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Posts by fierce_gt

now what would be REALLY cool, is to have that connect to a HTPC... but it looks good, and I'm sure there's only going to be more reasons to have a usb charger handy in the future.
^^gotcha. I painted my room dark blue on the top of the walls, and black on the bottom of the walls(all the way around) and the screen wall completely disappears, but the side walls I can clearly see where the blue part starts. that's where my recommendation came from. but I suppose a black screen wall would help all your speakers blend in, and it certainly wouldn't be worse than a dark color, haha. here's a shot of what my paint looks like: a little hard to see, but...
it's hard to say for sure, as everybody's preference is different. I THINK I'm more comfortable with a darker image than many, but I've played 3D on a 120" 1.0 gain white screen with my x35 on low bulb setting and the iris fully closed and found it watchable. but I did prefer to open up the iris, high bulb did not seem necessary to me, and between the projector being silent on low, and audible on high, I felt low was the better option. I really didn't think high bulb was...
you guys have definitely turned what I always thought was a tedious, but straight forward process into something I feel like I need a university degree to understand fully. this thread has been specifically about Samsung, but does this same idea apply to most/all plasmas as well? what order would you guys recommend adjusting settings in? I mean, I'm sure there's gonna be some back and forth, but is there a better place to start? would it make sense to do contrast first...
^^as far as I've heard, the only alternatives for the jvc emitter are stand alone units that cost even more. the Samsung glasses are about 20bux each, that's pretty cheap
you might actually see more improvement making the screen wall dark, and the adjacent walls black. honestly, next to the bright screen, anything dark looks black, but the side walls where the light is actually reflected off of, will be a lot more visible.
^^what i meant was that if abl kicks in only for bright scenes, and reduces that brightness so that it looks just like it would if i set the cell light to say 10 instead of 20, then it'd be a lot nicer to see a system that maintains that brightness instead of reducing 'just because'. a cell light of 20 is way to fricken bright, the end. i'm not going to turn my contrast down to 50 to compensate for that. turning down cell light works well, but if it increases abl, that...
i was fortunate(i guess?) that my other TV died last year so i was kind of forced to buy a new one. as it turns out 2013 was likely the best year for plasma ever, so it was good timing. knowing that i 'needed' a new tv, it was an easy decision for me to buy the best i could. my initial plan was zt60, but the f8500 caught my attention and eventually won me over. i still have my thoughts at times, but not about the f8500, just if the zt60 may have been better.it's a tougher...
also not a 3D fan, but i THINK the emitter comes bundled with 2pairs of glasses for about 250, or you can buy just the emitter for 120(going off memory from about a year ago, so lots of room for error).as for the glasses, any of the newer RF glasses should sync up. the samsung glasses that came with my f8500 work just fine, and i actually prefer them to the jvc ones which i find annoying after several minutes. neither are very comfortable though, imo.
'normal' viewing mode, yes, the f8500 has more lag, more than double(~120ms)with game mode activated, it's about on par with the vt60(~50ms)with PC mode activated, it's slightly better(~35ms)i actually 'tested' mine(the values above are compared to a low lag lcd, not CRT), but unfortunately i could not compare directly to a vt60, so i'm basing that comparison off what i've read about vt60 input lag tests
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