Official Denon AVP-A1HD/AVP-A1HDCI and POA-A1HD/POA-A1HDCI owners thread. - Page 152

Can this mean that we may finally see region free Blu-ray or was he merely referring to the DVD playback?

As a matter of interest to our North American friends, region coding is seen by the regulators here to be anti-competitive behavior but they have struggled with the legality of it all, including for the computer drive restrictions.

Australia's national consumer watchdog, the ACCC, funded the legal expenses for a company in a case brought against them by Sony for modifying PS2 machines to play games from other regions. Sony claimed it would allow piracy to proliferate but the High Court of Australia ( the ultimate federal court in Aus.) was not impressed and upheld the rights of those involved to make the modifications contrary to the region coding rules.

It was therefore no surprise to us here that the PS3 is region free for games anyway, because it would have been highly irresponsible for Sony to continue to restrict gameplay through regions in the face of the definitive High Court judgement. It certainly wouldn't hurt the sales either.

Over here as in many other parts, DVD players have been region free for years and Pioneer for example, has only ever sold multi-region players. If any restricted ones slipped through, they were easily changed through the back door left open by the manufacturers. (I did this with the 5910ci I imported from the USA). All TVs and other displays have been multi-system for years, which is why Blu-ray coding is potentially a huge issue. And I would suggest one that could seriously slow its world wide acceptance.

If you are likely to get the new "killer" Denon player coming out next year I would suggest wait for that. The 5910ci/A1XVA still have the very best DVD output IMO - I tried 480i from other players upscaled by the AVP and it wasn't quite as good. Mind you the DVD performance of the XE1 is excellent and I would not change it for the sake of the DVD image alone.

It is Denon Link that brings extra clarity and definition into DD and DTS soundtracks as well as CD and SACD that keeps me interested. However, the new Denon will have Denon Link that will also handle HD audio codecs and the 5910ci may finally become redundant.

tassop, thanks but I am still a little unclear as to your suggestions re setup. I understand there appears to be a conflict with simultaneous DL-III and HDMI but you would think that DL-III being the better sounding alternative it would be dominant if activated for sound and utilize HDMI for video. What am I missing? When using DL-III I have to turn off HDMI on the 5910 to get the sound but lose picture. Sound is amazing. Maybe I could use component cables as a means to get both video and audio while using DL-III.

To get back to your suggestion, I have checked setup and I can't seem to get anything but PLII unless I turn off the DL-III on the 5910 and only utilize HDMI but it appears to be only PCM which is not close in my opinion to DL-III for sound. That is a work around but not a good one. Also win DL-III is set on the 5910 the HDMI defaults to 2 channel. I have not used the LPCM function as I really want to utilize the DACs in the AVP..........

SACD is excellent with DL-III (multi or 2ch).

KrellAV

Hi Denonav AKA Krellav ,

I "think" I know what the problem is regarding you HDMI/DL-III audio issue. Go to AVP menu, Source Select then go into Assign then go into Digital and make sure DENON LINK is selected then (And I think here is where your problem lies) Go into Input mode and select "digital" as the audio source, the default is auto and you are picking up the HDMI audio and not the DL-III audio . This should solve your and anyone elses problem with this issue.

Best Regards, Joe.

Joe Thanks! I will give that try.

I have the Avp & 3800BDCI connected via HDMI I can not get HD sound from AVP if DVD is set BD HD audio sound is only played prior to movie entering HD mode. If is set HD audio to mix I get sound but not HD sound. The AVP does not show any speakers on the left side of display when it is set to HD audio. Almost like AVP does not know how to decode True HD. Please advise thanks

virtualbeta

Thanks for the advice tassop. I think i will keep using the XE1 then for DVD's and use either the 2500 or PS3 for CD's and the PS3 for SACD/DVD-A if and when i get some. One thing about the DVD's is i didn't wont to WEAR out the XE1 as they don't make them anymore. If the AVP is at least pretty close in ability to upscale i will be happy, as i can then use other players to even the load so to speak (or try and pick up another XE1 or equivalent).

Also waiting till Jan/Feb/Mar next year for the all in one player won't so bad if we Aussies can pick it up for about $3500USD from overseas somewhere. If this is the case i will certainly get one.

Thanks.

There have been a couple of good suggestions made - just make sure you select 2 channel output only for HDMI in the setup menu. You need to select 2 channel HDMI to enable multichannel DL3 for DVDs.

DL3 runs rings around HDMI for movies and cd's and I only use HDMI for video from the 5910ci.

For my situation i used banana Plugs. I have 2 x 8 (8 gauge for pos and 8 gauge for negative)Gauge speaker wire for the fronts and centre and found it a pain to try to put in the back of the POA so I had to get Banana Plugs.Mind you even those I had to get Large Kordz one as the standard type did not fit my wire.

If im correct Scott the XE-1 has a laser for BD and another for SD so you won't have to worry about wearing anything out on the SD disc side.

DL3 wasn't released at the same time as the 5910, it was a little later due to licencing issues. That is probably the reason it hasn't been homologated seamlessly into the 5910.

With the AVP, I assume you have selected Denon Link as the preferred source for the input, and once the 5910 setup is sorted out, the playback should automatically default to Denon Link every time.

Damn 8 Gauge must be real thick. I though the 12 gauge i saw was rather thick. I might go Banana Plugs then for the front stage. What cable/guage are you and others using for the rears and surrounds. Using 8guge for teh reas would be nuts, thats 4*Positive/Negative to run and that would be a huge bundle to hide.


Thanks also for this Franin, it does put my mind at ease a little. Although investing in another one cant hurt, if i could find one that someone dosnt wont sell along with their HD-DVD collection as i would already have the discs LOL.

Cheers

Scott

Scott mine could be 12 for the rears but they have been installed awhile back.Might be upgrading my surrounds know to the Sonance Virtuoso V834DR. You can actually turn the whole baffle towards you.I will sell my Aarons HSS 600 Bipoles.

Thank you for that Frank. I might just get some rolls of 12 guage for the rears and 8 gauge for the fronts along with Banana Plugs for the fronts and Spades for the rears (incase there isnt room for Banana's).

Might have to keep me in mind about those Aarons.

Cheers,

Scott

Cables are one of those things where everybody has their preferences, and I'm not about to say anyone's choice is wrong. FWIW, I use 11AWG star-quad speaker wire. Unless you have very long runs, a 12AWG wire is virtually always more than sufficient, and 10AWG provides that extra measure of safety we addicts obsess over. When I terminate speaker wire, I only do it to make connecting easier in the given situation. (Ex: My surrounds are kind of heavy so it's a pain to hold them and connect cables at the same time. In that case, I use spades just to make it easier.) As long as the connections are solid, I don't happen to think it matters sonically whether you use terminators or not.

You mentioned in your original post that you'd heard keeping the lengths the same is preferable. With all due respect to any who take this approach, I believe that's a myth with no technical basis. With the speeds at which signals travel along copper wire, and the short distances we're talking about in a home theater, it's a non-issue. Audioholics has a section on their site (www.audioholics.com) where they deal with a lot of these types of question, and this one is addressed directly:
http://www.audioholics.com/education...do-they-matter The upshot is that it's best to keep all lengths to their practical minimums.

The solid vs. stranded discussion is another one that's gotten lots of verbiage. In practice, your speaker wire will be stranded, as any solid cable larger than about 14AWG is inflexible enough that it's awkward to use. (Sonically, they actually work pretty well. I have used 12AWG Romex in a pinch and it sounded just fine! )

So there's my two cents' worth. Bottom line? Don't get too worried about this part of your set-up. Whatever you want to use between 10 and 14 gauge, and however you decide to terminate, or not, will work just fine.

That is exactly what i wanted to hear (see). The links will come in handy as Audioholics has some great information. I also agree that everyone has their own preference and i appreciate you just giving an idea to what to look out for.

Thanks

Scott

hi scott for my rears i use tycabb linear crystal abput $2.0 a meter a really well made stuff, doubble sheathed over the individual colour coded wire insulation. good affordable stuff and particualrly good if want to run in walls or in ceilings, unde the house etc

ps good to hear franin about the denons, can understand now why they scrapped the idea of bringing the 2500 and 3800 to oz especially since 1st gen products and the newer models suggested likely coming soon anyways.

scott congrats on the pana blu-ray player/burner twin tuner HDPVR combo machine. the main benfit of considering something else apart from the pana for DVD is the pana cant do 576i/480i out to use the scaler on the AVP. another player like the pios or the oppo 983 might be a better option for that though with the xe1s you got that should keep you pretty happy for dvd anyways I reckon ps I've been playing with the new tivo HD for HDPVR of late. a great bit of fun that one

Yes its good to hear Al but still preferred the transport.

I second progprog's prognosis....

As for connectors you can go overboard like I did for a while - I tried bare wire , Eichmann bayonets (ouch$) and finally ended up with good quality banana plugs just for for the convenience. For cables I settled on Kordz master series ( 4 X 12 AWG) because it actually sounded good and was affordable (at the time). With the setup you have you need cables that can pass relatively high electrical loads over fair distances and and you should stay away from the thinner cables.

If you buy your chosen cable on a roll it would save $$$ - and allow you to explore all the on-line options as well.

If your speakers have separate inputs for high and low range, definitely bi-amp if you can - at least for the fronts and the difference is noticeable. I would steer away from using different cables for high and low frequencies, I have tried this with dreadful results and it isn't necessary in a HT setup.

Also I used to ensure all cables were the same length some years ago until I did some direct comparisons. Well,to my ears it made no difference ( nor should it given the parameters that you will be dealing with).

Mark thanks for that.

BTW- the link to the article could not be reached with your link, I've included the correct one here



Here's the meat of the suggestion:


I'd agree that multiple heights would be a good thing for line arrays, as they definetly have varying room interactions along their height. I would suggest that no more than 2' delta between highest and lowest position be used. Just like the delta between main measuring points in the horizontal plane should be kept to no more than 2'.

I'll draw a 3D diagram of position for my next measurement session, and to post to the Wiki.


One interesting tidbit in the conversation was:

This means that Dipoles (with their strong rear wave reflections in most rooms) have their rear wave impacts integrated' into the EQ. This might be leading to the over-correction of highs.

Their psychoacoustic models' are probably not optimized for large dipoles, as that's not a common configuration. So not surprising it doesn't quite get it right. But I'm sure there are ways of encouraging' it to do the right thing. We'll just have to experiment a bit.

I find this hard to believe, but since no one seems to have brought it up, I guess I am the only one who has this issue with the AVP.

The circuit boards on the rear panel are loaded with LED's that light up bright green when the processor is on. This may not be a problem under normal daylight or nighttime living room conditions, but in my light-controlled home theater (darkroom curtains on walls and ceilling, blackout foil on windows) they cast a distracting row of bars across the ceiling.

The AVP is parked on top of a custom-built bench that is two shelves high and four sections wide midway between the theater seats and the screen. The AVP is too tall for the bottom shelf and even it could fit, there would be heat dissipation concerns.

Placing the unit out of sight is not an option, as my set-up is optimized for short cable runs and easy access to rear panels to change cables, components, etc.

So now I have to figure out a way to block the light without blocking the ventilation. Any ideas?

Al Jones

KrellAV

KrellAV

because mine is inside the cabinet I did not realise the lights were that strong.

That's Great!!! I know this because I tried out a 3910 and had the same problem... I played around all night and gave up. When I came back with a clear head I finally found the problem. Yes, One would think that the AVP would default to DL-III even in the "AUTO" mode however it does not (at least in your and my unit). That being said I just ordered a 3930ci for CD, SACD, DVD-Audio and standard DVD playback (3930ci will output 480i via HDMI). I have been using a Pioneer Elite DV-79avi with a Audioquest Eagle Eye with very good results, However the Denon Link was more Transparent, More Coherent And I believe had better harmonics... I can't wait to get the 3930ci as I know it has a much better power supply and clock than the 3910. I pulled the trigger on the 3930ci because I am an Audiophile and not really a Vidiophile, so like most of you I will be buying the new Denon flagship player in 1st. or 2nd. quater of 09. Until then I'm sure the 3930ci is going to be is Fantastic!!!

Best Regards, Joe.

I guess I need to get on the Wiki site!

I have Mirage "Omnipolar" speakers, and was wondering how that was going to effect Audyssey, if at all.

Mark

proprog,

I don't know if this is of any help, but I have room layout challenges for my surrounds. On one side, there is no wall, it's open to an adjoining room, so I could not use a wall mount or stand mount for that side surround speaker.

I ended up using Omnimounts to suspend all my surround speakers from the ceiling, aimed downward and toward the prime listening area. The attached photo shows the result, and the side surround on the open wall side of the room. In my case, I have 9.5' ceilings, so this speaker mounting does not interfere with people walking underneath.

Thanks
Bruce

This may be OBE, but for rear surround placement, I was going to suggest looking at the recommended speaker positioning for a 7.1 system on the Dolby web site, and / or asking about this in the Speakers forum.

The Dolby recommendation is not in the corners, and not together in the center rear, but spaced apart on the rear wall.

Thanks
Bruce

Glad to see its sorted!

The AVP knows how to decode the soundtracks but it does not seem that you are transmitting HD audio through to the AVP.

I don't have the 3800, but it would seem to me that you will need to ensure that HDMI audio output on the player is set to "Auto" or "Bitstream" or whatever the 3800 equivalent is. You should disable any audio conversion on the player.

Then when you play a Blu-ray disc you would select the audio track from the disc menu as per normal. Assuming that you have selected HDMI audio on the AVP as the audio input, the player should transmit the selected soundtrack in its entirety.