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Master thread for Panasonic plasma not turning on - Page 51

post #1501 of 1980
a friend of mine had a problem where his tv would not turn on with the r/c or power button on the tv.
He called tech service and they gave hin a sequence of buttons to push on the TV. It worked, and is still working.
The tech guy called the process a "Reset".
You might try to see if some one on this forum knows what the Reset for your tv is. Or call tech svce to get it.
Good Luck
post #1502 of 1980
Quote:
Originally Posted by btc9800 View Post

a friend of mine had a problem where his tv would not turn on with the r/c or power button on the tv.
He called tech service and they gave hin a sequence of buttons to push on the TV. It worked, and is still working.
The tech guy called the process a "Reset".
You might try to see if some one on this forum knows what the Reset for your tv is. Or call tech svce to get it.
Good Luck

Thanks for this tip, although I doubt it would work in my case, as my 2 fuses are blown on the power board. I tested them with my multimeter, although if I replaced them, this may work. I do have the Service manual for the TH-42PX75U, I'll have to look through it and see if I can find this sequence of buttons.

Hopefully someone will chime in who knows how to do it.

Thanks again-
post #1503 of 1980
Looking for a second opinion/advice.

My TH-50PZ750U just died after 4 yrs 2 mos (not bad, i guess). I have the 7-blinks failure. I followed the trouble shooting guide and traced the problem to the SU board. I ordered a new board and replaced it. The TV worked fine for about 10 minutes, and then failed again (7-blinks). Thinking that i may have gotten a bad part, i ordered another one, and replaced it again. That one failed as well. I had a Panasonic tech come by today to look at the TV, and he said that the plasma panel is bad, and that is what's causing the SU board to fail. Does this sound reasonable? It seems strange to me, since the TV turns on with the SU board removed. If it really is the plasma panel, then i guess this TV is toast since it'll cost me as much as a new TV to repair. Is there anything else i can try before i trash an otherwise perfect TV?
post #1504 of 1980
I had the same problem a few weeks ago with the 7 blinking lights on my plasma, I also traced the fault to the SU board, i ordered a replacement, but before i replaced it i also changed the small caps on the MC201/301 boards. Since doing this i have had no problems and the tv is in daily use, i would suggest reading a few earlier posts on here as they could be on of the reasons that you are having problems with boards blowing (see post 1440 and 1447)
post #1505 of 1980
I'm hoping someone can help me out with this problem:

I need some new fuses for my Panasonic TH-42PX75U plasma and the one's I ordered before were the same "LittleFuse" that Panasonic uses.

I got them from Digikey (215 series): http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0215008.MXP/F4613-ND/777443

I found these on eBay and they look to be the same specs and everything, just a different series (218 series):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130656408311&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123


Can someone please tell me if this will be a problem?

The specs look identical from what I can see, but I don't have an electrical engineering degree, nor much experience with fuses.

Thanks everyone
post #1506 of 1980
I apologize but I couldn't solve this issue by searching - if so, please link me to the appropriate place

We just got hit by a famous central FL thunderstorm and now my Panasonic 50" PZ800U just power cycles.

Upon replugging it in, you hear a typical click process, and in the stage where the screen gets a bit of a light up, but no box in the upper left corner telling you what the input is.

After about 30 seconds, the power shuts off, and then back on again (automatically).

This will be the 3rd time I've had issues with this set. First time I needed the A-Board replaced (twice-first was a dud).
Second was a black picture bar taking up 1/3 of screen.

Now I have this power cycle issue.
Set was manufactured October 2008 and all warranties have expired.

Should I have it fixed?

VERY FRUSTRATED, I love panasonic.
post #1507 of 1980
My special thanks for this fix. I've been surfing the internet whole day trying to find a fix for my TH-42PZ800E giving 2 red led blinks after the ten green startup led blinks. I've found the service manual on http://servicemanuals.pro/servicemanuals/panasonic/plasma/th-42py80p_th-42pz80b_th-42pz80e-9640/summary.html
So I found out I got a 15CVolts SOS.
After spending ths whole afternoon looking for a fix and almost ordered a new PS board or the MC30x boards, I've found this capacitor replacing fix. I wanted to trie this immediately but it was not clear to me which board needed a replacement capacitor; MC201 and/or MC301 so I did both (see picture) 448 and guess what ... YES it works again. I just hope it still does tomorrow. Many thanks from a happy guy from Belgium!
post #1508 of 1980
Quote:
Originally Posted by pittisit View Post

I apologize but I couldn't solve this issue by searching - if so, please link me to the appropriate place
We just got hit by a famous central FL thunderstorm and now my Panasonic 50" PZ800U just power cycles.
Upon replugging it in, you hear a typical click process, and in the stage where the screen gets a bit of a light up, but no box in the upper left corner telling you what the input is.
After about 30 seconds, the power shuts off, and then back on again (automatically).
This will be the 3rd time I've had issues with this set. First time I needed the A-Board replaced (twice-first was a dud).
Second was a black picture bar taking up 1/3 of screen.
Now I have this power cycle issue.
Set was manufactured October 2008 and all warranties have expired.
Should I have it fixed?
VERY FRUSTRATED, I love panasonic.

Unfortunately, with a clear case of power surge damage like yours, it's highly likely that the A board will be damaged, but not at all unlikely that there may be damage on other boards. It will take a good tech a very careful process of measurement & elimination to resurrect the set, which could get expensive if you are not that tech. However, I must say that I would only ever replace my 46PZ80(not a bit of trouble since I did the film caps on the MC201/301 PS modules) with another PZ series set. Looking at the service manuals for the later models, I feel strongly that nothing would be as reliable as an MC-recapped PZ series, which have excellently chosen components, other than those two stupid little caps, and the picture, of course, is phenomenal.
post #1509 of 1980
Looking at the Risk/Reward, repairing this TV a third time just didn't make economic sense.
I opted for a 5 year service plan on a new LG 50" 50PA6500 - Price was $600.
To repair the Panny could be $350+ and no guarantees that I don't have a fourth issue with the set.
I still dont have guarantees, but I know if I have an issue with the new set over the next 5 years, that I'll be well taken care of with no deductibles.

The picture on the LG isn't as "perfect" out the box, but its pretty damn good. Wife can't tell its any different. I actually think the colors are much more vivid. (yes, I adjusted the levels)

I may have just gotten a lemon PZ. Who knows.

BTW sold the broken Panny for $50 on craigslist. That guy got a steal... But I need it out of the house.
post #1510 of 1980
2008 Panasonic TH50-PZ80U, no problems for 4 years until the other day when the 10 blink issue showed up. A huge thanks goes out to everyone that determined that the issue is on the MC301 board. We replaced the cap on the board with a 1 microfarad 35 Volt cap from Radio Shack, reassembled the tv, plugged in the power cord and no more 10 blinks! It's amazing how a $1.69 part can render a $1800 tv useless. Thanks again for the fix!
post #1511 of 1980
TC-P50G10 Manufactured August 2009. Heard loud Pop and tv shut down. 5-blinks out of power light. No domed caps on any boards. replaced power board no luck. Any advise before ordering A-board.
post #1512 of 1980
hi

I have 2007 model with 5 blinks issue, found this "5 blinks 5v SOS D-Board "

Anybody know what cap/ic/resistor I need to change???
post #1513 of 1980
Quote:
Originally Posted by pamchuck View Post

2008 Panasonic TH50-PZ80U, no problems for 4 years until the other day when the 10 blink issue showed up. A huge thanks goes out to everyone that determined that the issue is on the MC301 board. We replaced the cap on the board with a 1 microfarad 35 Volt cap from Radio Shack, reassembled the tv, plugged in the power cord and no more 10 blinks! It's amazing how a $1.69 part can render a $1800 tv useless. Thanks again for the fix!

Can anyone point to the exact cap that needs to be replaced? I see a lot of pictures of the boards but it'd be nice to have the cap circled or something so we know what we're looking at. Also, what exact part did you get at RS?

My TH46-PZ80U has had the 10 blinks of death for the past 2 weeks. Last week, if I unplugged it and plugged it back in, it would turn back on. Now, not even that works. When I plug in the TV, I hear 2 clicks, then a third. When I don't hear the third, I know the TV will power on. It's that third click that means it's tango uniform.
post #1514 of 1980
my tv is blinking 4 times then 2 then 4 again what does this mean?
post #1515 of 1980
Even after waiting a while for it to cool down? Mine does the same thing and it used to boot right up when you pulled the plug then plug it back in. Now when it happens I have to leave it off (unplugged) for about 20 minutes before it will start back up.
post #1516 of 1980
So I went to RS and bought 2 different caps. One is 1uf 35v tantalum and the other is 1uf 50v electrolytic. I know they're not the film type, but they're all that were available locally and will have to do for now. Which type should I use?

So to summarize how to replace these:

-Remove old SMD caps
-Place new caps leads along the mounts of the old SMD caps (laying flat in a line)
-Solder to board

Anything else?
post #1517 of 1980
New to Board. My 2002 TH-42PWD5 just recently started giving me the 2 red blinks of death. I finally got around to gathering the information to start troubleshooting this problem.

As outlined by Techniwizard in another quite lengthy thread regarding this issue I tried pulling the SU and SD boards away from the SC board. The SD board was the culprit.

A couple of questions:

I've read that all three boards (SC, SU & SD) should be replaced at the same time. Is that a good idea or unnecessary?

Where do people here get their parts?

Thanks,
Glenn
post #1518 of 1980
Quote:
Originally Posted by badfnz View Post

So I went to RS and bought 2 different caps. One is 1uf 35v tantalum and the other is 1uf 50v electrolytic. I know they're not the film type, but they're all that were available locally and will have to do for now. Which type should I use?
So to summarize how to replace these:
-Remove old SMD caps
-Place new caps leads along the mounts of the old SMD caps (laying flat in a line)
-Solder to board
Anything else?

Well I replaced the caps and still no workie. I either have another issue or my solders didn't take. I resoldered them several times just in case but still nothing. Looks like my next step is replacing the board.
post #1519 of 1980
Quote:
Originally Posted by badfnz View Post

Well I replaced the caps and still no workie. I either have another issue or my solders didn't take. I resoldered them several times just in case but still nothing. Looks like my next step is replacing the board.

Did you bear in mind that your new caps are polarised types? Check that you installed the caps with the negative end pointing up toward top edge of each board. Also check very carefully under magnification that you did not damage the circuit foil traces in unsoldering.
post #1520 of 1980
Quote:
Originally Posted by badfnz View Post

Can anyone point to the exact cap that needs to be replaced? I see a lot of pictures of the boards but it'd be nice to have the cap circled or something so we know what we're looking at. Also, what exact part did you get at RS?
My TH46-PZ80U has had the 10 blinks of death for the past 2 weeks. Last week, if I unplugged it and plugged it back in, it would turn back on. Now, not even that works. When I plug in the TV, I hear 2 clicks, then a third. When I don't hear the third, I know the TV will power on. It's that third click that means it's tango uniform.

See my post #1447 & others.

NOTE: NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER do the unplug/plug-in thing to make the tv work for a while again. When those two stupid caps are decayed to the point of sporadic failure, that is when the have the MOST potential to DAMAGE OTHER AREAS/BOARDS! Each of those caps charges up to tell one of the power supplies whether or not to start up, and start causing "jolting" of the Vsus high voltage and the +/-15V power supplies as they get on the borderline of not quite charging to right voltage. If you cycle the set in this condition, you will GREATLY increase the likelihood of hearing loud pops & seeing smoke as IGBT's and mosfets start exploding on other boards.
post #1521 of 1980
After 13 months of owning a TC-P55ST30 I too am faced with it not turning on.

I called Panasonic but they said that the unit is out of warranty since its one month outside of the 12 month warranty and I do not have any kind of extended warranty.

Once plugged in the LED is a constant red and does not blink. I called an authorized repair center and their estimate is around ~$450 for on site labor and board cost.

I see many here have a blinking LED but I'm curious if anyone knows what a constant red LED signifies.
post #1522 of 1980
I have a TC-P58S2 that died with 7 blinks after 18 months. I found a blown power transistor (MOSFET?) blown on the SC board. I'd like to repair the board, but can't find the component anywhere. The part number on the transistor is DG402RP. Any idea where to find this transistor or even a defective SC board?
post #1523 of 1980
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yagisama View Post

After 13 months of owning a TC-P55ST30 I too am faced with it not turning on.
I called Panasonic but they said that the unit is out of warranty since its one month outside of the 12 month warranty and I do not have any kind of extended warranty.
Once plugged in the LED is a constant red and does not blink. I called an authorized repair center and their estimate is around ~$450 for on site labor and board cost.
I see many here have a blinking LED but I'm curious if anyone knows what a constant red LED signifies.
how did you pay for the set?

If you used a major credit card, chances are you have extended warranty coverage automatically. I did this the first time my 50" TH-PZ800U went out due to power surge. Amex was very easy to work with and they gave me a statement credit on the ESTIMATE, about 4 weeks before it was actually fixed. amazing customer service there!

I know Visa Signature does the same thing. Check with the card company you used to buy the set with. Well worth it.
If it's covered have a professional fix it that is certified by Panasonic. This gives you warranty on their work.

My Panny got fried for the third time and I switched manufacturers and got a 5 year extended warranty just in case I am cursed.
post #1524 of 1980
Quote:
Originally Posted by stephensank View Post

See my post #1447 & others.
NOTE: NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER do the unplug/plug-in thing to make the tv work for a while again. When those two stupid caps are decayed to the point of sporadic failure, that is when the have the MOST potential to DAMAGE OTHER AREAS/BOARDS! Each of those caps charges up to tell one of the power supplies whether or not to start up, and start causing "jolting" of the Vsus high voltage and the +/-15V power supplies as they get on the borderline of not quite charging to right voltage. If you cycle the set in this condition, you will GREATLY increase the likelihood of hearing loud pops & seeing smoke as IGBT's and mosfets start exploding on other boards.

Luckily never heard any pops or saw any smoke, but I now know better not to plug it in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stephensank View Post

Did you bear in mind that your new caps are polarised types? Check that you installed the caps with the negative end pointing up toward top edge of each board. Also check very carefully under magnification that you did not damage the circuit foil traces in unsoldering.

Yes, I put the cap with the negative end pointing up. But I think you may be on to something about damaging the circuit during the soldering. I tried to solder and resolder several times to try to get it to work and probably damaged the circuit in the process. I figured I had nothing to lose since the next step would be getting a new power supply. One thing I noticed about your pics and the previous pics posted were that your capacitor was soldered towards the middle of the board, whereas the other pic shows the new capacitor towards the top corner. Am I looking at that right?
post #1525 of 1980
Quote:
Originally Posted by pittisit View Post

how did you pay for the set?
If you used a major credit card, chances are you have extended warranty coverage automatically. I did this the first time my 50" TH-PZ800U went out due to power surge. Amex was very easy to work with and they gave me a statement credit on the ESTIMATE, about 4 weeks before it was actually fixed. amazing customer service there!
I know Visa Signature does the same thing. Check with the card company you used to buy the set with. Well worth it.
If it's covered have a professional fix it that is certified by Panasonic. This gives you warranty on their work.
My Panny got fried for the third time and I switched manufacturers and got a 5 year extended warranty just in case I am cursed.

That's one of the first things I checked and unfortunately my HSBC Mastercard does not give any warranty extensions. I was really hoping that I had used my AmEx.
post #1526 of 1980
Quote:
Originally Posted by badfnz View Post

Luckily never heard any pops or saw any smoke, but I now know better not to plug it in.
Yes, I put the cap with the negative end pointing up. But I think you may be on to something about damaging the circuit during the soldering. I tried to solder and resolder several times to try to get it to work and probably damaged the circuit in the process. I figured I had nothing to lose since the next step would be getting a new power supply. One thing I noticed about your pics and the previous pics posted were that your capacitor was soldered towards the middle of the board, whereas the other pic shows the new capacitor towards the top corner. Am I looking at that right?

Not sure what you mean about the cap placements in my photos. Both are soldered to the same board points & siliconed to the chip for support.

Don't give up hope on the board. I am awfully good at "microsurgical" board repairs, if you think it's gotten beyond your own abilities. But get a good clear look with magnification & strong light, looking also with the light behind the module to shadow the traces, and you can maybe see what's gone on.
post #1527 of 1980
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yagisama View Post

That's one of the first things I checked and unfortunately my HSBC Mastercard does not give any warranty extensions. I was really hoping that I had used my AmEx.

It's pretty darned inexcusable for a company like Panasonic, which clearly has a reputation for design flaws with their plasma sets, to refuse any sort of even partial warranty coverage just a month out. If I were you, I would get on the phone with Panasonic and get as high as you can up the management food chain, saying that you will contact your state attorney general's office about the matter. Once they know that you know the right legal channel, and that they are not in a good position to argue, it's a fair bet that they will extend your coverage.

After going through the service manual for the S series, it looks like, since after my PZ series, whoever is writing the service manuals has decided to have the schematics carry absolutely nothing but component position reference numbers, for which you have to go many pages down to the parts list to find out what the number/value/voltage of any part is. So, without seeing a set in person, it's too darn had for me to see if these later sets have any of the same disastrously over-miniaturised chip capacitors or other stupid part choices. I suspect, though, that the power supply boards on these sets do have the same sorts of unreliable chip caps, causing instabilities that are blowing other components on other boards.
post #1528 of 1980
My TH-46PZ80U won't turn on. 2 blinks. If I hold power button down, it gives 10 blinks. I opened it up, checked resistance between Pin 1 of P7 and ground, and there was some (I think this is supposed to be 0 if there's no problem?). Then i unplugged P6, P7, P12, and P25, and still got some resistance between pin 1 of P7 and ground. Flow chart says Replace the P board.

I'm awful at soldering, so I'd rather go with a repair service. Ebay has them for $85 shipped, which is fine with me. I wanted to make sure nobody here tells me that's a bad idea, that I may have a different problem and would be wasting my money on paying for a P-board repair. Anyone have an opinion?
post #1529 of 1980
To update, I found a local guy (Dave's Premium TV in Clackamas, OR) to fix my p-board for $110. Its working now. He did something to fix the mc210 (did not replace the whole thing, just the chip and something else). Ebay would have probably worked out as well, but it was worth the extra $25 to me for the local guy to do it and power up the tv to make sure it works before paying, and also get same day service. It took him less than an hour.
post #1530 of 1980
Do they sell the MC201 and MC301 boards? Mine look pretty torn up from my soldering work. I think that's the only hope of me actually fixing this thing.
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