Master thread for Panasonic plasma not turning on - Page 41

Hi kdh05,
You're brilliant! It's working... I guess the cap was a little too leaky for the resistor fix, but replacing the caps did the trick! No more ten blinks!
Now, on to the second pz80u, which may not be so easy, as I'm getting some strange voltages at several nodes....

I just change the capacitor for another of 0.6 microF. and now it is working againg. With the photo I could identificate and fix my TH50PZ85U. The fail start in this way, at first, 2 or 3 times dont dont work until I unplug and wait some minutes and after start normally. until it dosent work and then display 10 blinks. After I read your post and others I deciden put hands on and fix it. Tanks a lot for your contribution. I apologize for my very bad english.

I have TH-50PZ80U (Apr 2008) with 2 blink problem. 2 blinks come after I switch on. Relays are clicking. On switching on - Fans will rotate for few sec and then shut off. I see 15 V initially on Pin1 of P7 connector. It has 1.3 K resistance (with all connected) and I do not think it is a short. Using online manuals replaced A board had no luck. I thought my diagnosis is wrong. Replaced P Main board and again no luck. I had 2 blink with new boards too. I just replaced boards without touching anything else. Replaced D board and with new board I am getting 10 blink problem. Please help and suggest what I can do.

Some more inputs. First - I am not a techie and am diagnosing using online forums like this and manuals. I just removed the new D-board and replaced with my old D-board. After connecting everything the power stayed on (no blinking)! To confirm if this is permanent, I switched off with power plug still connected. When I switched back on - I got 2 blinks. After removing power plug and waiting for few mins the blink is gone. Is this because I did not switch on TV for very long time? I had this problem for over 4 weeks now!!
Appreciate your inputs.

Correction - with new D -board I am getting 9 blinks. As per manual it says defective D board. Trying to talk to the supplier.

Even if you get a working D-board, you will probably be back to 2-blinks, which is a common problem with the PZ series due to a surface-mount capacitor.

You may wish to start here, and carefully review the posts by unspun01 and especially kdh05. His post here is exceptionally helpful. Also, this post summarizes things.

I have a TC-P42GT25 that is showing the blinking light of death - 4 blinks - after only 7 months of light usage. Being still under warranty, I have taken it into an authorized service center for repair.

My question is, do these service centers treat your expensive purchases respectfully or do they tend to rough them up during the repair process? My plasma TV has not a single blemish on it, not on the bezel, stand, back panel, nowhere, and I am afraid that it will not be returned to me in this condition. This particular service center had TV's strewn all over the place in a crowded fashion in the front part of the store.

A few years back I had to ship a camcorder to a service center for repair as part of a recall, and when I got it back it was scratched on the bottom (I assume due to shuffling it around on a workbench of some sort).

First, I want to say thanks for all the information here. I have the TH-42PZ80UA and the dreaded 10 blinks. After contacting Panasonic and getting no where, I decided to fix the TV myself.
I took off the power board and looked the the chip pictured by kdh05 on page 38. Looking at the back of the power board, there appears to be some discoloration on the solder. My question is should I:
A: Try to replace the MCx01 board, the one with the A30C5 on it.
B: Replace the 1uf cap on the small board (I would rather replace the the whole MCx01 board since I have little experience).
C: Replace the whole power board.

Part 2: Where the hell do I find these things, any of them?

Thanks in advance and thanks for all the informative posts!

I have a P50G10 Plasma purchased December 2009 at a Best Buy near Pittsburgh PA, date of manufacture is November 2009. Yesterday it would not turn on, had 5 blinks. I tried unplugging it and plugging back in, thinking it needed to be reset. I pressed the power button, it made a snap/spark/ozone type of sound/smell, and of course would not turn on. I unplugged it and moved it to the floor.

I called Panasonic, gave them model, symptoms, etc. She asked if i was using HDMI cables (yes), asked me to try plugging it straight into the wall with no cables hooked up. I did that, hit the power, another big snap/spark/burn/ozone smell, and two blinks. From what i could find in this thread, both 5 blinks and 2 blinks relate to the same board. Hopefully, that didn't make the situation worse.

Having reviewed briefly here, I asked if there were any extraordinary circumstances, warranty, etc., in other words, is this a widely recognized problem of some sort. She said "no".

I don't have any background on TVs so i just have to find a service provider now. I don't have an extended warranty so will be paying someone for the repairs.

Does anyone have any idea what this might cost to repair, and does anyone have any repair resource that they'd recommend in my area, north of Pittsburgh, PA?

I have had an interesting experience. I have a small side A/V installing business. In June of 2009 I sold one of these to a customer as part of an integrated 7.1 system with zone 2 background music. A few months ago a bolt of lightning hit within 100 feet of his house and killed the TV. What the unit was doing was bizarre. It would respond to the remote to turn on but when it would power up it would only go to black level. The homeowner did not even notice it when I first spoke to him over the phone. It would stay on for 20 - 30 seconds and turn off. It would then turn itself back on and continue the cycle until the master power button on the TV was pressed. No image at all would come up. Not even the menus. There was also no blink code. The power light was acting as if the unit was working fine. It would come on and stay solid red. A call to Panasonic connected me to a local authorized service technician. He described the symptoms the Panasonic who said it was "either this board, this board, or both." I did not know which two boards he was referring to. One board was around $200 and the other was over $1,000. The $1,000 part was the more likely culprit and it was on back order, of course. After almost a month of waiting the homeowner grew impatient as Panasonic could not even provide an approximate date for shipment. He decided to get a new TV. He was wary of Panasonic so I got him a 70" Sharp Aquos. The 735 unit because he had no interest in 3D. He is happy now because he has a bigger TV than his dad's 65" Samsung that I sold to him several years prior. He did not like being tied with his father. After installing the Aquos we had to address what to do with the 160 pound plasma paperweight on his floor. He had no interest in waiting for the other part and sinking ~$1,500 into something that may or may not work afterwards. It did not feel right to just throw it out so he told me to take it and "do whatever with it, I don't care." I took it home and put it in the garage. When the weather grew colder I brought it in the house to store it. It is hard to ignore a "stored" item of that size so I started doing some more research into what could be done with it. I downloaded the 180-page service repair manual and started from there. The troubleshooting section led me to the D-Board. I bought that part from ShopJimmydotcom for around $60. That did not change anything. I called the service technician to get his thoughts and he said that in the meantime the other part had come in. It was the A-Board which is essentially the motherboard with all the input ports and connections on it. He said that he was willing to sell me that part for his cost but there was no guarantee that it was the issue. His cost was still over $400 dollars. For an unemployed father of two college student, that was impossible. I was able to find a few sources for the part online that listed the cost anywhere between $500 and $800 after a $250 core credit but very few dealers had the part in stock. I kept looking around and came to realize that the part number I got from the service technician was different from the part number in the unit. I did not look directly at the part number in the unit earlier because I just went off of the numbers in the service manual. There were two visibly identical parts with two different part numbers. The other part number matched what was in my unit and was readily available from several online used part dealers. ShopJimmydotcom had it for $117. I ordered that part and installed it and the unit fired right up. It still had the replaced D-Board in it so I took that out and put the original one back in and the unit still worked so the only part that was bad was the A-Board. I have been using the unit for a little over a week and so-far-so-good. It appears that it needs reconfigured though.

Long story, I know.

The PSA part is - Panasonic Viera, no blink code, no picture, black levels only screen = Bad A-Board

Repaired for approximately $130 in under and hour with warrantied used parts. It was really scary replacing static-sensitive parts in a $6,500 TV while kneeling in my carpeted foyer using a screwdriver to ground myself and the TV.

Hope this helps anyone with a similar issue.

I had an intermittent 10 blink code on power-up that turned into a 10 blink code on plug-in. Troubleshot that fault down to bad 15v on the P-board. Replaced the P-board and now I'm getting no codes on plug in and a 2 flash code on power up.

Here's what I've got so far:
Checked Pin 1 of P7 conector: not shorted, showing 15v.

Troubleshooting guide lists 2 blink error as possible:
1. Missing P15v (nope, it's there)
2. A short of the P15v (nope, not shorted)
3. Wrong diagnostic by the D Board (probably)

So I'm leaning toward D-Board replacement, but has anyone else had the 10 blink to 2 blink fault? Did you replace the D-Board or go another route?

I appreciate the help so far, I wouldn't have made it this far without this forum.

Thanks,

Alex

Interesting that the PZ series uses resistance checks when isolating boards, while the PX series uses voltages with the TV plugged in.

It could be the D-board:

Had Geek Squad out to assess the P50G10. They believe it's the SC board, said there were three "burns" on the board. I wasn't home so i didn't see it myself. Supposed to be coming next week to replace it. Will update at that time.

They said the concern was that if somehow the display/panel was actually shorted, and caused the Board failure, that the TV would not be repairable. Rolling the dice and hoping for the best!

Help! My 10 month old Panasonic P58-S2 has been working great since I bought it (Jan., 2011). However, things changed today. I powered it on (TV service via Charter cable), picture came on for a couple of seconds, and then a loud cracking/snapping sound came out of the TV, picture went black & sound went off. Tried to turn the power on (both by remote & button on front of TV) and nothing happens. There's a small white square just to the right of the power switch (3rd. white square to the rt.) and it blinks 3 times & temporarily goes off, then comes back on again. Does this continually. Unplugged the power cord from the wall, waited a minute or two, plugged it back in, pushed the power switch, and nothing comes on except for the small, blinking red light (3 blinks). I did some "searching" here at AVS but there's so much to view that I didn't locate an answer for this specific 3 blinking red light problem. I would appreciate any advice/info. from any of you that might know/be aware of this problem and let me know what the solution is. Yes, my warranty should be in effect as the TV is only 10 months old & it has the 1 yr. factory warranty. Thanks in advance for any help provided.

According to this Panasonic S2 Technical Guide, it is most likely one of the C-boards, but could also be the A-board or the panel.

Best to have Panasonic take care of it under warranty.

Just got off the phone with Panasonic Customer Service explaining my 3-red light, no power coming on, problem. Had to FAX them a copy of my sales receipt to show that my TV was bought less than a yr. ago. The Viera falls into their Concierge Service so they will provide "in-home" service to my rural (NW Tn.) home next Tues. The company they are sending is: A & E Signature Service. I have never heard of them and have no idea of what city they are coming from. Have any of you heard of/had experience with this repair co.? If so, were they reputable, competent, and know what they were doing? I'm just hoping they're able to solve my problem quickly & professionally. Thanks.

Got the 10 blink LED after pressing power on TH42PZ700U. Gonna copy over my posts from another website, since no one has answered it or replied there.

Post 1
So, I ended up opening the tv last week and trying the 10 blinking light flowchart to find the defective board(s) from the very end of this manual. link below

www dot scribd dot com/doc/68238934/25/Reset-Procedure <-cant post urls

For LED blinks 10 times after pressing the power button (TH42PZ700U)

step 1 I believe was "yes"
when I plugged in the power the tv would click on, the SC LED SS LED would turn on, but then slowly dim to off after about 20/30 secs.

Step 2
If I remember correctly, I think the LED was solid, for a few seconds, then it would start blinking, I think I was a little confused at the time, and wasn't sure if this was yes or no. I did end up ordering a $10 PB board just in case, still waiting for this to arrive. (update below, I remembered this incorrectly)

Step 3
I burrowed a multi meter from work, a Velleman DVM850BL Digital Multimeter. Here is an image of it.

www dot moneymachines dot com/multimeter.jpg

I couldn't find much info online for testing circuit boards, everything I read said that the board schematics should say where to ground the meter. I tried a bunch of different configurations, and I think I was able to read some volts with the positive red line was plugged into the 10ADC port and dial set to 20m on the right side. when testing TP3504 on the H board the meter flashed a bunch of different numbers very fast and it hit a max of 6+ volts for a like a milli second. I am not sure if the voltage is supposed to be under 5 volts or if I was even doing it right. All the other ways I tried the meter, it wouldn't read anything and was just around 0 or .1 or something. I was just grounding it on a metal part/frame of the tv. Anyways, I assumed this was yes and moved on.

Step4 (last page)
Set the meter the same as in step 3 and got a super quick reading of around max 11+ volts. So I guess "yes".

Step 5
read a max of 6+ volt again, so again "yes". I ordered a $99 DH board, that has a warranty and free return if I don't need it.

Just thought I would share in case anyways has any other ideas, or to tell me I did it wrong. I will keep this updated after I try those 2 boards once they arrive.





Post 2
ok, well I guess I will update.

Got my 2 parts/boards in the mail yesterday. PB board(fan control) and DG board(tuner and HDMI inputs). Anyways, neither of them fixed the issue Still got the 10 blinking lights.


update for step 2 from the previous post, I re did this step and it made no change to the tv, the power LED does not come on at all, until I press the power button then it blinks 10 times as usual. I have never seen the fans come on since getting the 10 blinks. Same result with old and new board.

However I did figure out the multi meter. I guess I was doing it wrong before.

using this meter

www dot moneymachines dot com/multimeter.jpg
replace the "dot" with "."

I put the positive red line in the VmA input on the right and set the dial to 20m on the left side. and grounded it on a metal part of the tv. I was then reading 5 volts for a few seconds on the noted locations in step3. and around 9 volts at the noted location in step 4 of the link.

However these steps are sort of worded vaguely.

"Unplug the TV and connect PB30. Disconnect H2 on the H board. Place your meter on TP3504 (*2)(SUB5V)on the H board(See fig.1). Plug in the TV and turn it on. Is there 5V present?"

"(*2) Expect this voltage to be present for a couple of seconds only."


When following the steps, disconnecting inputs on certain boards, and plugging in the tv, I would meter the 5v for a few seconds, but "turning on the tv" (pressing the power button) didnt seem to have any affect on the voltage. The voltage would just always disappear after a few seconds no matter if I pressed the power button or not, the 5v would appear a couple seconds after plugging the tv in, and then always fade off a few seconds later. so not sure if this step is "yes" or "no".

However, if I kept all the boards intact and all inputs connected, and meter the locations the 5v and 9v would stay constant, but if i pressed the power button, the voltage would slowly die. I think this was the case for both voltage locations, I know it did it with at least one. Anyways, I ordered a $30 H board, because that seems like the only other solution I could think of, according to this manual.

www dot scribd dot com/doc/68238934/25/Reset-Procedure


Any other suggestions/ideas?

I'll update after trying the H board.

Hey all, I have read this entire thread, and can't find my problem.

I have the 42pz80u, and I get ZERO blink LED. When I press power, I get a black level screen, I can hear the fan kick on, and the power light comes on solid. I can't get any kind of menus or any display, and the power LED never blinks.

Any ideas?

Usually that symptom indicates a bad logic board, which is usually the A-board.

Have a P50G10 that had 6 blinking lights. Replaced the SD, SC, SU, and SS boards and now it powers up fine. But I have a vertical line about 4" wide on the right side of the screen. Looks to be the 2nd ribbon cable on the C1 board.

Tried reseating it, but problem is still there. If the board is bad should I be getting a blinking light code?

Could this have been bad along with the the other boards I replaced?

Also it seems as if the SC board was the culprit, but I just replaced them all since I had to take it apart. Also SC board is about impossible to find which leads me to believe that's the most common one to fail.

Thanks in advance for any help offered...

It could be the C-board, but be aware that it could also be the plasma panel itself. The ribbon cable between the C-board and panel has an embedded IC, which sometimes goes bad, and creates lines.

Trying another C-board is usually inexpensive. Panel replacement is expensive.

$20 for the C-board, so I'll try that first. If the ribbon is bad I assume that can't be fixed and the panel would need to be replaced, correct?

I am not a electronics expert who can do de-soldering as done by others. I replaced the P-board hoping it would solve the issue. Are u suggesting that the P-board I got may have same issues as the one I have due to which the blink issue is not resolved. I got the board from ShopJimmy. Again - as I said I am no expert and I cannot tell which board is defective and which one is good. Any suggestions?

Took one week for Panasonic to get a Service Tech. to my house. Took him about an hour to inspect it, run some tests, & call Panasonic Tech. Dept. to get advice & order parts for it. He wanted to order: "Drivers" & an "A" Board but they wouldn't comply with his request for the Drivers. Told him to install the A Board first & if that didn't fix the problem they would send him Drivers next. He's afraid the Drivers may be what caused the A Board to go bad & it might happen to the new A Board he's about to install. Another wk. to 2 wks. of downtime for my TV.
The 3 blinking red lights I first reported has now become 10 blinking red lights when he plugged it in today. I'm pretty disappointed in a new (10 month old) TV to have this problem and how long it takes to get service & parts. Wish Panny would provide a loaner to me while all this is going on. I'll post further info. as things evolve.

According to this Panasonic document, Page 10-11, it appears you have correctly tested for a short and voltage at pin1 on P7, and determined either the P-board or D-board was defective. The replacement boards are either also defective, or there is something else going on with your TV.

It seems something else is shutting down your TV, and killing the 15V supply. You have replaced the A, D, and P boards, so that seems to leave the SC, SS, or PB boards. I would try to isolate the other boards, and see if your TV stays up. Maybe work on the right-side of the flowchart, assuming a short circuit, and performing those tests to determine if any of the other boards are faulty.

I have not yet replaced D-board. THe one I got was defective. I concluded this based on seeing 2-blink turn to 9-blink. I want to confirm if getting new D-board is right thing or should I bring up a techie.

I just replaced the D-board and attempted another power up with the same 2 blink result.

"2 Blink SOS:
Pin 62 of the CPU IC9003 monitors the 15v line. During normal operation pin 62 is normally kept high. If the 15v is missing or shorted, a low is provided to pin 62. As a result, the unit shuts down and the power LED blinks 2 times."

I checked Pins 1&2 of P25 (heading to D-board) and upon plug in they show ~2volts on standby power that trickles off after the 15 second plug in cycle ends. When I go to power on, pins 1&2 jump around finally stabilizing at no more than 2 volts and then trickle off from there as the 2 blink codes flashes.

So now I'm back to thinking P board issue although the difference this time is that it's making it through plug in and fails on power up at P25 pins 1&2. Maybe those 2 pins are going to 15v but not staying there long enough to power the D Board and that triggers the 2 blink SOS code.

So bad P-board again in a new spot?

Just to add:
On power up, the fans do spin for a few seconds before the TV shuts down with the 2 blink code

I would try another properly-functioning D-board before calling in a tech, if it is inexpensive. If there were no shorts, Panasonic suggests the D or P board as being the problem.

update from post #1217 [ www dot .avsforum dot com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=21196456#post21196456 ]

So I replaced the H board, and still no change. Still have 10 blink error code after pressing the power button on my TH42PZ700U.

I did notice some new things though. When I plug in the power, I hear what I guess the relay click on, as usual. But if I let it sit there for about 30 secs, I then hear the relay click again, If I then press the power on button, I hear another click right when I press it. the power LED then stays on solid for about 3-4 times longer than usual, maybe somewhere around 7-8 seconds, the fans then start to spin up, for a couple secs, then it clicks again and starts blinking again. If I just plug in the power, and immediately hit the on button, all this same stuff happens but it happens much faster. Except there isn't those additional relay clicks either. It does this with all 3 of the new boards installed (PB, DG, and H), and with the original boards as well.

Right before I closed up the tv again, I noticed the post from kdh05 about the cap on MCx01 . There are about 7 boards on my P board that look somewhat like that image, but nothing that looks exactly like that, so I have no idea what cap/board would need to be replaced or if I could even do that, looks microscopic. I didn't see till later that people were mentioning MC301, till after I closed the tv, so not sure If I even have that one.

Just to be certain, I also did the test from pg. 75 from this manual
www dot scribd dot com/doc/68238934/25/Reset-Procedure
for the SC and SS board and they both turned up "NO", even though the first step from that page, with the DG board, leads me the other direction with "YES"

Anyways, I guess I am going to return the boards that I can for a refund, I wish I knew if the boards I bought were properly functioning or not, or if it really is a different problem. I suppose I will perhaps have a technician take a look at it. But I don't think it will be worth it to spend anymore money/time on this, beyond that. Unless someone knows an easy fix.

I know that Panasonic will possible repair this TV for free if it is a 7 blink code, because the P boards were faulty, even though my diagnosis doesn't point directly to my issue being with the P board, if a technician finds that it is the P board, will Panasonic still cover the repair? Even though it is a 10 blink code?

Thanks for any help.