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Posts by wallijonn

Is there a receiver that can accept wired front speakers and sub woofer (2.1) but also allow wireless speakers for rest of 5.1 or 7.1? In other words, wired 2.1 & wireless 3 or 5?
http://av.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=MODL028892&pathId=1&page=3
Yamaha YHT-S401 - 3 HDMI in, 1 out. $400. If you like a sub woofer. Too bad you want HDMI. The Yamaha YSp-1400 has built in sub-woofers inside the sound bar. Optical/digital in only, though. But I'm also looking at the YSP-2200 for under $800.
0] Reset the TV to default values. There's usually a setting somewhere in the menu system. Change from Demo to Home Viewing.1] Turn off any power saving / eco settings. Select film/movie setting (NOT Sports!), normal colour.2] Set the PS3 to RGB output.3] Insert a high quality widescreen BD movie.5] Look at the black bars.6] If there is dithering (noise) turn down the brightness until it just goes away. This is your max setting for movies and TV viewing.7] Contrast should...
BDs that show 1.85:1 aspect ratios of wide screen movies ruin the movie experience, for me. I want to see all of the film just as it was shown in the theatre. I want the black bars on the top and bottom on my TV. I watch my wide screen movies in "Just" mode instead of 16:9 just to get a little bit more viewing area and angle. I wouldn't mind 4:3 movies being shown in 1.78:1/16:9 mode so long as a slit prcess is used to adjust each scene such that minimal info is lost....
Not everyone has the fastest internet connection possible. We obsess over lag time on our TVs and monitors; will there be any lag time when going to the cloud and back?You already have the disc, so what exactly is being done on/in the cloud? Background level loading can already be done from the disc. Patches can already be installed after the game is installed.The internet is already being used on the PS3 and XBox 360. That isn't the issue. It's the XB1's insistence that...
Update: I believe it may only have 1 Component input. My friend hates the glare so he may return it. He may get a 120HZ LED TV instead. He just wants to pay less than $800 for it. When I told him that what he really wants is a 240HZ model, he balked at the starting prices of ~$1500, which means about $2000 after taxes and extended warranty. Now I'm thinking of buying it - having him return the set, then have them sell it to me for what he paid and getting a 3 year...
Today I saw two LG 60's at Fry Electronics:LG 60PN6500 - 2 HDMI, 1 Component, 1 USB, No NIC. $799LG 60PN5700 - 3 HDMI, 2 Component, 2 USB, NIC & Wireless, ARC, Smart, Backlight, De-judder control. Sale price: $699. Tomorrow it goes back to $999.I made my friend buy the very last one available in the store. In a week's time Fry's sold all 50 allotment. my friend has an LCD 42" which made "Avatar" look horrific - the typical LCD/LED Soap Opera effect.Maybe Costco will have...
I disagree. If you can pack twice the pixels in the same area you should be able to get a better picture: a sharper image, with greater depth, greater gradation of colours, deeper colours, finer detail.But you are right, "most of the world won't get any benefit," just as they see no benefit to BD. Heck, many don't see any benefit to HDTV (other than size) since they see an inferior SD picture when it is displayed on an HD set. But what if 4K makes SD look as good as when...
First off, is the TV mounted against or on the wall? Is the rear of the set at least 12" away from a wall? Next, as you listen to the buzz do you find that it is louder when your ear is listening to the rear of the set? If the answers are "yes," "no," and "yes," then you will probably need some sound absorption material behind the TV set. If you decrease the brightness does the buzzing stop at some point? If it does then that is your max brightness; next adjust contrast...
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