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Posts by Scott C.

If the doors are still functional that would be even easier access If you're worried about the doors rattling, as long as they have some sort of clip or magnet to hold them closed you can just add some weatherstripping tape and seal them up while preserving the functionality.
I would definitely start with the early reflection points on the side wall if I could, but to the left is open, and to the right is a window that takes up most of the wall. For now I'm just going to try to get back my 100ish Hz.
Since the right speaker is in a corner would I have to treat both behind it and to the side to mitigate the SBIR?
If you can spare a few inches between the console and the wall I would turn the sub around. That way it won't be firing into the inside of the doors and you won't have to cut any holes for it.
300Hz is quite high. You'll probably need to spread that over 2 drivers. One handling 300Hz down to 60-100Hz, and a subwoofer (which could be horn-loaded) taking over below that. The middle driver will still be pretty directional, so crossing that with the unity horn will be tricky.
It's not necessary to set your AVR LFE preout to its max setting, and in fact it can cause problems if it can't provide a clean signal at that level. I would follow the instructions in this post: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/home-theater-receivers-processors-amps/35677-gain-structure-home-theater-getting-most-pro-audio-equipment-your-system.html
For sale is a Tascam US-122MKII USB sound card with microphone preamp, and a Dayton EMM-6 calibrated measurement microphone. This is a great setup to get started with Room EQ Wizard. Both the mic and the Tascam come with all accessories and software. I'd prefer to sell them together, but feel free to make an offer for one or the other. I accept Paypal or Chase Quickpay, and will only ship to the continental US (included in listed price). PM for details and interest.
Absorption on the wall behind the speaker will help. I have the same issue, and am planning on installing some eventually. 4" rigid fiberglass with a 4" air gap from the wall was mentioned as an excellent option. I might not go with that much air gap depending on how much space I have to give up, but I wouldn't go with less than a 4" panel.
+1I'm also excited to see what's coming up with the 8" model that I think Erich mentioned earlier.
If you're clamping there is no need for screws, especially with the flat packs.
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