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Toshiba XF550 series calibration service menu access and usage - Page 9

post #241 of 307
Help! I believe I've read that to update the firmware, you need to use an SD memory card. Problem is, my 52" beauty is wall mounted and a can't get to the SD slot. Is there any other way to update the firmware?
Thanks for any help.
post #242 of 307
Hi-
I tried to update firmware.
I can not get the TV to boot with the SD card in. I belive I have the correct files and have it inserted correctly, there is a single green light on.
post #243 of 307
The TV should be on before you insert the card... yes that does sound weird to me too.

The screen will change to a prompt that asks if you want to upgrade the firmware.
post #244 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey ra View Post

Toshiba Customer Service: 800-631-3811

Thankyou
post #245 of 307
LeRoyK-
Thanks, I got it updated.
I am trying to apply your settings to my 46".
I accidently changed one of the CUT setting, but on the spreadsheet it indicates you keep those at the default.
Does anyone know how I get that back to the default? I think from reaidng the thread there is no default...
post #246 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by crussell1492 View Post

LeRoyK-
Thanks, I got it updated.
I am trying to apply your settings to my 46".
I accidently changed one of the CUT setting, but on the spreadsheet it indicates you keep those at the default.
Does anyone know how I get that back to the default? I think from reaidng the thread there is no default...

You can try Installation/system status/system info .When you get to software version click left/right arrow on your remote-you'll get to factory defaults.

Did anyone have to recalibrate after firmware update?
post #247 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by jenkevin View Post

Help! I believe I've read that to update the firmware, you need to use an SD memory card. Problem is, my 52" beauty is wall mounted and a can't get to the SD slot. Is there any other way to update the firmware?
Thanks for any help.

JK, I had the same issue with my wall mounted 540. Not sure about the 550 but the 540 has a side service update SD card slot. So I updated using that slot rather than the rear mounted one.
I simply unplugged the tv, slid the SD card in (label on the card facing the wall) then plugged in the tv and waited. The front yellow light near bottom of screen blinked a number of times (few mins) then the green power light came on solid and the yellow light turned off. I then unplugged the tv, removed the SD card and plugged the tv back in. That's it! When I check the system info. screen I now get:
XV540U
4.2.46.0
Oct 6 2008 11:45:30
FW: 15
Im thinking it worked, without taking tv off the wall.
post #248 of 307
Resetting the factory defaults did not reset the Service menu changes unfortunately.
I entered Yzfbossmans settings, not I want to try LeRoyK's settings. Since those settings leave the CUT settings at their defaults I am SOL.

Acn anyone who has a 46" model and has not changed any servcie menu settings please go into the Servcie Menu (instructions in threads #1) and tell me what the default values for the 3 CUT settings are?
thanks
post #249 of 307
I found the default setting for the 56" that were posted earlier.
I have tried the settings in the ss for LeRoyK's friend and Yzfbossmans and they look great, except in very bright areas in bright scenes, PQ is very washed out. Not sure what to do about that.

I am mulling over having a pro come in and do a calibration. He did my Sanyo Z2000 PJ and did a killer job so I may go that route. If I do I will post my results here.
post #250 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsalexan View Post

JK, I had the same issue with my wall mounted 540. Not sure about the 550 but the 540 has a side service update SD card slot. So I updated using that slot rather than the rear mounted one.
I simply unplugged the tv, slid the SD card in (label on the card facing the wall) then plugged in the tv and waited. The front yellow light near bottom of screen blinked a number of times (few mins) then the green power light came on solid and the yellow light turned off. I then unplugged the tv, removed the SD card and plugged the tv back in. That's it! When I check the system info. screen I now get:
XV540U
4.2.46.0
Oct 6 2008 11:45:30
FW: 15
Im thinking it worked, without taking tv off the wall.

Rsalexan
Thanks for your post. Unfortunately the 550 doesn't have the side slot your 540 has. Without some other solution, I guess I'll have to pass on the update. It's difficult to understand why Tosh only provides rear panel access for a mjachine designed to be wall mounted.
Oh well. Thanks again.
Jenkevin
post #251 of 307
crussell1492

My CUT values after the update and before I started messing with them were

00 - RCUT
F0 - GCUT
00 - BCUT

My meter told me that the Blue output was much higher than Red and Green for luminances between 5% and 45% at those settings. After a couple of hours of playing, I am still not certain where I want to be with a new calibration. Since I have the ability to raise and lower all three values, I am thinking I may be able to improve the gamma performance to 2.2. But I will need to do much more playing to figure out whether it is possible or practical, or causes other problems. With any changes viewing is recommended.

For the superbowl, my set was set to these values
00 - RCUT
44 - GCUT
C4 - BCUT

By raising GCUT and lowering BCUT, I was able to see them match the Red levels for a good D65 value at lumanences from 5% to 100%, but the gamma was unaffected. These settings also messed with some of my test patterns in a negative way. 0% - 5% Green only looked too prominent and 0% - 5% Blue only was barely visible on one of the AVS 709HD test patterns.

I am not sure where this will all end up right now.
post #252 of 307
Thanks for the work LeroyK. I know I'm looking forward to what you come up with!
post #253 of 307
Here's another XF550 owner that has appreciated what LeroyK has done in the past and is doing now.... Let us know what you can re: new settings...

Thanks ... Dave
post #254 of 307
I have been playing with the new firmware on my 52" Toshiba.

I am not ready to post settings. I am still playing around with them. But I do have some observations.

The Colormaster controls work much better now. If you gave up on those controls in the past because positive brightness values resulted in sparkles, take heart. I have not seen that problem with the new firmware. I still prefer Toshiba's treatment of color to what I have done with the color controls, but I am still experimenting.

When I use the B Drive and G Drive user menu settings on the Color Temperature menu interactively, the setting changes once the TV powers completely off. I have taken to waiting the 20-25 seconds after power off for the relay clicks. After the clicks, I power back up, wait for the TV to settle a bit and then measure gray scale. This makes each tuning session pretty long.

The CUTs work in the service menu. They have the greatest influence on the 10% luminence value. Align the 10% value for 65K, then adjust the B Drive and G Drive for 80 or 90%. The gray scale should be pretty uniform.

On my sample, with this firmware, I notice a very pronounced jump in the Blue brightness centered on the 20% luminance value. White is a bit bluer at that luminance level. I have not been able to find a combination of settings that have flattened it out. This problem could have been there all along, but was disguissed by the way too high blue cut value that I could not change with my old firmware.

For this round of adjustments. I am starting with the service menu settings from my friends May build TV. See my post #185 to get those starting values.

Enjoy the new firmware
post #255 of 307
LeroyK, really look forward to your settings, hopefully this weekend?
thanks
post #256 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeRoyK View Post

When I use the B Drive and G Drive user menu settings on the Color Temperature menu interactively, the setting changes once the TV powers completely off. I have taken to waiting the 20-25 seconds after power off for the relay clicks. After the clicks, I power back up, wait for the TV to settle a bit and then measure gray scale.

LeRoy:

Are you saying that the adjustment on the user controls for the B&G Drive controls don't take effect until after the TV is turned off and then restarted?
post #257 of 307
The light output of the adjusted component moves when you adjust the value up or down, but the value on the meter may not be the same after you turn the TV off completely and then back on. This is condition is worse with the Color Temperature B&G Drive controls.

I am getting closer to posting my values. I need to watch a variety of video material before I get done tweaking. I just changed a value. I need to watch some more.

I am also doing measurements when the set is cold and then again after watching for a couple of hours. Things do move around a bit. I am targeting the warmed up condition.
post #258 of 307
can someone who has the 42" please post the default service menu values?
I have LeRoK's for the 52" version but need the 42"

thanks
post #259 of 307
Without futher ado, here are my settings.

RCUT 00
GCUT 51
BCUT c8
RDRV 77
GDRV 7A
BDRV 7E
BRTC 77
COLC 8B
UVTT 79
CNTX 7F

Contrast 98
Backlight 20
Dynalight ON
Brightness 56
Color 49
Tint +2
Sharp 50

Dynamic Contrast OFF
Static Gamma -4
Color Temperature WARM
B DRIVE -4
G DRIVE -13

Colormaster On

Red
Hue 0
Saturation 0
Brightness 0

Green
Hue 0
Saturation 0
Brightness 0

Blue
Hue 0
Saturation 0
Brightness 0

Yellow
Hue 0
Saturation 0
Brightness 0

Magenta
Hue 0
Saturation +10
Brightness 0

Cyan
Hue 0
Saturation 0
Brightness 0

I first set my service menu settings to match my friends newer TV. If you play with the BRTC, COLC or UVTT register, remember to set the registers for all of the resolutions, inputs and aspects that you will be watching. Those registers seem to be stored individually for many of those variables. Also the COLC register needs to be set one count higher than the desired final setting. Seems like a bug in that register only.

At the 10% luminance level with all of the CUTS set to zero, my TV produced a very high Blue level, a middle Red level and a very low Green level. I kept the Red Cut the same lowered the Blue level and raised the Green level. The result was a near perfect 65K at 10% with a delta e under 2. My 65k jumps higher at 20% luminance becuase of a hump in the Blue output at that level, it then goes back to 65K with delta e's under 2 at 30% to 80%. At 90% and 100% Red drive drops off a bit, so my delta e's approach 4.

Notice that this calibration is for a backlight level of 20. My meter noticed a very small difference between backlight 20 and backlight 0 for a full black screen. For values above 20, the black level rose a bit with each click. I have a light controlled room, so I am trying this backlight setting and enjoying it.

Contrast has been raised to 98 when I have such a low backlight to conserve all of the light available. The meter showed a contrast ratio of over 2000:1 with those settings.

For color, I used the tint control to put the cyan and yellow right at their optimum values. I then turned on Colormaster and raised the Magenta saturation to offset the very high saturation of Green on our machines. The result is that the crossing lines for Blue-Yellow, Cyan-Red and Green-Magenta all cross exactly where they should at the 65K mark.

I have been watching these settings for serveral days now and I like 'em. And the meter is happy too.

Good luck,

LeRoy
post #260 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by crussell1492 View Post

can someone who has the 42" please post the default service menu values?
I have LeRoK's for the 52" version but need the 42"

thanks

You may have to be more specific about your model. As far as I know, Toshiba never shipped a 42 inch model of the XF550. 40, 46 and 52 is the list of sizes.
post #261 of 307
Hi-
I had my XF550 46" professionaly calibrated this evening (not 42" as I typo'd in earlier post)

This is the same guy that calibrated my Home Theater projector (Sanyo LCD - Z2000 ) and did a fabulous job, so I had him in to do the Toshiba and its looks fantastic.

If anyone need a calibration done in the Sacramento area let me PM me.

Anyway, here are the results :

Service Menu Settings
R-CUT 92
G-CUT FE
B-CUT 80
R-DRV A2
G-DRV 77
B-DRV 76
BRTC 7C
COLC 9D
CNTX 70
SHRC 7F

User Settings
Contrast 99
Backlight 50
Dynalight Off
Bright 44
Color 49
Tint +2
Sharpness 16
Dynamic Cont Off
Static Gamma 0
Color Temp Medium
B DRV 0
G DRV 0

Color Pallete - All at default except Blue Hue +6

This was calibrated for HDMI input
post #262 of 307
LeRoYk,

Did you start in Movie mode before changing the settings?
post #263 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by crussell1492 View Post

Hi-
I had my XF550 46" professionaly calibrated this evening (not 42" as I typo'd in earlier post)...This was calibrated for HDMI input

crussell,

Thanks for posting your calibrated settings.

What was the source connected to the HDMI input. i.e., Cable tuner / DVR, Blu-Ray player, DVD player?
Also what make and model, if you don't mind.
post #264 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by tech960 View Post

LeRoYk,

Did you start in Movie mode before changing the settings?

Yes, Movie mode is the starting point
post #265 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeRoyK View Post

Yes, Movie mode is the starting point

Why start in movie mode as apposed to sports or standard?
post #266 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by FRANK43 View Post

Why start in movie mode as apposed to sports or standard?

Per LeroyK Post 94 of this topic:
Quote:
I plan to use Movie mode as a starting point because the colors are closer to target, sharpness is correct at the 50% setting and the Warm temp is the only one that can be pulled all the way to 6500 with a user setting.

Follows earlier posts discussing his findings from metering all modes.
post #267 of 307
LeRoy I don't understand the your service menu settings. I see on my TV 3 characters and you post only 2.
EX. R-CUT 00H and you posted R-CUT 00. Am I missing something. I updated the firmware and it reads Oct. 2008 version.
post #268 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by DwnLow91 View Post

LeRoy I don't understand the your service menu settings. I see on my TV 3 characters and you post only 2.
EX. R-CUT 00H and you posted R-CUT 00. Am I missing something. I updated the firmware and it reads Oct. 2008 version.

The 'H" signifies hexidecimal numbers. The 00 means two 4-bit values each representing a value between 0 and 15 decimal (in this case actually 8 bits of zeros.) Each 4-bit can be: 0000 0001 0010 0011 0100 0101 0110 0111 1000 1001 1010 1011 1100 1101 1110 1111 representing 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 A (=10) B (=11) C (=12) D (=13) E (=14) F (=15). It's just a way of describing an 8-bit pattern of ones and zeros with 2 digits in hexidecimal. (EX: 7E = 01111110 puts that pattern into the parameter's hardware register and could be shown as 7EH).

Showing the H is more precise but it's usually left out when dealing with 8 bit registers which these days are usually represented in Hex. Older computers did use octal numbers to represent 3-bits at a time. It's not usual today.
post #269 of 307
pennhaven-
He used a device that generates test patterns (Sencor I believe) and was connected to my display via HDMI

So these setting are likely not spot on for component but look great for all my HDMI connected devices (PC, DISH DVR, Toshiba HD-DVD)
post #270 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by fdimegli View Post

The 'H" signifies hexidecimal numbers. The 00 means two 4-bit values each representing a value between 0 and 15 decimal (in this case actually 8 bits of zeros.) Each 4-bit can be: 0000 0001 0010 0011 0100 0101 0110 0111 1000 1001 1010 1011 1100 1101 1110 1111 representing 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 A (=10) B (=11) C (=12) D (=13) E (=14) F (=15). It's just a way of describing an 8-bit pattern of ones and zeros with 2 digits in hexidecimal. (EX: 7E = 01111110 puts that pattern into the parameter's hardware register and could be shown as 7EH).

Showing the H is more precise but it's usually left out when dealing with 8 bit registers which these days are usually represented in Hex. Older computers did use octal numbers to represent 3-bits at a time. It's not usual today.

What dimegli said.

I am hoping that at this point most have us have read the entire thread. It is pretty short as threads go and chock full of information.

Enjoy yourself

LeRoy
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