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Posts by 50BMG

Thanks for the helpful hint. I'll remember it for when the time comes.
The manual for our projectors doesn't specify the light output for the Low setting. In my case I used 1000/1200 so for you I used 1400/1600. It came out to 17.1 foot-lamberts at 1400 lumens. Professional theatrical projectionists have told me their ideal was 14 for a darkened theater. However, mister Bale has it noted that numbers below 16 would be too low. There is considerable latitude in this judgement, as some opinions and standards were evolved for film and others...
Just for fun, I've been playing with some numbers. Sitting 13 feet from a 166 inch screen (144x82 inches) means you have a 50 Degree FOV. This means you're within the THX recommended 8.6 to 18.6 feet ( 70 - 35 degrees FOV respectively ) Projecting on the wall, I gave you a screen reflectivity of 1.0 - On High (1600 lumens) screen illumination is almost 20 foot-lamberts. Professional theater projectionists claim this illumination is at the top of ideal, but for a...
186" eh? That is a lot of real-estate. (jealous) That should allay anyone's fears about the projector being too dim for a reasonable size screen. So, did your lady give you the "it's too big" argument? I've heard that one before, and it's never turned out to be true. LOL
A few more words about High Contrast Gray (HCG) - With my first projector (a Compaq) I was staying "out" a lot - the ability to take it with me to hotels and other temporary housing was attractive. In these situations, wall projection worked well enough, but I became very aware of ambient light as an issue. A plain white wall always produced a faded looking image to my eye with relatively poor black levels. This was a 1600 lumen projector, but wasn't 1080. (1024x768 if I...
Just to be clear, these are not only "Replacement Bulbs" but the entire "Lamp Module"....and for the record: They do not appear to be used or reconditioned - but "New".I've seen replacement Bulbs for sale, but have no experience with them. I was actually tempted several times to buy "bulbs", but when these "whole lamp modules" become available for less $$ - it was them instead. I really do not understand why the Epson lamps were so expensive, and remain so. If they had...
Et moi!
Well, there is a difference. The lamp Module contains other optical / and airflow elements. If you replace the lamp module 3 times - you kept new clean optics 3x more often than with a single Epson module. How often do you clean your air filter? This would help mitigate keeping a module for longer periods.Based on my previous comment, one might see a counterpoint to this practice of changing only the Bulb. However, with reasonable care and cleaning I think it should be...
On this point I could have been clearer...Common mode rejection provides against crosstalk and other environmental interferers, as I said in the original post (didn't think it needed explanation)Twist does have an effect on balancing Capacitive Reactance with Inductive Reactance for a given dielectric, conductor alloy and target impedance. It cannot be "easily ignored" in that context.A lesson on power amplifier design will have to wait. (sorry - that would fun as neither...
I guess you're purchasing a lower class of amplifiers then.I suggest you look up the cost of power supply components for high power amps. You'll find the cost of doubling the power supply voltage far exceeds the cost of actively driving both sides.Nonsense. If this were true, there would be no difference between the performance of Cat-4 and Cat-5 cabling.
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