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Posts by CZ_the_DAY

It won't state axial anymore. Thanks for catching this S3K, and to everyone else, sorry for miss-leading you. -CZ
Hmmm, name looks familiar from somewhereedit; nm, you have the suspected refurb'd 606>.....I would try measuring output from every *regulator I can get at (admittedly a challenge even when not assembled/powered) and/or replace the rest of the 100s and then the ones I mention supporting the 5 pin primary regulators (220 and 470uF times 3). You may just be one of the unlucky ones *primarys are around 4v, the rest are a mix of 3.3 and 1.8v (for the most part)-CZ
Larry, hello down there, if I'm reading into this correctly. Your selection appeals to me because of the low esr claim and the rated hours at 105C....If you are not planning a cooling mod, consider buying and adding the 4 1uFs (when manufacturer ID'd applicable). The lowest voltage is fine; polyester, tantalum, etc...just not electrolytic (chemical based)You are so right about liking the odds because this thread was conceived from a '576 Good news, bad news; I believe they...
Quote: Originally Posted by lchiu7 ... is it likely that replacing the 100uF caps on the HDMI board are likely to fix my problem? Yes Larry, likely, but I say that only because you mention no typical progressive symptoms prior to the total failure. This is only like the 3rd '576 post to the thread; a small percentage indeed. -CZ
chupinsky27, your experience, although disappointing, will be a potential grief-saver to others. Here are some online options I looked up;http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...s=%09P13114-ND {high life expectancy but no ESR/Impedence listed}http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=493-1736-ND{Good Impedence(+ESR?), average life exp.}http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...t%252bxg%3d%3d{possible close match to OEM but with leads}Cheers! -CZ
FWIW you might want to run Entech's Monitor Asset Manager (MonInfo.exe) on your HTPC and compare the EDID before and after powering on the LG (using the refresh function). If there is a change (ie video related) you can search AVS for 'custom EDID' or 'EDID override', required for certain hardware compatability issues. However, if it boils down to what you keep saying is an excessively drawn out handshake, then the above is moot. But having a forced profile for the...
Congratulations and the observations are appreciated too...might be time to tweak the instructions again...I was also thinking of suggesting to those who are 'adding' caps that they can always gently expose some copper just off the edge of the regulator's 'heatsink' for solder purposes as that would need less heat to accomplish. Pictures forthcoming Well, NOW you have the SM, my bad!
I trust you've tried different combinations of power-on sequences. ( HTPC, then 605, then LG; LG then 605, then HTPC; etc ) -CZ
So it's new, refurbed or used ? No one else has reported problems without logging significant hours of usage.Mine is hot too (but that could be partially transferred heat) and it's an inductor coil, rated in milliHenrys I believe, you'll find it in that "5 pin regulator " circuit pic I included near the beginning of the thread. Better yet, PM me for how to get a schematic if you haven't got one yet. -CZ
Hi, even though there are many criteria involved in specifications, I would chose the highest temperature which in this case is the first link.Your description of symptoms looked so much like mine I have high hopes for your success.I have been soldering so long that I'll have to disqualify myself from rating how newbie-friendly this will be.
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