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Posts by skriefal

How about something like the paperback book-sized Topping TP21? Run the analog outs from your TV (if it has them) to the TP21, put the TP21 on max volume, and use the TV's remote to adjust volume. Leave the amp on and stuff it in your TV stand behind other components/photos/etc. If your TV doesn't have analog outs then add a small DAC. Those are anywhere from $20 to $100, depending on whether you need Dolby Digital decoding in the DAC.
33-rpm and 45-rpm are merely the speed at which the record must be played back. 7-inch diameter records are most commonly pressed for playback at 45-rpm, and 10/12-inch diameter records for playback at 33-rpm. But either speed can be used with a record of any size. I checked Fallen Empires at a few vendors, and none of them mentioned anything about the LP being pressed at 45-rpm. So it's probably a 33-rpm record. If it were 45-rpm then the vendors usually state that...
It may be related to whether the TV continues to send an active but silent SPDIF bitstream to your B&K receiver when it loses the HDMI signal from the cable box, or whether it interrupts the SPDIF bitstream when that happens (causing the B&K to lose the incoming audio stream temporarily). Combine that with the B&K's apparently poor reaction to the loss of the SPDIF bitstream, and you get what you have here. Just a guess of course. If this is what is happening then the...
They still seem to be in production, or at least remained in production for some time after the introduction of the '2' series. I have a pair of recently-acquired SP-BS41s with a June 2013 build date.
If the cable box manufacturer used 1/4-inch legs then that's almost certainly because their testing found that 1/4-inch was sufficient space to pull in air below the unit. If there is a problem here, it'll be the limited open space above the box. Usually you want at least a few inches of free space above any electronic component that generates much heat. If this cable box does generate much heat -- which is likely if it's a DVR -- then it'll cook.
Is there a few inches of space above the cable box for air to flow freely? If not then you may have reliability issues with the cable box. Those usually have air entering from the bottom and leaving through the top.
That's B.S. It was to simplify things for themselves. You may have guessed that. No "native" setting = less testing time = less development cost.
The 65W850A was just released a couple months ago. It's unlikely that it would be replaced so quickly.
Correction: The 65W850a has an option in its Settings menu labeled Headphone/Audio Out. This looks like it can be used to change the headphone out to a standard line-level output. You'll need a 1/8-inch to RCA adapter plug or cable, of course. Those are available for a few dollars at Radio Shack, eBay, and elsewhere.
I'm using the following settings on my 65W850A. These are from a quick eyeball review only -- no calibration software or hardware was used. I expect that I'll tweak these over time. Under Settings > Preferences > Eco: Light Sensor: On Scene Select: Auto (24p Sync) Auto (24p Sync) switches between Standard and Cinema modes depending on content. With my set up I get Cinema mode when watching a Blu-ray movie, and Standard mode for television. Picture...
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