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Posts by rdalcanto

Now that I fixed the oversaturation problem, I wish I could change my vote. Turns out that by switching from component to HDMI on my HDTV cable box, all my problems went away. I could not figure out how the reviews could have been so glowing, when my image was SSOO red. Now that I'm HDMI all the way, I have to say I'm very pleased with this projector. The lack of DI, and the brightness, and 3D pop makes me smile every time!
VERY INTERESTING!!!!!!!!!!!!! First, decreasing offset of red to -15, directly affected the greyscale, and lowered it from 99% to 90-92%, depending on IRE. The advantage to using that over gamma C, is that blue and green stay more constant. HOWEVER, even MORE interesting, was the simple test I did with my DVR. I switched from Component, where the faces were WAY too red when the offset was zero, gamma Normal, to HDMI and THERE WAS SUDDENLY NO OVERSATURATION...
No projector will make a non-1080 signal look razor sharp. Get an HD-DVD or Bluray player and you will see a huge difference. When I got my RS-1, the first thing I looked at was American Idol. I believe it is a 720p broadcast. I didn't see a big difference between the RS-1 and my Panny 900U. Then I put in Flyboys Bluray disc, and my jaw hit the floor. RAZOR sharp! Rick
Too tired to play much more, but I went back to Gamma Normal, User 1, where I have the dead perfect grey scale, and then used offset to reduce red. Faces looked VERY good. I will have to check greyscale again tomorrow with the offset setting to see if offset is changing the greyscale....
O.k., I used HCFR and my Spyder 2 and discovered some interesting things. With the Spyder aimed at the projector, the grey scale was perfect on Gamma Normal. Facing my Optima Greywolf, I had accessive blue coming back. I went to User1 and quickly got a perfect greyscale on Gamma Normal facing the screen, with RGB levels of 99-100 across every IRE, and the Delta E was 0 or 1 from 40IRE to 100 (the Spyder is no good below 40). I put on some high def programming, and had the...
O.k., I used HCFR and my Spyder 2 and discovered some interesting things. With the Spyder aimed at the projector, the grey scale was perfect on Middle and Gamma Normal. Facing my Optima Greywolf, I had accessive blue coming back. I went to User1 and quickly got a perfect greyscale on Gamma Normal facing the screen, with RGB levels of 99-100 across every IRE, and the Delta E was 0 or 1 from 40IRE to 100 (the Spyder is no good below 40). I put on some high def...
If colors can be accurate on a $1000 projector, why can't they be accurate on a $6K projector? I can understand needing an external processor to stretch the image, but for acceptable color.... ?!?
Too much other stuff in the calibration thread. What gamma setting are you using? I found that color saturation was more neutral with gamma C. (Faces don't look sunburned). Can anyone explain how gamma effects color? Is it possible that JVC chose a different color response with that gamma setting? Perhaps folks should comment on their theater. I have light colored walls, white ceiling but a black sheet above the screen that extends out about 6 feet. Optima Grey...
My new RS-1 is very quiet in normal. I sit 3-4 feet below it, shelf mounted. But in high altitude mode, the noise gets much louder. It doesn't sound like more air flow. It sound like vibration or something. I don't know if I have a defective unit. Can you low altitude guys try the high altitude setting and let me know what it sounds like to you? Thanks, Rick
I just played with the projector a little. In normal mode, non-high altitude, the projector is so quiet I can barely hear it. When I switch to "high altitude" there is a mechanical, vibrating type noise, like I just powered up a little gas powered motor. HUGE difference in volume. I'm at 5,000 feet, and my basement is always in the 60s (usually low 60s). If running cool air over the bulb, do I really need to be in high altitude mode? (My Panny AE900U in high altitude...
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