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Posts by snowkarver

New work is for construction from scratch, with attachment usually to structural members like joists and studs. After the drywall is up, it's either "old work" or "rework".
Looks like a pretty normal load for one of the bigger console-sized conditioners from Belkin/APC etc. Most have different filter circuits for at least 2-4 of each component type; you'd probably get better filtering by spending on one better unit rather than splitting it over two.
Ah yes, now I understand! You're talking about the Carlon Zip boxes. Good luck with your build.
Hmmm. Almost by definition, all box extensions are rework, since you wouldn't actually be in a situation to need one until some other work buried your original box. I've actually never seen a new construction box extender! (Since in new construction, you'd be able to get the appropriate-depth junction box and mount it forward of the stud wherever you wanted) Slides right between your furring; screws into the existing box.
Generally, the point of doing bias lighting for a panel or CRT is because the field of view isn't sufficient to properly trigger light and dark adaptation in your eyes - i.e. it's more comfortable to watch a 42" screen with 15% backlighting because it doesn't cover enough FOV to overpower the general darkness of the room, so your eyes dilate fully and the image becomes overpowering, washed out, and causes eyestrain. With a FP image at the recommended 30 degrees FOV or...
Remember that sound isolation is different from treating the room for acoustics and reflections. The DD, GG etc is for stopping sound transfer into and out of your room, and if you want to pass on that for whatever reason, that's one thing (I did - there just wasn't much point in our house). The treatment you're describing (1 inch Linacoustic, batting, GOM panels) etc serve a different purpose to improve the listening experience within the room. Now that the room...
Spent two quality evenings this week with a can of semigloss black acrylic paint. Initially, I tried spraying the AV rack and media shelves, but I went through so many cans without getting the layer thickness I was looking for that I switched to a coat of spray primer and two coats of brush-on acrylic with a light sanding in between. It's far from the finest wood finish I've ever achieved, but given that both will barely be visible once loaded up and lit properly, I'm...
Actually, to the OP - being in Toronto, I'm surprised that Paradigm isn't already on your shortlist.
So many ideas in the semi-official Show Us Your Screen Wall thread. Having just framed my own wall out, I suppose I could plug mine too, which is near the end of my build thread. All fabric to be mounted on panel frames and nailed to the framing where access isn't required, and velcroed to it where the speaker equipment is, as Bryan suggested.
Strictly speaking, you shouldn't be running line voltage cable through a low voltage conduit. In addition, assuming the conduit is in the ceiling rather than surface-mounted, equipment power cords aren't certified to be run inside walls either. With that said, I know this is done fairly often with both projectors and panels. Just thought I'd make a note that going this route is against code on two counts.
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