or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by Martycool007

There are definitely differences in sound quality with a tower or bookshelf speaker laying horizontally as opposed to vertically! These differences can be objectified by using measurements. Now, whether or not the listener will perceive this difference as all "that bad" or whatever, is different from one listener to another.
The JTR cap will not be able to match two UXL-18's in a large low tuned enclosure, if you drive them with a good amp. If it were me,I would pick up two UXL-18's and use a Behringer iNuke6000dsp through Sweetwater for under $360. That would give you more performance compared to the JTR, and cost considerably less!
Wil try to past pics later, but, my problems are trimming the tops of the panels on my sub enclosures all flush so that I can get the top on them. Right now the back panel and front panel need trimming to fit the top on. Can someone post a pic of how to hold the router for this purpose? I suppose that I would have to turn the cabinet sideways??
Thanks for the help guys!What I am having trouble with, in particular, is cutting say a 2ft by 4ft panel perfectly into a 2ft by 2ft panel, and doing other similar cutting. I like those precision measurement t tools that you guys linked above, and may very well pick up some of those when I have the spare cash.One thing that would definitely help is if I could learn to properly use a flush trim bit in my router. I bought one recently and never could figure out how to...
Shouldn't be a big deal to add a false bottom or riser to extend the hight. If you haven't built them yet, you might check with the original designer if you can make them into towers and possibly get better bass response. If they are indeed already built, and you want them taller then I would just build some stands.
I would imagine that the 15's will hold their pattern control lower,have more SPL in the mid-bass area, and go lower in frequency response, but, they will also give up some of the top end so it would depend on what you are using for the HF's and where you cross them over., although, sure that you already knew this!
Yes, I was indeed using a flush trim bit as it had the bearing on the bottom. I think where I went wrong was that another member told me that the bearing has to ride a straight line, and that I should measure the gaps or differences between each panel and clamp on a straight edge the same gap difference to guide the bearing on the bit for each panel.From the looks of that picture above, the bearing can ride in free space?? Is it not necessary to use a clamped on straight...
I have long been wanting to do an in-wall speaker setup in my kitchen, both bathrooms and the master bedroom. I would, ideally, like to be able to carry my iPad with me and be able to play, stop, pause, , switch tracks, and adjust volume in each of those 4 rooms with some sort of central music server, perhaps my Windows-7 desktop PC in conjunction with iTunes as I have tons of songs downloaded. Any suggestions on how to make this work? I currently have the walls and...
Tux, I am positive that it was a flush trim bit as it said so on the box that it came in. Can you explain what you mean by the wrong bit? Is a flush trim bit the proper way to flush trim panels?
I have a general question that I would like to ask you woodworking guys as I am totally new to this... When it comes to measuring and marking the cutting lines on various pieces of wood, do you just use a tape measure and trust your freehand marking skills by the line on the tape measure? I am having trouble marking accurate, repeated lines using a tape measure. Is there a better way to ensure that you mark the same lines multiple times? Also, I am having trouble cutting...
New Posts  All Forums: