Master thread for Panasonic plasma not turning on - Page 52

I'm afraid that if the tech did not replace the specified ceramic chip caps on BOTH the MC201 & MC301 modules, you WILL have future problems, which could turn easily into blown up SS & other boards, due to supply instability caused by those stupid little caps. Replacement of the IC chip on either module is NEVER necessary, in my experience(which is getting to be considerable with PZ sets).

Just ship the whole PS board to me. I can fix the modules. No question. PM me for details.

i have the TC-P50G10 build sept 2009 and have the same problem that power flickered today during a storm. now I have an issue where there are no red light errors, back light comes on, no display including input and volume from the side buttons or the remote (the remote will turn on the set but thats it) i can hear the relay click and red light stays on. power button does nothing then a few minutes latter it shuts down, also i noticed the cooling fans to do not come on, don't remember if they came on right away or not, thought i'd add as much info as possible. pulled the back off and one of the 1400mfd caps on the ps board "appear" to be swollen (haven't tested) but after reading this i'm leaning toward the main board but before I purchase another one (hopefully i can, previous link to one is out of stock) is there a tests i can do to confirm it?

any help would be appreciated.


Edit: just in case someone has the same issue, it turned out to be the main board (or what i like to refer to as the input board only because that is where all your inputs are). found the board on ebay for a reasonable price. the only difference was the last large letter in the part number string was a W and my mine was an A. didn't seem to make a difference because now i'm back in HD heaven. like the post earlier, anyone who has replcaced a motherboard in a PC can do this swap, just have to be gentle with the ribbon cables.

some good info on this site, just wish someone would have responded.
Edited by check50 - 8/16/12 at 9:29am

Was hoping I'd never have to check this thread again but unfortunately my parents th-42pz80u has crapped out again. Different problem this time. Mom went to turn the tv on last night and got nothing. TV powers up, fans kick on, and the screen comes up with a kind of a dark grey picture, but no menu's or any response from there. Eventually the tv cuts itself off and then tries again to turn on but no dice. I called the repair shop I used before to see what kind of warranty they had on their services but it was just 90 days and I'm not paying their prices to swap out a board if that's the only issue. I'm just trying to track down what might be the culprit this time. From a quick scan through here it sounds like it might be the A board but I wanted to get some thoughts from those more knowledgeable. My mom is beyond frustrated at this point and ready to replace the tv, but I want to at least try to repair it so I can maybe sell it on craigslist or something.

hi, I have a tc-p42c2 getting the 10 blinks error, doesn't have a side hdmi but tried switching 1 and 2, tried the unplug hold power button in for 25 seconds reset, called panasonic they said they can't do anything as I have had it over a year, it was made 4/2010 had it about a year 6 months been broken for about a month has about 300-500 hours of use, pretty much only used it on the weekends for netflix movies. read about half of thread so far I've seen some say its the power supply others said they replaced the power supply and it did nto fix it. some say its the a board. some have also done component repair/replacement on boards. I could not find any mc chips on my p board.

Tv makes a loud click after I unplug and try to turn it on, if i leave it plugged in and just hold the power till it turns off when I try to turn it back on no click. stby 5v is there the 15 volt only comes when I try to turn the tv on the high voltage invertor is a little discolored and has a mark on the top left of one side, but that may well be normal. none of the caps look puffed or leaking..

called a repair shop they said they wanted 80 to look at it and if it was what he thought it was, 200-300 for parts depends, thats crazy and I can;t afford it.

I have a multimeter and a soldering iron if anyone has any ideas. not sure how to troubleshoot a tv.

This happened to me. I've had 3 different issues with my pz series set. this was the last one. i ended up selling it (Broken) on CL for $50 because I was tired of the repairs and frustration. Sorry i dont have better news, although i feel a bit better than I'm not the only one with these EXACT same problems.

I'm really curious to know if you or any other PZ owners have had any failure issues AFTER having caps replaced with proper film caps on BOTH the MC201 & MC301 modules on the PS board, other than actual lightning/surge damage.

I changed the a-board on a 42pz80u about 18 months ago. It's still working. Last November I did the cap on the MC301 in a 50pz80u. It's also still working. I'll do the MC201 when and if it needs it.

no blinks would be a fuse???

Not kidding- It needs it NOW. It is literally so inevitable that those caps will fail, and that they will cause unstable operation of the supply, that it is EXTREMELY UNWISE to wait for obvious symptoms, as the pre-obvious instabilities can easily cause major component falures on other boards. I don't even understand why anyone would go to all of the trouble to replace the cap on one module & not replace the other while it's easy. There is no "if it fails". It WILL FAIL.

Good question. If I had the set still I'd take it apart and send you the boards.. Wish i had thought about AVS first.

I have the TH-50PZ800U. Similar to Headspace, a thunderstorm rolled through yesterday and must have done some damage (even though it was plugged into a surge suppressor). The TV turns on, meaning the red light comes on and does not blink, and the screen lights (but stays black), but I don't get any menus or inputs displayed. The other issue is when I try to turn the TV off, I have to hold the power button in for a few seconds, as opposed to just pushing it in quickly. Then, the power light goes off, but a second or two later the TV powers on again. So, I had to ultimately unplug it.

Headspace replaced the mainboard which seemed to fix his issues. Does this seem likely to be my problem as well? I would have thought it would be a power supply issue.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, and I'll also need help with part numbers (whether it be a new power supply or the mainboard).

TV turns on. Power light on steady. Screen flashes. No video. You need an A-Board.

Similar story to several other problems but if I could get some advice on what is wrong with my tv that would be great.

I have a panasonic Th-46PZ80U (manufacture date of November 2008) and earlier today I moved it into my new apartment, it was only in my car for about 15 minutes. When I got it in and tried to turn it on it did nothing. I get 10 blinks of the red light (and the screen never even tries to turn on). I tried plugging into each of the hdmi ports before plugging it back in and tried getting it to turn on with nothing plugged into it (except power) and it does the same thing every time, it blinks 10 times. Anything else I can try or any idea what board needs to be replaced? The screen never flashes or attempts to turn on.

This TV has been absolutely perfect for me for a few years I would love to be able to keep it and I don't really have the money to replace it right now.

Thanks anyone for any help!

Start here, and replace the capacitor on MC301.

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all the feedback.

It turns out that my problem was the A-board I replaced. It turns out it was defective.
The constant blinking LED signified an I2C communication bus error which usually points
to the Main.

I ordered another board from eBay and that one is working like a charm (knock on wood).

I've got a TC-P42S1 that isn't powering on... I have the 10 blink error code as well. So far this is what I've tried.

Testing the P6 connector pins with a DMM... No reading whatsoever there. When I Isolated the SC board, the blink code changed to 6 blinks. What are my next steps? I'd like to get this diagnosed properly without having to pay a tech $150 bucks. Any help appreciated.. Thanks.

This Panasonic document might help.

Not Really.

I've read through that already. It basically just says, "with no power output from the P6 connector, your P-Board might be bad."

might be is hardly definite. I found someone who can diagnose it for 50 bucks, so that's better than accidentally breaking something while I'm checking stuff.

Hi,
i have the same model,but manufacturated in june 2008,and after 4 years june 2012,10 red blinks....so,tomwil,i will test and change the capacitors on the power board,not only MCx01 board ,right?and i will post the result for everybody...this week,any others ideas?thank you....

Let me know how that goes....


Also is there a guide to where I should be getting what voltages, so I can start putting a volt meter to the boards to figure out which board the problem is on? Thanks.

Hi,

Originally I had the 10 blinks of death on my Panasonic TC-P65S2. I ended up replacing the main power supply (ETX2MM813MSM) and it fixed the non-powering on issues.

However, after I got the TV back on, I now get at vertical strip coming from connector CB10 on the TNPA5179 board.

I have tried replacing the video board (TNPH0831AF) and also the C1/C2/C3 Buffer Boards (TNPA5178/TNPA5179/TNPA5180), but the stripe remains.

Vertical Stripe Picture (I put red markings above and below the stripe) and CB10 picture.

http://www.wingert.org/tcp65s2/cb10.jpg
http://www.wingert.org/tcp65s2/stripe.jpg

Anybody have any ideas?

Happy to throw the first person with the right answer a $20 via paypal.

Thanks!
Chris

Strange what you have there. A darker vertical bar that still shows the image.

Possibly from this document, figure 65, you have a bad panel.

But it appears you may not be getting a drive pulse from the A-board.

If replacing the boards did not help, you may want to recheck the cables and connections between the A-board and the C-boards, and also between the A-board and SS-board.

Please let us know what you find. I haven't come across a similar situation in my searches.

Hi,
So,was working 1 day,i turned off,and this morning,same ten blinks,and the tv did not turn on:Then i unplug the HDMI cable from the back of tv,HDMI 1, turned the tv on again,and it works again....but i did not plug the HDMI cable..not yet;this time i will plug the cable in front....

Hi tomwil,

Which is the "A" board?

Thanks!
Chris

A-board = the video board TNPH0831AF that you replaced:

I have a P50G25 that's about two years old. When I press the power button the relay clicks and the power LED stays on steady, but the back light does not turn on and I cannot get to the OSD. The remote works to turn the TV on, but that's it. I have to push the power button on the TV itself for several seconds to turn it off, and doing so causes the relay to click twice (as far as I remember the relay normally only clicks once when turning the TV off).

I experienced this problem twice in the last week when the TV shut off while I was watching and refused to turn back on, exhibiting the symptoms above. After unplugging the power for an hour it turned on just fine, but that trick isn't working now.

Any idea what board needs to be replaced or how I can go about figuring that out? All I could find was this flow chart (below) in the service manual but wanted to see if anyone knew of this issue before I go looking inside the set.

Going by previous posts in this thread, most likely it is the A-board. The flowchart you list seems to point to the A-board, if the SC and SS board's LED are lit.

One difference in your description vs the other posts, is that the screen usually lights up slightly.

Help! required from the U.K., I have a panasonic tx p-50c2b, and guess what, no power no blinks, no nothing, just 3 clicks from the power relay on the p board, can anyone help or advise me on this matter, i am suspecting the a board as we had access to another p board an it does exactly the same thing with this one fitted. I have reasonable electronics knowledge if anyone knows of a component fix, your help will be much appreciated, thanks, Jon