Master thread for Panasonic plasma not turning on - Page 35

I agree. I have used Panasonic products for years and they performed flawlessly. I had to return two Samsung 6500 Blu-Ray players last year after the Dolby Digital compression mode wouldn't shut off after a firmware update. Tech support was useless. Replaced them with two Panny DMP-85's and they have worked flawlessly. I have also rept for Panasonic, Sony, Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood and several other brands when I was in the car audio business and Panasonic was my most reliable brand. Despite all the abuse their amps and head units received, they rarely came back. Their quality control and build quality is as good it gets in their respective price category's.


Ian

Thanks for the suggestion, I just bought it since not too bad and the alternative is throwing it away.

And my comment on Samsung is based on no research Their LED TV looks pretty nice with the 0.2" bezel.

My 42PZ77U purchased in Oct 2007 got the 7 blink disease yesterday. I called Panasonic support and they were quite helpful. They seemed aware of the issue. They said they will pay for a service visit to evaluate the problem and will pay for the repair if it is a particular part.

While at Panasonic's support page looking for their phone number, I saw a notice of a firmware update for the 42PZ77U as well as the 42PZ700, which I assume is the upgrade previously mentioned in this thread which was done when repairs were being made to these panels. I just wish I had been notified of the availability of the upgrade prior to experiencing the problem.

The firmware link is mentioned here by Tom Ames, and may be helpful to dmk11.

Hi Worlok,
I am completely guessing without having your tv available. But, since it is intermittent and possibly heat sensitive, I think it could very likely be that MC301 module.

If you can unsolder it and send it to me, I would check it out and add a resistor to make it work, if needed (no charge). If that does work, the chip is available from someone in England on ebay for a permanent fix.

Appreciate the offer. I think I've moved beyond that possibility, but we will see after I perform my next bit of surgery on the set. About two weeks ago, the 10-blink problem stopped being intermittent and became constant. I haven't been able to get the set on since.

I replaced the K board over the weekend. That didn't work. Didn't think it really would, but it was the cheapest board of the possible culprits, so I thought I would start small. Now I've moved on to the A board (TNPH0731ACS) which I will replace tonight. If that's not it, I may give up, but I will continue posting as the saga drags on. Might contact you regarding the MC301.

@Worlock:

Save your money on other circuit boards. Trust me and kdh05 when we say that the 10X blink issue is most likely the P-board. Specifically a problem with either module MC201 or module MC301 or the circuits they belong in.

We have both done in-depth troubleshooting and have independently come to the same conclusion... Unless you have received the 10X blink error as a result of the well-published HTPC connection via HDMI (disconnecting and resetting TV can solve this), the 10X blink is most likely a problem with the P-board...

kdh05's suggestion to install the resistor is sound advice and possibly a good long-term solution.

After my repair, I am now looking at a perfectly working plasma TV... Total cost of new parts + shipping was approximately $80 and total repair time was approximately 40 minutes with the board removed from the TV (This does not include the troubleshooting time which I regard as a learning experience...)

In summary, my P-board had a few simultaneous problems:

1) replaced shorted 27V zener diode (ZD302) in the "15V" circuit. --> solved my 10 blinks error but then the TV showed 2 blinks...

2) replaced faulty module MC201 in the "Vsus" circuit

3) replaced shorted transistor Q401 (2SK3607) in the "Vda" circuit.

I spent way too many hours following the instructions in the service manual which only pointed to other circuit boards...I followed my gut feeling and directed my attention to the P-board which paid off in the end.

Worlock,
I shouldn't be pushing you, but I'd really like to see if this resistor fix would solve your problem. The fact that the tv was intermittent and now won't come on at all supports the MC301 module.

If you can do the soldering, it is a free test to solder a resistor on the module. A 10k would probably do it (4.7k would be better). As a reminder, you will want to solder the resistor from pin 12 on the module to pin 13 on the chip (TEA1611) or to the cap that goes to pin 13. The cap is much easier.

If you try it let me know how it goes. Good Luck!

Just for clarification, is the MC301 module the same TEA1611 chip? In other words, is the MC301 module a TEA1611 chip?

I have the exact same TV and had the exact same 7 blink issue as you back in December. I am under extended warranty and the repair did not cost me anything, but it turned out in my case that the SC Board had failed. At the time of the failure, I did not have the latest firmware installed. If I did have it installed, most likely I would not have experienced the 7 blinks in the first place. I also previously had an occasional screen "flicker" at the top of my screen when using either HDMI port, and that was also resolved after the firmware update. My TV has been flawless since the repair and update.

I was afraid that I wasn't being clear enough.

I am using the word "module" for the little stand-up board (MC201/MC301). That little board has a TEA1611 chip on it, along with a bunch of discrete components (resistors, diodes, caps).

So the resistor would be connected to pin 12 on the MCX01 stand-up board (it is labeled on the back of the power supply board). And the other end to pin 13 of the TEA1611 chip itself which is on the MCX01 stand-up board.

Hope that helps

That's encouraging to hear. I'm still waiting for the repair guy to call again to tell me he has the board in. I believe he told me Panasonic told him to replace the SC board to see if that cured it, but I could be mistaken about which board he told me. I assume he will also update the firmware as others have reported. If not, I'll certainly do it as soon as he leaves. All assuming the board he replaces happens to fix my problem, of course.

To me, the most frustrating thing is now knowing that the firmware upgrade was not only available, but featured on Panasonic's support "splash screen", and likely would have prevented the issue in the first place.

I have bookmarked this thread and will get back in touch with you should I pursue this any further. I decided to temporarily wave the white flag on this issue and I bought one of the new Samsung PN51D6500 units last night. I'm a big motorsports fan and with the Indianapolis 500 this weekend along with the Grand Prix of Monaco and the Coca-Cola 600, I really wanted to have a bigger screen to watch this weekend.

I have not given up on this problem though. I know I can get it fixed without spending a great deal more $. Time is the biggest factor right now and I've already been out for about 4 weeks. Once I get it up-and-running again, I will have use for it.

My thanks to all who commented here and offered suggestions. My best information has come from this forum and also influenced by decision to choose the new Samsung set over the Panny TCP50GT30 (it was an extremely tough decision ).

Repair guy called two days ago and set up an appointment for today. Came out this afternoon with the replacement board (SC, I think but not sure) in a box sent to him from Panasonic labeled "Next Day Air." The actual replacement of the board was a bit more complicated than I anticipated, and he indicated that it was more difficult than it would have been with newer sets of any brand. About 45 minutes after he showed up, I had a working PZ77U again! My teenager was more thrilled than I was as he had "inherited" it for his use one day before it died.

Repair guy did not upgrade the firmware as was the experience of a couple of others in this thread. He also said that this is a one-time replacement from Panasonic. I had assumed this to be the case and am guessing he has some knowledge that is true. As soon as he left, I downloaded the firmware from Panasonic's website onto an SD card and installed it. The downloaded upgrade was definitely a later version than what it replaced.

I am very impressed by Panasonic's quick and effective response in arranging what would have otherwise been a relatively expensive repair in a 3.5 year-old TV.

Experiences like this make me want to buy from Panasonic over a Samsung and there lack of quality customer service!

Techlord

Glad this worked out for you Tom! As I say, my TV has been working great in the past few months since the repair and firmware update was done, so hopefully this issue is behind both of us. Although I find this TV to be a little small for my liking for the viewing distance in my new place, I'm really quite pleased with the picture quality and hope this set remains reliable. I honestly really appreciate this TV because it has a lot of the legacy inputs and outputs that I still consider valuable: 2 component, 3 composite, and of course the red and white analog audio out jacks.

I do agree about the firmware though, it would have also saved me some grief had I known about how serious it was beforehand.

To complete the story, I replaced the SU board, but 7-blink still happening. I think the technician was correct - the panel itself is bad and killed the SU board. So, if anyone wants to buy parts of my TV from me, let me know

Saw a good deal on ST30 TV, thinking of getting that as a replacement.

They repaired it for free?

Absolutely. Running like a top. I couldn't be happier with Panasonic's handling of this. The repair guy didn't even leave me an invoice or require a signature from me.

I have owned two plasmas, both panasonics. my first was a 42" PZ77U that went down within a month of owning it (5 flashes or something like that). I was impressed with the how they fixed it. Since it took longer than a week they gave me a similar TV as a loaner.

I got a 58" S2 for christmas this year and I used it 4 times before it would not turn on, no flashes at all. This time the fix was not so flawless. The parts were on backorder so it took 3 weeks to even address the problem, and when they tried to repair it (in my home) they determined one of the parts that they ordered was also bad and they would have to re-order it. Found out that part was on backorder again and it was going to be another 3 weeks. Trying to talk to panasonics customer service was as efficient as talking to my broken TV. I finally got them to step up to the plate and replace the TV. They did not have any 58" S2 sets available so they asked if it would be ok to replace it with a 60" S30. I am enjoying the set right now...with my fingers crossed.

dmk11, I'm sorry I didn't see your post earlier, and that your attempt at repairing your TH-42PZ700U was not successful.

There is one thing you should verify, that you have actually have the TH-42PZ700U and not a TH-42PZ700UA. Panasonic made mid-season changes to their TVs, and designated them with UA. The U boards are usually not interchangeable with the UA boards. If your service tech tried to replace a UA SC-board with a U SC-board, the 7-blinks will continue.

The following flowchart can help in determining if the plasma panel is actually defective. It would really be a shame to dispose of a good TV.

unspun01, I have the same issues you describe (2 blinks). You say you replaced MC201. Could you tell me how you did that? Did you buy a new TEA1611t chip? Thanks!

Here is a quick update.

I thought the TEA1611 was leaking on the module, but it turned out to be that pesky 1uf s/m cap again! (the one that goes to pin 13 on the TEA1611 IC).

Any of you having a problem with the 2 & 10 blinks, consider removing that cap for a test. The leakage might be gone. (2 blinks - MC201, 10 blinks - MC301).

Could you tell me how you are troubleshooting the leaking capacitor? I found it on both boards but not sure how to confirm the current leakage. Is there a way to do it while the module is still intact in the TV? I don't have access to a DC power supply. Thanks!

cmpeng,
I wish now that I had tried ohming it out in-circuit. But, those readings are often unreliable and different between meters.

I'm not sure exactly what the properties are of a leaking cap. In theory, if it measures under 50k (both directions), that is enough of a leak to keep the module from powering up.

You could try using a 9v battery. Connect the negative end to common (those 3 white square resistors in a row works), and the positive to pin 12 on the MCx01 module. Then measure from pin 12 on the module to pin 13 on the TEA1611 IC (the bottom side of the cap is easier). It should measure about 1v. 2v is pretty bad. 1 1/2v is going to be bad soon, etc.

If you try this, let us know how the test goes.
Good luck!

As of yesterday, my TC-P58S1 (purchased December 2009) has been giving me the 7 blinks code when I try to power it up with the remote. However, if I press and hold the power button on the front of the TV, it turns on and works fine.

I figured the 7 blinks was a error code and I searched the internet and ultimately found this thread. I guess I'll be calling Panasonic tomorrow...

@cmpeng:

I replaced the complete MC201 module. The "module" is available online at www.PartStore.com for about $60.

The service manual (TH-42PZ85U and TH-50PZ85U) lists TWO DIFFERENT PART NUMBERS for MC201 and MC301. Buy the correct one. I don't know if they are different or interchangeable, but just to let you know.

For everyone reading, when I say "module" I'm referring to the actual printed circuit board that contains the TEA1611 IC, not the TEA1611 chip itself...

In short, the 1uF surface mount cap that kdh05 refers to was "blown up" on my TV and I could not determine the value for the cap. I also did not have a replacement cap so I did not waste effort repairing the module MC201. It is possible that mine was repairable but I did not fix it (just in case the TEA1611 was damaged)

I don't recommend replacing the TEA1611 chip (on the MCX01 modules) - It is most likely the 1uF cap..


Replacement of module MC201 or MC301:

After removing the P-Board from the TV, there are several screws on the front and rear of the aluminum backplate that need to be removed. There are also several plastic clips that need to be gently "pinched" with needle-nose pliers to release the circuit board from the backplate. This can be tricky and I recommend applying gentle upward pressure at each one with your fingers (while pinching with pliers) to separate the P-Board.

Then it is a matter of de-soldering the defective module from the P-board and replacing with the new one. Remember, this unit has lead-free solder so you need to be patient when de-soldering so you do not damage the P-board...

While the P-Board is removed, ensure you check for shorts on ALL of the zener diodes and transistors in the 15V, Vda, and Vsus circuits...

As I stated, the main problem with my TV was the MC201 module, but I did have a couple of other "basic" parts to replace too...

Good luck.

Hello All,

I posted this in the G20/G25 board but it looks like I should have posted it here.

My P50G25 has been working relatively well since I bought it in mid April 2010. The only problem I had was a high-pitched noise when I first purchased the TV which was fixed quickly and freely by a tech by putting in a new Power Board.

Well, I went to turn it on yesterday after it was off for a couple of days and heard a pop followed by the dreaded 10-blink LED 'error message'.

I unplugged everything from the TV and left it unplugged for about an hour. I turned it back on, with only the power plugged in, and started receiving 4-blinks from the LED.

I called Panasonic and they basically said that even though it was less than 14-months old it is more than 12-months old and isn't covered by the warranty. Naturally, I should have purchased the extended warranty but didn't realize quite how prevalent these issues were.

In any case, I've decided to go the DIY route and ordered both new Power and SC boards for a total of $200. Hopefully this will fix the problem or I will need to drop another $200 on new A and SS boards.

I am going to try to document the fixing procedure so that others with the same problem can be helped.

Naturally, any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Also, I've been looking around for the 13th Gen service manual but I'll probably have to cave and purchase that as well.

Thanks,

Michael

Thanks for explaining! I really appreciate your help.

Am going to re-install ebay-repaired SC board on Panny 42 TH PZ700U tomorrow am. (Thanks to all for 7 blink diagnosis info - though I just found this thread regarding Panasonic seemingly cooperating with repairs now - drat! Hope to just get it completed myself now that I've come this far!)

Question is: How do I "...discharge P2/SC2 or P11/SS11 before re-connecting them in order to prevent arcing that may be stored by VSUS voltage." - per troubleshooting flowchart graciously provided by those within this site?
Also plan on trying to upgrade firmware as stated.

Many thanks in advance!