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Posts by kriktsemaj99

I doubt it's defective, but HDMI Control is hit or miss depending on the particular combination of components. The order in which you turn things on can be important. It's usually best to turn on the display first, then the receiver, then the source. And when things don't work are you sure you can't fix it by just changing to another source (e.g. to Tuner) then back again, without physically unplugging any cables? A good universal remote (e.g. Harmony) is the common...
I think the (poorly written) doc is just trying to say that the cable should have a DB-9 female connector, since the unit itself obviously has a male DB-9.
It is in the manual. See page 102 to get into the ADVANCED SETUP menu, then choose INIT (page 103).
I sent you a PM. If there are no problems then I'll release it for everyone.
You can't use a separate amp directly with the 675, you need the 775 (or higher) with pre-outs. But don't assume you need a separate amp. Make sure all speakers are set to SMALL, use a good powered sub, and you should be fine unless your front speakers are particularly hard to drive.
Here's a link to the new YNCA protocol that's used for both RS-232 and TCP/IP. The document also mentions the type of cable (null modem) and baud rate etc... http://thinkflood.com/media/manuals/yamaha/Yamaha-YNCA-Receivers.pdfWhile experimenting, make sure the receiver is on and use a command such as volume down or mute. Don't start by trying to turn the receiver on because that can be a special case.
Cable TV is notorious for lipsync problems. It varies by channel and show, and you'll never have it perfect all the time. The best way to play with manual lipsync is through the web setup interface (type IPaddress/setup into a web browser). But the strange thing is it gives you more places to change the manual delay than you do through the on-screen GUI. There are separate analog and HDMI adjustments, which aren't documented in the manual. But by entering a large number...
Yamaha supports height channels at front and rear, which they call "presence" channels. But they don't support any form of wide channels (located between front and surround speakers). Once you have rear surrounds, you can locate the side surrounds at the 90 degree position (or even slightly forward of that) to fill in the gap between fronts and rear surrounds. That way you might not miss the wide channels.
You might have been looking at the zone 2 tone controls which go to +/- 10 in steps of 2. Main zone bass/treble controls are limited to +/-6 (in steps of 0.5).If you use manual EQ then by setting one filter for each front channel to the lowest frequency (31.3Hz) and the smallest Q factor (0.5, meaning the widest filter), you'll basically get another bass control that you can boost up to 6dB (on top of the bass tone control).But if you feel like you need to boost the bass...
Can you show the Flat results? They would be more likely to give a flat response, especially at the higher frequencies where Natural has a built in roll-off.
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