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Home Theater build begins...its about time!

post #1 of 34
Thread Starter 
Room is about 14"x24", its a unfinished room above the garage so we have just the frame.

NOTE: My camera is dirty....thats what I get when I let my 1 year old have it

Left and Right pics just to show the room



post #2 of 34
Thread Starter 
Electrical was just done yesterday. 6 cans in the ceiling and wiring for a drop light by the window (future use like poker table).




I used some tape to figure out my screen size...since Im putting the Screen on the side wall I only have about 10 Feet for the view distance. This means Im going with just an 88" screen. No big deal thats still pretty cool.

Im using the side wall because I can build everything into the frame. The Subs (twin 15" TC2000s) and the main speakers are all going to be flush with the wall itself. I will build frames to hold them all. This gives me more space in the room. The same is true for the equipment racking, it will be built into the frame.


Several things to note...

HVAC - I have a mini-split unit going in also its a separate HVAC system from the rest of the house.

SCREEN - DIY Laminate Designer White, D354-60 (4'x8') from Lowes or HD...Going to order it today.

Seating - 4 Berkline leather chairs (black) I forget the model #s.

Projector - Panny AU900

Walls - linacoustic 1" fibre glass duct liner and then I will find some nice fabric to cover it. This seems to be a popular and cheap way to have sound absorption. I will probably to two colors with a chair rail to hide seems.

Columns - maybe just beside the screen on each side something like




Im not going to do Green glue and double drywall because it adds over $1000 to the project and I just dont see the benefit at this time.


Questions

1. Do I need bass traps? even if Im using linacoustic? I so, I would love to build maybe 2 into the frames on the back wall (behind the linacoustic). For Bass traps do I just put in "heavier/denser" matrial in between the frames? Is two enough?

2. Door to attic and furnance pretty close and it might be loud when on. How do I sound proof a door or just the wall. I guess I might need to use Green glue and double dry wall if I want to keep sounds out of the room Is there a way to sound proof a door though?

3. Is there anywhere online that I can by pre-finished crown molding and chair rail moldings? maybe Dark Cherry or Mahogony finishes. Im not great with staining things!!!
post #3 of 34
1. Yes - and you need thicker material and you need to plan where to put it. Corners are very efficient though the rear wall is also usually a good place to help kill some bass anomolies.

2. Use a solid door. That will help. Also use seals and a sill. That alone isn't going to do it. Proper isolation is an entire plan including isolation/decoupling, mass, and sealing it up pretty much air tight.
post #4 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray View Post






Columns - maybe just beside the screen on each side something like




Is there anywhere online that I can by pre-finished crown molding and chair rail moldings? maybe Dark Cherry or Mahogony finishes. Im not great with staining things!!!


Be careful not to design the columns too close to the screen if you go that route. The reflections will drive you nuts.

I bought all my cherry trim (casings, crown and baseboard) from here, much cheaper than it was locally, and it was at my house in 3 days via UPS:

https://www.bairdbrothers.com/index.html

It was in perfect condition when it arrived. I didn't even need to sand it before I stained as it had all been milled to a shine. They can pre-finish as well for a little more money. The quality is excellent, and they'll swap out anything you aren't happy with.
post #5 of 34
That's a great looking column! If I say so myself!
post #6 of 34
Thread Starter 
Thanks Bpape for the advice!

Max, Thanks!! I will check out the link. I wish I was willing to spend the extra money on the PSB in-cabinets you have in your HT. I just love them so much!!!! Im sure I will get there but the room has to be done first, I can always upgrade, re-model and so on later


HtNutz, That column is $800 online, its just a reference point for me to start designing something myself. Also, Max if the screen is 30" away from the columns on each side with it be okay, my columns I believe will only stick out 10" or less and I might just go with wood trim (chair rail, crown molding, etc) and have the columns mostly just plywood painted black and wrapped in Black GOM (still deciding).
post #7 of 34
That should be fine. I've seen several theaters where they framed the screen with millwork columns or other wood trim and even with a low-gloss finish the reflections are very distracting(to me).

That screen size and throw distance will give you a very sharp, bright image.

You must be very excited, good luck with everything and if you need any help or input or anything shoot me a PM.

P.S The PSBs are aging like fine wine. I have been recommending them without reservation.
post #8 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:


P.S The PSBs are aging like fine wine. I have been recommending them without reservation.

they are my favorite speakers!!

Quote:


You must be very excited

I am, I have been waiting a year!
post #9 of 34
Thread Starter 
Would 1" styrofoam work for the top half of my walls? [edit] I think I know the answer is probably no and it was a dumb question!
post #10 of 34
In that room I would probably run 1" Linacoustic all the way up, cover it with fabric and forget about it. You have a fair amount of ceiling area as well, you may want a couple panels up there out in front of the screen.

Perhaps Mr. Pape could chime in on that.

I do know if you are coving all the walls with fabric you could build some nice bass traps back into the dead space behind your seating etc.
post #11 of 34
If it were my room I would cover that window and put in a 12' 2.35 screen in there. I wish you lived closer I would have you sit in my HT and change your mind on that little screen
post #12 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:


If it were my room I would cover that window and put in a 12' 2.35 screen in there. I wish you lived closer I would have you sit in my HT and change your mind on that little screen

I have went back and forth for too long on this. Yes, the better design is to go the length but though I say its a dedicated Theater Im still going to put a poker table by the window. I will have BOC over the window though.

The other reason I want to use the side wall is that I can use the current frame to place my subs and speakers instead the wall instead of building it out.

88" or 92" isnt that huge but Im pretty happy with it none the less.
post #13 of 34
thats all that counts good luck with your build
post #14 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:


thats all that counts good luck with your build

Thanks! You have a great HT room!!! The next house I build will have a better HT room built into it
post #15 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:


In that room I would probably run 1" Linacoustic all the way up, cover it with fabric and forget about it. You have a fair amount of ceiling area as well, you may want a couple panels up there out in front of the screen.

Perhaps Mr. Pape could chime in on that.

I do know if you are coving all the walls with fabric you could build some nice bass traps back into the dead space behind your seating etc.

I was reading in the master acoustic thread that 100% wall coverage is not a good idea. Very confused now.
post #16 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by W00lly View Post

If it were my room I would cover that window and put in a 12' 2.35 screen in there. I wish you lived closer I would have you sit in my HT and change your mind on that little screen


Yep, that's what I am doing in my room. I just posted some pics in the "Bonus Room/Attic Theater" thread.
post #17 of 34
Great...You have almost eactly the dimensions I'm working with in my new construction bonus room. So I will be interested to see how yours works out. I am going through the length vs width decision and since I'm leaning towards more of a mixed use room I think I will go the side wall like you. Although I may kick out the roof giving a bit more width to the room.

Incidentally I am wanting to implement a whole house a/v system like yours so I appreciate your posts on the forum as they have helped me determine how I will design my system!

Good Luck!
post #18 of 34
Thread Starter 
Awesome, nobo!!

The length vs width decision for me was really, really hard because the proper HT room design is really one that uses the whole length of the room. I still wanted window usage and I wanted to use the side frames of the room more effeciently and not build a false wall, stage and frame for the Speakers and screen. I only have 4 berklines for one row of HT and I dont want a 2nd row so that helps the decision although the screen is only 88" or 92" with this decision.

PROs

- extra space for poker table, play area.
- window still exists for fresh air and light so the kids can play sometimes.
- Side wall used very well for "Built-in" speaker and sub shelves.


CONs
- smaller screen max 92" or less
- only one row of theater seating
post #19 of 34
Thread Starter 
Max Lomax, I haved asked the question about running the 1" acoustic material all the way up the wall and the reply was....


Rooms become too deadened long before their walls are 100% covered.

I know you have an incredible HT room and I think you do this stuff for a living too so what is the real answer?
post #20 of 34
Few questions which Berklines are you using?

Where are you mounting your projector...I was thinking about building a built-in cubby hole/shelf above the seating and placing the projector in there.

Also how are you planning on mounting your subs in wall? How do you protect against vibration...etc. I was thinking about using a Built-in subwoofer like the NHT iWS but wasn't sure how well they work and I can't find many places with them.


Thanks,

Justin
post #21 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Few questions which Berklines are you using?

45004 berkline home theater seating seats, 4 in a row.

Quote:


Where are you mounting your projector...I was thinking about building a built-in cubby hole/shelf above the seating and placing the projector in there.



The seat of one of my berklines is shown in this pic, I will build a projector box on the 45 degree angle portion of my ceiling (probably) I dont want to build it into the back wall because I dont think its high enough.

Quote:


Also how are you planning on mounting your subs in wall? How do you protect against vibration...etc. I was thinking about using a Built-in subwoofer like the NHT iWS but wasn't sure how well they work and I can't find many places with them.

I build my own subs (I have a DIY sub building thread) so I will be building two 15" subs (TC2000 drivers) they will have 1000W each and will be port tuned to 18Hz. DIY subs for a fraction of the cost outperform manufactured subs and I dont need a finish either which is less cost too.

Here is the frame so far for the first sub



I trying to figure out if I should just frame the sub into that or add plywood to that frame and then build a Sub box to place inside that frame. Im not sure vibration will exist.

YOu see I already have 4 18" Q18s in an IB array framed into my ceiling in my family room and they are awesome so attaching a subsytem to a truss or frame isnt a big deal (IMO).

IB array in family room...
post #22 of 34
Thread Starter 
Reflection points



What a cool program but I have no idea what it means
post #23 of 34
Screen wall and floor should be absorptive as should all other walls below ear height. Above ear height and ceiling should be reflective. That's the case for multi surround av rooms, stereo will be different.

Gary
post #24 of 34
Thread Starter 
All speaker/sub and equipment cabinet in wall framing is complete (pics comming)

We are going to insulate and hang the dry wall this week. I will be drywalling all walls and ceiling, is there anything I should know or not do???
post #25 of 34
One piece of advice I got on my thread...thin your mud. It's much easier to work with.

CJ
post #26 of 34
Thread Starter 
The In-wall frames for speakers, subs and Equipment are dont now, here are the pics....

The mains and the center channel sit flush very nicely. They are front ported so they are 100% okay in the built-in frames. The two subs are going to be incredible, cant wait to get them finished, I placed those incredible looking TC2000s in the pic to show what they look like.





Two equipment cabinets side by side....22W x 24 H x 20 D. I dont need that much space since most of my equipment already exist in my Full House AV equipment closet but I can add Amps and local equipment if I need more. I might even move some of the full house equipment up to the HT room.







Cost break down so far
$1800 for all electrical work
$180 worth of lumber for in-wall framing and sub cabinets
$70 on a 4x8 laminate sheet Designer White Color
$190 on Cherry wainscot baseboard, chair real, colonial casing
$146 on Blue/Gold Damask upholstery for upper HT walls (26 yards)
$80 on Blackout Satin Wide from Dazian.com. (I love that material but its expensive!!!) I would love to have the bottom of my walls down with this material!!
$225 on 4 MidAtlantic Sliding Racks shelves, great deal from woodwind and Brasswind $54 each.
post #27 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Lomax View Post


I bought all my cherry trim (casings, crown and baseboard) from here, much cheaper than it was locally, and it was at my house in 3 days via UPS:

https://www.bairdbrothers.com/index.html

It was in perfect condition when it arrived. I didn't even need to sand it before I stained as it had all been milled to a shine. They can pre-finish as well for a little more money. The quality is excellent, and they'll swap out anything you aren't happy with.


Thanks for the link Max. Turns out they are near me in Canfield, Ohio, so I drove down Saturday to look them over. They've got quite an operation. We had to take a ticket and get in line.

Their $1.95/ft 3/4" x 5 1/2" classic red oak baseboard moulding is less than half the cost at the local Loews. Really high quality stuff.

Ray
post #28 of 34
Thread Starter 
Cost updates

$1800 for all electrical work
$180 worth of lumber for in-wall framing and sub cabinets
$70 on a 4x8 laminate sheet Designer White Color
$190 on Cherry wainscot baseboard, chair real, colonial casing
$146 on Blue/Gold Damask upholstery for upper HT walls (26 yards)
$80 on Blackout Satin Wide from Dazian.com. (I love that material but its expensive!!!) I would love to have the bottom of my walls down with this material!!
$225 on 4 MidAtlantic Sliding Racks shelves, great deal from woodwind and Brasswind $54 each.
$513 in insulation (R-30 for walls and ceiling)
$34 for cooling fan kit for equipment rack
$200 for BRK rack (14U) with glass door
$78 case of 6 Roxul 60 Rockboard
$131 case of 12 1" OC703
post #29 of 34
Thread Starter 
For those who remember doing insulation here are some pics.....








Two of us did this stuff in 2 hours yesterday. We will finish it probably tomorrow.

Its NASTY!!!!! Long shirts, masks, glasses definitely a must!!!!

Insulation was way more expensive then I thought and we need to get one more roll....Thats $600 worth!!!
post #30 of 34
Thread Starter 
Update of all my pics....

Currently building DIY main speakers that can keep up with my subs and Im also still testing different amps, AVRs, etc.















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