Master thread for Panasonic plasma not turning on - Page 47

Solved. The information may help others.
Used those two manuals:

elektrotanya.com/panasonic_tc-p50gt25_chassis_gpf13du.pdf/download.html
elektrotanya.com/panasonic_tc-p42s2_s2-series_13th-generation_2010_tech-guide_training.pdf/download.html

One blink points to the A-board being defective. Got a replacement for $28 on ebay.

So I replaced the P-board. No joy same problem. Returned the P-board for a 10% restocking fee and the shipping.

I was about to order the A-board, but decided to play a little more. I was actually there about a week ago, but never pressed the power button. I thought the power led would be lit like on my Sony.

Here's the thing, on the A-board there are 3 connectors you can unplug and the TV will still function. A1 --> K-board, A51 --> GH-board, A52 --> GS-board. This will eliminate these 3 boards from the problem. I unplugged all three. No more blinking power light. I pushed the power button by reaching around the TV while metering the 15V. A relay clicked and now I have 15V. So I looked around the TV at the front and to my total surprise the initial setup screen was displayed!

OK so now plug the connectors back in one at a time to find the errant board. It's A52 connection to the GS-board. What's the GS-board. Turns out to be the SD card reader at the front of the TV. I don't use the SD card slot so I just left the connector off and buttoned the back back up. Thank goodness for power screw drivers. There's a total of 41 screws involved.

All this and probably the simplest board in the whole TV was bad. I could probably repair it, why bother? Keep it in mind that any board in the TV can bring down the right voltage and cause the A-board to issue SOS 10 blinks!

Working good now.

SD

Dear Genius',

I have a 58S2 purchased 14 months ago. Loud pop and now no picture and 10 blinking. I've read many pages of this forum but haven't seen much related to the S2's. So far all I've done is taken off the rear panel to look for obvious burn marks and did not see anything unusual.

Would anyone be so kind as to offer a step by step procedure on what I should do and in what sequence? Thanks in advance guys!

I don't know anything about the TC-P58S2 except it's big! I did a search on electrotanya.com and came up with the service manual for the TC-P58S1, here:
http://elektrotanya.com/panasonic_tc.../download.html

The set appears to be similar to other Panasonic TV's P-board, A-board etc. The 10 blinks indicates a missing voltage of either the +15V, Sub5V, Sub3.3V or the Sub9V. This circuit is in the A-board and is there to prevent catastrophic problems, like a fire.

The A-board appears to be configured somewhat like my TH-C50HD, but the connectors are numbered differently and the only connector I can relate too is A1 which goes to the K-board that runs the remote receiver, the power button and the power LED. Unplugging this will turn off the power LED so you would need to use a meter to see if any other voltages re-appeared with it disconnected.

A loud pop says something reached it's limit. Usually a capacitor, but resisters can and thermal fuses have been known to complain when they go.

I would carefully inspect the circuit boards for black smudges and for puffed up electrolytic capacitors. You can find many examples in this forum.

Finally there is a 12th generation training manual that isn't for your specific model, but seems to be configured like yours. There is a lot of trouble shooting info there and board isolation procedures. This may be your best bet.
http://elektrotanya.com/panasonic_tc.../download.html

Also check out GUY2528's links above to the 13th generation manuals, they may more closely cover your model.

Elektrotanya allows you to download 2 manuals a day. (hint: if you have more than 1 computer on a network they can each download 2)

In any case do not operate the TV for more than 30 seconds with connectors unplugged.
Good luck.

I had a chance to look at the manuals that GUY2528 posted links too and they do seem to be closer to your TV.

Thanks for the response! I'll check into your links. I do have a voltmeter, but I'm not sure I'd know what to do. I looked for black smudges and didn't see anything but I will check the capacitors to see if they're "bulgy".

Would you be suggesting that I replace the board if I'm able to determine which one it is or do you suggest I just replace the part that failed?

Thanks again and please let me know if anyone else has other ideas!

Call me stupid, but I don't know how to open the files from your links. I feel sheepish!

Your not the first to have that problem. On the lower right you'll see this. (This file is downloadable free of charge from the site.... processing) Just wait and it will change
to (Get manual).

thank you!

that manual is somewhat close to my S2, but still quite different. plus, this is quite a bit of jibberish to me. any other recommendations guys?

There are 2 manuals listed. One is the service manual and the other a training manual. If they are both jibberish to you, then I think you need to enlist the aid of an electronically gifted friend. It's going to be real hard for someone here to trouble shoot your problem with out exchanging photos etc. Especially since the manuals aren't exactly for your model. The training manual has trouble shooting steps for the various SOS codes you need to extrapolate those to your model. But the 10 blink error code can be caused by almost any board in the system as I found out.
The only other option is the shot gun approach. Replace the A-board or it's equivalent and cross your fingers. Then move on to the next most likely board. Some vendors will allow you to return boards within 30 days for a restocking fee. You could possibly order more than 1 board and return the ones that don't fix the problem.
You also might post some photos of the back of your set so others here can get an idea of what you're dealing with.
Even with the shot gun method you'll need to make sure you know how to remove the various cables. The ribbon cables can be tricky and usually have a flip up cap of some sort that clamps the cable in the socket. If you just pull you can do damage. The latest training manuals show some of these, but not the earlier generation ones.

Thanks! That's good info. I'll have to post some pics of the unit and see what you guys think. I have a friend getting his doctorate in electrical engineering, so If certain testing needs to be done it's possible I can recruit him. Thanks again guys!

Here's some pics of my 58S2...if anybody has any tips on where to start that would be great. it's a 10 blinker.

Do you have small children?Have you inspected your SD card slot? The 13th generation training guide mentions several times that the SD card slot can cause 10 blinks. Any metal object or bent pins in there can short the 3.3V and cause the problem. In any event, find out if 15V is output at pin 7,8,or 9 of connector P6 of the P board. If no voltage is output, the P board may be defective.
If the F_STB_15V voltage is OK, it’s likely that the A board is defective. The P-board P6 connector seems to be the same on most of the TV's. The board will have the pins and their purpose printed in a diagrammed near the connector. The voltage will only be present for a short period because the SOS will tell the board to shut off.
In my set I could isolate the K-board, GS-board (SD card slot) and the GH-board by unplugging the connectors. I can't tell if your A-board has the equivalent ones. See if there's a cable coming from the SD card slot to the A-board that you can disconnect to remove it from the circuit.
That's all I got. Maybe someone with more knowledge will jump in.

Cool...thanks! Can you tell me which board is which? Is there an identification of each? I sure appreciate all the help guys!

I have now joined the 'crowd'...panny died after 14 months. I'm going through my credit card for extended warranty and will post aftermath. After researching "blinking red light of death" for panny plasmas I was truly appalled and felt sorry for all the people who got pooched by this. Only a small percentage of households post in A/V forums so I have to assume there are a good number of consumers afflicted by this problem. It was fascinating to read all the DIY fix-it attempts and I do have one question when I turn in the unit for repair estimate and it is this: Is there some 'firmware' that prevents over-current through HDMI paths or something like that, and wouldn't that have been installed via the auto-firmware upgrade feature? I read a number of posts that urged the panel be checked for firmware after repair. Thanks for any info.

P.S. I got the 4 blink "grim reaper" followed by 10 blink when trying power reset...No fan action and the infamous double-click is all I can muster. Removed all inputs and re-plugged panel in different socket in different room. Don't laugh....This is the first thing Panny support will suggest. Anyhow, I'll let the pros' and the c/c company sort it out.

kdh05 - I don't know how you narrowed the problem to these flea-size caps, but kudos on solving the issue along with the quick-dirty test.

I only had a 3.3kOhm resistor and measured the voltage before and after installing it between pin 12 on the module and the cap that goes to pin 13 on the chip (TEA1611). Before installation, voltage measured 12.4V - after installation it measured 12.8V The additional .4V was sufficient enough for TEA1611 to start (it started on the 2nd try after 30sec-1min pause). I do have a couple of points to highlight though:

1. The voltage measured on the failing CAP is NOT between the CAP and chassis ground - that measures -58V. It's a floating ground in reference to T301. I clipped on R311 for my voltmeter ground to measure the correct +12V to +15V.

2. I would NOT float or remove the cap to test the circuit. That misstep shorted Q301 and Q302 and blew F301 :-( Now I'm out another $20, but poke and learn I guess. Now I have an excuse to remove the P board and do the job right!

3. Testing the CAPs with my Fluke (not ESR meter or readings) gave 1.01uF for the good one and 1.2uF for the failing one.

TH-46PZ80U

Thanks to the two members here posting about the MC301/MC201 cap fault, I have very easily fixed the above set, which was a 2-blinker.

After doing the resistor trick to confirm, which made the set come right up & work perfectly, I went back in & replaced the relevant caps on both MC201/301 modules. I used Panasonic ECQ-B series 1uf/50V polyester films, and I have taken PHOTOS of the repaired modules for reference, but don't yet have photo posting priviledges here. So, would like to email them to one of you who can post them for me. Used a bit of RTV silicone to secure the caps, and also expanded the solderable area a bit, via scraping enamel with a scalpel blade, to give the cap leads a better chance of not tearing traces.

OBSERVATIONS: I have been a high end home audio & recording gear service tech for 30 years, with more than 25 of that doing a fair amount of surface mount work. So, I am quite familiar with reliability & quality of component types & brands. Hence, the following:

1) On the MC301/201 cap issue- 1uf is a HUGE cap value for a ceramic cap of any size, and WAY huge for an SMD 603-size ceramic, so I believe the ceramic dielectric layers are just too darn thin on these caps for them to EVER be reliable beyond a few years.

2) From reading about the symptoms of all of the various "blinker" models discussed in this thread(and I read all 1200+ postings yesterday), I suspect that even the newest models still use the same or similar modules in the power supply, using that doomed ceramic cap. Pansonic or it's oem for these boards needs to grow a brain & change to a different cap type for the modules, and won't have reliable sets until they do.

3) Due to the function of the MC301/201 modules, and the deterioration/failure pattern of those caps, I think there is a fair possibility that failures of other boards(when they are in fact at fault, and not simply pointed to by erroneous blinks), especially the SD & SU, are not unlikely to be provoked to fail by the instabilty of voltages that may be caused by the defective module caps. In any case, ANY time you work on one of these sets, whatever the actual failure, REPLACE the cap on each of those modules automatically.

4) On other capacitors used: Don't know about other models, but the PZ80 that I fixed uses, very surprisingly, Nippon Chemicon(empty little chevron logo on small values, filled in with name on larger) and even a few Nichicon electrolytic caps on all boards. These two brands are the MOST RELIABLE lytic caps on earth, and can be held to be beyond suspicion of fault when troubleshooting, unless horribly zapped by a failing fet or etc. There are also a good many Panasonic/Matsushita caps, which are far less reliable, but the grades/values used can be counted on for at least ten years, even in the supply. Honestly, I was very pleasantly surprised by the brand/grade choices on lytic caps when I first opened up this tv.

Lost top half screen, horizontally. Narrowed it down to the SU board. Ordered one from internet, and presto, it works! Had a problem with aligning the ribbon cables but thanks to marcgr, got it sorted out. GREAT forum, thanks Guys!

hi,
i have the panasonic th-50pz800u with the etx2mm704mg n - npx704mg-1

with the 10 blinking lights in it,anyone fixed one of this? this is the n version.

and can other models be interchange with this? for my model?...



any help ,will appreciate!

thanks

Beginning with this post will probably solve your problem.

can i replace with:
1uf cap like those bellow?

i have 5 of them,1uf,
but they are 25v,16v,100v,160v,250v
what will be best to use?


also,i see most of the problem is at mc301 ?


thanks!

th-50pz800u with the etx2mm704mg n

Ok, so my parents just purchased a brand new Panasonic P-55GT30 a month ago. They had the tv plugged into a surge protector but apparently it stormed over the weekend and now the tv won't power on. If I unplug it from the wall, wait 30 seconds, and then plug it in again, I can hear a click and can see light coming from the optical port for about 30 seconds. The optical port light then goes off and then the tv constantly clicks on and off every 5 seconds or so (the optical port light goes on and off). The power light on the front of the tv does not come on and there is no picture. Where do I go from here????? Do I try to fix it myself? Do I try to have it serviced under warranty? Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Hello everybody,

Today I was given a TH37PX60U (April 2006 build date) and was told that it would randomly shut off after 15-30min of watching.

I searched around and found the TH-42PA20 shutdown thread, however, I'm not having the same symptoms (loud buzzing, flashing red light, etc). It just shuts off without notice or warning.

I get picture out of the TV for about 20 minutes then it just turns off randomly like I was told. I assume this is a faulty power supply, but hoping somebody can point me in the right direction of other possibilities and what it would take to make it stop shutting off. Also, can somebody tell me what board I might need to replace?

Thanks guys!

Under warranty.

If it's working fine before it shuts off. I would first take the back off and make sure it's clean. You may have a heat problem.

I have a 42" that had the 10 blinks at plug in. Found the P board was bad and had NoHo electronics rebuild it and still would not work. Called Panny cust service and was given a claim # and told to take it to an authorized service center and if they confirmed problem corporate might agree to furnish parts free even thou a year out of warranty. Service guy confirmed still bad P board, but also high resistance A board, filed report to Panny and they sent both replacement boards free. Service guy istalled and tested set ($150) and it now works great. FYI the 50 inch model uses 2 of the same P boards while the 42 or smaller uses one. This would appear to be the reason the 42 fails most often.

based on your info ,
i fixed my power supply! i had 10 blinking light,

is been working for about 1 hour,with no problems!

thanks to you my good friend ! spent 0.80 cents at frys electronics plus tax
and my 5 minute work.

regards,

bosanci28

Thankyou for the fix. I had the 10 blink. Replaced 1uf cap on MC301. Is working great. Never would have found it. Nice forum. Thanks

Hi all and thx for your help, i've Ã* pani 42pz85u with 10 blinks, changed the cap and now got 5 blinks... Any ideas are welcome.
Regards

This should help.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/46124232/T...GPH11DU-Chasis