.11 - Pipe Wrap on Vent Boots, IB-3 Clips on 2nd Vent Muffler, Instulating Vent Muffler
* 07.01.11 - 2nd Vent Muffler Installed into Soffit
* 07.01.11 - TIP: Whisper Clip Inside Corner Placement Diagram
* 07.03.11 - Hung Whisper Clips and Started Installed Hat Channel
* 07.05.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 1 and all Hat Channels Installed
* 07.07.11 - Sound Proofed Cold Air Return 2 - From the Inside of the Cold Air Return
* 07.11.11 - Tips and Tricks to hanging Whisper Clips and Hat Channels
* 07.13.11 - HVAC Items Completed: Dead Vent Inline Fan Installed and enclosed, Air Tubes installed for Vent Dampers and Arzel Zones
* 07.18.11 - Theater Insulation Nearly Complete, All Holes Caulkded and Puddy Pads on Light Gang Boxes
* 07.18.11 - Theater Foyer Sheet Rocked
* 07.31.11 - 5/8" OSB and Plywood installed on Ceiling
* 08.04.11 - 5/8" OSB Installed on Walls (First Layer)
* 08.06.11 - 5/8" Drywall and Green Glue Installed on Walls and Ceiling (Second Layer)
* 08.09.11 - Taping and Mudding Drywall Begins
* 08.10.11 - Gray Primer Applied to Drywall
* 08.12.11 - Our Newborn Arrives
* 08.13.11 - Cement Floor Cut up to Recess Electrical and Data Outlets for Back Row Seating
* 08.21.11 - Elk Security Panel Cleaned Up
* 08.22.11 - MainLobby User Interface for the Elk Security System
* 09.09.11 - Photos of Basement
* 09.21.11 - Patch Panel Cabinet Framed In and Bar Area Cabinets Installed
* 09.26.11 - 2x4x12's Added to Soffit and Stairway Platform Construction Begins
* 09.28.11 - First Row Riser Construction Started
* 09.28.11 - Granite Bar Top Installed
* 09.28.11 - DBox Alumninum Frame Assembled
* 10.04.11 - First Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.05.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Installed on First Row Platform
* 10.06.11 - Profile Illustration of Bar Construction Outside Theater
* 10.11.11 - Riser Step Framing Started
* 10.15.11 - Front Stage Framing Started
* 10.19.11 - Second Layer of 3/4" OSB Added to Front Stage and Steps
* 10.20.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Wireframe Render
* 10.22.11 - Filled Stage with Sand
* 10.24.11 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 10.24.11 - Insulated Areas of Front Stage and Side Steps
* 10.25.11 - Cutting OC703 and Corner Bass Traps Installed
* 10.26.11 - Projected Video onto Wall for estimating Appropriate Screen
* 10.26.11 - Nailed Two Layers of Recycled Denim to Screen Wall
* 10.27.11 - 3D Renders of Red Vs Black Soffit Underside
* 11.02.11 - Cut 16 Holes for 4" LED Can Lights
* 11.04.11 - First Coat of Benjamin Moore Starry Night Blue rolled onto Star Ceiling Area
* 11.11.11 - Can Light Housing Installed in Open Soffit
* 11.12.11 - Patch Panel Terminated
* 11.13.11 - Started 3/4" MDF Speaker Column
* 11.18.11 - Column Construnction Plans with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Moulding Installed on Bar Cabinets
* 11.18.11 - Bar Plan with Measurements
* 11.18.11 - Rec Room Photos
* 11.21.11 - More Column Construction and Moulding
* 11.22.11 - Detailed Diagram of Mouldings and their Profiles used in the Theater
* 11.23.11 - Building a Removable Magnet Speaker Frame with Black GOM Fabric
* 12.12.11 - Spray Painting 4" LED Can Lights Black
* 12.14.11 - Installed 4" LED Can Lights
* 12.17.11 - Completed Removable Speaker Grill Frames
* 12.18.11 - Attaching Columns to the Wall
* 12.19.11 - Installing Gang Boxes for Data and Electric into Columns
* 12.26.11 - Started working on Oak Steps and Bull Nose
* 12.27.11 - Quick Tips on Cutting Curves with the Jig Saw
* 12.27.11 - Carpet VS Hard Wood on Stage Renders and Discussion
* 12.31.11 - Creating the Large Curved Bull Nose in front of the Front Row
* 01.03.12 - Started Cutting the Oak for the top of the Front Stage
* 01.08.12 - Adding 1/2" Base Shoe under Oak Steps and Bull Nose to create Rounded Underside Edge, Assembling the Front Stage Step
* 01.13.12 - Assembling the Top Front Oak Stage
* 01.16.12 - Using a Biscuit Joiner to Assemble the Front Oak Stage
* 01.21.12 - Started Attaching Lower Third 3/4" MDF Panels to Wall using Green Glue and Screws
* 01.22.12 - Finished Mounting all Columns
* 01.26.12 - Photo Comparison of Protostar, Sy Fabrics Black Plush Triple Velvet and Fidelio Velvet
* 01.29.12 - Routered Bull Nose with a 1/2" Round Over Bit on Front and 1/8" Round Over Bit on Back Side
* 02.01.12 - Started Building 45 Degree Front Corner Cabinet Frames
* 02.09.12 - Started Building Front Arched Cabinet Frame
* 02.15.12 - Notching the Divider Facers for the Front Cabinet Frame
* 02.18.12 - Front Center Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.20.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 02.22.12 - Front Corner Cabinet Doors Installed
* 02.23.12 - TIP: Assembling Bowed Boards during Cabinet Door Construction
* 02.27.12 - Added Base Cap Moulding to Cabinet Doors
* 03.04.12 - Magnetic Latches
* 03.11.12 - Creating a Sharped Seam Fabric Soffit
* 03.18.12 - Installed a Recessed Temperature Sensor
* 03.19.12 - Finished Sanding Bare MDF Column Edges down to 220 https://www.avsforum.com/forum/post/1470#post_21797382"
* 03.21.12 - Built Corner Pine Cap
* 03.22.12 - Applied MH Ready Patch to all joints and Screw Holes on Columns 
* 03.25.12 - Finished GG all lower wall MDF, Notched Bullnose for Baseboard, Final Installation of Bullnose Behind Front Row 
* 03.28.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Construction of Bullnose and Stair Tread using Base Shoe 
* 03.31.12 - Diagram with Dimensions Showing Tall Column Construction
* 04.02.12 - Started Installing Crown Moulding around Perimeter of Room
* 04.03.12 - Coped an Inside Corner Crown Moulding
* 04.04.12 - Started Installing Chair Rail
* 04.05.12 - Composite Image of Actual Photo at Stage of Construction with 3D Render
* 04.07.12 - Started Column Trim Moulding, TIPS
* 04.09.12 - Started Installing Base Board
* 04.11.12 - Started Installing Panel Moulding
* 04.17.12 - Started Construction Fabric Panels
* 04.20.12 - Tips on Cutting GOM Fabric [Rotary Cutting Tool, Straigt Edge Clamp]
* 04.23.12 - Building a Fabric Frame around Receptacle Switches and Vents, Started Double Jamb Door Construction
* 04.27.12 - Installing Door Hinges and Door Lock
* 04.30.12 - Hanging Door and Double Jambs
* 05.04.12 - Built Patch Panel Door within a Fabric Frame
* 05.06.12 - Building Fabric Frames Surrounding Door Casing
* 05.07.12 - 3D Concepts of Potential Back Bar
* 05.08.12 - Assembling Moulding Frames for Columns using Framing Jig
* 05.14.12 - Started working on D-Box Platform top Using Two Layers of 3/4" Birch Plywood
* 05.17.12 - Built Recessed Access Panels for D-Box Actuators
* 05.22.12 - Started Installing GOM Fabric Under Soffit Light Tray
* 05.31.12 - Final Light Tray Moulding Diagram, Started Installing Soffit Mouldings
* 06.06.12 - Room Cleanup and then Started Priming the Room
* 06.07.12 - First Coat of Black Benjamin Moore Paint
* 06.17.12 - Installing Shelving Brackets for Speakers, Working on Theater Foyer Moulding, Stapled GOM Fabric to Cabinet Door
* 06.20.12 - Nearly Finished Painting
* 08.13.12 - Construction Completed
* 08.28.12 - LED TV Movie Poster Now Displays Start / End Time of Movie using MainLobby
* Working on Room Acoustics, Picture, Automation User Interface
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction
* 11.05.13 - Dual Sealed DIY 18" Dayton Subwoofer Construction (External Thread)
* 01.13.14 - Aura Pro Bass Shaker install in Berkline Chair
 
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#1,802 ·
I continued my construction of the D-Box platform at the moment athough it was difficult given my recent experience with them...I'll explain later.


Here are some of the details of my build with the two access doors to the actuators.




I stapled roofing felt to the top of the bottom layers to prevent any squeaking.





I stacked and aligned the layers together then screwed them together.



Access Panel Opening



I fit the bottom into the opening. This was the piece that I originally cut out. Then applied liquid nails to the top.




Then put the top piece into the opening and shot some brad nails from underneath to lock the pieces in place. Then flipped it over and started screwing them together making sure not to encroach in the area where the handles will be.



Then I measured and used a jig saw to cut the handle opening.



Handle installed



Finally, I had to mark all the center lines of the aluminum platform on the top side of the deck. The screws need to go through the middle slotted area of the aluminum extrusions. Hopefully my marks are pretty close, but there's not much room for error. After that, I started screwing the two layers together.

 
#1,803 ·
So as I posted about a week ago, one of my actuators was not working. I was shocked to find out that D-Box wants a $1,000 plus shipping to Canada to repair the actuator.


I wasn't aware that them just sitting on the shelf could do any damage to them.


I unfortunately wasn't able to put the actuators through their paces when I bought the system so the warranty period had expired.


I'm not an expert, but it would seem like the leaking fluid would mean some type of rubber gasket or a seal has dried up over time and could be a couple dollars in parts.


While I realize the system itself is expensive, so are cars with a lot more moving parts, and I've been fortunate to not have any mechanical repairs costing a $1,000. [knock on wood]


Given they are the only place that can repair them that I'm aware of, it seems like they've got you cornered and are taking advantage of it's customers. Is anyone aware of any other options?


My biggest concern is getting the one repaired and then another one fails after it actually gets some use.


I thought D-Box would be a little bit more willing to work with me given that I haven't even been able to watch a full movie with the system.
 
#1,805 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/22033346


I'm not an expert, but it would seem like the leaking fluid would mean some type of rubber gasket or a seal has dried up over time and could be a couple dollars in parts.

Is the actuator under pressure normally - like a gas-charged shock absorber in a car, or like a hood strut? If so, then rebuilding it yourself would never be realistic. On the other hand, if there's no pressure, does it look like it's held together with normal parts or is it welded or something? (o-rings, snap-rings, bolts, spring pins?) If you can take it apart with normal tools, I'm sure you can put it back together if you're careful, but finding the right seal may be impossible. The internet probably fails us here, as this is most likely proprietary design and repair diagrams will be unavailable - not to mention a list of component part numbers.


Can you post a few detailed images of the failed component?
 
#1,806 ·
I love your renderings and your progress is hard to keep up with. Keep it up.


When I look at the light tray, it looks like it should be placed a little lower than your ceiling just to give it some added depth. Just my two cents and I certainly wouldn't argue with your fantastic eye for this. (Please excuse my poor attempt to modify your pic.)
 
#1,807 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred /forum/post/22033714


Is the actuator under pressure normally - like a gas-charged shock absorber in a car, or like a hood strut? If so, then rebuilding it yourself would never be realistic. On the other hand, if there's no pressure, does it look like it's held together with normal parts or is it welded or something? (o-rings, snap-rings, bolts, spring pins?) If you can take it apart with normal tools, I'm sure you can put it back together if you're careful, but finding the right seal may be impossible. The internet probably fails us here, as this is most likely proprietary design and repair diagrams will be unavailable - not to mention a list of component part numbers.


Can you post a few detailed images of the failed component?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/22033346


So as I posted about a week ago, one of my actuators was not working. I was shocked to find out that D-Box wants a $1,000 plus shipping to Canada to repair the actuator.


I wasn't aware that them just sitting on the shelf could do any damage to them.


I unfortunately wasn't able to put the actuators through their paces when I bought the system so the warranty period had expired.


I'm not an expert, but it would seem like the leaking fluid would mean some type of rubber gasket or a seal has dried up over time and could be a couple dollars in parts.


While I realize the system itself is expensive, so are cars with a lot more moving parts, and I've been fortunate to not have any mechanical repairs costing a $1,000. [knock on wood]


Given they are the only place that can repair them that I'm aware of, it seems like they've got you cornered and are taking advantage of it's customers. Is anyone aware of any other options?


My biggest concern is getting the one repaired and then another one fails after it actually gets some use.


I thought D-Box would be a little bit more willing to work with me given that I haven't even been able to watch a full movie with the system.

A quick patent search may give you the information you need:


Method and apparatus for providing a motion signal with a sound signal using an existing sound signal encoding format

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/7680451.pdf


Motion transducer efficient for small amplitude movements

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6662560.pdf
 
#1,808 ·
I'm afraid those patent filings aren't going to do it - at least not for me. I can't see the detail that we would need to know if it's repairable/rebuild-able. This should be an entirely moot conversation, as D-Box should just be nice and fix it, but I understand you've had the product for years now - so technically any warranty you had will have expired, I'm sure.


Mario, it looks like you've got the SRP-530 platform, which doesn't seem to actually exist any more at the D-Box website. Do you have any direct links to information specific to the model you have? All I'm finding from them is pictures of the units designed to slide under seats - not below platforms. There is a picture and dead link to the SRP-530, which looks like what you've got, but leads nowhere. (I can't get the image out of the website - think it's flash or something, but it's labeled 530 and is at the bottom of this page)


If it's like this, I bet you could get into it, but you still have the problem of finding a new seal.
 
#1,810 ·
I was thinking the same thing. Heck, I was thinking about contacting D-Box myself and giving them an earful and direct them to this thread, but I have zero "pull" with them and don't think that I would get anywhere. The best thing that we can do is make some awareness. I completely understand where they are coming from, but if the product wasn't used, then it seems like they would be interested in at least making it cost affordable for you. Maybe you pay shipping and a small repair charge like $50. I would wager that the parts and labor are close to that is all.
 
#1,811 ·
This is one of my all time favorite threads. I've even purchased some of the tools Mario uses after seeing how he used them in this thread.


Over 200k views for one of the most meticulously documented HT construction projects with frequent updates using hi-res images. D-box should be giving him a set of brand new equipment not just a replacement part!
 
#1,815 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray /forum/post/22049351


Mario: What software are you using to do your renders?

I believe he is using Newtek's Lightwave3D software, at least that is what he was using at the beginning of his project.
 
#1,816 ·
Thanks guys for all the reponses.


I sent D-Box an email last week asking them for instructions from the tech on how to repair the unit myself as well as seeing if I could elevate my situation to someone else there. That was last week Tuesday and I haven't heard back yet. I resent the email yesterday so hopefully I'll get a response.


I bought the system as a DEMO back in 2007 but if I'm not mistaken it was inspected by D-Box and given another year warranty. The actuator is actually their Odyssey XL line and designed for platform use. So different than the ebay auction. It may have actually been a DEMO system that D-Box lent out to a high-end store.




I wasn't looking for free service on the unit, but I thought the $1,000 repair fee was a hefty charge and plus given my situation of not having it officially installed in the theater, that it might have some weight. I've only found 2 or 3 people with issues on the forums. 2 of 3 had theirs repaired for free due to manufacturer assembly or something. I've sent the information to D-Box in hopes that they can honor the same for me...but like I said, I never heard back.


It was helpful to see those diagrams of the construction, but not enough to see what might it take to repair them.


GetGray,

I do use Newtek's Lightwave3D for the renders.


craig72,

Thanks for the compliments on the wood work.
 
#1,817 ·
More exciting news.


The carpet is ordered. They are going to double-glue it down because of all the oak it ends up butting up to.


I also started putting the fabric up on the soffit. If you recall, I went through a couple different ideas of trying to get a seamless 45 edge in the corners. I ended up cutting a slot at a 45 in each corner so I could push the fabric up into the soffit and staple it above. So far it's worked as I expected although it takes a bit of time. I'm just hoping I can squeeze the second set of fabric through the same hole.



I'm dealing with 13' pieces of fabric. So to cut it easier, I just folded it in half. My roller "pizza" knife cut right through both pieces without a problem. I start pushing the fabric up through one end and stapling them down. Then draped it to the other end held up with a clamp.



Here you can see the corner seam - sorry it's dark. I lost a few lights during this phase:



I initially cut pie pieces in the fabric where the can lights went...but my holes were too tight with the fabric. So I had to trim the edges. I tried to staple as close to the edge as possible. There's not a lot of play with the can lights rim.







 
#1,818 ·
Mario,


When you attached your 3/4" OSB to the ceiling, did you use any special fasteners? My father in law brought up using washers as extra holding capacity. I don't think I need it but won't hurt either.


I going to end up doing 19/32" OSB as the first layer then 3/4" OSB and finally a layer of 5/8 sheetrock. This should be pretty substantial for soundproofing. I needed the 19/32" first layer to create a channel for the Fios and Cable runs that go through my theater.
 
#1,819 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/22060430


Mario,


When you attached your 3/4" OSB to the ceiling, did you use any special fasteners? My father in law brought up using washers as extra holding capacity. I don't think I need it but won't hurt either.


I going to end up doing 19/32" OSB as the first layer then 3/4" OSB and finally a layer of 5/8 sheetrock. This should be pretty substantial for soundproofing. I needed the 19/32" first layer to create a channel for the Fios and Cable runs that go through my theater.

Hi Larry,


I just used whisper clips/channels and then screws. No washers or anything.


You might need closer spacing (of the clips) if you are doing whisper clips with that extra layer.


I would check with Ted from Sound Proofing though for a definite answer.
 
#1,820 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/22060470


Hi Larry,


I just used whisper clips/channels and then screws. No washers or anything.


You might need closer spacing (of the clips) if you are doing whisper clips with that extra layer.


I would check with Ted from Sound Proofing though for a definite answer.

I decided not to go with the clips and channels. It was pretty expensive to do when I added a layer of 3/4 MDF for the star ceiling. I decided the variance in price from an extra layer of OSB and Green Glue compared to clips/channels wasn't worth it. If I wasn't doing the star ceiling and the extra weight that it brings I would have probably did the clips/channels


And half serious, I had a dream of my theater ceiling falling on me and my wife because the clips let go
 
#1,821 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/22060676


I decided not to go with the clips and channels. It was pretty expensive to do when I added a layer of 3/4 MDF for the star ceiling. I decided the variance in price from an extra layer of OSB and Green Glue compared to clips/channels wasn't worth it. If I wasn't doing the star ceiling and the extra weight that it brings I would have probably did the clips/channels


And half serious, I had a dream of my theater ceiling falling on me and my wife because the clips let go

With the sub you went with you might have been better building a bunker out of concrete.
That thing is gonna bring down the house.


Hopefully my wife doesn't read the part about the ceiling falling because of the clips.


I can say having that OSB layer was awesome...especially with all the moulding I put up. I'm not too anxious to do the 6x6 foyer which I didn't put that extra OSB layer. It'll be especially difficult with fabric on the walls trying to find studs.


You might just put a little PL Premium in between some of the layers to give it that extra hold if you are worried. Although, you may check with Ted to see if the dampens the effects of the Green Glue.
 
#1,822 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcascio /forum/post/22060969


With the sub you went with you might have been better building a bunker out of concrete.
That thing is gonna bring down the house.


Hopefully my wife doesn't read the part about the ceiling falling because of the clips.


I can say having that OSB layer was awesome...especially with all the moulding I put up. I'm not too anxious to do the 6x6 foyer which I didn't put that extra OSB layer. It'll be especially difficult with fabric on the walls trying to find studs.


You might just put a little PL Premium in between some of the layers to give it that extra hold if you are worried. Although, you may check with Ted to see if the dampens the effects of the Green Glue.

The Seaton Sub is really a beast...I'm trying to convince myself I need another 1 or 2
Maybe in 2.5 years after I get my MBA


I thought about the PL as well, but you're right I have to check with Ted first. I'll be ordering 4 pails of Green Glue so I intend to do a triple layer on the ceiling.
 
#1,823 ·
Mario,


Since you have the mini room after your theater door, are you doing anything to soundproof the door?
 
#1,824 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/22062071


Mario,


Since you have the mini room after your theater door, are you doing anything to soundproof the door?

Larry,


I'm just treating the door to the theater with products from The SoundProofing Company. I'll be installing the automatic door bottom and the door seals.


If I need to I can always add treatment to the second door from the bar area into the foyer.
 
#1,825 ·
Finally finished up the soffit fabric. That was abit painful. I took all the light fixtures down and cleaned them up to get rid of the dust.


One tip I can pass on when installing fabric of this length and without an edge to wrap around is to staple about foot at a time. Staple on one edge pulling length-wise. Then staple the other side pulling width-wise. Initially I was just pulling length-wise when stapling both sides and later noticed the material was sagging in the middle a bit. I was able to stretch and add more staples to clean it up...but better to do it right the first time.




The corners ended up turning out really nice so I won't have to add any fabric covered boards to hide staples which was my initial goal.


Next step is to pick up all the soffit moulding, rip down, then prime and paint so I can hang that. That should just about wrap up all cutting in the room and the priming begins.


I've got a bit more sanding to do and then the final clean up.
 
#1,826 ·
The soffit looks great, Mario!


I don't envy you with all of that wood to prep, sand, etc.. It's going to look amazing when you finish, though.
 
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