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Posts by DonoMan

Personally, I won't touch any audio gear that gives so few technical specs as that does. It does not touch on the amp itself in the specs at all other than 4 watts, but what impedance is that at? I still have no idea if I need to recommend a circuit to bring the voltage of this thing down because I need to either know the rail voltage of the unit and/or at least the rated impedance for that 4 watts (and VERY preferably the distortion level at that (better: and more) output...
I'd recommend moving away from H/K. Their feature set is just so awful compared to Denon or Onkyo and they always seem to have more issues than other brands too. The previous post mentioning how HK still uses Faroudja, when several better manufacturers moved beyond them years ago. They also have inferior auto-calibration. And the $1000 (Yes, I know street price is a few hundred lower.. woo hoo.. still a major ripoff) AVR-3650 has no pre-outs?! Hell, the back of that thing...
Yes. You may even be able to run the output of that amp straight into the input of another amp if the voltage level is close enough (it can still be done otherwise, but may need additional steps) . What amps are we talking about specifically? Links to each would be helpful.
Of course, but it is still then independent from the load. Personally I do believe in adhering to specs as closely as possible, and in buffers around cables. Yes, he'll probably say the power amp is its own buffer, and that's not false, but I don't generally like to put audio stuff in parallel unless it's the same - I HAVE heard distortion using just a voltage divider on a power amp output when in parallel with a speaker on that output. I have mentioned several times that...
Does that mean you have 4" for the cables behind the unit, or is that 4" at the front of the cabinet, or...? If not at the back, then maaaybe IF you have low profile connectors on all of the cables that connect to it. With the connectors/cables I use with mine, I need a good 3-4" for them in addition to the receiver's depth. I use banana plugs; getting rid of just those would probably save an extra inch or so...
Get the 2212 if you don't care about preouts. Get the 2213 if you want to pay more money for the same thing. Get the 3312 if you want preouts, and the 3313 if you want to pay more. (Yes, this is quite the simplification, but should be accurate for most, even those of this site... if you want to see the data and draw your own conclusion then take jd's advice)
Yeah, well, I build amplifiers as well, and have researched quite a bit on forums like DIYAudio, HTGuide, this one, DIYMobileAudio, etc. I also repair (generally) car audio amps. I didn't say that gain is never in the power amp section. Clearly the gear you have worked with is not the same as what I have worked with. Can you claim that every amplifier has gain in the amp stage? Because it is, at the very least, reasonably common to be in the preamp stage. Perhaps I did...
Check out Chrome/FF extensions "The Tracktor" (for Amazon) and "PriceBlink" for other online shopping sites (easy price comparisons though obviously doesn't support every single store).Sorry for the tangent otherwise. And now back to your regularly scheduled programming...
Never, ever use TV speakers when you have an alternative. Keep the TV volume at a moderate level all the time but the TV speakers off. Don't adjust the TV volume. Only adjust the receiver for both volume and mute.
There are tutorials for repairing car audio amps at www.bcae1.com - most of the info would be the same for home audio amps (AVRs will obviously be more complicated and include a bunch of stuff that isn't discussed on that site). It teaches a lot of basic electronics and how to use some of the equipment too. First thing to look at is the electrolytic capacitors to see if any are burnt or leaking or bulging. Also check everything for a burnt look or smell, particularly the...
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