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Posts by braveheart123

No question is dumb. I was, for sure, the dumbest when I was learning DIY. Anyway, open up iNuke Remote Connect > Configuration Tab > Channel A > under Peak Limiter, set peak voltage (Vp) 75 Volts. Before doing this, set Load to 4 ohms. This should set the peak wattage to 703 watts. +/- 3 watts don't matter.Also, you need to gain match your amp with your AVR. How to do that? Well it's been stated by many including me many times before. So, a bit of reading is required on...
Set the Peak power in iNuke to 700 watts for a 4 cu ft net internal box size. HO18 has been tested by Josh Ricci to have Xmax well above the stated 12.8mm. 700 watts push it close to 16mm at 20Hz and 17mm at 10Hz. I wouldn't EQ this driver in 4 cu ft box and rely heavily on room gain. Anyway a single HO18 in sealed configuration may not cut it for you. But it all depends on your room.
Incorrect. Those gain knobs on pro amps are signal input sensitivity knobs. The amplification factor at minimum position and at max is exactly the same. What defines the output is the input signal fed from the pre. So, even if the those knobs are maxed out; there are no chances of distortion as long as you don't end up in hard clipping.
DIY will knock your socks off, for sure 2 x Behringer iNuke 3000 DSP4 x Dayton HO 15Build 4 boxes (4-4.5 cu ft tuned to 22-23Hz) placed in each corner of your listening roomOR1 x Behringer iNuke 3000 DSP4 x Dayton HO 15Build 2 boxes (8-8.5 cu ft tuned to 20-21Hz) each box having two drivers connected in parallel for a 2 ohms configuration. Run each pair separately on each channel of iNuke.Both options will murder SVS. I'd personally go for the second option.
Your avr can output enough pre out voltage to push iNuke to its optimum performance. No need of signal booster like Art CleanBox Pro. Read on gain matching CE equipment with pro amp. Onkyos put out pretty hot pre out signal IF you properly gain match them,
Higher GD close to tuning frequency is inherent trait of ported alignment cause of the application of HPF to protect driver from unloading below the tuning frequency. Sure you can reduce GD with a gentler slope (first order/2nd order) but then you compromise on the high output. To me, the purpose of having a ported sub is moot then.Yes and No. With gentle 1st order slope, you can bring it close to the performance of a sealed sub; but what's the need of ported then? You...
HPF in ported alignment is imperative and is still active when damping is set to High/Medium.
The Damping switch set to Low on FV15HP in 2 ports open mode while gives the max output as it has the steepest slope, but it also jacks up GD. That gives away accuracy. I would like to set it to Medium or HIgh, but it gives up output in favor of accuracy. Um sure it is the GD that impacts accuracy below 30Hz keeping all things equal.
I have a set of ears and can discern even the likes of Rythmik FV15HP in 2 ports open, low damping, rumble filter on, 20Hz hz to be not so accurate below 30Hz. All of that is attributed to high GD i.e. close to 72m/s at 20Hz. And I've heard many subs just like so many people on this forum.But then at the same time, it's always a trade off between accuracy, output, extension, size.
Sealed will have far less group delay while ported will have noticeably higher GD. Subjectively speaking; you will have no accuracy in bass response. While you can reduce box size on ported ones to have GD close to sealed ones; but then you won't enjoy the high output trait of ported subs. So, I don't see the need to mix both. Hoffman's Iron law is in full swing
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