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Posts by isisyodin

Update: I put my RX1 back together and thank goodness for epoxy glue. Everything is working perfectly. I wonder if the glue will eventually break.
Well, I took my RX1 apart and... it is actually the driver. There is a hairline crack on the plastic frame that holds the magnet to the membrane. The crack spreads out about 2 inches; the sound gets distorted as the bolt that holds the speaker to the cabinet actually separates the broken plastic ever so slightly... the bolt adds tension to the plastic frame. I should have guessed... the driver is pretty heavy so on impact it took a lot of force. I have used epoxy glue to...
Guys, One of my RX1s took a fall (used as surrounds) and I need to know if I can get a replacement tweeer. The driver sounds fine and the cabinet is a bit banged up but it's still solid. The tweeter is not sounding right... I will have to run more tests, but on any mid-highs and highs it sounds like my grandma's old clock radio. They are 2011s.
3D is fading away and although is a must feature on most displays and PJs the focus is now on 4K. It is a shame as I really enjoy watching a 3D on my 4810. The image is good and bright enough if your room is fully light controlled.
My old 905 made similar popping and crackling noises. I don't think it's related to the power but more so with errors in the decoding of the lossless tracks. I would recommend updating to the latest main and DAC firmware. I believe it was 1.09 for the main but for the other 3 DACs I forget. I have moved on to another brand as the Onkyo generated too much heat once I relocated all my gear to an AV closet. Good luck; some guys in this forum have had distributed privately to...
Looks good. Have you considered using the WF2IR? I got a bit lazy on my last setup, and instead of running wires, I ended just buying the WF2IR for my living room and bedroom. In both cases, it was mainly for my older TV and lights neither of which had IP controls.
Did you try power cycling the unit? Basically unplug the power cord, wait at least 30 seconds and plug it back in? Most electronics have to be reset every once in a while; most of the times it is due to poor firmware. Not saying this is the case with your unit, but it may clear you error.
I thought you said 2 lexicons... I assumed one per port leaving one port opened. In any case port 3 is the one that can be setup as IR Blaster and is the furthest away from the power input. I would try Lexi 1 on port 1 and Lexi 2 on port 2.
Can't say I tried direct IR. I have seen the input in some of my devices, but have gone with with emitter, IP, or serial. Serial is probably the most solid connection. It's old and trustworthy. IP works well with some manufacturers. I seem to be having a lot of issues lately with my Marantz since their last firmware update. The Wifi and Ethernet to IR global caches have the last port to be optionally set up as blaster. Are you using this one for either of your units? Also,...
Yes and very likely. You don't really want your IR gateways to change IPs. Here is the procedure (off their website) Factory default settings for your GC-100 can be reset by electrically connecting pins 7 and 2 on the first serial connector (closest to the power connector) as you apply power to the GC-100. As you look directly at the serial connector, pin 2 is the second pin from the left in the top row, and pin 7 is the second pin from the left in the bottom row. The...
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