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Posts by KewlK

It's more likely that some specs of dust or lint have settled on the backside of the screen. There are two circular access ports on either side of the cabinet. Remove the one which is in closest proximity to the specs. Grab a small micro-fiber cloth. Reach in and gently wipe the contaminated areas. If that does not fix the issue, then the contamination is either on the large projection mirror or the lense. Be extremely careful while wiping the mirror or lense. The mirror...
It needs the illumination adjustment. Refer to section 4-28 of the SM. Two small knobs on the side of the light engine.
I see that you likely enjoy working on tedious soldering projects, ditto. What you suggest is possible but would be very difficult for even someone with expert soldering skills to perform. He is better off just buying a replacement blue PhlatLight.BTW...currently in the process of mending several extremely fragile/finely traced flexible ribbon cables. They are from a couple of vintage Aiwa 'walkman like' cassette players that some n00b had damaged ripping into them. *and...
A seller at a very popular auction site sells used pulls for a fair price.
The outer panel is the lenticular screen while the inner is the fresnel. Image brightness and viewing angles will suffer tremendously without the lenticular and the fresnel is even more delicate. I would first experiment with an acrylic crack sealer before jumping on a new panel purchase.
Deep Color is not supported and unfortunately, although xvYCC is selectable, it was not implemented properly. Don't even try to use it.Technically you should choose RGB Limited for the output. Colors will be more saturated and tend to look more lively under YCbCr 4:4:4 due to slight colorspace misalignment. To stay within spec choose RGB. The eye candy types like their colors to pop and I sympathize with that.
You're welcome it's my pleasure. And hey...time permitting, all of us eventually get old. What is most important is to remain young at heart.
Yes, very good. Now you're getting it. My advice to you, though, is to skip that entire step. I have calibrated this set over a dozen times and assure you that the end result will be identical...whether you plug in new primary values or not. Just leave them at default and you'll be fine. The CCA system is a marvelous thing. Concentrate most of all about getting the grayscale tuned under sRGB. Then target the proper values for the primaries and finally the...
Those terms are neither referring to color nor tint.RGBLowEnd = Bias/Cuts/Offsets (Controls the grayscale color balance and gamma curve from 0 IRE to 50 IRE...which is black to medium gray)RGBHighEnd = Gain or Drives (Controls the grayscale color balance and gamma curve from 50 IRE to 100 IRE...which is medium gray to pure white)In order to conform with the D65 standard, you want an equal mix of each primary color: R=100%/G=100%/B=100% within your grayscale tracking; all...
OK, no. Metering your primaries (RGB) is not the same as "gamut". Gamut refers to the chosen color space to work within (sRGB/Normal/Wide). Don't even bother with Normal. Here is a link to an excellent tutorial explaining exactly what calibration is and how to do it. : http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457 Read it section by section until you fully understand the terminology and procedure. Then, Lee's step by step calibration guide will make complete sense.
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