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Posts by maxcooper

That grizzly does look like a great deal. However, I think each track saw system has their own nonstandard tracks, so I would do a lot of research before buying a track from one manufacturer and expecting it to work with the saw from another track system.Edit: I just read that makita and festool tracks are generally compatible, so maybe the grizzly track is more compatible than I thought.-Max
A workbench. A table. A talking unicorn. Cut some aluminum blinds. Made some sawhorses. Cut some ABS pipe to make an acid bath for stripping the zinc off EMT tubing to prepare it for welding. Made a stand for cleaning a pool filter out of 2x4s. Other random home maintenance stuff. It is really useful, and I'm glad I bought it, but I don't use it that much for speaker projects. However, I have used it to cut port tubes and various internal braces for speakers, and it was...
I have that dewalt saw. I have been happy with it, and I've used it a lot for various non-speaker projects, but apart from cutting interior braces to length, I've hardly used it at all for sub and speaker projects. A circular saw with DIY straight edge guide (instructions on YouTube) would be more useful for speaker projects. A router and/or jigsaw are also useful. -Max
Your tritrix builds look really good. Nice work. A SEOS build would be good. I built some econowave Sr speakers to use as pa speakers and I liked them so much that they've been in my living room ever since. Now I am slowly building some seos / dna-360 / AE TD woofer speakers that look nicer to replace them. I built the center, and I really like the way it sounds, I think partly because the dna-360 CD is smoother-sounding than the d220ti. -Max
Here's a whitepaper about the response-smoothing benefits of multiple subs (from a sub manufacturer, yes, but multi-sub measurements from many independent enthusiasts also support the findings in the paper):http://www.harman.com/EN-US/OurCompany/Innovation/Documents/White%20Papers/multsubs.pdfHere's a thread about reference level. As you said, it is 85db with +20db peaks for the speakers, except for the sub (LFE channel), which is +30db...
Yup, continuous 120db is really loud and may damage your hearing in less than a minute. But that's not what we're talking about. I think I got the +30db peaks thing wrong -- THX says its +20db for peaks. So, if you want to listen at a really loud 100db continuous average level, which the occupational health folks say you can do for 15 minutes before you risk possible hearing damage, you need a system that can play 120db to avoid clipping the peaks. That's really loud, but...
The nature of music and movies is that they have peaks that are far louder than the average signal level. So you might be watching a movie or listening to music or a movie at 90db, which is loud but tolerable, and there will be 120db peaks. Your system will sound best if those peaks aren't clipped or distorted by inadequate subs (or speakers).-Max
You are really asking two questions: 1. Do multiple subs help your system produce a flat frequency response in your room? 2. Why do people like to run their subs "hot" (i.e. louder than the rest of the freq spectrum)? Answers: 1. Yes, multiple subs do help your system produce an even freq response in room. Most rooms create dips and peaks in the bass frequency range. Having multiple subs helps to even out the peaks and valleys, giving a flatter frequency response. You...
I thought you had two sources (cable and blu-ray) and need to be able to switch between them. If so, you need 2+ inputs and 1 output.-Max
A vacuum with brush attachment is good for getting the dust off, without marking or damaging the cones or surrounds.
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