Master thread for Panasonic plasma not turning on - Page 42

An update, Geek Squad replaced the SC board today, that fixed my problem. Labor $150, Board $204, various taxes brought the total to $376. Hopefully all will be well. The TV seems to be fine.

The part was SC board TXNSC1EDUU, which shows up in places like shopjimmy for under $100, but I don't have enough knowledge of TVs to mess around with them. Computers, yes. TVs, no.

Started getting ten blinking lights one month after warranty expired. Called Panasonic, no help. Ordered some boards, was able to narrow it down to SC Board TNPA5105. Replaced this board with one from e-bay for 30 bucks, TV is working fine.

Has anyone fixed a V10 with a 1 blink code?

I have searched and searched but very very rarely find people that get a 1 blink pattern. For a long time it would fail to power on out of standby (lots of clicks, no panel illumination) and holding the power button and cycling a few times would bring the panel online fine (where it would run for hours and hours without problem until the next power cycle)

Today that trend ended and it is taking 20+ minutes of power cycling to get the TV powered up. Being a frustrated electrical engineer I decided to see if I couldn't dig deeper, so I procured the 12th gen technical guide and V10 service manuals.

I've tested the STB5V circuit as well as the SUB* voltage circuits which all appear to be fine. The (sparse) info on the 1 blink code suggests this is a "STB 5V Sense Time Out" or "Panel Status" failure. Typically "loss of communication" to the IC9003 which appears to be a Panasonic ASIC.


I'm at a loss. It looks like the P-board checks out, and it looks like the timings and levels of the power rails and voltage signaling lines are fine. I wondered if it was a fault in IC555 triggering the condition, but that should trigger a 10 blinks condition.


Anyone hit the 1 blink code? Is the solution an a-board replacement? I'm hoping not because the 58" V10 a-boards seem to be extremely scarce :doh:

Frustrated as heck.

After A&E Signature Service Rep. inspected my TV he called Panasonic for what he thought would be the necessary parts to repair my TV. I just received from Panasonic, Kent, Wa.) a SC Panel Complete (Part.#TXNSC1LYUU). Also got a package from Sears Holding Co., Round Rock, Tx., a SD Memory Card (Panasonic TCP5852). The instructions say this is: 2010 Plasma Firmware to prevent shorts on the 15V load line. Firmware will update and prevent the TV can't turn on and the Power LED blinks either 4,7, or 10 times problem from reoccurring. The repair man is scheduled back to my house this Tues. (Nov.22) to install these parts in an effort to fix my TV. I hope they work. Is anyone here familiar with the Firmware Update I have mentioned above? Will it in fact keep the dreaded "Blinking Red Lights Of Death" from happening again to my 10 month old Panasonic TC-P58 S2? I certainly hope it works.

Purchased a Panasonic TH-50PZ85U at the end of April 2008 and had been enjoying it up until very recently. Started to get the issue others have mentioned about not being able to power off/on the TV (2 blink issue) without letting it remain off for a period of time. This began a month or two ago. At that time I also noticed static type wavy lines (2) running from bottom toward top when the TV was on. A week ago the TV just quit powering on now matter what I did or how long it was left off.
Called Panasonic and all they said was it's out of warrantee and they'd refer me to authorized, local repair places. I live in central NJ and based on my zip code they provided only 3 choices: the first was a repair place in Brooklyn, NY (an hour away that does not service NJ), the second a place in Colonia NJ (no answer), and the third just a guy named "Joe Blanks" in Keansburg, NJ (they could not provide any phone number for him) which is fairly close to me. It sounded like a joke when they said it and of course it turns out there is no Joe Blanks repair service in NJ. Amazing that this is all Panasonic "Plasma Concierge" service could provide.
It was about this time I turned to the web and found this forum documenting the issues. I am not a technician like many of you so I won't be repairing it myself, but want to say THANKS for enlightening me about the problems and potential solutions.
I used the info you all have provided to call back to our wonderful "Plasma Concierge" service and demand some form of support. They said if I got a repair quote from an authorized Pany repair service (I was easily able to find a local, veteran owned service myself on the web - you're pathetic Panasonic) and fax that along with my sales receipt to "Management" they might be able to extend coverage or do something with the repair. In case anyone is interested the fax # provided was 757-382-4606.
Have the repair service coming tomorrow and we'll see what happens. This issue does not sound good for me, but thanks again for all the info...

TC-P42S1

Bought at Amazon on black friday 2009 $650.

No sign of a problem. Had it on. Into the kitchen come back and find it shut off. No response. Unplug the stuff for a min. Got the 10 blink code.

My mom is pretty good at results when pissed. Microwave died a couple months ago so were on a roll but that was a Samsung.

nweibley- I just recently encountered the 1 blink of death on my TC-P50G10, took it into the shop and the diagnosis is that I will need to get the A-Board replaced. Total cost of parts & labor - $300.

I also called Panasonic's Customer Service Concierge to see if they'd pay for it, nope, their best resolution was to look on their website and find a tv with a 35% discount. I don't think I'll be going back to Panasonic for their horrible customer service alone.

If anyone would like to take what Panasonic has offered me and choose a TV from their website minus 35%, let me know....

Just unboxed my 60st30 and after 30 min of use it's giving me 7 blinks. We're not off to a good start.

I picked up a th50pz80u from CL with 10 blinks at plug-in. All checks point to the P board. I'd like to try to fix this board before I pay the price for another one. If I can even find one. I've read through the info on the MC301 fix. If you did this I'd like to know did you replace all the caps on it or just one? Also do I need to do the 4.7 resistor add on also?
The Shack has a number of 1uf caps and 4,7 resistors. They have different specs and different material. Can someone give more info on the ones I need to get? Thanks

Update: I was looking at replacing the P board anyway so thought I had nothing to lose by trying this. It is a soldering challnge and I haven't done anything like this in years. I spent about $30 at The Shack for what I needed to do the job.(iron,solder and such)
It took me most of the day and night to get the MC301 off of the P board and replace the cap in your pic with a 1.0uf Tantalum Capacitor 35WVDC. My soldering job was not pretty. About midnight thinking I'll have to get this put of the way till I find a P board at the price I'll willing to pay I plugged it in.
To my suprise it completed the prestart. Wondering what blink code I get next I hit power. To my shock it powers on. Hooked up the HDMI from my cable box and adjusted some settings and all seems well. (fingers crossed)

Thanks to you and others that put in the time to fix this.

Just to sum up....TV is now fixed.

Here's what I went through:

1. Ordered a replacement P Board to correct 10 blink: TV had 2 blink code on power-up with new P Board.
2. Ordered a D Board after troubleshooting: Same 2 blink result
3. Sent original P Board to eBay trade-in service, got the swap out board within a week.
4. Plugged in the remanufactured P-Board with replaced D Board: 9 code blink
5. Swapped out replaced D Board with original D Board and powered up: TV is fixed

Hopefully the follow-up stuff can help someone else when they come across these problems. It's unfortunate that you can order replacement boards that don't work out of the box which can lead you down the wrong road in troubleshooting these SOS codes. Overall I'm very happy with the eBay P board swapout service.

I too have a P50G10 with a 1-blink light code. There is very little information regarding a 1-blink light code out there. Although I did come across a somewhat related post of a guy who mentioned that his fans were very dusty. I took a look at my fans and they are filled with dust. It's still mounted on the wall so I need to find extra help in getting it down safely but I am going to try that first. This TV is weeks away from fully dying as of now, it takes sometimes 40x times to turn it on, and other times it comes on at the first attempt. Doesn't make sense. Of course, being out of warranty, Panasonic wants nothing to do with me - I will never even look at Panasonic again.

I am going to try to see if the self-service menu can shed some light on it, try de-dusting the TV in entirety and if all else fails, I'll purchase the A-board.

Does anyone else have anything else to add?

Last night i powered down the Panasonic G25 only to hear a popping sound!
My display is now stricken with the blinking power light. Specifically it blinks 10 times.

After doing some research it appears that the boards have fried! IRRITATING! but at least the buzzing on the bright images is gone now!

Anyhow, i will be calling my retailer Monday. I believe they might just swap out my TV for the new one? If they do not have a G25 available (which the probably do not), they will give me something else.

Anything you can recommend that is similar value and quality?

Thanks.

Keep you posted!

-Evan

After reading all I could about the ten blink error I downloaded the service manual for my TH-42PZ85U and did the troubleshooting as directed. My 10 blinks start at plug in and the manual says "replace the power supply board". As I was unable to find a replacement board and was not happy with the idea of a used or even new board that probably had the same weak part, I found a firm that repairs these boards for $85 plus shipping. (Noho electronics, Hollywood, CA) Sent my P board and the plug in filter part also to Noho, just got it back and installed it. I get the exact same problem. At plug in the relays click twice and the 10 blink starts. Rats! Prior testing showed that the pins on the P6 connector which should supply 15 volts (pins 7,8,&9) were only putting out 43.4 mv, so I thought I had found the problem. I guess I can open the set back up and check that 15 volt section again to see if I am now getting the correct 15 volts, but I wonder if anyone else has dealt with Noho, and if so was there service good or bad?

There is one good thing about ordering the board on eBay ... if it is defective, you have eBay's Buyer Protection to get a full refund. Sorry about your outcome with a repair company.

OK, now I'm going to sound like a hot head, but let me tell you why I have quit using ebay. I bought an engine and transmission thru ebay (cost 1800 including shipping). The unit came from Canada from a seller who imports container loads of Japanese drive trains with "50K or less" miles on them. The engine I got was not the one shown in the ad and advertised as "this is the exact unit you are bidding on". Shipping was $300 and I paid the entire $1800 thru paypal. When I was able to prove the unit was damaged and not as advertised, paypal's only remedy was for me to ship the unit back at my expense which would have cost me $500 plus the cost of hiring an export firm to get the item thru customs as I am not a import/export business. I decided to cut my losses and wound up doing a total rebuild. Some guarantees are not worth much.

Re-testing the repaired power board with all plugs connected I get no voltage at P6, pin 7 at plug in, not even a blip. Disconnecting P6 and testing again still no voltage. Noho electronics says there are many other possible shorts which will give this result. Strange that the service manual flow chart is quite clear that if no voltage shows at P6, pin 7 at plug in the fix is to replace the power board. Noho claims they ran a monitor with this repaired board for 24 hours and all was good. When a dead conflict exists between the repair manual and a service shop someone is wrong, the question becomes which one? Noho will accept return of the board, but if they test it as good, they will charge 15% and shipping. As I can not be present for the test, guess I'm stuck.

Further testing reveals the if I disconnect P7, the relays still click just the same, but I do not get any blink code. If I leave P7 connected and disconnect each other connector on the P board (except power input of course) I still get the 10 blink. Anyone have ideas?

Hi rustfarmer;
It's quite possible that the A-board is no longer getting the power it needs to generate the error code blinks. The P7 connector supplies the 5V standby to the A-board, which in turn generates the blinks. With no P7 supply, you wouldn't get any blinking.
One thing to double check: when you're measuring P6 (pins 7,8, & 9) for the 15 volts, you MUST connect the voltmeter first before plugging in the TV. Reason: when there's a fault detected (like your 10 blinks), the the detection circuit triggers a shutdown, so the 15V signal will only last for between 5 seconds and 25 seconds after plugging in the unit. I ended up buying clips for my voltmeter to make a secure connection, so I could free up my hands to plug in the TV while watching the meter. Clumsy and time consuming, especially since you really want to discharge the 'big caps' before each plug-in.

Thanks for your response. I thought the A board likely generated the error blinks, but with the P7 connected I can unplug any other connector and get the 10 blinks and with voltmeter connected as you suggest, I get no voltage blip with an analog meter back-probing pin 7,8 or 9 of P6, and using a digital meter I get a surge of 40 mv at these pins, with P6 connected or disconnected and clipping to the pin on the P board. The service manual is clear that 15 volts should be present at plug in, but Noho electronics that rebuilt my P board claims that any fault in other boards can also cause this condition. When you say the big caps should be discharged prior to plugin, why and can this be done by shorting the power plug leads or how?

Hi rustfarmer,
The only other thing the manual suggests is to remove the P6 connector and do the same check. If you see 15V with the P6 connector removed, that means a short on another board was pulling it down. I would also suggest another experiment removing the P6 and the P25 (to D-Board) together, then repeat the plug-in and voltage check: the reason is that on the schematic, the 15V goes to both these boards. You might also, for grins, check the TP7 probe point with the same power-up test, looking for 15V. If there's 15V there, it means they definitely didn't fix your board properly.
As for the 'big caps', they are C612 and C613, discharged by applying a 1-2kohm resistor across TP1 and TP2. Don't use too small a resistor or they'll arc and drastically shorten the life of the caps.

The symptoms (difficult turn on, unplugging helps) all point to failing capacitors, especially since it is getting worse. This is extremely frustrating because caps are ludicrously cheap and easy to replace... the problem is finding the failing cap.

After testing everything on the p board I decided to go for a hail Mary and replace it.... problem persisted. That leads me to believe the problem really is on the a board, but the 5V stb and 3.3V rails both check out fine on the a board according to my fluke meter.

I am fed up. The replacement boards are around 600 where they are in stock. A local TV repair shop has a lead on replacement boards for 300, but they want to charge 200 labor to replace it.

If the TV didnt turn on at all anymore I would start reverse engineering the a board power circuitry and checking caps (or replacing all electrolytics) but I am hesitant to do so now given it is currently still somewhat usable.

I still have a working Sony KDE-42XBR950 from 2005. My Panasonic V10 is dead in 2 years. Unacceptable, I am going back to Sony after this debacle.

Tried disconnecting P6 and P25 at same time and no change. Tried TP7 and no voltage at plug in. I'm getting close to the dreaded trip to a authorized Panny service center. Any last ditch ideas or tests? I still suspect P board, but the service manual gives no other tests, so I may have been ripped off on the repaired board, although in fairness they did replace a ton of parts including 3 transformers, several caps, ect.

According to this document, you need the ETX2MM702MF.

This board seems scarce. I found the board offered by Encompass for $165, and is returnable.

There is a thread for your problem here that seems to point to the power supply.

It appears that your Noho board might be defective, but you might not be able to prove it unless you try another board.

Thanks Tomwil for your response but I find the board you mention shows zero availability. This is what I found everywhere I searched, and that, coupled with the fact that a new part is likely no better than my board which failed after just two years made me think a rebuilt might be better. As these boards seem so hard to find one might think they were crap to begin with. I notice that the slightly larger plasmas used two of these boards. Wish I was knowledgeable enough to do component level repair.

This is the manual I used.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/46124232/T...GPH11DU-Chasis

Page 25. I heard the relays at plug-in. I did the test then for the heck of it I did it like the relays did not click. There was 3.2v. So both test pointed to the P board. I found the same problem of availability and the cost for a
50PZ80. This may not help but I haven't seen you mention the 3.5v.

Thanks for that thought, I will check for the 3.2 as a second indicator of P board status. Anyone know of a super reliable repair person for these boards?

Hi rustfarmer;
I found the same thing... basically boards unavailable anywhere. I read that even the 'authorized service centers' can only get these on back-order.
In any event, definitely check, as DavidOH said, all the voltages coming into the board, on P52. I can't remember the values I had measured, but if you post yours I can confirm when I get home at look at my notes. It's possible the inputs from the P(AC) board are bad, which would definitely make the P(MAIN) board not work.

Bought this from Sears on 1/22/10. Last night it shut off and won't turn on. Does the 10 blink thing in a continuous series until I unplug it. Even after I unplug it it still blinks for awhile. I've had this less than two years. Panasonic's initial response (on-line chat with representative) was to have it looked at by an authorized repair center. Nice. These manufacturers should be mandated to provide more than a one year warranty for items over a certain price. How much sense does it make to provide the same warranty for a toaster you do for a big screen tv. Anyway... it appears the most likely cause for this is one of the boards? I saw that some people have sent the board to some Ebay provider with some success. I'm not a techie so my abilities will be very limited. Any ideas or suggestions? Thank you in advance.

Hi, This is my first post. Forgive me if I have made any errors in format.

TV is Panasonic TH-42pz85U with 11 blink code. It won't turn on for more than 3 seconds after unpluging it. I have read many of the posts here to learn more about my problem as well as other similar problems. I have done some troubleshooting and discovered the following.

With the back panel removed the TV works every time. (3 in a row so far)
With the back panel on the TV fails to work each and every time. (11 blink code) I have tried this many times with many variables. Like plugging directly into the wall or power strip. Different inputs and no inputs. All failed with 11 blink code. I was able to observe one time that all 5 fans failed to start or even move a little with the back panel on the TV. I only observed this once and do not know if this was happening or not on all other failures. The fans do move freely and operate normally with the rear panel off. I have looked to see if there is any binding or pinching when the panel goes on and all looks OK.

If this is a faulty PB board (fan controller board) then why would it fail only when the panel is on the TV? Should I replace this board and hope my problem goes away? I can't see why it should. If I replace the PB board (TNPA4243AH) are the last two letters (AH) important to match?

This TV is a little over 2 years old and no warantee. The manufacture date is February 2008. I bought the TV new and it has never been moved until I started trouble shooting.

Thank You for your help.