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Posts by Jay1

I broke them in with a "bass mechanix" cd for about 30 min, followed by 20 min of 20hz at xmax, and a 10 min cool down before measuring. It's pretty normal for manufacturer specs to be off, as long as they aren't completely out of the ballpark it isn't a huge deal. I'm just glad it still works in the similarly sized small boxes. I haven't seen any 3rd party testing for the 12, but I imagine it will have similar results to the 10"
This thread has been about the HF 15 vs the HO 18... The 15 is only $23 more then the 12", goes deeper and louder. Requires a bigger box of course.
The rustoleum cans with wide angle tips, which when used with a can handle work pretty closely to a gun. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002EQEE82/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1375397089&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY190 The regular tipped cans just don't allow enough overlap, which makes even coats very difficult.
Looks like I missed out on the fun. I did find this bit rather amusing though...
Not sure why you think you need banana plugs? Just twist the binding posts open, insert bare wire (you'll need to strip off the insulation), and tighten the posts back down. You will just connect your big speakers to the front left/right binding posts, and put your receiver in stereo mode. If you want surround sound you will need to connect the smaller speakers to the surround left/right channels, and position them properly. All of your speakers should be positioned like...
Very true, the top end on both of those horns is about 10 db lower, so equalizing flat gives you a pretty decent amount of head room, and much lower distortion.
If you get a sub setup that includes EQ functions, like a behringer NU DSP amp, or add a MiniDSP to any other amp (only $105), absolutely NOT needed to overspend on a receiver just for a very minor EQ job on your subs.
Are those two waveguides using the DNA-150? I'm a little surprised by the distortion rise below 3 khz from both tests. This thread is going to be epic, awesome effort!
Clamp and glue, or screw and glue. As long as there is pressure keeping the panels together with glue applied, it will work. The glue bond line is stronger then the wood, glue some scraps together and see what happens when you try to separate them. Make sure you're adjusting for squareness when gluing, it is very easy to have things tweak out of 90 during the glue up.
Those boxes are a really good deal, and very solid... If you can get a box from a 4 x 8 sheet of wood, then you can save a little money, but is it worth it? It's also going to depend on if you want something sized differently then what you can get from the flat packs.
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