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Posts by phelmers

There's also a Nirvislist group at Yahoo which you could search - here's the link: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/nirvislist/. - Peter
Another option is to use "split loom" tubing. Here's a picture of how I used it in my system. Split loom cabling is available from many vendors including Directron and AllElectronics (where I got mine). - Peter
IVB: It is an aluminum case. I bought a 92mm hole saw set (for use with an electric drill) for the case top plus I had a 2" hole saw in my toolbox that I used for the bottom holes. If you google around you can find lots of sites comparing case mods using hole saws, dremel drills, or scroll saws. In my experience the hole saws work best for fans. - Peter
I cut a series of holes in the bottom of my Cooler Master ATC-610 case and also cut two 92mm vent holes for fans in the top. It stays reasonably cool (38 degrees C currently). I have a series of pictures of this system at my website. - Peter
Here are some other suppliers of FM transmitters: Ramsey Electronics has a variety of FM kits here. North Country Radio also has kits here. C. Crane has one (non kit) here. There's a non-kit USB based FM Transmitter on Ebay and here and here... These all appear to be the same but have different company names. Prices seem to vary between $50 and $100 so shop around. Hope this helps - Peter
There is also a new series of Epson inkjet printers that can print directly on CD and DVD's. These include the R200, R300 and R800 models. The R200 sells for less than $100. - Peter
What I did on my Cooler Master ATC-610 case, was to shorten the power supply leads to the required lengths. I did this by measuring what length I needed and then cutting out the excess length about four inches or so from the plugs and soldering the plug wire to the now shortened power supply lead. I then taped the splice joint and moved on to the next wire. Finally, I covered up the wires with split-loom tubing to make everything look nice. Unneeded plugs were just...
Actually, the UA-1A is stereo for both input and output. I probably should have said "audio inputs"... - Peter
To add an additional audio input to my HTPC, I bought an external Edirol UA-1A USB audio adapter for around $75. (There also are other similar USB products, depending on your needs and budget). The UA-1A works fine for me, though. - Peter
Here are two others I've tried: Replicator from Karenware which is freeware but has a so-so (IMHO) user interface and, DirSync from Archersoft which I've recently switched to because I find it easier to deal with. DirSync is shareware and costs around $20 - Peter
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