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Posts by rombullterrier

That went pretty well!
Just tell her that the crazy SOBs have 4 of them.
Maybe MK needs 4!
Are you sure that when you are running two cabinets, your amp is delivering a comparable signal to each cabinet vs. the single cabinet setups? If not, before I did anything drastic, I would borrow another amp and try two cabinets, each powered with its own amp, just to be sure that amp limitations are not a factor. Also, it seems to me (based on my own experience and anecdotal reports of others) that there may be some incremental gain in performance by wiring each driver...
[quote=forin;18919673]Tony123 Thanks for the response. I am using 1 1/4 inch machine screws (the ones mentioned on page 1). I have the removeable gasket touching the wood frame, while setting driver on top of it. I might be able to go a smidge tighter, but currentlty there is maybe 1-2mm of screw to work with on the back of the frame, which is not enough to work with. I can always buy 1 1/2 inch screws, but I wanted to know other peoples experience with mounting...
Both Niles and Russound make standalone 12v triggered outlets. I am using 2 of each to power Crown power amps. I bought the Niles versions off of ebay for a good price when I couldn't find the Russounds. I think they are rated around 10A or so. The Niles versions are also nice in that they have their own power supplies.
I have 4 DTS-10s running in a 15 x 18 room, each powered with Crown xti-4000, one driver per channel. I haven't spent that much time dialing them in since I am moving to a different house in a few weeks. I have all four set on the short end (mouths up off the floor) behind my screen with two mouths-together in the back and the other two in front and spread far enough apart to clear the mouths of the back two. When I had two, I had them on the long ends with the mouths...
Yes. I finished building the second pair, but it will be a week or two until I can get them in place and dialed in. Overkill? Yes. Fun? Yes. Thanks again to the folks at Danley.
I mentioned possibly using the screw-type speakon panel connectors in lieu of the solder-type. I did this and it saved me some hassle; however, the screw-type appear to have a lot of room for air passage, so once the wires were attached, I filled the back of the connector and around it with silicone to prevent any air leaks. I would suggest this to anyone thinking about using those connectors. On speaker wire, Monoprice has a 100 ft spool of 4 conductor 12 gauge...
I used the solder-type panel connector for the first 2 DTS-10s I built, and thought they were a hassle to solder. I am building 2 more DTS-10s and this time I bought the screw-type panel connector, which I think is going to be much easier to install. The cable connectors on my first set were the right-angle screw-type, and they seemed to work fine. So you might want to consider the screw-type panel connectors as a possible alternative.
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