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Posts by SilentJ20

Does anyone have any thoughts as to how this compares to the THT loaded with a 12 (Or the THT LP)? I know it won't quite be up there with a horn with a 15. There are way more reviews of the THT out there, so I'm hoping for a comparison. I was about to pull the trigger on a THT build when I came across this design which uses a much more affordable driver (using the 1260W). I figured it would be a better intro to horn building and what to expect. It will be in a...
This is exactly what was happening. I upped the gains and played the scene back at the same in-room volume and it went just fine. Thanks!
Currently I am running my V765 in full-range stereo mode with pre-amp outs going to a Behringer A500 amp. No other speakers are connected, just using the front R/L preamp RCA outputs to go to the A500. My speakers are a Dayton Classic WMTMW (see my build thread). (also Panasonic Bluray connected with HDMI, RX at -20dB volume, A500 about 50% gain, Amp and RX are on separate 20A circuits) I encounter the problem at movie scenes with high volumes, most recently the end of...
I asked a similar question back in September. Among the responses I had one from Thomas-W, one of the IB sub gurus. He gave the impression that the motors in the Fi IB subs just aren't designed for use in large sealed (I was asking 2.5x VAS, about 900 Liters or 32 cu ft). http://www.avsforum.com/t/1431180/infinite-baffle-vs-large-sealed
As long as you can get the internal volume for the sub close enough, it should be fine. The only issue will be possibly limiting location possibilities. If the box portion is braced well and the shelf is heavy enough, I don't think it will vibrate much at all.
How tall will the riser be? If it's tall enough, you could put a couple bass horns in it. I'm not up on the horn info, but there are a couple that use 10 inch subs I think that would fit in a 10-12 inch high riser. You should get WAY better bass than from some 8s. But sub boxes don't need to be huge. There are plenty of 15s that will play nice with a smaller ( 20x20x20 inches) cube or so. And for budget, you could do a pair of 15s and an amp for your price range...
My room I'm building (see my sig) is very similar to yours. I will be blocking my only window. I don't think you'll need to worry about a grey screen. Minimizing ambient light (leaks from the projector) along with darker wall colors and keeping the rope lights dimmed will help a lot. My current setup is just a cheap white screen in the family room and on high-contrast/low-brightness mode it looks fine, even with a small bit of ambient light.
Well, you got me. Haha. That's actually drafted out in Visio using the office layout template. The reflections are done by drawing lines and matching angles of the before and after wall lines to find the reflection point. It was a tedious process, and not sure if I'd do it again. Just about any 2d cad program would be able to accomplish it much more simply by drawing the lines, displaying the angles and then moving the vertex along the wall to where the angles matched...
The screen size is tbd. I'll play with it when the room is ready. Easy to make a big screen smaller than it is to make a smaller screen bigger. Standard couches for now, if for no other reason than saving money. We have a couch for the back row already (moving in from the current tv room) so I'll only need to buy one couch. Theater seats will likely come later, unless I score a killer deal or know someone selling some. I left out the bass traps in the above sketch...
I agree. When I buy the material, I could very easily buy a bit extra to play with. Though I'll be running into height problems if I go too big. The room is actually a bit shorter than 8 feet and if it gets too low, the riser needs to get quite tall to see over the first row clearly. I have a 100 inch now that I sit about 11-12 feet from. Thanks for the recommendation.
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