or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:

Posts by bradsab

They sound ok on the high end, but lack in the lower frequencies. I'm going to let the speakers alone, and try adding subs. The problem is, there isn't a good place to locate a sub in the two main rooms. The only option I have is on the opposite side of the room from where the speakers are located; one is 15', another is 22' away. Not sure how that will sound.
Is this a dumb idea? Buy a powered sub, and remove the plate. Make a blank plate to cover the opening. Install the sub's plate in an enclosure inside the cabinet where the stereo amp/speaker selector is kept, run speaker in/out on the plate. Run one Monster Cable from the plate to the (now passive) sub. In two of the zones I can use sub amplifiers/passive in-wall subs. But the main zone's best location for a sub is along a brick wall, so an in-wall isn't an option,...
I think what I'm going to do is add a sub and see what it sounds like. If that doesn't cut it, I'll buy new on-walls.But, how to do that? I have an amp with a 4 zone speaker selector. Three of the zones would get subs. The only place to access the speaker wiring is at the source. Is there some sort of external sub crossover that can be installed on each of the three zones to pull the low frequencies off and send the signal to the subs? Preferably just a single wire...
I want to avoid the drywall mess. If I have to do any, I'll close the hole entirely and get something completely different. Some of the speakers aren't located in the best locations for our living arrangement. But I'll live with this to avoid the sheetrock work.
Unfortunately, the openings are framed with 2x4's, so I'm stuck with the cases I have. My first post was incorrect on the rough opening size, it's 12" x 17.75". I'm thinking about adding a sub to these rooms; that would probably do more for me than modifying the speakers.
Hi Guys- These speakers are built into my walls and they're at least 25 years old. I have no idea what the specs are. I'm considering upgrading them, but I have no clue where to start. I'd just replace them altogether, but if I remove these I'll have six 12"x20" holes in my walls, so I want to explore what I can do with the existing boxes. The tweeters have R. O. C. MK4 8 Ohm stamped on the back. The woofers have DT-D012018; C16EU20-52D 6 Ohm. I can't see the...
The ZP120 is $100 more than the ZP90, the Onkyo M-282 is $230. For the net $130 difference I'm going to get the separate amp. Seems like I'd be squeezing the little 55W ZP90, while the M-282 can just idle. I decided to get a Niles SSVC4 speaker selector. The others I looked at had more buttons to push (2 source; 6 zones), and since the grandkids will be using it, I want to keep it simple.
Thanks for your help!
I never thought of this, but do you think a single Sonos Connect Amp could drive 4 pairs of speakers?
I'm sorry, I have the model number wrong. I want to use a Sonos Connect to pass iTunes from my PC, and other sources such as Pandora to an amp, then to an impedance matching speaker selector, to four zones. I understand I'll have to switch the zones manually, but I want to control source and volume with an iPhone.
New Posts  All Forums: