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Posts by dwightp

I don't see any vents so I assume you're building a sealed version. That seems like a big box for a sealed ZA5.3 but it has been a while since I've looked at the design. Just be sure you get the internal volume correct. If you're planning a vented version, you will have difficulties incorporating traditional cylindrical vents in such a shallow box. It looks like the baffle will sit on the wall, in which case you might want to round over the edges. Should be a fun...
I can't quite tell from the photos -- have you rounded over all the cabinet edges? That would make it quite challenging to veneer. You can wrap paper backed veneer around a radiused corner but you really need the edges that intersect the radiused edge to be square so you can terminate the veneer. If you were going to wrap veneer around the sides and front of the cabinet, for example, the edges joining the sides to the front would be radiused, but the edges on the top...
6" drawer slides are not common but they are available: http://www.drawerslides.com/6inch-fulterer-fr-5000-series-100lb-drawer-slide-zinc Having said that, I'm not sure how any drawer slide that fits into your 7"-ish joist space is going to move your projector 13" below the ceiling. A 6" slide only gives you 6" of travel. An 8" slide only gives you 8" of travel. A hydraulic lift cart uses a scissor mechanism: ...
I know it's no help but my own experience with waterbased finishes and the hot air that a turbine puts through the gun were part of what caused me to switch to conversion guns (i.e., HVLP guns that use an air compressor). Once I made the change, I found that the ability to adjust air pressure, in addition to material flow, was also a tremendous advantage. Target makes a retarder for their waterbased topcoats. You need to pick up some of their SA5 Universal Retarder. I...
I have very rarely seen unbacked veneer in a brick-and-mortar store, and then only in small pieces. I think most people either cut their own or order from a specialist supplier. My earlier post links to one such supplier. One of the nice things about veneersupplies.com is that they give you a photo of the actual veneer you will be buying, as opposed to a stock photo of the wood species. It can make a big difference, especially with figured wood.There are a few internet...
When most of us on this forum talk about veneer, we are talking about paperbacked veneer. (Examples here: http://www.veneersupplies.com/categories/Veneer__Products/Paper__Backed__Veneer/ ) It's available in 4'x8' sheets and the face is a very, very thin layer of real wood. Most of the product's thickness is actually the paper backing.If you apply stain to an exposed edge of paperbacked veneer, some of the stain is absorbed by the very, very thin edge of the wood layer...
If you email him, I bet he would tell you what he does.Looking at the photos on his website, it looks like he veneers everything except the outer baffle. The outer baffles look like they are either black-finished MDF or solid wood. Underneath the veneers, I'm sure he uses MDF.If you click on a photo in his gallery, the larger version of the photo usually has a caption at the bottom that tells you what kind of veneer he used. Some of the veneer he uses is quite exotic...
Do you need to be concerned about mounting that particular driver horizontally? I have read that the unsupported weight of the cone hanging on the suspension can eventually change the performance of some drivers. Unfortunately, I barely know enough to ask the question. I have no idea how to tell whether it could be a problem. From your drawing, it looks like you would have plenty of room to mount the drivers vertically and have them fire into a chamber that's open to...
For cutting plywood sheets, I lay a sheet of 2" rigid foam insulation board on my tablesaw and its outfeed table. The plywood goes on top of the foam board. I set the depth of cut to go through the plywood and 1/4" or so into the foam board. Very convenient and easy to set up.For cutting MDF, I flop the insulation board on the shop floor and do the same thing. MUCH easier than wrestling a heavy sheet of MDF up onto a cutting table. Also, some cuts are just easier to...
I have never used my 3/4" radius roundover bit outside the router table. Frankly, I would be scared to. If you're using that big honkin' bit in a handheld router, you have some big ... er ... well, let's just say you're racking up points on your man card faster than I am.Like Tim, though, I am surprised that running a 3/4" roundover bit for a couple of hours would have smoked the bearings. Maybe the bit was unbalanced?
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