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Toshiba XF550 series calibration service menu access and usage - Page 2

post #31 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by sotti View Post

here is my chc file from my 42rv530 calibration.

Unless I can get some info and tweaking the color decoder or a way to fix the gamma I think I'm going to have to live with it.

All in all I'm pretty happy, it's got dip in the way blue tracks, all though it does catch back up.

Really it's more like blue stays about where it should be and red and green take off at about 60%, then the blue drive corrects it at 90% so I get a nice a better white point.


I found that by turning the drives up and the contrast down I was able to increase the gamma in the upper IRE's but not by much. Unfortunetly I couldn't take this concept to the extreme because as the drives go higher they blow out the menus.

The primaries are about as close to the rec.709 as the set can get them and then I used the accupel calculator to get the correct lumanance and secodaries targets.

I feel like I've taken the hardware to it's limits, I wish I had better controls, because the low gamma on the upper IRE's seems really obvious to me when looking at the picture.

If anybody knows about a super service menu with color decoder and gamma controls let me know.

FWIW -- my user settings are still all at default with the service menu value altered, except for
backlight 47
sharpness 40
dynalight off
dynamic contrast off
static gamma -5 (and this deffinetly is the darkest gamma setting, tested retested)
color temp warm

No offense, but if that's as good as can be done with a CMS I just lost interest in this TV.

Using TomHuffman's guidelines, your 10% gray Y value should be 1.29 and yours is 1.87, thus giving up some contrast. You can lower brightness some.

The dropoff in your gamma curve at high IRE's is further indication that you can increase contrast. That static gamma of -5 is probably not a good idea. Your average gamma is low at 1.99. Your overall contrast ratio is only 716:1, not what I would expect.

I would set your static gamma to 0, then set your contrast on a 100% gray/white window until the temp is 6500. Then adjust brightness on a 10% gray window until the Y value is 0.0063 x 100% white window Y value.

Your grayscale dE's are kind of high. I don't know about that sag you have. Maybe getting contrast and your gamma better will help. It isn't awful, though, but I would want better.

With your current 100% white window Y value of 204.7, your red Y value should be 43.50 and yours is 52.33, this is confirmed by your delta luma for red of +20.2%. If you lower your main Color control until your red Y is .2125 x 100% white Y, your green and blue Y values will be even more off than they already are, since they are already lower than they should be. You will have to increase green and blue luminance to get those two Y values where they are closer to spec (0.7154 and 0.0721 times the 100% white Y value).

If you can't increase green and blue luminance enough (not sure what it's called in your Colormaster ... maybe "brightness"? ... thus confusing what it does in comparison to the Brightness setting, which is used to set your black level and your CR), then lower red luminance by itself. Then readjust your main color setting until you get red Y back to spec. This is one of the advantages of a CMS. Main Color control raises and lowers luminance/brightness of all colors, but if they aren't tracking relative to each other like they should be, you can adjust individual colors luminance (Y value) separately.

Remember that if you change your contrast, brightness, gamma as I suggested your new 100% white window Y value will no longer be 204.7 (which results in 59.749 ftL, a little bright ... you might want to lower your backlight a little).

Also remember that you don't see luminace (Y values) on the CIE chart.

Your green primary is off to the left quite a bit. Are you saying you can't adjust green hue to get it closer to target green?

You didn't run saturation measurements on your colors, so we can't tell if you have that right or not.

Hope this helps.

It is all based on TomHuffman's post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=852536
post #32 of 307
soti

The suggestion is if red is outrunning the other primaries, the cool setting may lower red relative to the others or maybe the middle setting will be 'just right'. kjgarrison has given you some good advice about where to start with HCRF.

Which probe are you using? Spyders don't have a very good rep for being consistant with one another.
post #33 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

No offense, but if that's as good as can be done with a CMS I just lost interest in this TV.

Using TomHuffman's guidelines, your 10% gray Y value should be 1.29 and yours is 1.87, thus giving up some contrast. You can lower brightness some.

Yeah I noticed this, this is one of those spyder2 probe issues, also going back from service menu's to user menus, Your are right that I can drop brightness a little bit for sure and that will effect my lower IRE gamma's a bit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

The dropoff in your gamma curve at high IRE's is further indication that you can increase contrast. That static gamma of -5 is probably not a good idea. Your average gamma is low at 1.99. Your overall contrast ratio is only 716:1, not what I would expect.

I would set your static gamma to 0, then set your contrast on a 100% gray/white window until the temp is 6500. Then adjust brightness on a 10% gray window until the Y value is 0.0063 x 100% white window Y value.

The static gamma is labled backwards for the "normal" user, so -5 is as dark as it gets. making it 0 or +5 makes it signifigantly brighter ie lower actual gamma number.

716:1 is actually a pretty good natural measured contrast ratio from what I've seen.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Your grayscale dE's are kind of high. I don't know about that sag you have. Maybe getting contrast and your gamma better will help. It isn't awful, though, but I would want better.

well look at the RGB tab between 50-80% blue drops a bit, and I don't think there is anything I can do about this. Also visible on the gamma tab if you turn on red, green, blue you'll see the blue track along 2.0 where red and green start dropping to 1.9, 1.8.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

With your current 100% white window Y value of 204.7, your red Y value should be 43.50 and yours is 52.33, this is confirmed by your delta luma for red of +20.2%. If you lower your main Color control until your red Y is .2125 x 100% white Y, your green and blue Y values will be even more off than they already are, since they are already lower than they should be. You will have to increase green and blue luminance to get those two Y values where they are closer to spec (0.7154 and 0.0721 times the 100% white Y value).

If you can't increase green and blue luminance enough (not sure what it's called in your Colormaster ... maybe "brightness"? ... thus confusing what it does in comparison to the Brightness setting, which is used to set your black level and your CR), then lower red luminance by itself. Then readjust your main color setting until you get red Y back to spec. This is one of the advantages of a CMS. Main Color control raises and lowers luminance/brightness of all colors, but if they aren't tracking relative to each other like they should be, you can adjust individual colors luminance (Y value) separately.

Check what I said about how I did my calibration. I got my CIE values about as close the rec.709 values as I could, then I used the accupel color gamut calculator. The green is way out of spec, and I think almost all LCD's have green in that neighborhood. So because of those values, when you plug my color stuff into the accupel calculator I think you'll see that my dE for my color lumance values are actually very very close to spec.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Remember that if you change your contrast, brightness, gamma as I suggested your new 100% white window Y value will no longer be 204.7 (which results in 59.749 ftL, a little bright ... you might want to lower your backlight a little).

Also remember that you don't see luminace (Y values) on the CIE chart.

Your green primary is off to the left quite a bit. Are you saying you can't adjust green hue to get it closer to target green?

You didn't run saturation measurements on your colors, so we can't tell if you have that right or not.

Hope this helps.

It is all based on TomHuffman's post:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=852536


Yup green is as close as I can get it for x,y

I think the ftL looks fine I don't get eye strain from it, my monitor at work is set about the same brightness and I sit infront of it for 9hrs a go.

Yeah I didn't run the saturation levels, although I'm not sure they'd be really pertenient since my color gammut is different than rec.709.

My gamma is jacked up, but I've been trying to figure out how to fix it and have come up blank.

here is what I know the drives and contrast both adjust the maximum drive for the colors, so contrast essentially pushes all drives at the same time v drives pushing them seperatly.

Red clips first. My current setting has red wide open, increasing the red drive increases the red balance below 100% but does not effect 100% grey. So it's safe to say red is wide open.

I've tried setting red wide open at 255 and wide open at 235, niether seems to effect the gamma drive above 50%

Using a lower over contrast setting in the service menu (50 or about 30% of max, 60% of default) and higher drives makes the upper gamma better, but nothing I can really do about it.

I'm pretty sure that I should have my red wide open so I can get max contrast (blue is minimum cut since it's the brightest in the low IRE).

There isn't anything I can think to try to make it better and the variation I get between user menu/service menu/multiple runs.
post #34 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeRoyK View Post

soti

The suggestion is if red is outrunning the other primaries, the cool setting may lower red relative to the others or maybe the middle setting will be 'just right'. kjgarrison has given you some good advice about where to start with HCRF.

Which probe are you using? Spyders don't have a very good rep for being consistant with one another.

I am using the spyder2.

I tried doing it on normal vs warm and didn't see a big change and calibrated it to D65 and didn't see any difference in the gamma/rgb tracking.

I could try doing it on cool.
post #35 of 307
BTW since I finished my calibration late monday night I didn't really have a chance to do a sanity check on the calibration.

It looked bad with alot of highend blow out, lowering the contrast helped fix it a bit.

Maybe there is a different interaction between user contrast and service menu contrast max than I previously believed, I'll have to explore this when I get back to it tonight.
post #36 of 307
Thread Starter 
As of 3/28/08 these User Menu settings are what I like for my "Preference" mode. The signal source is via the antenna. (Note that the settings for each signal input can be different.)

These are updated settings that differ from my earlier post of 3/22/08.

Contrast 75
Backlight 85
Dynalight ON
Brightness 55
Color 55
Tint 0
Sharpness 10
Dynamic Contrast Middle
Gamma +2
Color Temp Medium
Bdrv -2
Gdrv -3

ColorMaster ON

The six ColorMaster colors are all at 0 for Hue, Saturation, and Brightness, except for the following:

Red Saturation +2
Green Saturation -3
Green Brightness -7
Yellow Saturation -6
Yellow Brightness +2
Magenta Saturation -2
Cyan Brightness -2


All Service Menu settings are at their factory defaults except the G-DRV which had a factory default of 77H...I've moved it to 70H. I strongly believe that by changing the green drive setting in the service menu I have eliminated all of the green push that MIGHT have been present in the set.

My settings are selected simply by eyeballing everything. I do not have a calibration system. And, yes, I know that, "You have to have a calibrator to do a calibration properly...yadda, yadda, yadda." Well...

EDITED 3/31/08. I've bumped the Service Menu G-DRV setting down a couple more steps to 6EH.
post #37 of 307
Isn't all that is really important is what looks good to you. Your setting are a good starting point and give us courage to try settings other than factory settings which are after all some other persons idea of what looks good. Keep up the good work by taking your precious time for us.
post #38 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

Where did you get that info from? I must have missed it.

sotti also mentioned it in post #18
post #39 of 307
I will be posting a few times about my calibration story. So here is the information about what I used to test with.

Toshiba 52XF550U March 2008 build, Feb 4 2008 FW

AVS-HD Blu-ray 1080i test disk - free from this site

Panasonic BD30 Blu-ray disc player - set to NORMAL playback - 1080i for AVS-HD

GretagMacbeth Eye-one Display Lt - came with Pantone Eye-One Display LT kit (looks like a name change from Pantone to X-Rite since I bought it) can be bought online for less than $150

HCFR Colormeter v2.0.1 http://www.homecinema-fr.com/colorimetre/index_en.php Free color measuring software for Windows from France. You may use HCFR to view the .chc files posted to this forum.
post #40 of 307
The first question I wanted to answer with my meter was if the backlight setting would change the temp of 100% white.

I put the Toshiba in Sport mode and varied the backlight from 0 to 100 in the preferences panel. All other parameters remained the same.



The color temp was not 6500 at any time, but the color temp went down as the backlight setting was increased.



And you can see that the individual colors had different trends. Red and Blue rose while Green fell as the backlight setting increased.

The moral of the story is pick your backlight setting early. You may have a perfect 6500 color temp for 100% white at a 90 backlight that will rise above 6500 with a 30 backlight.
post #41 of 307
contrast
backlight
brightness
backlight
drives
contrast
cuts
drives
contrast
brightness

so many things effect so many other things you basically do the next step then go back over all the previous steps.
post #42 of 307
Adjusting for gray is possible with this set for higher luminance values. The lack of operational cuts in the service menu inhibits modifying the lower luminance values.

To adjust for gray I first put up a 100% White test pattern and went into the service menu and set the Red drive to 60H. In prior experiments I saw that Red was the drive that 'topped out' the quickest at about 86H any setting above 86H did not increase the Red seen by my meter. I wanted lots of head room for my drives so that whatever Toshiba did under the covers did not top any one of them out and spoil my white temp.

I have a controlled lighting environment, so I decided to go for the middle of Tom Huffman's 50-60 ftL recommendation for LCD panels. The Toshiba can go much brighter, but it creates a bit of an eyestrain in a darkened room.

Using my probe I adjusted the backlight until I measured 55ftL coming from the 100% white pattern. I then went into service mode an adjusted the Green and Blue cuts for a 6500 color temp. This changed my ftL so I went back to the backlight and then back to the drives. You get the picture, after some iterations, 100% White was 6500 on the nose and 55 odd ftL bright as well.

I then used HCFR to record all of my luminace settings from 0 - 100% white in 10% increments. The results showed that while 100% White was 6500 all of the lower values had a temp higher than 6500. One rarely sees images with 100% white, so I decided to put up 50% white and see if I could tune that to 6500. Here is the result of that tuning of the Red Green and Blue drives in the service menu. I only had to move Green and Blue a couple of clicks.



Not great, but 40% to 100% are in the ballpark. I need those cuts!

My set has no 'Green push'; here is what the meter is seeing.



Looks like 'Blue push' to the meter, I have been looking for it and I frankly can't see it in the dark areas.

My settings for grayscale are as follows:

R-Drv 60H
G-Drv 60H
B-Drv 62H
BRTC 75H

Contrast 93
Backlight 60
Dynalight Off
Brightness 53
Dynamic Contrast Off
Gamma -4
Color Temp Warm Blue 0 Green 0

The gamma setting of -4 was needed to get closest to the 2.2 gamma curve.

These settings are constant for all of the following posts dealing with color.
It appears that the service menu drive settings remain constant, Cool Medium and Warm settings just add offsets to the drive settings internally to arrive at the final (unknown) drive settings for Red, Green and Blue.
post #43 of 307
Here is what my meter sees with Color Master Off.



As you can see the XF550 has a color range (white triangle) quite a bit larger than the REC 709 standard (darker triangle). The Red and Blue points line up fairly well, but pure Green is quite a bit away from the Green reference on the color map.

This extra Green is not 'Green push' but an effort to show us more of the Green color that lies outside of the REC 709 standard.

The net effect of having more green available to work with can be dramatic in the showroom. Put baseball, golf or football on the screen and the grass will look 'greener' than other sets around it. A natural selling point. Because the engineers have expanded the range of Green and not messed with white, all of the other colors on the screen will be right, but the Green will be more dramatic on the show floor.

But having more colors available than the production facility also means that the green you see is not the same as the green the engineer at CBS is seeing during the Masters. This could be looked at two ways. One might really like the expanded range and never want to go back to standard. They can be smug about seeing more green than even the people creating the signal. Or one can lament the lack of enthusiasm for standards and try do something about it.

A few words about calibration of the color and tint controls. I adjusted the Color control using Red per Tom Huffman's suggestion of 21% of the luminance of white.

For the Tint, I used the Magenta target on the only side of the triangle that aligns with the standard. I left the Tint control at zero and adjusted using the service menu UVTT control to tweek the magenta dot in interactive mode.

The color settings I wound up with are:

COLC 63H
UVTT 77H

COLOR 37
TINT 0

For those of you with a copy of HCFR, here is a link to the .chc file captured with Color Master Off and the white point set as described in a previous post.

http://www.mediafire.com/?yrg4cec0qls

I will keep these settings constant as I try to get Green and Cyan closer to the reference triangle with Color Master On.
post #44 of 307
checkout my work up of my 42rv530
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1012562

both the rv530 and the xf550 use the 4G pixel engine.

I'd be very suprised that the cuts don't work at all, but they are very slow to respond (needing 16+ differences to register 2% changes) also they are zero'd at 80h instead of 00h so 79h is max and 80h is minimum.

Then again the xf550 is a different panel with 120hz, xvYCC color, and >100% NTSC color.

Using color master you should have no problem putting green right on the spot.
post #45 of 307
Here is as close as I could get my triangle to align with REC 709 using Color Master without causing extra noise in the picture.



As you can see the white triangle is now only slightly larger than the standard. I accomplished this shrinking to standard by turning Color Master On and only working with the Green and Cyan settings, the other four are at their defaults.

The Green settings are:
Hue -17
Saturation -12
Luminance +3

The Cyan settings are:
Hue -8
Saturation -14
Luminance 0

If you are trying this yourself be aware that the luminance control can introduce noise into the picture. Driving it too high probably causes some number internal to the process to clip creating noise that you can see. My settings do not produce noise, but I am not too happy with the big swings I needed to make in hue to get to the reference color points, 100% Cyan looks ok, but 100% Green looks a bit sick.

Here is a link to that .chc file.

http://www.mediafire.com/?db1i9embexn

In the next post I will show you the compromise I am testing out right now.
post #46 of 307
I was unhappy with shifting the Hue of Green and Cyan with Color Master, but I noticed that when I used HCFR to measure Saturation levels 0 - 100% of each of the colors that Cyan and Green tracked very close to the right points as the saturation increased.

So here is the compromise I am watching now.



On this one I only used the saturation control to move the Green dot. The final position is a compromise between going higher and going further left. I used saturation for Cyan to put that dot on the Triangle.

Green Color Master
Hue 0
Saturation -13
Luminance 0

Cyan Color Master
Hue 0
Saturation -8
Luminance 0

Here is a link to that .chc file

http://www.mediafire.com/?dnx2dzmzyhg

I think I like these colors better than the ones in the REC 709 post, but I will need to put a few more hours in to tell for sure.
post #47 of 307
If you have a 52 inch model, and a light controlled room, you might want to see if these settings please you.

Service Menu

R-Drv 60H
G-Drv 60H
B-Drv 63H
BRTC 75H
COLC B3H
UVTT 77H
CNTX 7Fh
SHRC 15H
VBIS 01H
CC 01H
ID1 01H
GG 01H
OPT1 00
OPT2 00
OPT3 E0H
OPT4 6BH
OPT5 03H
SETID D2H
VOLX 64H

Regular settings
Contrast 93
Backlight 60
DynaLight Off
Brightness 56
Color 37
Tint 0
Sharp 0
Dynamic Contrast Off
Gamma -4
Color Warm Blue 0 Green 0

I am open to trying some experiments with my meter, if we come up with a good question.
post #48 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by sotti View Post

checkout my work up of my 42rv530
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1012562

both the rv530 and the xf550 use the 4G pixel engine.

I'd be very suprised that the cuts don't work at all, but they are very slow to respond (needing 16+ differences to register 2% changes) also they are zero'd at 80h instead of 00h so 79h is max and 80h is minimum.

Then again the xf550 is a different panel with 120hz, xvYCC color, and >100% NTSC color.

Using color master you should have no problem putting green right on the spot.

Thanks Sotti, the post you reference is a great summary for this set as well. With the exception of the cuts doing nothing at all on the xf550. They always reset and my color meter shows no effect as they travel through their range.

I am curious about all of the values in your service menu, there may be a bit in one of the registers that locks the cuts. The theory says leave the bit on and the cuts are locked, turn the bit off and the cuts function normally. By comparing each register, I might be able to find the lock bit.
post #49 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by OreoJoe View Post

Impressive work.

I am curious if SMPTE color bars with a blue filter look correct with your compromise settings. Could you compare color bars with ColorMaster Full and ColorMasterOnSatOnly?

I am considering purchasing this TV in the next few months. Is variation of color balance with backlight setting common or limited to this particular TV?

I have DVE Basic for Blu-ray as well and the Blue filter adjustment told me my Color level should be between 35 and 40. I have a tough time using the color filters provided. Maybe my eyes are too far apart? Also note that the filters provided in the old DVE DVD and new Blu-ray disk are the older REC 601 standard colors.

Blue and Red are consistant between all three of my color setups. Green and Cyan are the ones that move around.

I don't know the technology that panel makers use to lower the backlight settings. They could use a constant light, and just lower the amount of light in each color that passes through the panel. Or the could actually dim the backlight. If they dim the light, it makes sense to me that the spectrum of light put out would not remain constant. Or they may be using a combination of the two techniques diming the light and changing the amount of light in each color that comes through the panel.

My meter says that this set does a good job of keeping the luminance output of the panel linear as the backlight setting is moved.

Do other panels show color change as the backlight level moves? I can't be certain, but I would expect other panels to act much like this one. The factory presets move the backlight level around, but once you calibrate, your backlight setting should be constant.
post #50 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeRoyK View Post

Thanks Sotti, the post you reference is a great summary for this set as well. With the exception of the cuts doing nothing at all on the xf550. They always reset and my color meter shows no effect as they travel through their range.

I am curious about all of the values in your service menu, there may be a bit in one of the registers that locks the cuts. The theory says leave the bit on and the cuts are locked, turn the bit off and the cuts function normally. By comparing each register, I might be able to find the lock bit.

What do you want to know precisely?
Just a full service mode dump?
post #51 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by OreoJoe View Post

Impressive work.

I am curious if SMPTE color bars with a blue filter look correct with your compromise settings. Could you compare color bars with ColorMaster Full and ColorMasterOnSatOnly?

I am considering purchasing this TV in the next few months. Is variation of color balance with backlight setting common or limited to this particular TV?

Backlight is literally a dimmer switch for the backlight of the panel. The change in light output effects the color balance because the light itself is of a certain color, so when you remove or add more light it causes those spectrums of light to added or removed greater than the brightness/dimming of the panel.

All LCDs do this.
post #52 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by sotti View Post

What do you want to know precisely?
Just a full service mode dump?

All of the register values may allow us to find a bit that is different in your setup.
post #53 of 307
Dear LeRoyK:
It has been wonderful to read your calibration observations--even though much of it is over my head as I have yet to buy a meter and software (I've watched and talked to ISF techs and lurk on this Displ. Calib. forum a bit, so I understand concepts but not the math).

I have a 40" XF550 which I love in all respects except that the gray scale has a distinct green push, especially on certain mid-band gray bars. I adjusted down the green drive in the SM, but that has not helped enough (I hesitate to take it down too far).
Have really been hoping that someone can discover the "secret codes" to enable the cuts. Then I would think it worth it to buy a meter and give it a go (I live 250 miles from the nearest ISF tech, so that's not an option--and I'm a DIY guy anyway). Mr. Timewise even got set up as a dealer and then got a letter from Toshiba saying that the Service Manuals for the XF550 series are not yet published. Was wondering if someone with an LX177 Service Manual might find a special code that would enable other calibration handles.

Based on my observation of the completely global nature of the SM RGB drives (see my longish post http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=2154), I am convinced that Toshiba MUST have a way to program/activate other calibration settings (if only so that they can store the stupid Sports, Movie, Std. presets).

One of your posts observed that while the XF550 RGB Drives can set the gray balance (in a one-armed way), the overall color temp is fixed by the TV's presets. With my old Princeton HD CRT, the RGB CUTs, BIAS, GAINs ranged wide enough to control the tracking AND the overall temp. Please explain more about what you think Toshiba is doing. And is this standard practice these days for flat panel displays?

Frankly I really miss being able to have several calibrated memories--and to be able to make minor tweaks to each for comparison. I have zero need for "cool" temps and would be happy if all preset temps could be adjusted to D6500. And I'd love to store other settings in the Sports, etc. modes (like a daytime viewing setting for the kids) without having to accept Toshiba's torch settings.

Lastly, I am really hoping someone with a 40" XF550 will do a calibration like you did with your 52" so I could crib their settings (yes, I know each set sample is different, but I might get closer). As it is, I don't think your SM settings will be useful to me at all.

I don't think it is definitively known whose panel is used in either the 46" or 52", but I am becoming convinced that the 52" model is not a Samsung (S-LCD Co.) panel as we know for certain that the 40" is. You did not observe green push when calibrating for gray scale, whereas some 40" users have.

I look forward to all your (and others') comments.
THANKS!
post #54 of 307
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeRoyK View Post

If you have a 52 inch model, and a light controlled room, you might want to see if these settings please you.

Service Menu

R-Drv 60H
G-Drv 60H
B-Drv 63H
BRTC 75H
COLC B3H
UVTT 77H
CNTX 7Fh
SHRC 15H
VBIS 01H
CC 01H
ID1 01H
GG 01H
OPT1 00
OPT2 00
OPT3 E0H
OPT4 6BH
OPT5 03H
SETID D2H
VOLX 64H

Regular settings
Contrast 93
Backlight 60
DynaLight Off
Brightness 56
Color 37
Tint 0
Sharp 0
Dynamic Contrast Off
Gamma -4
Color Warm Blue 0 Green 0

I am open to trying some experiments with my meter, if we come up with a good question.

Great job, LeRoyK.
I will try your settings soon on my 52". I presume you still also have Green and Cyan Color Master saturation set at -13 and -8 respectively?
post #55 of 307
Thanks a million LeRoyK!!!! I've adjusted my 52 to your settings, made a couple of my own tweaks, (moved sharpness back up to 50 and turned Dynamic Contrast to low) and to my eye it looks GREAT!!!

Where do you set your Noise Settings, (DNR and MPEG Noise Reduction)?
post #56 of 307
LeRoyK,

I've been maintaining a calibration spreadsheet and I've added your settings to it. (See my signature for link to spreadsheet)

One question I have though is, are you using the same settings for cable as you are for Blu-ray?
post #57 of 307
opps
post #58 of 307
Superdad

A color temp of 6500 for white is achived when the luminance of the Red, Green and Blue channel is properly balanced. That same temp will be seen for all shades of gray from black to white as long as the channels have the same balance of luminances.

In your case, it will be pretty difficult to hit the exact balance without a meter. With the lack of cuts on our sets, I would hazard to say that on your set the Green drive is too low right now. I would raise the green drive until the brighter grays on the gray scale all have the same green cast as the middle grays, then raise the Blue and Red cuts to get the proper balance on the high end. It should be possible to see the same temp from 35-40 up all the way to 100 on your set. Hitting 6500 without a meter will be just luck. But getting a good picture will be possible with work.

To change the color temps between Cool (highest temps) Medium and Warm (lowest temps) Toshiba changes the balance of colors in white. I will try to give you some insight as to how they do it in a later post. I need to take some measurements first.
post #59 of 307
Italiano

Yes I am using the Saturation cuts only settings with Color Master on right now. I have seen no reason to change right now. Ultimately we will settle on the picture that we like best.
post #60 of 307
Finnpond

All of my sources are pretty good, so I turn all noise reduction off, I hate what it does to a good signal.

For calibration, turn dynamic backlight and contrast off. For viewing, some sources may benifit from dynamic contrast. This afternoon I was checking my grayscale by watching The Thin Man. Good movie, but the contrast on the DVD print is pretty variable. Dynamic Constrast cleaned up the reel to reel differences nicely.

I am also not a fan of adding sharpness at the display, my test patterns show picture differences at any setting over 30 for sharpness, so I just leave it at zero and view the sharpness in the source.
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