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Posts by Tempest261

Pure ignorance. I didn't really understand what PCM was, except that the old adage that it shouldn't be used due to a 2.0 downsample over optical. Those days are long-gone w/ HDMI audio. Didn't realize that until very recently.
I didn't realize this. Thanks. Still wondering about what's going on though... and won't I still want DTS for movies?
Hi Everyone, Has anyone plugged a new PS4 into your RX-A3000? I'm running into a strange issue with DTS turned on. Audio in games tends to cut out after about 30 mins of use. If I look at the A3000's OSD, it's flickering between modes. Restarting the PS4 clears up the issue. A3000 is on the latest firmware. Anyone running into a similar issue? Hoping it's just a SW/FW issue on the PS4's part.
I'm having a different but related issue, although while gaming: I'm trying to figure out if I'm running into a SW/FW bug, or I have an issue with my PS4 hardware. If I use optical audio out, and set DTS as the "priority", the audio works for 30+ min or so, but eventually dies completely and/or becomes stuttery (turns on/off rapidly). If I look at my receiver during this time, the OSD is flashing as if it's rapidly detecting surround mode vs. stereo in a ping-pong...
Anyone here in N. San Jose? I am in an apartment complex (3rd floor), and I can't seem to get KNTV whatsoever. Just completely black (0%). Everything else seems to come in nice and strong though. Really bummed as NBC is pretty much all I really wanted, and it happens to be the one channel I CAN'T get. Using a Terk FDTV1A with a Panasonic VT50.
Woooo thanks for doing this AVS!
Seconded. ControlCAL is actually a pretty handy tool for whether you're calibrating or even just trying out a bunch of shared settings. It lets you store a virtually infinite number of settings on your laptop, and it will rapidly input them into the VT50 automatically, upon your selection.
This debate has raged on for a while. In general, it's believed that transferring settings is kind of a waste of time, for the following reasons:1. There is enough panel drift in the first 200+ hours that shifts the picture enough that it's largely recommended to do any calibration work AFTER this period.2. Everybody's set is different. If there was a small enough amount of variance, they would be calibrated out of the factory- at least the THX settings would be near...
It could be a combination of both.
Don't panic- I had some IR from the NBC Olympics logo a while back, but I was able to eliminate it, 100%. I decided to post the links to those posts (documenting the removal) in my sig.In summary, the most effective method seemed to be an all-white slide for several days, to alleviate an issue known as "MgO sputtering", which is 100% reversible. I also believe that just ignoring the problem and watching normal, full-screen content would probably be almost as effective.
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