Official Denon AVP-A1HD/AVP-A1HDCI and POA-A1HD/POA-A1HDCI owners thread. - Page 588

You can have 7 speakers, except the 3 fronts, sourounds and souround backs, by utilizing the button standard, in the closed lid of avp.Pressing it several times and you 'll fiind it. Is this what you mean by saying 7 channels with no thx?

+12 and i have it set at "0". and on the AVP the max is 4.5.

I'm in the process of saving for the poa, and the pio can go in the lounge room.

As a poa owner myself I can only say. Yeaaaaahhh that's a nice amp to combine with the avp

Daniel

YEAH i agreee , a GREAT wway to go , along with avp .

Speaking of amps, anyone using Parasound amps?

I am using 4 Parasound amps (2 for the fronts, 1 for center, 1 for surrounds - HCA1500A, HCA1000A, 2125 and 275). All are high current. They run very cool and are trouble free after 5 years of almost daily use (for the HCA's). Might consider something really nice for the front speakers for my next investment. Not upgrading now but would appreciate any suggestions or opinions for future. My fronts are Infinity Preludes which are fairly power hungry but my room is only 12x15.

Ruled out the POA as too big for my needs and space (and back!). I looked at the Marantz but my fronts and center are 4 ohm and Marantz doesn't recommend anything less than 8 ohm. Would spend up to $3000 for a 2 channel for fronts only. Also looked at the Parasound Halo series but don't know if it would be a big enough upgrade over the HCA series I have. Anyword on the newer hybrids like the Vincent?

Thanks.

Willy, what about the SP-331MK at "Vincent audio" for $2199.95. First time i have heard of these amps and i was quite surprised that they are a german company.Go here for a fantastic review. http://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/vincent_sp331_e.html

Yeah bui with the POA you get these 3 vu-meters , thats why we like them (and mcintosh).

But really the poa is not a value amp what makes it nice is its 10 amps and flexible use.

The parasound amps are solid imho, the vincent i don't know ive heard good things about them and the models i checked at show and shops where in 2 channel setups and sounded nice but not neutral to me (probably not the amps).

Daniel.

The POA is obviously a great amp, and lots of owners here pair it with their AVPs. But it's by no means the only great option, and plenty of owners have paired their AVPs with other quality amps, with similarly happy results. For some, the POA may be too big, too expensive, or just more amp channels than needed. You can get a great amp (and retire that Pioneer to the lounge room where it belongs ) for much less time and money than it might take to save up for a POA.

Oh for sure, i totally agree and have even thought about it.I just thought it would be justifiable due to the fact that the room i have is 8.5m x 5.5m wide and has all the sound proofing i could ever wish for. Plus i recon i can get a really good deal at the same place that i bought the "PRE" from.And there is also a hope that the retail price might drop a little more.Fact is that i am excited, but at the same time not in a hurry.I know that if i do buy the "POA", i will be looked after by these guys in melbourne.It only takes 1 or 2 good jobs for me and i will have it, so its just a matter of time. At the moment i am still finding out a lot about this great PRE amp. After being put on the correct path by you guys, i havn't stopped watching movies.(EVEN THE REPEATS SOUND BETTER).The vocal from the centre channel is really up there now and the sound is that real crisp sound that i like.The Avp does a really great job. But i am just as impressed with the video upscalling, its really made my 1080i into a masterpiece and thats with the playstation 3. Just imagine if i had the a1ud, plus a 1080p projector and anamorphic.

At $3k I wouldn't hesitate to get a D-Sonic 2500-7.

In short, it's three Bel Canto Ref1000's and four Ref500's in one chassis. About as good a sound as you're ever going to get for any price. The guts are Bang & Olufsen ICEpower modules, which are self contained mono amps that many high end companies are placing in their chassis. (Jeff Rowland's Model 501 & 201, PS Audio GCAs etc...)
Pro reviewers tend to describe the sound as a perfect blend between solid state and tube despite being a class D design.
At 4ohms the 2500-7 will put out 1000w/ch X 3 and 500w/ch X 4 without batting an eyelash. I'm using all ICEpower modules in my system in PS Audio chassis and been doing so for quite a while now, they are my last amps for sure.

I have 7 of the Bel Canto Ref 1,000 MkII. I like the way they sound and have them concealed in a bulkhead in the ceiling, no overheating issues etc. Just want to point out that you have to be cautious about claimed power outputs, herewith is a commentary from Audioholics website about this issue:
http://www.audioholics.com/education...one-amplifiers

I have the D-Sonic and love it! I haven't noticed any missing watts lately....

I do recommend the link PLA posted though. It provides a lot of interesting insights into manufacturing amps. Read the posts after it too.

I've always wanted to assemble some Hypex amps and try them (http://www.hypex.nl/) but I have never gotten over the needed activation energy barrier.

Well, you can get as technical as you want about the power ratings, but I quote them to make a point about value. The truth is that you don't need a whole lot of power for most applications.

IMO, the key statement in that article is;

"In most cases this doesn’t pose a practical problem since we don’t listen to continuous test tones. For all practical purposes, these amplifiers can deliver gobs of power at low frequencies where it’s needed most."

And the key thing for WillyJ's application is that these amps are stable down to 2ohms.

Its not always a case of needing but of wanting, Once you accept that fact and admit it to the people around you you will be ready for the next step** .

Daniel.

** its part of the 12step program how to become of gadget nerd and being ok with it.

"Hi, my name is Waboman, and I'm a gadget nerd." The whole group says together, "hello, Waboman."

Yeah, no matter how you slice it it's still a ton of power. And it does meet the 1000w spec, albeit not in the way Audioholics would want it to - i.e. across the board with continuous tones/load.

I don't think any amp with a Switch Mode Power Supply like ICE amps can do that. They're simply not designed for it, and it's one of the reasons they're so compact and efficient. A traditional amp has to be built like an arc-welder with massive caps and transformer to have the power reserves to meet those specs.

The SWMP has small reserves, and basically is full-on / full-off depending on the material (switching at over 500,000 times per second), it will run out of reserves with a "manufactured" constant load. The thing is that doesn't exist in the real world, if it did you'd likely fry your speakers' voice coils before you'd notice the power dropping. (That's a guess on my part but I know woofers don't like constant tones for too long.)

You're supposed to also say; "Welcome to the meeting, it's been sixty-two days since I bought my last gadget."

Waboman,

I think you are still in denial. The POA is not a gadget and you are not a gadget nerd. A gadget is a "small mechanical device or tool." The POA, whatever else it may be, is a not a gadget. You need to come face to face with your disorder and accept who you are. That''s the first step in getting well. But who wants to be cured?

I really can't tell the difference between the D-Sonic and other good amps I have heard although I have never heard it side by side with the POA in double blinded A-B testing. Any other comparison is lame.

Does the power available make a difference? I run at and 1-3 watts/channel max with movie and music peaks having plenty of headroom. I have tinnitus and the AVP-D-Sonic combination makes me forget it, but I would be the first to say that my recommendation is also lame at best at this point.

My real reason for not buying the POA, besides cost, was weight and heat. Class D is cool and light and green. The POA on the other hand is a beautiful piece of kit with great meters, matches the AVP and sounds great. It will not be setting any energy saving records.

Does anyone know if there is a single remote control code available to power cycle the AVP on/off? Instead of 2 discrete codes, one for on and one for off, one code to do both?

I see there are some for older AVR's but haven't tried them.......

Thanks.

There's an IR power toggle command, but as you'd expect, there's no such command in the serial protocol.

Spot on Daniel

Excuse my ignorance but what do you mean? If there is a IR power toggle, how do I "get it"? I need to program my Harmony One with the button push power toggle? Without a code or remote I am not sure how to do this.

Hello Waboman!!

You need to download the IR codes from the Denon website.
http://www.audioproducts.com.au/down...R_CODE_V01.pdf

Update: Jeff Talmadge still hasn't responded as of yet.

Thanks - Downloaded the file.

Would the code be #1 - 100000 ? Would this code programmed to one button turn it off and on depending on the status?

Then, how do I program my remote with this code? I am a newbie at this as I'm sure you have already surmised

Yeah, it looks like you want code #1 which should be a power toggle command. You (or someone else) will need to convert this into a standard Philips Pronto format code and then send it to Logitech to add to your configuration so you can use it. If I get some time free, I'll look into converting the code for you - I know how to do it and just need to find the time to do so.

That said, I'm wondering why you want to use the toggle code with your Logitech Harmony remote. The Harmony software supports the use of separate on and off commands for each device which will leave the AVP in a known state making it easier for the Harmony to automate the various activities. When available, discrete power on and off commands are almost always preferable to a single power toggle command.

Thanks - I may look into doing this now that I know what is involved.

Actually, I would be programming the Harmony so I can then "learn" my TIVO remote from the Harmony. I only have the one PWR button on my TIVO remote thus the need for one code.

I was going to send you a link to a generic tool (MakeHex) that might make this easier for you and stumbled across a Denon specific tool that I hadn't been aware of. I haven't tried it, but take a look at Denon Pronto Hex Generator - it may be exactly what you need. The other tools that are needed to use with the program can be found here.