Master thread for Panasonic plasma not turning on - Page 48

Thx for your reply but my chassis is a GPF11DE.
Do you think i can apply the same method?
Regards

I think the last letter is just a contry code. Can't hurt to try.

Ok thx

Check the FET's on the SC & SS boards.
I am betting (based on previous experience) you have a bad SC Board.

Well surprisingly the 4.7k ohm resistor trick on the etx2mm702mf board on the mc201 module worked! How long do you guys expect this to last before the TEA1611t chip needs to be changed out? Yes I was getting the 2 blink code.

It is NOT the TEA1611 chip that goes bad. It's the tiny ceramic chip cap attached to pin 13 of the chip that is the culprit. As I mentioned on the previous page of this thread, any tech or design engineer with half a brain should spot instantly that a ceramic cap of that 0603 size will NEVER be reliable with such a large 1uf value. A non-SMD ceramic cap of 1uf/50V is the size of a quarter & 3-4 times as thick. So, whoever designed that module, used for MC201 & MC301, was either fresh out of college or just plain stupid.

BE SURE TO REPLACE THE CAPS ON BOTH MODULES, or you WILL have repeat failures. A 1uf/50v polyester film cap, non-SMD, is the most reliable replacement. A Panasonic ECQ-V or ECQ-B series is a solid choice, which Panasonic ironically didn't use themselves. As I said before, PM me & I will be happy to send photos of the installed film caps on the modules.

I really do think that these two stupid little caps, with the voltage fluctuations they can cause during their potentially long death throes, are causing the majority of other major component failures. Now that I have replaced them on my 46PZ80U, I am expecting no further trouble from this set for some years, as long as I keep the fans vacuumed out periodically.

Hey guys, well since I got the oher Panny up and going, (thank you Stephensank and all other for your help and knowledge) it's on to my other panny TC-P42S1 with a intermittant 1 blink failure at startup. It's hit-and-miss. Sometimes it will power up perfectly with a flawless picture. But Troubleshooting the set with the Panasonic troubleshoot chart for sure leads to the A board TNPH0786. Anyone had experience troubleshooting this board to find a cure besides just out right replacing the A board?

When it's going to fail on power up, the fans do spin momentarly and I am getting all voltages to the board (as what I can tell), The digital audio lights up on the board briefly as well, so I must be getting 3.3 15v and others. I do also see a slight flicker on the screen and a momentary 200v to the SC and SS boards.

My thoughts is a cap thats not up to snuff, too much leakage or some other discrete part on the board that should not be there like the dreaded MC20x modules on the ETX2mm702MF power supplies.

Anyway if someone knows the path to look on these A boards let us know, I see quite a few people having this issue with this board as well and they sell alot so it seems a common failure on this model plasma.
Thanks

Paraphrasing a PM that I sent yesterday to freakaftr8, for everyone else's benefit, I have a very, very strong intuition that the problem with the S1 is not on the A board, but on the power supply board. Since the board is clearly(via a bit of research) made by the same contractor as those in the PZ80, etc. with the MC201/301 modules, I think there is a HIGH probability that the S1, despite not using similar modules, and other newer models that "blink", have similar voltage/current sensing circuits on the primary side of the switchmode power supplies. Whether or not these sensing circuits use a TEA1611 or a different chip, it seems VERY likely to me that there are similarly too-high-value/too-small-size ceramic SMD chip caps used on the voltage threshold sensing pin/pins of whatever chip is/are used for the function. If this is indeed the case, these newer models are just as likely to give erroneous blink signals and have spontaneous failures of IGBT's & MOSFET's in the x-sus/y-sus circuits, and generally be similarly intermittent and flaky, ALL due to the voltage fluctuations/spikes/dips, especially on the V-SUS line, caused by ever-increasing & erratic current leakage in the ceramic chip caps as they slowly die. If anyone can find a link to service manual downloads for S1 or other post-PZ-series sets, I can have a look through & identify with some certainty if such caps exist in these sets.

The TC-P42S1 Service Manual can be found here. Thanks for helping!

Hi, my eyes are bleeding, just read thru 6 pages of posts searching for a resolution to my 5 blink trouble code. My set is a th50px60u (2006 vintage)
Problem started with loud crack noise (small firecracker sound) set went off ,code blink was 4 indicating Power board,, purchased new replacement ,installed it and same thing loud crack noise ,no pic,no sound. This time I smelled a burning odor. NOW I have a 5 blink code,and cannot find any component that produced the burning odor. The 5 blink flashing indicates the "D" board in trouble.
Now for my questions,, could I have had two issues initially 4 blinks and 5 blinks . Can the program send two trouble codes or one at a time. I hesitate buying a replacement for the "D" board and learn there are additional board problems. The th50px seems to be a rare bird ,most posting is all about 42 pz's
In fact 5 and 4 . blink codes are rare, I've had problems finding a service manual
for this chassis can you steer me to one
Yes, I'm frustrated.
Thanks for any help

CLIFF

Try this.

http://www.scribd.com/leon_benny/d/87145151-TH-50PX60U

Hi DavidOH Thank you for the link,,,I'm digging,, and getting more frustrated. Now I have no led code flashing and the flow chart points to my "new" power board. Do you know if there is a protection feature that would protect the power board from damage if there's a short in another board using the power supply source. I'm wondering if there's a circuit that took out my new board,,,and how to find it. As I mentioned there was a "loud" cracking noise and a burned odor and I can't find that component.

CLIFF

There are two caps, one on the MC301 and the MC201. I had to replace both.

The crack sound would make me think fuse. Did you check them. Looking at a pic of the ps I see 4 of them.

Hi David, good suggestion, There are 2 glass and 3 are ceramic ,all ohm ok out of holders.

CLIFF

@ David, what baffles me is something gave off the burn't odor and I can't find the component with signs of charring. The capacitors are not showing sign's of doming . So far I have 69 bucks invested so I think I'll invest another 60 and order a "D" board. That is what the 5 blink code suggested .
Still depressed though.

CLIFF.

A cracking sound will NEVER be from a fuse! In this situation, it will very certainly be either a capacitor exploding or a MOSFET/IGBT exploding, almost certianly in the y-sus or x-sus circuits(SC board, etc.). AS I HAVE SAID BEFORE, these failures are pretty damn surely being provoked by the stupidly chosen 1uf SMD ceramic caps on the PS board(MC301/201 modules in the PZ/PX series). So, EVEN IF YOU GET A NEW PS board, if these caps are not replaced with proper non-smd film caps, you will have more troubles. Obviously, now that you have a shorted/exploded component(s) on the SC or etc. board, this needs to be dealt with first, but then you MUST have those two caps replaced if you don't want more trouble.

Stephensank is spot on on thus issue. Just ordered my Panasonic poly film caps to replace those dreaded smds. It will take some skill but I have done magic with the soldering iron so hopefully all will be well.

On the subject of the P42S1, I've had a look at the schematics & service manual, and it is a very substantially different supply versus the PX/PZ series. HOWEVER, the board is FULL of 0.47uf & 1uf ceramic chip caps, which are not easy to correspond to circuit position, due to the bonehead manual writer failing to put any component values/voltages on the actual schematic, so you have to look for the reference numbers on the parts list to find out what each one is. So, I'm afraid I don't have any easy answer as to most likely bad cap/caps, except to say that ALL of those 0.47 & 1uf chip caps are BADLY chosen & likely to fail. That is just too large for a tiny chip cap, and the ceramic dielectric layers will simply be too thin to be reliable by other than blind luck.

@ Stephen, your miles ahead of me , I'm old enough to remember Bell labs first transistor in 65. lol. I'm still better with tubes than transistors. Anyway I identified the MC301 and MC 201. are you suggesting replacing those ? If either one is defective will it take out an sus or sc board. If one of the X or Y boards have failed could have they taken out my new power board?

CLIFF .

Hopefully, the shorted whatever on SC, SS, or etc., will not have damaged the new PS board, which has pretty elaborate over-current protection circuitry, but I'd say there's a 10% chance it may have been damaged.

Whatever is damaged in x-sus or y-sus should be easily revealed by doing some ohmmeter measurements with each board removed. Just look for shorts between C & E pins of any IGBT's and D & S pins on mosfets. These pins are marked on the boards underneath. And also measure for shorted electrolytic caps, of course.

Whether you use your old or new PS board, YES, you should replace those that 1uf smd cap on both the MC201 & MC301 modules, unless you like having you tv explode once or twice a year.;-)

I'm only 50, but I "cut my teeth" on RCA & McIntosh tube amps, so I know what you mean.

Hehehe @ Stephen ,I go back to when today's stereo was called "bi-noral" and a tone arm had two pickup head's. Back to the panny issue,,made an observation today, inserting the power cable I detected the power relays pull in and then sound like they drop out. When I depress the power switch the cooling fans start ,run 3 sec's. and stop. I do have a 5v output. Wish the hell I had an actual wiring schematic

CLIFF.

My TC-P42G10 turns on, but I get no menus or inputs. I think the main board aka HDMI Board was fried in a lightning storm the other night. I get no red blinks. I'm wondering if anyone can help me verify the part number so I can order a replacement part. A repair will cost $500! I just can't seem to figure out what part # I need.

@Headspace, A lightning strike is covered by home owners insurance. Deductable probably applies to the claim. I can't help you with part numbers but just think you should see what the cost factors are taking into account the amount of deductable ,the cost of DIY parts and the cost at the tv repair service. It may not be practicable to fix it yourself.
Just a suggestion

CLIFF

This may help.

http://www.shopjimmy.com/panasonic-tc-p42g10

Thanks guys. I ordered the main board, and attempted install myself. I have decent technical know-how. The set did power up, but I have a scrambled picture. See this pic: http://imgur.com/WGQe6

I reinstalled it several times, always get a scrambled picture. Do you think this could be a bad board? Did I install improperly?

I didn't screw everything back in, I basically got the board plugged in, and gave it a shot. Is possible that by screwing everything back in it may tighten up some connections? I wanted to be sure it worked before i screw in 40 screws.

My insurance DID cover the replacement of the TV. I'd prefer to repair this one on the cheap and buy a projecter this fall when I move.

Thanks for any insight/feedback you can provide.

Assuming you have the board's screws in & tight, should be fine. It seems to me that you need to check the part numbers printed physically on the new board with those on the old board. It looks to me like you'll find a different suffix on the new one's number, indicating it's for a different size screen. I can't think of anything outside the main board's processing that could cause the symptom shown.

Let me know what you find out. I have the same tv and power flickered during storm and I have no display now either. No red light errors. Turns on, back light comes on, no display including input and volume then relay kicks off and red light stays on. power button does nothing then a few minutes latter it shuts down. I was thinking the power supply was messed up but maybe your on the right track.

Hi, let me say quickly this forum, and the knowledge your spreading is great.
I read every page so far, I have the ten blinks on a TH-42pz80u.
I am about to attempt the fix by soldering a 1uf cap to the MC201, and MC301 boards.
I have a couple questions:
My radio shack is rubbish, and only had a NON polarized 50v 1uf cap
(radio shack part no. 272-0996) Will this part work being non polarized?

I have some questions about removal of the mc201, and 301 little boards...
are there any tricks to removing the board from the heat sink? all the little plastic pins holding it on seem like it will be tedious to remove, is there a trick?

Im a handy guy to have around, I fix cars, engines, rewire circuits, im great with mechanical things, heavy metal mechanical stuff, so im somewhat hesitant to plunge right into this repair without first asking for advice.

Anyone have any suggestions as per the actual solder repair?
I have a small soldering iron, a solder sucker, plenty of light, and shaky hands for tools, am I missing anything? Any hints or suggestions as to what tools I may need, or techniques to utilize will be ingested by this unit and replicated with thanks.

The cap you found is an electrolytic of unknown origin, meaning, god knows if it will last ten years or ten minutes. I would STRONGLY urge you to search ebay for "1uf polyester", which is a film cap, of 25, 50 or 63V rating. Film caps are non-polarised, and generally infinitely reliable.

The circuit traces in question are very, very tiny, and a solder sucker is NOT applicable, and you need an iron with a reasonably fine point tip, but with balls, i.e., 40-50W & controlled at 700 degrees F. Best & safest way to remove the stock, tiny SMD cap is to add a little fresh solder(rosin core, lead/tin blend, as lead free stuff is crap) to each end, then lay the iron down along the cap to melt both sides at once & gently nudge the cap sideways toward the top end of the little board. Then, trim the leads of the new film cap to length & form so as to be able to lay it more or less down & spaced to match the solder points of the old cap. Next, flow some fresh solder onto the end of each cap lead, so that the end is coated, but not blobbed. Add a bit of fresh solder to the iron tip, hold the cap over the two little board connections, then melt each wire into each spot. Finally, add a bit of silicone rubber caulk/adhesive between the cap body & board to give it support, so as not to stress the board traces by flapping around.

Above all, BE DELICATE & VERY CAREFUL.