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Master thread for Panasonic plasma not turning on - Page 33

post #961 of 1979
Hey all:
After all the drama in getting this unit here in September/October of last year, the panel was working like a champ until this afternoon. It came on, then there was a small pop, and it turned off, giving the 11 blinking light code.

I unplugged, then tried turning it on again. It came on, then shut off after about 30 seconds, with the same 11 blink code.

This unit has a manufacture date of June, 2010, and is still in warranty. It also has a 3 year Mack extended warranty, so I'm safe either way. Panny service has somebody coming on Wednesday.

The thread here seems to indicate that 11 blinks is the SOS for the fan board: either one or more is broken or the board is fried and the unit is shutting itself off to protect itself. It is well ventilated, and well taken care of. I'm a bit annoyed that it died after 6 months, but these things happen. I had a 3.5 year old Sharp LCD that kicked off a few months ago with a flunky power supply. It died once, and I was able to revive it by a hard reset, but then it died for good 3 months later. I'll post again with the final diagnosis of the 11 blink problem.
post #962 of 1979
10 blinks on my 2009 th-50pz80u was fixed by an ebay refubished power supply board. $129 - instead of $700 at repair shop.
post #963 of 1979
Ok, so last time I posted - my 50" Plasma was giving me 2 blinks and after much research decided to replace the "A" board. I ordered a board for $99 dollars through E-Bay and it arrived in a couple of days. I installed the board and still 2 blinks and no TV.

After holding the power button down for a reset the TV also blinks 10 times - which would indicate a bad power supply!

So my dilema is do I replace the "main" power board or the "sub" power board or both? or do I scrap the TV and by a Sony!

Who else has had 10 blinks and replaced a power supply board? Which board did you replace? The main board is about $120 dollars and the sub is about $20.

However I do still have the 2 blink problem? Could the replacement board be bad too? Can the power supply be causing 2 blinks?

This is so frustrating!
post #964 of 1979
The guy I bought my part from wants to sell me a refurbished power supply for $119 bucks. Has anyone ever purchased a refurb?

http://cgi.ebay.com/REPAIR-SERVICE-E...-/220737969019
post #965 of 1979
Quote:
Originally Posted by Panajunk View Post

The guy I bought my part from wants to sell me a refurbished power supply for $119 bucks. Has anyone ever purchased a refurb?

http://cgi.ebay.com/REPAIR-SERVICE-E...-/220737969019

according to the panasonic power light blinking chart it's the D-board 2008 10G Models :
PX80U / PZ80U / PZ85U / PZ800U / PZ850U


Code:
============================================================ =====================
BLINKS PROBLEM CHECK POINT
============================================================ =====================

1 blink STB 5v SENSE time out A-Board

2 blinks 15v SOS D-Board

3 blinks 3.3v SOS A-Board

4 blinks Power SOS P-Board

5 blinks 5v SOS D-Board

6 blinks Driver SOS 1 SU-Board / SD-Board / SC-Board
(SC Energy Recovery Circuit)

7 blinks Driver SOS 2 SU-Board / SD-Board / SC-Board
(SC Floating Voltage Area)

8 blinks Driver SOS 3 SS-Board / SS2-Board
(SS Energy Recovery Circuit)

9 blinks Communication Error between A-Board / D-Board
Panel-MPU and SYS-MPU

10 blinks Sub 5v SOS / Main 3.3v SOS A-Board
DTV 9v SOS / Tuner Power SOS

11 blinks Fan SOS PB-Board

12 blinks Sound SOS A-Board

13 blinks Communication Error A-Board
with IC8001 (Pesks PRO)
post #966 of 1979
Quote:
Originally Posted by Panajunk View Post

The guy I bought my part from wants to sell me a refurbished power supply for $119 bucks. Has anyone ever purchased a refurb?

http://cgi.ebay.com/REPAIR-SERVICE-E...-/220737969019

This should help you trouble shoot it.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/46124232/T...GPH11DU-Chasis

Then I would try this site for parts.

http://www.shopjimmy.com/
post #967 of 1979
Quote:
Originally Posted by macdoum View Post

Hi,i have a th-50px80u and after reading half of this 29 pages thread and reading a lot on the web, it look like i'm they only one who is red light don't blink!
Is hard to find the faulty board when you don't no where to start. They don't talk about this in the service manual.
When i turn on the tv, the screen light up (no image just a shade) and fade out after 2-3 second but there still a little light, and nothing work not even the off button and unfortunately the red light don't blink.
Did anyone ever have this trouble an know what is was?

I'm having this exact same issue with my TC-P58V10 I purchased in June of last year. Still under warranty, so I'll be calling for tech support.

Mark
post #968 of 1979
my 50s2 bought last nov. got the 10 blinks, the repair people never even tried to fix it here they said the sc board is bad back ordered 2 to 3 weeks. panasonic denies any kind of common problem or firmware update, typical
post #969 of 1979
So is there a definitive part that I can buy on EBay to fix the 7 flashes?
post #970 of 1979
After searching high and low and ordering the wrong part the first time through Electronicz from eBay and arguing about their return policy and still waiting for my refund of $99 I paid them - I've now ordered the correct D board through Useful Parts (www.usefulparts.com) in Canada and the board should be here tomorrow.

I've been without my TV now for three (3) weeks!!

BTW, a consumer cannot purchase parts through Shop Jimmy. Shop Jimmy is for TV technicians only and allows them to exchange and sell used or refurbished parts to each other. In order to purchase parts through them you have to have a TV repair business.

Also, if you're going to order parts through eBay - make sure you order the correct part and make sure you read the return policy. All parts are not returnable and there may be a 20 - 30% restocking fee!

UGH!!!
post #971 of 1979
Shopjimmy will sell to anyone who is willing to buy. I ordered a part through them and I'm no repair technician.
post #972 of 1979
I bought my TC-P50ST30 a couple weeks ago from Best Buy. A couple days ago my tv wouldn't turn on. I would hit the power button on the tv and it would try to turn on, then a second later would shut off. The red power light would come on, you could hear the clicking sound inside the tv trying to turn it on, then it would just shut off. No matter what I did, I couldn't get it to turn on. I thought maybe it had something to do with the hdmi that was connected in the back, so I unplugged it. Only the power cord was plugged in, so I hit the power button again, and nothing.

Long story short, I exchanged my tv at Best Buy, and got a new one with no problems. Within the hour I had my new tv set up on my wall mount and ready to go.

I never got a 6 or 7 or 10 blinking light thing, just a simple "wouldn't turn on" thing.
post #973 of 1979
Quote:
Originally Posted by fraggo View Post

Shopjimmy will sell to anyone who is willing to buy. I ordered a part through them and I'm no repair technician.

I'm not a tech either and I've ordered from them twice.
post #974 of 1979
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidOH View Post

I'm not a tech either and I've ordered from them twice.

I tried to order parts online and the system wouldn't let me. When I called to place an order they said I had to be TV technician with a registered business.
post #975 of 1979
Add another victim to this list. My beloved 42PZ80U got the 2 blinks today. Read this, unplugged it for 2 hours and replugged it in still got 2 blinks. Unplugged HDMI and held reset button and got 10 blinks.

Basically I'm looking to repair this myself. My dad is an electrician so I'm not too worried about that, but what board do I need? People say power supply or D board so I'm assuming it is Panasonic TNPA4439ALS D Board off shopjimmy. But the 10 blinks means the A board too? I'm confused.
post #976 of 1979
Quote:
Originally Posted by mccourt19 View Post

My beloved 42PZ80U got the 2 blinks today ... what board do I need?

Use this post above for an excellent service guide.
post #977 of 1979
Quote:
Originally Posted by mccourt19 View Post

Add another victim to this list. My beloved 42PZ80U got the 2 blinks today. Read this, unplugged it for 2 hours and replugged it in still got 2 blinks. Unplugged HDMI and held reset button and got 10 blinks.

Basically I'm looking to repair this myself. My dad is an electrician so I'm not too worried about that, but what board do I need? People say power supply or D board so I'm assuming it is Panasonic TNPA4439ALS D Board off shopjimmy. But the 10 blinks means the A board too? I'm confused.

Hello Mccourt, I've had the exact same problem as you for about a month now and tracking down parts has been quite a challenge. I have the 50" version of your TV, TH-50PZ80U.

I've already replaced the D board which was supposed to take care of the 2 blink problem - and it didn't! I still have the 2 blink - 10 blink problem. The 10 blink is supposed to be the main power supply, so now I've ordered a refurbished main power supply and will try that.

If the power supply doesn't fix it the TV is going to the junk yard and I'll never buy another Panasonic product as long as I live.

It's going to be a week or so before I get the board, so stay tuned and I'll let you know how I make out after I change the power supply.
post #978 of 1979
Quote:
Originally Posted by Panajunk View Post

My 50" Plasma was giving me 2 blinks and after much research decided to replace the "A" board. I ordered a board for $99 dollars through E-Bay and it arrived in a couple of days. I installed the board and still 2 blinks and no TV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Panajunk View Post

I have the 50" version of your TV, TH-50PZ80U. I've already replaced the D board which was supposed to take care of the 2 blink problem - and it didn't!

Just for clarity, which board did you actually replace, the A-board, the D-board, or both?
post #979 of 1979
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomwil View Post

Just for clarity, which board did you actually replace, the A-board, the D-board, or both?

I replaced both A and D with no luck! And now I'm replacing the main power supply ETX2MM704MG-H. Which by the way is no longer made and finding a used board is next to impossible, so now I'm waiting on a refurbished board to arrive.

This will be my last try.

I'll keep you posted on how I make out.

You have the same main power board as I do (ETX2MM704 MG-H or MG-N) these guys will refurbish your P board for $125 bucks and it takes about two weeks. http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/Default.aspx ship them your board and they'll fix. Unless you have a local shop that does PCB repair.

Also, if any of your capacitors are fried the will appear bulged at the top. Here is a good example of what to look for - http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...1t:429,r:5,s:0 if you look at the tops they should all be straight, flat and smooth.
post #980 of 1979
Quote:
Originally Posted by Panajunk View Post
I replaced both A and D with no luck! And now I'm replacing the main power supply.

This will be my last try.
I really feel for you. It is disappointing to spend money and time on boards and not fix the problem.

The power supply might fix the problem, but be aware that if a short exists on the SS or SC boards, your blinking will continue.

If there is anyway you can follow the troubleshooting steps in the tech guide, pages 9-11 and pages 25-28, you may be able to actually determine which board is bad and needs replacing. This might save you additional cost and grief, and save a great TV.

Best wishes, and please let us know what happens.
post #981 of 1979
TH50PZ800U, bought from Amazon January 2009. No PC plugged in to it EVER. 2 HDMI inputs (cable box, DVD), 1 AV (Wii system). Started to crap out a few weeks ago (wouldn't turn on unless unplugged from the wall for several minutes). Now it's just gone, won't turn on at all. blink blink blink blink blink blink blink blink blink blink

I bought the extended warranty from Panasonic. The tech who came out was not the friendliest, said he had to order the parts then he'd be back. My wife called Panasonic back and gave them an earful (I love Sicilian women).

In order to keep the young wolves at bay, I went out yesterday and bought a Samsung UN40D6000 LCD to hold them over until the Panny is fixed. When it is, the Sammy will replace our 10 y.o. Sony 32" analog CRT in the family room. Assuming I can get the CRT out of the house.

I love the plasma picture but this is the second repair call in 2 years. Disappointing for sure.
post #982 of 1979
I have a TH-42PZ85U. 10 Blinks SOS code. Troubleshooting the TV indicates that I have no 15V on the P-board (from which other 3.3V, 5V, 9V and 30V tuner voltages are derived).

@ rockker post #962:

When you received back the refurbished power supply, did you notice what components on the circuit board were repaired/replaced? I'm just wondering if there were any obvious signs of human repair such as new solder, or flux paste, or different color capacitors, etc... This circuit board is full of smaller PCB "module components" indicated by MCXXX... Were any of these repaired or replaced?

Any information you provide could help me figure out what I need to repair.
post #983 of 1979
@dtvjho posts 896 + 897:

Have you made any progress into the troubleshooting of your power supply?

I have a TH-42PZ85U. 10 Blinks SOS code. I can confirm TP7 on the P-board is missing 15V (from which other 3.3V, 5V, 9V and 30V tuner voltages are derived).

This indicates no voltage at the output of transformer T301, which may also indicate no primary voltage at T301...

Troubleshooting past this gets tricky... I'm not sure where to go next.

Anyone else with any ideas?
post #984 of 1979
Quote:
Originally Posted by unspun01 View Post
@ rockker post #962:

When you received back the refurbished power supply, did you notice what components on the circuit board were repaired/replaced? I'm just wondering if there were any obvious signs of human repair such as new solder, or flux paste, or different color capacitors, etc... This circuit board is full of smaller PCB "module components" indicated by MCXXX... Were any of these repaired or replaced?
No obvious replacement parts or repair marks, it all looked just like I remembered, same colors of caps etc. as the original. It was advertised as factory refurbished, not sure if I should be relieved or nervous, this is the second time in 2 years I've had to replace the same part.
post #985 of 1979
Quote:
Originally Posted by unspun01 View Post

I have a TH-42PZ85U. 10 Blinks SOS code. I can confirm TP7 on the P-board is missing 15V (from which other 3.3V, 5V, 9V and 30V tuner voltages are derived).

This indicates no voltage at the output of transformer T301, which may also indicate no primary voltage at T301...

Troubleshooting past this gets tricky... I'm not sure where to go next.

It appears you will have to back track from T301, if you think you are not getting any primary voltage. I would check F301.
post #986 of 1979
Quote:
Originally Posted by rick92 View Post

my 50s2 bought last nov. got the 10 blinks, the repair people never even tried to fix it here they said the sc board is bad back ordered 2 to 3 weeks. panasonic denies any kind of common problem or firmware update, typical

update 4 weeks later sc board still on back order, very disgusted with panasonic, sales lady told me when I bought it that the samsung was a better set wished I would have listened!
post #987 of 1979
@ tomwil:

My first check was to test each power supply fuse. They are all good, including F301...

When the TV is plugged in, I measure voltage in excess of 200V for a split second on the F301 supply line that connects to the "drain" of FET transistor Q301...

Also, when the TV is plugged in (and as the relays click), I measure approx 15V on each "gate" for each FET transistor Q301 and Q302. My voltages are referenced from the chassis ground.

This tells me the power control module MC301 must be doing something since these voltages appear briefly and disappear (probably in response to a detected fault)...I do not recall off hand if both gate voltages appear at the same time, or if the voltages appear one after the other.

My problem is understanding the operation of the FET transistors Q301 and Q302...

With reference to the service schematics, Q301 and Q302 are both connected to the primary winding of transformer T301. Since Q301/Q302 are connected in series between a "ground" line and the high voltage "supply" line via fuse F301, I doubt that they can ever be "on" at the same time since this would connect the "high-voltage" directly to the "ground". Therefore, I think they need to be on independently. Correct me if I am mistaken.

Both Q301 and Q302 seem ok since they do not measure a "short" across any combination of the terminals (gate, drain, or source) however I wonder if one or the other may be "conducting", even partially (during power on) when it shouldn't...

Has anyone done more extensive troubleshooting on this power supply (ETX2MM702MF)?

I think solving this problem can be a solution to many people's problems regarding the 2 Blinks code and the 10 blinks code.

Thanks.
post #988 of 1979
Furthermore, I checked the so-called "12V standby" supply located on pins 8 and 10 on connector P12 (and SS12)...Mine measures 5V. There seems to be some discrepancy between the service manual (page 35) and page 43 of this document:

http://www.scribd.com/doc/24963802/1...Plasma-Display

What should this voltage be? 12V or 5V?

Anyone have any ideas?
post #989 of 1979
Ok Refurbished power supply came in today - installed it - turned on TV - and NOTHING!!!!

After a careful review of the board I found small part that was pulled away from the hole where is should be soldered. I pushed the wire into the hole just for another try - still nothing.

After 3 attempts to fix this myself and $200 in parts and lots of aggrevation - it looks like it's time to call a technician.

My advise to anyone buying parts online - make sure the parts are returnable and that the parts are under warranty. Also check the fine print because many of these places charge a 15-25% restocking fee on returned parts.
post #990 of 1979
Quote:
Originally Posted by Panajunk View Post

After a careful review of the board I found small part that was pulled away from the hole where is should be soldered. I pushed the wire into the hole just for another try - still nothing.

Usually that part needs to be soldered to make a complete connection. Just pushing it into the hole will not guarantee a connection.
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