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Posts by ES_Revenge

Not much on this set really. Note that even if you have the latest firmware, if you go to download an update with the TV itself it will actually download another "new" update. It's actually an update for the Z series at the time (Z5100 I think?). Anyway I have no idea why it does this but it will indeed download the update, however when it goes to install the update it comes back with an error message saying the update is not for this set, which it isn't lol. At least...
Has anyone thought that the vertical banding on this set gets worse with age? Is that even possible? I'm not sure if it's in my head or what but when I bought the set (maybe about 6-8 months ago) I did notice some banding but it was light. However now I'm noticing it a lot more. I'm wondering if it's just me noticing it more or if it's actually getting worse over time. Thoughts? Anyway as for the settings I dunno how you guys can all use 50+ brightness settings, that...
You can get it with a Dr. HDMI but you're also either going to have to have two pairs of glasses that can switch to LL or RR mode (like the Xpand glasses mentioned above), or you'll have to modify (likely permanently) two pairs of other 3D glasses for LL and RR operation. The PS3 3D glasses can switch to LL and RR but not without the IR signals blasted at it, from the PS3DD (or new 4k XBR TV with the feauter) which you don't have.If you want to modify PS3 3D glasses (since...
I thought Impulse was backlight scanning (the picture gets much dimmer) and Clear Plus was interpolation plus scanning?
I never use any motion interpolation nonsense, so don't know that but you can always use a lag test of some sort to find out. Not really sure what you're talking about, about blur though. I never notice any significant blurring and the HX750 seems to have okay response time for a large TV.In this (French) review here, it tested at...
Did you mean FBU board?Why is it called "FBU" anyway, I wonder what that stands for? Seems like "input/output board" might be a better way to describle it from the components it has.A new FBU board is probably extremely hard to find, and a used/salvage one...well it may fail in time all the same I wonder if something(s) just needs to be reflowed on the FBU board? Anyone willing to try out the ol PS3-board-in-the-oven method? LOL. (For those that don't know, this was a...
Yes it seems that's the case. I don't think there's really anything wrong with that though... This is an Energy Star 5.3 qualified TV (or equivalent applicable Euro/overseas standard if you're not in Canada or US) and it consumes only 0.1W while in standby mode. I'm guessing in "off" mode (which is still some form of standby as you can power it back up with the remote) it's even less than that. I'm thinking that with the Energy Star 5.3 qualification, the set uses so...
Relatively speaking no, but the TV weighs in a like 40lbs for a 55"er which is lulz...the plastic is certainly thin on it and even small temp changes can possibly cause expansion/contraction I suppose. As I said it's not just on the HX750--I've heard the same thing about a variety of makes/models. So it might not be a space heater as you say but it still generates heat.Yeah the side power button, btw, turns off the TV almost like the physical "Energy Saving Switch" on...
Yeah I think it may just be the plastic creaking from the heat the set generates when it's on--I've read a few mentions of this on various threads for different TVs. If it's not too loud I wouldn't be worried.
Okay thanks! I'll try #2 once I get an adapter. It has to be an active one though, not a passive one? Hmm looks like an active adapter will run ~$20 whereas a 5450 like thed XFX ONE can be had at around $30...maybe I should just do that and call it a day.If using two cards what do you do just select the 2nd card's HDMI output for audio in the player software settings? And that takes care of it?
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