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The ch.14 "Fire Power" Theater

39K views 343 replies 49 participants last post by  Larry M 
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#52 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/22060441


So I got my first quote back for sheetrock...

$4,250


Yeah just a tad bit more than I was expecting
and I have to buy all the screws, tape, mud, etc...This was strictly labor only
What's your square footage? I just got my 1100sq ft basement done several months ago for $2500 and that's including drywall, hung, taped, mud and entire basement primed. You definitely need to shop around. The guy quoted me $16 a sheet ($8 hung and $8 taped). If I remember correctly he used 85-90 sheets.
 
#53 ·
I had about 1600 sf (50 sheets) installed last month, which included hanging, taping, mudding & texture.


Quote 1: $5,500 ($110/sheet or $3.43/sf)

Quote 2: $2,600 ($52/sheet or $1.62/sf)

Quote 3: $2,100 ($42/sheet or 1.31/sf)


I went with quote 3 and it took a total of 115 man hours over 7 days (2-3 guys per day)

-2 1/2 days to hang

-1 day for tape/corner bead

-2 1/2 days mudding/sanding

-1 day sanding/texture/cleanup


Assuming materials were in the $600 range, the guys wound up making about $13/hr. You would have to pay me a lot more than that to do the work they did.
 
#54 ·
Economy must be rebounding if people are charging rates like that.
 
#55 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor /forum/post/22060687


So, there will be more quotes, then?

Yeah I had one guy here today and I will call several more!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadez336 /forum/post/22060861

What's your square footage? I just got my 1100sq ft basement done several months ago for $2500 and that's including drywall, hung, taped, mud and entire basement primed. You definitely need to shop around. The guy quoted me $16 a sheet ($8 hung and $8 taped). If I remember correctly he used 85-90 sheets.

Sq ft of the basement is about 800 sq ft and the scary thing you can knock about 75-100 for the bathroom and storage room. I purchased 109 sheets considering I would want some extra for the bathroom + waste + possibly another layer on the theater ceiling

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman /forum/post/22060978


I had about 1600 sf (50 sheets) installed last month, which included hanging, taping, mudding & texture.


Quote 1: $5,500 ($110/sheet or $3.43/sf)

Quote 2: $2,600 ($52/sheet or $1.62/sf)

Quote 3: $2,100 ($42/sheet or 1.31/sf)


I went with quote 3 and it took a total of 115 man hours over 7 days (2-3 guys per day)

-2 1/2 days to hang

-1 day for tape/corner bead

-2 1/2 days mudding/sanding

-1 day sanding/texture/cleanup


Assuming materials were in the $600 range, the guys wound up making about $13/hr. You would have to pay me a lot more than that to do the work they did.
Maybe I should fly your guys up to NJ...might cost me less. I already spent about $1,000 on drywall

Quote:
Originally Posted by willscam /forum/post/22061152


Economy must be rebounding if people are charging rates like that.

Yeah I nearly fell out of my seat reading the e-mail. I wrote back what would be the cost if I supplied the screws, tape, mud, etc and they wrote back "That is the labor only price"
 
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#56 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/22061973


Yeah I had one guy here today and I will call several more!




Sq ft of the basement is about 800 sq ft and the scary thing you can knock about 75-100 for the bathroom and storage room. I purchased 109 sheets considering I would want some extra for the bathroom + waste + possibly another layer on the theater ceiling



Maybe I should fly your guys up to NJ...might cost me less. I already spent about $1,000 on drywall




Yeah I nearly fell out of my seat reading the e-mail. I wrote back what would be the cost if I supplied the screws, tape, mud, etc and they wrote back "That is the labor only price"

Seems excessive.
 
#57 ·
Wow, that seems really high!! I have approx. 1100 sqft to finish in my basement and I plan to just have someone in to mud/tape/texture (ceiling). Was hoping to be around $1K-$1.3K for just that. I purchased the drywall and will hang it myself.
 
#58 ·
Looks like this is going to be a great build.. subscribing.


Love the tools list - never saw that before, nice touch
.


Knowing how anal I am, (in my future build) I'll probably end up doing the drywall myself and regret it throughout the whole process.. until it is complete, then I will be happy. I just did a bathroom floor for the first time (some sub-floor rot and complete tiling), and throughout the whole process my knees and back were yelling.. what the hell are you doing?!?!?! But now that its done, I am pleased with the result and I have another skill added in my quiver of experiences..
 
#59 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/22056495


Any plumbing experts out there? Here is the plumbing for my bar and future bathroom area. Any advice is more than welcomed

Hi Larry, in examining the photos there are a few corrections I would recommend.


In photo #1 & #2, if I am understanding correctly, you will have a bathroom group discharging from the left towards the tee. On the right of the tee is the dry vent directly up to the attic.


If that is correct, you cannot connect the vent like this. There is fancy code language for it, but plain english works best. What may happen is the waste pipe gets obstructed between the tee and the basement floor, causing fun stuff to back up in the pipe. The backup will progress to the right of the tee into the vent. After the obstruction is cleared, the bathroom group will flush out the pipe to the left of the tee. However, all that fun stuff remains to the right of the tee, and you therefore have no vent for the lower level and no way to clear it (without getting on the roof)


Better to service the future bathroom group with a separate 3" waste and tie in below the bar sink.


It's hard to tell but I think all the piping is 2"?


There are a few differences in permitted fittings for drainage when you jump to 3". Sanitary tees and 1/4 bends cannot be used in some of the ways you have used them if they're 3" (fine for 2" and smaller).


Tim
 
#60 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim /forum/post/22063790


Hi Larry, in examining the photos there are a few corrections I would recommend.


In photo #1 & #2, if I am understanding correctly, you will have a bathroom group discharging from the left towards the tee. On the right of the tee is the dry vent directly up to the attic.


If that is correct, you cannot connect the vent like this. There is fancy code language for it, but plain english works best. What may happen is the waste pipe gets obstructed between the tee and the basement floor, causing fun stuff to back up in the pipe. The backup will progress to the right of the tee into the vent. After the obstruction is cleared, the bathroom group will flush out the pipe to the left of the tee. However, all that fun stuff remains to the right of the tee, and you therefore have no vent for the lower level and no way to clear it (without getting on the roof)


Better to service the future bathroom group with a separate 3" waste and tie in below the bar sink.


It's hard to tell but I think all the piping is 2"?


There are a few differences in permitted fittings for drainage when you jump to 3". Sanitary tees and 1/4 bends cannot be used in some of the ways you have used them if they're 3" (fine for 2" and smaller).


Tim

Hi Tim,


Yes it is all 2" PVC throughout. I did make one change since I posted this in the bathroom location. It isn't what your brought up but figured I would post anyway. This is the stub out for the sink which will be to the left



I'm getting confused when you say "Better to service the future bathroom group with a separate 3" waste and tie in below the bar sink."


I don't have the bathroom planned out yet (2-3 years from now) but I was guessing the waste from the toilet would be 3" pipe underground directly routed to the ejector pit with the shower being tied in before it goes into the put. The sink would be tied into the bar's waste line that comes running through the bathroom and eventually tie in underground to the shower. The vent from the sink would connect to where I have the stub out in the picture above.


For the toilet vent I was imagining something like this: a 3" waste tied directly to the ejector pit, with a 3" Y with that has a connection coming out of the concrete with another Y with a cleanout then reduced to a 2" running vertically to the 2" vent pipe I have have hanging by the zip tie in this picture



Something like this except the cleanout would be above the concrete and there wouldn't be a sink waste line connected to it. (I think this makes it a dry vent then?)


or
 
#61 ·
Ah, I got ya. When you said, "the PVC that goes left head about 15' - 20' to the future bathroom" I thought the future bathroom was on the first floor. Now I see you mean that is the future vent for the basement bathroom (which is why I was curious about the 2", which as you know wouldn't work for a WC)


If that is all vent piping, then it looks good



Figure 2 that you attached depicts a vent stack and is not something I would refer to.


If I am understanding your plan, it sounds like the future bathroom will work as you describe. Between the lav vent and the sump vent you may not need any more vents if your jurisdiction allows horizontal wet venting.


Sorry for confusing the matter.


Tim
 
#62 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim /forum/post/22064244


Ah, I got ya. When you said, "the PVC that goes left head about 15' - 20' to the future bathroom" I thought the future bathroom was on the first floor. Now I see you mean that is the future vent for the basement bathroom (which is why I was curious about the 2", which as you know wouldn't work for a WC)


If that is all vent piping, then it looks good



Figure 2 that you attached depicts a vent stack and is not something I would refer to.


If I am understanding your plan, it sounds like the future bathroom will work as you describe. Between the lav vent and the sump vent you may not need any more vents if your jurisdiction allows horizontal wet venting.


Sorry for confusing the matter.


Tim

No problem on the confusion, it makes total sense now!

Thanks for joining the thread! You made me think about the bathroom some more and now it is documented on the internet and not some random piece of paper in my house that is bound to get lost.


I'm going to glue up my PVC connections and call the town plumbing inspector to come in the next few weeks. Hopefully I can check off this round of fun



Are you good with electrical too? I plan to build my soffits this weekend and start my electrical
I have about 1,000 ft of Romex split between 14-2, 14-3, and 12-2 so I'll be hopefully posting more progress.


Actually I do have another question:

The ejector pit cover has a female threaded opening for I assume the vent line. Do I cement the threaded male PVC adapter to the PVC running vertically? I ask because how the heck do I unscrew it later when it needs to come off?
 
#63 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/22064547


Actually I do have another question:

The ejector pit cover has a female threaded opening for I assume the vent line. Do I cement the threaded male PVC adapter to the PVC running vertically? I ask because how the heck do I unscrew it later when it needs to come off?

Well that was an easy answer, looks like another trip to HD to pick up one of these
2" PVC Union I wonder if I can use a rubber one?
 
#64 ·
Absolutely you can install a union. They make them with glue fittings so you just glue it on. Look for "S x S".


On the discharge side you need a check valve and a full port shutoff valve. It would go pit-->check- valve->full port valve.


The check is usually removable, so no union required on the discharge. Look at Home Depot sku 100180191.


Common sense reason is you need to be able to shut the valve and remove the check for servicing without sewage coming out of the pipe.


Tim
 
#65 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim /forum/post/22065518


Absolutely you can install a union. They make them with glue fittings so you just glue it on. Look for "S x S".


On the discharge side you need a check valve and a full port shutoff valve. It would go pit-->check- valve->full port valve.


The check is usually removable, so no union required on the discharge. Look at Home Depot sku 100180191.


Common sense reason is you need to be able to shut the valve and remove the check for servicing without sewage coming out of the pipe.


Tim

Thanks Tim,


This is what I was planning on the waste side
Zoeller 30-0048 Ironically they sell one with a clear check valve...now I want to know what crazy person would want a clear check valve...maybe on a sump pump but no way on a sewage ejector



This is the pump I am going with
Zoeller M-267


Once I close that basin up...I don't want to open it ever again


Not sure which high water alarm I will go with, but right now I am planning Zoeller A-Pak
 
#67 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim /forum/post/22065605


Looks good. Zoeller is a quality manufacturer.

You know what is entertaining...


When you close the ball valve on your sump pump and forget to tighten the check valve and then testing the sump pump by pooring buckets of water in it



Yeah those sump pumps push a lot of water real fast
 
#68 ·
New tool added to the list

FastCap 3rd Hand Support System 57-to-144-Inches Link


I've been wanting this for a while but finally pulled the trigger late last night when I was reading Spaceman's thread and saw this



Even though his tool cost $4.82 and worked perfectly fine, I'll find a lot of use with this for putting up long runs of crown molding, installing cabinets, and several other items where I have said I wish I had someone here to help.
 
#69 ·
Next tool on the list is probably a drywall lift. I'm expecting the guy on Thursday to call me today or Tuesday. When I hear his ridiculous # I will order the lift
 
#71 ·
Well I spent about 11 hours in the basement today...sad to report I finished half of a soffit.


Building a soffit around HVAC trunks is such a difficult job. I'll probably spend the good part of tomorrow on it as well.
 
#72 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/22068620


Well I spent about 11 hours in the basement today...sad to report I finished half of a soffit.

Don't get discouraged, the silent lurkers here are all rooting for you..
 
#74 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty /forum/post/22075625


Don't get discouraged, the silent lurkers here are all rooting for you..
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 /forum/post/22075665


That sounds like good progress to me!

Thanks guys! I'll post up pics of the "Rocket Soffit" tonight


I finished up the soffit on Sunday, cleaned up my pile of wood. I'm shocked to see that after 5 months I still have about 15 good pieces of 10 footers, and about 8-10 good 8 footers. Total bad lumber is at about 20-25 pieces which is about 10% of my purchase so right in line with expectations.


I've got some odds and ends to go with framing (fireblocking, door header)plus the soffits in the theater and bar but those should be a little easier.


On Monday I started electrical. It really made my weekend finally getting to it. I was hoping to get most of it done but I got a good amount started so that is exciting. I'm going to try and get 1-2 hours a night in on electrical with hopes of finishing it in about 3 weeks.


I need 3 weeks because I'll run some electric through the bar and theater soffits and I won't have my help from my father in law for a little while.
 
#75 ·
I present to you the Rocket Soffit...2 days and 1 thumb later








 
#76 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M /forum/post/22077981


I present to you the Rocket Soffit...2 days and 1 thumb later


Thanks for not posting in gruesome injury photos...
 
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