Starting Construction Name Suggestions Gladly Accepted - Page 3

RTRose, yes we did textured walls and ceilings.

Orange peel and knock down are both types of texture, and we actually used both in the house. Orange peel is a lightly sprayed texture that gets a very light sanding after it has dried. As Jeff mentioned, you have to have a really good tape job under it because it does not hide imperfections well. We used this type of texture on the walls.

Knock down is applied by using a slightly heavier spray patern, and then the finisher lightly pulls a taping knife across it while it is still wet to create a very varied pattern in the finish. This is a great finish for ceilings because it does an excellent job of masking "flashing" which is a common problem on ceilings. Flashing is caused by the mud & tape of joints absorbing the primer and paint differently than the paper of the drywall does. It happens on walls too, but is most noticeable on ceilings. The texture eliminates that problem.

I will take some close up photos of the two pictures and post them next week.

Jeff, thanks for the compliment on the red. I was a little nervous about using it because Des Moines is pretty conservative when it comes to using color on exteriors of homes, but my wife talked me into it and I am really glad we used it. We have had a couple clients look at the siding on my house, and now they are changing their plans to include some color.

When I lived in Indianapolis in the early 90's, the norm for that area was smooth finished walls. I believe that is what they still do in most homes in the area. Am I right RT?

Jeff,

You are very welcome. I am glad you will be able to use. It was nice meeting you and good luck with drywall hanging.

I took a couple pictures of the textured drywall. The first two pictures are the orange peel finish that is applied to the walls in the house and theater.





The texture is very light and difficult to pick up in the photos, but once the walls are painted their final color, it will add a very nice finishing touch.

This is the knock down texture that is used on the ceilings.





You can see that it is a much heavier application, but the knock down process give the ceiling a lot of character.

Riser construction update to follow.

I got the riser framed, completed some more trim work, and the electrician finished the can lighting and step lighting.

The riser is 12" tall with a 6" step on each end. I decided to frame a "wall" using pressure treated material for the base plate, some scrap 3/4" OSB and 2x4 material to fill out the height, and 2x4 top plate. I set 2x6 joists on top of these "walls", and the 3/4" subfloor brings the final height to 12". I decided to go this method because I will be running the cold air return vent through the riser as well as installing conduit for future cable runs and this was easier than boring through 2x12 material. Once the HVAC duct and conduit are installed, it will be heavily insulated.



Here is the support wall built with pressure treated plate, layer of 3/4" OSB and two 2x4 plates.



The riser carries through to the equipment closet. The rack will sit on top of the riser and conduit will run under it for future expansion.



The step on the right side of the riser. There is a step on the left side as well.



View of the back of the room with bulkhead and riser installed. I have about 7 feet of head room from top of the riser to bottom of the bulkhead, and 8' from riser to finished ceiling.



Juno 4" airtight cans installed.



Finished trimming out the wetbar as well.


HVAC should be in to run the duct work through the bulkheads and return air in the riser today, and I am going to run the rest of the speaker wire in the bulkhead tonight so I can insulate it and get it sealed up.

Mastiff, it has been difficult to slow the process down. Half of my brain keeps wanting to push to get it done and see everything completed and the other half keeps trying to push things off.

RTROSE, thanks for the encouragement. Both of my sisters live in Indy, and they hate their smooth walls. One of them has a Beazer home in Westfield and you can see nearly every single stud when the sun hits the wall in the afternoon. As more people ask for the finish, it gets more economical.

Jeff, I have seen that method here too, and while I understand the theory behind it, the process would not work well when you are trying to sheet rock an entire house. It seems to me, that the opening would have to be cut before you hang the rock because a roto-zip will tear the wood jambs apart if you cut it in place. I saw another builder piece in around the opening, but this is a sure fire way to get drywall cracking at the corners of the doors. For the HT, I plan to seal the void between the jamb and framing/drywall with accoustic caulk before applying the casing.