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MSI 7411 Motherboard Sneak Peek (share your thoughts!) - Page 106

post #3151 of 3490
What Windows and BIOS are you using?

In Windows 7 device manager when you right click a device and chose uninstall you should get a window with the appropriate check box.
post #3152 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonTHB View Post

What Windows and BIOS are you using?

In Windows 7 device manager when you right click a device and chose uninstall you should get a window with the appropriate check box.

I am using Vista. The bios version is A7411KMS V1.11 Build Date: 07/14/08
post #3153 of 3490
When I try to update the BIOS through DOS the update just gets stuck. What should I do now?
post #3154 of 3490
Thread Starter 
I fear that the diode near slot 3 may have failed. I believe one of the other forum guys had that happen. He replaced it himself and everything worked fine. However, that is outside most people's area of exerpertise.
post #3155 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by PGPFan View Post

The first ones you linked didn't have a downloadable owners manual so I couldn't comment on them.

The second link (for the NS-P270) does have a manual available and they look like they'd work fine -although a little small for my tastes. How large of a room will they go into?

The third link didn't have a manual either.

-PGPfan

The room isnt all that large, the area subject to speakers is 3.5x3m but the full room is 3.5x7m.
post #3156 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by skoka123 View Post

I am using Vista. The bios version is A7411KMS V1.11 Build Date: 07/14/08

I found these instructions that may help you. The specific instructions for removing software is step 9 at the end of the page.
post #3157 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by skoka123 View Post

I am using Vista. The bios version is A7411KMS V1.11 Build Date: 07/14/08

skoka123, go through the page 92 of this thread and see if you have the diode issue mentioned in the posts there. This is a part that sits just next to the D2 audio chip and the 5.1 amp card rear socket and will have a small bump on it if it has blown (mine is nice and smooth for now, touch wood). I have re-posted the pics here that clearly show the bump:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...2&d=1250809751

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...3&d=1250809795
post #3158 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonTHB View Post

I found these instructions that may help you. The specific instructions for removing software is step 9 at the end of the page.


Gosh, I can't believe I missed it. I am so used to clicking the OK button in Vista (UAC....) that I stopped reading the content.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JavaJack View Post


I fear that the diode near slot 3 may have failed. I believe one of the other forum guys had that happen. He replaced it himself and everything worked fine. However, that is outside most people's area of exerpertise.

I will take the MB out of the HTPC tonight. Is that diode easily available all over the world? I am from India and it has already cost me about USD 300 to get the MB in the first place. I hope I don't have to spend another 50 bucks for it and then wait 2 weeks for the shipment to arrive.

tvarad,

Thanks for pointing out the post on the diode issue and the pics.

If this turns out to be an issue with the MB then I will be really disappointed with MSI. This will be the second MB out of two that would have failed me in about a year usage.
post #3159 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by skoka123 View Post

Gosh, I can't believe I missed it. I am so used to clicking the OK button in Vista (UAC....) that I stopped reading the content.

I will take the MB out of the HTPC tonight.

Uninstalling the drivers did not work?

I had no audio and the D2 device did not appear in Playback Devices. Uninstalling drivers as described in the link caused Windows to reinstall the MS drivers. It was not necessary to install the D2 Audio drivers to get audio, but once I did, the audio was maintained.
post #3160 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by DonTHB View Post

Uninstalling the drivers did not work?

I had no audio and the D2 device did not appear in Playback Devices. Uninstalling drivers as described in the link caused Windows to reinstall the MS drivers. It was not necessary to install the D2 Audio drivers to get audio, but once I did, the audio was maintained.

I have tried updating the BIOS from V1.11 to V1.20 or V.134 from a DOS bootable USB flash card but did not succeed. After that I have updated the realtek driver which changed the device in Device manager to Realtek HD Audio from HD Audio device.

I was able to restart Vista few times after that. Then I shutdown the PC instead of restart and since then it does not boot. Does this mean I have a MB problem?

I have not yet uninstalled the driver files. The system stopped booting before that. I hope it will boot if I reset the CMOS jumpers.
post #3161 of 3490
Ok so I get the board back in and now the video is fine.

However I cant get the audio to work, right now im plan on using the philips amp which has an aux connection for L-R channels, I connected those to the line in R-L of the board and the sound isnt working..

Any recommendations? This thing is really ticking me off.
post #3162 of 3490
Serious Problem Here. The board does not boot. The power and harddisk LED are on but nothing shows on the monitor.

I have cleared the CMOS by changing the jumper settings and also removing the CMOS battery.

Where do I start?
post #3163 of 3490
why doesnt this board just work?
post #3164 of 3490
Skoka,

That is almost the exact sequence of events on my 1st board failure. Audio Quits, No D2 audio device. Cannot get audio back by re-installing drivers. Then system will not post.

After my 3rd board failure I gave up, too bad though because I did like the system when it worked.
post #3165 of 3490
For anyone that cares I got the sound to work by installing the d2 audio driver even though I didnt install it yet....


strange.
post #3166 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by skoka123 View Post

Serious Problem Here. The board does not boot. The power and harddisk LED are on but nothing shows on the monitor.

I have cleared the CMOS by changing the jumper settings and also removing the CMOS battery.

Where do I start?

Trust me, it has died and gone to heaven.
post #3167 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by HenkyDoodle View Post

Trust me, it has died and gone to heaven.



Is there anything I can do to get it working? Does taking it to a repair shop help? How difficult is it for a local technician to figure out what went wrong and replace the parts?

If it can be repaired then the labor should not cost more than $15 here in India.
post #3168 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by skoka123 View Post



Is there anything I can do to get it working? Does taking it to a repair shop help? How difficult is it for a local technician to figure out what went wrong and replace the parts?

If it can be repaired then the labor should not cost more than $15 here in India.

Skoka,
MSI has service centers in India, so you may want to contact them using the info on this list. I would take that route. If they cannot, depending on where you live, you may want to take it to a reputable shop in the computer ghetto of the city (trust me, that's exactly what it looks like) and see if they can fix it for you. If it is the diode problem being talked about on page 92, the fix is simple enough; replace it with a 1A diode. See if that works.
post #3169 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by skoka123 View Post

Serious Problem Here. The board does not boot. The power and harddisk LED are on but nothing shows on the monitor.

I have cleared the CMOS by changing the jumper settings and also removing the CMOS battery.

Where do I start?

Not to raise hopes, but I had the same symptoms as you.

First, the manual clearly WARNS AGAINST clearing the CMOS with the system ON. I can not emphasize enough that my systems were OFF when I did this.

I never touched the battery. I cleared the CMOS with the system OFF, but the LED on the motherboard was lit. In other words the system does NOT need any disassembly, but needs to be CONNECTED to power.

Just relating my own experience with two tall capacitor board systems and a revised board and I am truly curious if anyone else has been able to revive a seemingly dead Diva.
post #3170 of 3490
I have given my Diva to a "reputable shop in the local computer ghetto". I will know on Monday if it can be repaired.
post #3171 of 3490
I'm curious to know if anyone else is having problems with the line out on the Diva board not downmixing 5.1 material to 2 channel stereo.

If the source is 2 channel stereo all is well. If the source is 5.1 then it is only mirroring the left and right speakers from the 7.1 pre amp card.

I'm running Windows 7 premium, haali splitter and AC3 filter.
post #3172 of 3490
I have never upgraded my BIOS and am still running V. 1.10........used to read here about people having problems with their system after going to V. 1.34.........so have waited quite a long time, anticipating that those bug-a-boos would become history. Can you please tell me IF I update now - should I anticipate problems?

TKS michael
post #3173 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbworks View Post

I'm curious to know if anyone else is having problems with the line out on the Diva board not downmixing 5.1 material to 2 channel stereo.

If the source is 2 channel stereo all is well. If the source is 5.1 then it is only mirroring the left and right speakers from the 7.1 pre amp card.

I'm running Windows 7 premium, haali splitter and AC3 filter.

This isn't exactly an "issue". The line out does not downmix and was never intended to do so. It simply mirrors the front L/R outputs of the amp or preamp card. If you want it downmixed, you have to set the Windows Audio device to 2 channel but then the amp/preamp card would be downmixed as well.
post #3174 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by HenkyDoodle View Post

omg.. it just died on me again. this is becoming hysterically I booted up and it went into system restore and kept hanging there. The only thing I could do is push the reset button. And so I did ... Now when I power up the front blue led lights up but further nothing happens. It looks like for a split second the fans get some juice but then they shut down again.

DonTHB: tried clearing the cmos but that did not work. I will return this piece of crap to the retailer tomorow and I will not accept a new sample of MSI. 6 times is just really NOT acceptable.

I'm late to the party on this, I realize, but I wonder if there's some component in your system (maybe in mine also) that just doesn't play nice with this motherboard. Maybe the case and power supply, since that seems to be related to your recurrent problem?

I had the same problem, and I'm running a Corsair CMPSU-400CX in an Antec Fusion.
post #3175 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schismal View Post

I'm late to the party on this, I realize, but I wonder if there's some component in your system (maybe in mine also) that just doesn't play nice with this motherboard. Maybe the case and power supply, since that seems to be related to your recurrent problem?

I had the same problem, and I'm running a Corsair CMPSU-400CX in an Antec Fusion.

I forget what power supply i have but im also using the Antec Fusion and other than the MB being a tight fit i have had no other issues to date.

I was even running the cpu with a passive cooler for several months without any issues but now have a fan running at 50% on the cpu and the case fans set to low within the case controls.
post #3176 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by vladd View Post

This isn't exactly an "issue". The line out does not downmix and was never intended to do so. It simply mirrors the front L/R outputs of the amp or preamp card. If you want it downmixed, you have to set the Windows Audio device to 2 channel but then the amp/preamp card would be downmixed as well.

Thank you for letting me know, I must have been confused because I thought I tested it before with the amp card and it was working.

The idea was to send 5.1 to the reciever and 2 channel to the tv. While not perfect, I used a 5 splitters to combine the center with the right and left outputs on the pre-amp card.
post #3177 of 3490
I think there is a program that will allow you to change the speaker setup fairly easily, ie: switch from two channel to 6 channel. While not ideal, it should be easier than having to open the control panel each time. I can't remember the name of the program but it might have been "Audio Switcher".
post #3178 of 3490
Quote:
Originally Posted by vladd View Post

I think there is a program that will allow you to change the speaker setup fairly easily, ie: switch from two channel to 6 channel. While not ideal, it should be easier than having to open the control panel each time. I can't remember the name of the program but it might have been "Audio Switcher".


I believe you are talking about Vista Audio Changer. I use that for my personal setup however it isnt' reliable enough for a non techie person who just wants things to work. fortuanately I'm using the pre-amp version of this board, allowing me to use splitters to make everything work as expected.

I'm suprised they dont do this with the line outs(I actually thought they did), especially when it comes to multizoning where you want to mirror the audio being played to a secondary device.

The two most common scenareos I run into are:
  1. Wanting the ability to use TV speakers and or Powered speakers
  2. Send tv audio to a multizone audio controller for distribution. Most prime time shows and sports are now being broadcasted in 5.1. making the lineouts useless.
post #3179 of 3490
Java Jack,

Any news on the release of the D2Audio firmware that provides better control of audio?

Thanks
post #3180 of 3490
I've been able to tweak the sound board so that I get good sound for 5.1 movies. However, I use my HTCP for lots of music playing. I only currently get sound via the two R/L front speakers. Is there a way to get audio out of the 5 or 4 speakers using the D2Audio driver or a setting that you are familiar with? Thanks much.
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