Official Denon AVP-A1HD/AVP-A1HDCI and POA-A1HD/POA-A1HDCI owners thread. - Page 580

Could someone PM me please if they can direct where I can buy an audyssey standalone unit. I'm over the fact where not going to get any audyssey upgrades and I heard today that the x32 can be upgraded in these standalone units. You just have to buy the package. Wether that's true or not I just have to wait and see.

Welcome, AcuDefTechGuy! You're goning to have fun with your new(est) toy!

Its only 51 more days, would it not be smarter to wait and see what denon has in store ? Like audyssey states expect products in the fall. Changes are not small that denon is involved since they seem to be a starting partner of audyssey most of the time.

Welcome : AcuDefTechGuy we are always happy to have new people join our little (or not so little) club of owners.

Daniel.

I hope somebody can help me with this:

If I set the speaker size to "small" in



and afterwards want to check the new setting in



it still says that they are "large" (as told by Audyssey)
Is this right? Shouldn't it say "small" no matter what?
I tried a full processor reset, which didn't change anything.

No, auto set up keeps in memory what it redorded last time audyssey ran , so it can have store in memory what the last resaults where..Hence , the last auto sat up is displayed , regardless of what you commanded it to do.
In other words there are two worlds , inside avp , the manual way and the auto way.
What you choose is a irrelevant case.

Thanks, guys.

Yes, I will have lots of fun with my newest toy.

Still happy to wait but I also would like to know where I be able to get one just in case...

Just to be clear (i am sure thats what you mean jomark), if you change the speaker settings after running audyssey it does follow these commands. Audyssey will adapt to these new settings on the fly it just doesn't show you in the recorded memory which is more a 'report card'.

Also its not audyssey who sets the small/large setting its denon who decides after the autorun what todo based on what that 'report' told them. This is why we see many differences between brands on how they set the crossovers for example. There is nothing wrong with changing these crosssettings if you are sure the change you are making makes sense. A good example is setting your mains and center to small even if the autosetup feels your mains are upto the job to be set to large.

hope this helps,

Daniel

correct daniel.

Everything Daniel and other have said is spot on. One last thing. You shouldnt lower your crossovers. Example if Audyssey finds a speaker at 80hz you shouldnt lower the crossover to 60hz etc. Audyssey will only eq done to the crossover that is found for that speaker. Only raise them as Daniel said.

Brad

Waiting patiently to see what upgrade we will be receiving soon.

I've been busy getting my shiny new Ceton CableCard tuner configured.

Well i can only say what i have been doing the last few days . Since i had a ipad and i am a AppleTV user i was/am a little upset that Apple didn't release a working/updated version of the remoteApp. Well a few days ago i found a replacement made by someone outside apple. Its called 'ytrack' and its only 1.59euro so if you are a ipad owner and use itunes/appletv get it now and support this developer !. Its on the apple store, no hacking, breaking or anything its using the correct dacp protocols apple designs compleet with multidevice and multiroom/speaker support !

Now for the bad news, it crashed in several places when you use it on a AppleTV so i have been debugging with him and have currently a working beta version on my ipad. It already works great and is better than the remoteApp (for one its very fast) but there are more features to come in the next release.

So thats what i have been doing .

Daniel.

Okay, I relented and got an iPad a couple weeks ago.....great toy! I don't use an Apple TV, so what functionality would this app offer someone like me? I don't mind buying it, if it's something I could/would actually use.

What's that?

Well do you use itunes on your mac or pc or htpc ? In that case it also works. It basicly provided you with a 2way interface to your itunes/jukebox.

ytrack looks like this : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5U8TQ9tYnc thats the normal ipod music app on the ipad BUT it won't play the music on your ipad but it controls a remote itunes or appletv.

Since you have a ipad i am sure you also have itunes installed somewhere and its good to try out if you never used a 2 way remote application like this.

For many people this is the missing app.

Daniel.

As for what's been keeping me busy? I've been obsessed for the past two weeks with trying to find a way to get power state feedback from my Kuro TVs so that I can better customize my remote macros and avoid the long delay when the panels are already on. Sounds simple, I know. Not so much with those TVs, because they have no trigger, no video out, no serial communication when they're off, and I can't seem to make my remote use "no response" as a response.....

It's not even a big deal, but now that I'm really trying to do it and can't, it just bugs me to no end!

Yeah, I do, and I keep most of my library of lossless music on my NAS. One thing I haven't been able to do with the iPad is access that library.....no "iTunes Server" is shown. iTunes doesn't seem to work that way on the iPad, like it's a pared down version. I just looked at the ytrack app description, but I couldn't tell whether it would allow me to do that. Any insight?

I can bring up my Kuro 141 IP GUI even when it is in standby mode

Ah yes....I'm envious. But the TVs (151FD and 111FD) aren't IP addressable. Makes me wish I'd gotten the monitors just for this reason alone!

It's a PCIe card for a PC running Windows 7 Media Center that uses a Cable Card to give you 4 Cable Card tuners in your PC. It's the best thing since sliced bread because you can replace a Tivo or crappy DVR from your cable company with a 4 tuner solution:

http://www.cetoncorp.com/

A hack called Tuner Salad has also been found for Windows 7 Media Center that raises the 4 tuner of each type limit to 8. This would allow 2 of the Ceton cards to be used so you now have a DVR with 8 tuners for those nights when there are a bunch of shows on all at the same time that you want to record or have people using Media Center Extenders throughout the house all watching different programs while you still record a few shows on the Media Center PC.


Hmm. Is there a power indicator light somewhere on the TV that's only illuminated when the TV is on? Does your remote control system have some sort of contact closure input? If so, you could get a Niles LS-1 light sensor (or some equivalent) to detect when the light is on and use that. I believe the LS-1 has been discontinued, but you should still be able to find them. Not exactly a cheap option, but at least it's an option.

Another option would be to use a power sensor with a closure output - something like a Crestron CNCS would work. The TV plugs into the power sensor which then plugs into the wall outlet for power. The sensor can be adjusted to detect when the TV is on or off based on how much current it's drawing. You can usually pick a CNCS up on ebay dirt cheap, and the can be used outside of a Crestron system - in fact there's an auction listed right now for a brand new one with a buy it now of $19.99 plus shipping. Just make sure the wattage rating on the sensor is high enough to support the amount of power your Kuro draws.

Hopefully this helps.

Now back to following the DVD looks just as good as Bluray debate in the Oppo thread .

Not sure what you mean with 'itunes server' but if you can play it inside any itunes (so for example on your mac or pc that loads it from the nas) you can use a application like ytrack. It basicly acts like a 'remote control' but just try it for 1.59euro what do you have to loose .

So again this is a 2 way control for any itunes on your network either on mac, pc or appletv. Uses the normale 'pairing' method apple uses.

The developer is aiming for a new release in 2 weeks that has the appletv bugfixes and many new features that make it almost feature compatible with the old (iphone only) remote app and looks like the new ipad music app.

Daniel.

It just might.....I'll look into it! I tried thinking of ways to use voltage or video sensors, but there's just nothing to trigger them. I guess I'd rather not put anything on the front frame of the panel (where the indicator lights are), just for aesthetic reasons. So this CNCS thing might be an answer...thanks for the link.


Should we get them going on mp3 versus lossless?

Maybe I'll go ahead and buy it, just to check it out. (It's only $1.99 here, so no big deal even if I don't really use it.) What I meant, BTW, was that in iTunes on my PCs, the left column has sections- LIBRARY, STORE, SHARED, GENIUS, and PLAYLISTS. The music on my NAS isn't up in the LIBRARY section, which has local music, movies, TV Shows, etc., but it's listed down in the SHARED section under "iTunes Server." iTunes on my iPad, however, just doesn't even have the SHARED section.

I'm pretty sure other companies make products that are equivalent to the CNCS with higher wattage ratings if that turns out to be a problem. But as long as your remote control box (you're using RTI, right?) has contact closure inputs, a current sensor should work well for a Kuro since there's a big difference in power consumption between on and off modes.


MP3 sounds just as good and saves disk space. What's there to debate?

Ahh yeah thats because your ipad has a copy of your music files its not really 'connected'. The remote app and/ytracks will indeed act as a remote and in the future (not sure it will now) show all the different sections. Ill run a test and it works already. If not i am sure it will be on his todo list.

Daniel.

I use Nevo, but yeah, I can use voltage sensors that way. Thanks again.

AMX also makes the Power Current Sensor (PCS), in one or two plug versions. It senses when a plugged in device is drawing power, and sends out out a signal. They come up on Ebay from time to time for typically $10-$20.

Thanks for that. I looked around yesterday at some of these current sensor options. I'm kind of surprised how "complex" they tend to be. Most require a separate power supply...and many seem to use a proprietary connecting block for the system they're designed for. (I suspect that can usually be worked around.) A commonly-used "universal" solution by Xantech requires three separately-purchased components (sensor block, connector block, power supply)!

Cheap and simple is what I'm hoping to find, if the programming approach I've been trying just doesn't pan out. I'll be sure to check out the AMX sensor. Thanks again.