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Official Denon AVP-A1HD/AVP-A1HDCI and POA-A1HD/POA-A1HDCI owners thread. - Page 179

post #5341 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by danielo View Post

You have so many questions, ill try to bring some order in them.

About the meters. There are 3 buttons on the panel
that you can press to select what power amp the meter displays. If you are not bridging or bi-amping that means you can switch to all of them. If you do bridge/biamp you will see multiple light show up. For example the center channels will then only have 1 option and both lights will go on.

Daniel.

PS: ill try to make a quick how to setup a poa with a avp next.

Thanks again Daniel fro the help.

From what i raed in the manual, once teh AVP has control so to speak, the buttons are not used anymore. Once again though it is most likely that i skipped over a step (like i did this morning).
post #5342 of 25955
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSTI View Post

Thanks Seth.

Even the wife is feeling comfortable about the $$$ we spent on it and it's not even set up right yet. That is the speakers are about 2.8mtrs apart and we were only 1.5mtrs in front of them (far from ideal), it was still great to listen to.

It's only going to get better.

Also will get onto that other project on Monday ok Seth

Well that's great to hear how good the sound is even though it's not all set up optimally. Yes it's only going to get better!

Re "the other project", whenever you can, no pressure, no worries. Just have fun with it.

Seth
post #5343 of 25955
Man this great. I'm sitting in the lounge room (other end of the house) with my laptop, using the WEB GUI and changing the songs and volume. This really is like a PC.

I am loving this thing literally more and more by the second.
post #5344 of 25955
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by danielo View Post

You have so many questions, ill try to bring some order in them.

About the meters. There are 3 buttons on the panel
that you can press to select what power amp the meter displays. If you are not bridging or bi-amping that means you can switch to all of them. If you do bridge/biamp you will see multiple light show up. For example the center channels will then only have 1 option and both lights will go on.

Daniel.

PS: ill try to make a quick how to setup a poa with a avp next.

Daniel,

If you can, could you add this info on the Wiki? It will be very beneficial for new AVP/POA owners.

Thanks,

Seth
post #5345 of 25955
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSTI View Post

Man this great. I'm sitting in the lounge room (other end of the house) with my laptop, using the WEB GUI and changing the songs and volume. This really is like a PC.

I am loving this thing literally more and more by the second.

Too cool!
post #5346 of 25955
Very quick How to setup a avp and poa.

The poa amp has more connections than any amp ive seen. The result might confuse you since there are not only many speaker and input connections but also alot of switches. DON'T PANIC. The good news if you got both the avp and the poa you don't have to set all of these and setup is easy.

1) connect the avp and poa to power

2) connect the communication cable that was in the poa box (looks like a svideo cable) between the poa and avp (will add photo)

3) there is a 3 option dip-switch (will add photo) that out of the box is set to 'option'. Set this to '1' if you connected 1 poa and '2' if you are lucky enough to own 2 of them.

Result is that now the AVP has full control of the poa, all the switches on the back are bipassed, this includes turning the poa on and off, amp settings, feedback.

4) a quick test to see if the units and link works is to now turn both units on by using the on/off next to the big on/stand-by

5) when they are booted (both have the a stable greenlight, they blink when they are booting). Put the avp in standby (using the big now green light button).

6) 2 things should the avp should go off and the green goes to red. But also the poa should now go off and its green indicator to red. If this happens you know you have the communication link working fine and you can continue to try and get sound out of your system.

Gettting basic sound out of your system means attaching 2 speakers (left and right) and 1 source you trust say for example a dvd player with hdmi an a display. The goal is to get you to a level that you can hear sound and enter the osd gui on your tv/display.

**** turn both units OFF using the on/off not just standby if you are working on the back ****

7) remove the protected plugs (if you are using banana plugs) (link to the wiki page).

8) attach right speaker to R1 on terminals with (A) in the middle (the top 2).

9) attach left speaker to L1 on terminals with (A) in the middle (the top 2).

10) we asume you are using XLR cables, since well why else own both of these fine units and not use them in balance moded. So connect the XLR PRE-OUT on the avp with label FR to the XLR-IN on poa channel R1

11) Same with Left channel. So connect XLR PRE-OUT on the avp with label FL to yhe XLR-IN on poa channel L1.

12) connect hdmi source to HDMI1 input on the avp (called dvd)

13) connect display to hdmi output 1 has a different color on the avp

14) turn the avp and poa on again using the on/off

15) use the knob 'source select' to find the DVD input. You should now see a image pop up on your display.

16) turn the volume down since well you don't want to jump 3 feet once sound comes out. Put it on say -50dB or -60dB using the big master volume knob

17) use the main remote control, hit menu and goto 'MANUAL SETUP'. Enter the menu (arrow right)n and goto 'option' menu. Enter that you will now see a option called 'POA Settings' enter than one.

18) You are now in the menu inside your AVP that controls the POA(s) you have attached. It does this using the communication cable we added and tested before. It should give you 3 options 'POA LINK', 'POA 1' and 'LINK Check'. If you have 2 poa's ofcource it will show you 'POA 2' also as a option.

19) leave link test since its working we know this since we tested the auto off feature in step 6. So directly enter the menu 'POA 1'.

20) you now have 2 options. 'Input selector' and 'Power Amp'. You don't need to enter the 'Power Amp' for now until we (optional) bridge or bi-amp. So enter the 'Input selector' menu.

21) You will now see that all the channels (10 of them) are set to RCA. turn them all to XLR. When you flip you will hear a click everytime this is the poa reconfiguring. When you do R1 or L1 you might already start hearing sound. Leave the menu when all are on XLR

22) put the avp in stereo mode 'D/ST' button on the remote (display area not button!).

23) Make sure the dvd is playing something so we have sound. and slowly turn the master volume up (say to -30dB max) you should now hear sound and see 2 meters on the POA move.

You are not done now but you atleast have sound, know that your avp/poa like eachother and tested 2 amp channels, 1 input and your display. You can now start using the menu's and manuals to bring online more input sources and output (speaker) channels.

Guys does this help ? If so tell me ill be back in a few hours and could work on it some more. Did this from memory so please POA owners tell me if i missed something.

Daniel.
post #5347 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSTI View Post

Thanks again Daniel fro the help.

From what i raed in the manual, once teh AVP has control so to speak, the buttons are not used anymore. Once again though it is most likely that i skipped over a step (like i did this morning).

No these buttons on the POA will keep working, they just change what the vu-meters show you. There is one exception. If you turn the AVP in PURE-DIRECT mode it will not only shutdown unused parts in the AVP but also in the POA. Result is the vu-meters, lights will go dark. You can override this using the 'meter on/off' button on the poa. If you like to see the vu-meters bounce even if you are in pure-direct mode.

Daniel.

PS: people should not forget that the POA is probably the first multichannel amp with a 'brain' meaning it will/can react to incoming signals like the avp we will probably see more use of this on next firmware updates.
post #5348 of 25955
Hi Daniel. That was perfect mate. I eventually got through those steps in all i can is a VERY roundabout way. I did forget to mention (not sure if it matters though) that i have my Mains connected via Bi-Wire connection. So i'm using all 4 terminals under L1 and R1.

The ony thing i can think of that i have done different is in your Step #21 all the other channels i had turned them off instead of turning them to XLR. The reason being is that i havnt got the surrounds or centre speaker connected at this stage.

Now i must say that is the perfect example of what should be in the manual, say under a Quick Set Up Guide. Adding some shots to that explanation, would be great Daniel.

Well done mate.

Definaely add this to the Wiki.

Edit - People coming from plain old Recievers like my self are the ones that really find this beneficial. There is just so much more that you need to do and know just to connect the speakers. The you add your components after that. Receivers on the other hand in comparison are Plug & Play devices. I'm sure i will get there soon and hopefully i dont bug you guys to much. In the long run though other Newbies to these devices will have much better (read easier) instructions to follow.
post #5349 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSTI View Post

Hi Daniel. That was perfect mate. I eventually got through those steps in all i can is a VERY roundabout way. I did forget to mention (not sure if it matters though) that i have my Mains connected via Bi-Wire connection. So i'm using all 4 terminals under L1 and R1.

The ony thing i can think of that i have done different is in your Step #21 all the other channels i had turned them off instead of turning them to XLR. The reason being is that i havnt got the surrounds or centre speaker connected at this stage.

Now i must say that is the perfect example of what should be in the manual, say under a Quick Set Up Guide. Adding some shots to that explanation, would be great Daniel.

Well done mate.

Definaely add this to the Wiki.

Edit - People coming from plain old Recievers like my self are the ones that really find this beneficial. There is just so much more that you need to do and know just to connect the speakers. The you add your components after that. Receivers on the other hand in comparison are Plug & Play devices. I'm sure i will get there soon and hopefully i dont bug you guys to much. In the long run though other Newbies to these devices will have much better (read easier) instructions to follow.

Could you imagine how we would all be if we did not have these forums? Relying on shop assistants, well done guys
post #5350 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSTI View Post

Hi all. Below is the picture i promised of my room. Now the floors are all tiled throughout the the whole room. We have been thinking about putting 2 big rugs, with first one starting at the front speakers and finishing near the first lounge. Then 2nd rug behind/underneath first lounge, going through and hopefully under 2nd lounge.
.

Thanks for taking the time to read and to help me out guys.

Cheers

Scott

Hi Scott,

First, congrats on getting it up and running. Sounds like you're loving it even before it's completely dialed in.

My comments on your room are as follows:

Since you have plenty of open area on the left side of the room, you should ensure that you put some absorption on the right hand walls. Carpet will only handle highs and do nothing for the mids and lows, which are the real challenges.

I would recommend going to the HT construction section of AVS and looking up how to do DIY wall treatments that will give you that kind of absorption.

Secondly, do put down some rugs (with some thick underlayment) on the floors between the listeners and the speakers.

I also second the recommendation of putting the sub between your mains, under the center speaker.

Cheers,
post #5351 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonFo View Post

Hi Scott,

First, congrats on getting it up and running. Sounds like you’re loving it even before it’s completely dialed in.

My comments on your room are as follows:

Since you have plenty of open area on the left side of the room, you should ensure that you put some absorption on the right hand walls. Carpet will only handle highs and do nothing for the mids and lows, which are the real challenges.

I would recommend going to the HT construction section of AVS and looking up how to do DIY wall treatments that will give you that kind of absorption.

Secondly, do put down some rugs (with some thick underlayment) on the floors between the listeners and the speakers.

I also second the recommendation of putting the sub between your mains, under the center speaker.

Cheers,

Thanks for those tips JonFo. Will definitely have to check out the HT Construction section (didn't even know there was one).

The next step is to buy the Rugs, then the carpet on the walls. The carpet was more for aesthetics, with benefit of help the sound the reproduction also. Then after say going the HT Const' section get some treatments setup.

Also hopefully where the yellow lines particularly on the right (laundry and cupboards, stairs) we can get that wall built sooner rather than later. I do believe that will help the sound field out tremendously also. It will also make the room look more like a "HOME THEATER".

Thanks Again.

Edit - JonFo, could you recommend any specific threads or topics regarding the DIY treaments.
post #5352 of 25955
Apart from the Audyssey Mic provided by Denon, there is not any other Mic that will work just or more efficiently?

Denon Mic cable is absolutely horrendous gets tangled, knotty and is very fragile.They need to make the cable much sturdier and at least thicker.Just another con in Denon department along with there remote.
post #5353 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by Franin View Post

Could you imagine how we would all be if we did not have these forums? Relying on shop assistants, well done guys

There is a reason why the A1 in europe can only be sold by shops that have had a 2 days training in setting up all the devices in the A1 lineup.

Things like that you have to set the poa to xlr in a menu on the avp will confuse more than a few highend shops that want todo a quick a-b. Like many have noted before the avp/poa combo is first in a line where there are so many options it can confuse and you need some time to figure it all out.

Just compare the back of say a krell multichannel with
a poa :

5 channels, 25 connections/switches so 5 per channel

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...rear-panel.jpg

10 channels, 88 connectors/switches 8.8 per channel

http://www.listenup.com/lu/graphics/...1HDCI.Back.jpg

The fact that you have 88 on the poa is near silly

Daniel.
post #5354 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by Franin View Post

Apart from the Audyssey Mic provided by Denon, there is not any other Mic that will work just or more efficiently?

Denon Mic cable is absolutely horrendous gets tangled, knotty and is very fragile.They need to make the cable much sturdier and at least thicker.Just another con in Denon department along with there remote.

No only the one that comes with it or the mics from the pro kit. They are calibrated/linked if you put a different mic on things go wrong.

Daniel.
post #5355 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSTI View Post

Hi Daniel. That was perfect mate. I eventually got through those steps in all i can is a VERY roundabout way. I did forget to mention (not sure if it matters though) that i have my Mains connected via Bi-Wire connection. So i'm using all 4 terminals under L1 and R1.

The ony thing i can think of that i have done different is in your Step #21 all the other channels i had turned them off instead of turning them to XLR. The reason being is that i havnt got the surrounds or centre speaker connected at this stage.

Now i must say that is the perfect example of what should be in the manual, say under a Quick Set Up Guide. Adding some shots to that explanation, would be great Daniel.

Well done mate.

Definaely add this to the Wiki.

Edit - People coming from plain old Recievers like my self are the ones that really find this beneficial. There is just so much more that you need to do and know just to connect the speakers. The you add your components after that. Receivers on the other hand in comparison are Plug & Play devices. I'm sure i will get there soon and hopefully i dont bug you guys to much. In the long run though other Newbies to these devices will have much better (read easier) instructions to follow.

Congrats- on getting it up and running !
post #5356 of 25955
Hai,

i am more then willing to add it to the wiki, i just joined under 'danielo2' (danielo was blocked?). But this wiki doesn't work like a normal wiki does. To me it makes sense to add a 'quick avp+poa setup' link in the setup section but i have no clue how todo it. The wiki looks more like a forum to me what do i do?

Daniel.
post #5357 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by danielo View Post

No only the one that comes with it or the mics from the pro kit. They are calibrated/linked if you put a different mic on things go wrong.

Daniel.

I thought I just ask just in case there was something else, oh well.
post #5358 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by danielo View Post

There is a reason why the A1 in europe can only be sold by shops that have had a 2 days training in setting up all the devices in the A1 lineup.

Things like that you have to set the poa to xlr in a menu on the avp will confuse more than a few high end shops that want todo a quick a-b. Like many have noted before the avp/poa combo is first in a line where there are so many options it can confuse and you need some time to figure it all out.

Just compare the back of say a krell multichannel with
a poa :

5 channels, 25 connections/switches so 5 per channel

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volum...rear-panel.jpg

10 channels, 88 connectors/switches 8.8 per channel

http://www.listenup.com/lu/graphics/...1HDCI.Back.jpg

The fact that you have 88 on the poa is near silly

Daniel.

The AVP/POA wont be stocked by many here in Perth.luckily the guys get training over there I don't think that gets offered here from Denon.
post #5359 of 25955
Is there a way to wipe all settings you have setup so far on the AVP/POA. I only ask, that now knowing what i know i would like to start from the begging thats all.

Not sure if anyone so this in my above posts but i am Bi-Wiring my Front stage. So from the manual i am using all the L1 posts and same for the R1 posts (only 2ch ATM). Then from what the manual says and similar to what Daniel wrote above (thanks again mate) you set it to normal, which i think is in step #20 of Daniels write up,

[quote"Danielo"]20) you now have 2 options. 'Input selector' and 'Power Amp'. You don't need to enter the 'Power Amp' for now until we (optional) bridge or bi-amp. So enter the 'Input selector' menu.[/quote]

This is where the Normal option is and by the look of things is "Normal" be default. In the morning i will recheck all my speaker connections etc. but would be nice to start from a clean Slate.

Cheers
post #5360 of 25955
HI Guys, i think (i'm sure) i have worked out my problem (nothing like some Fight Night RND 3 on PS3 to wrok out frustrations LOL). With a little trial and error, with one click i worked it out. Went into the "Input Selector Menu" and turned up XLR for L1. Was still hearing sound, go firgure. Then turned of XLR for R1. Same thing still getting sound. So i am like WTF.

Anyway got up went over to the speakers and there it was. One had the (L1) Mid/Tweets going and (R1) had the woofers going. SO all i ahve down is plugged the Woofers of one into the other and same goes for the Mids.

Should be fixed in a minute. Lesson learnt, "MARK" your cables son when you have bucket load of them behind your system you which ones to plug where.
post #5361 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSTI View Post

Is there a way to wipe all settings you have setup so far on the AVP/POA. I only ask, that now knowing what i know i would like to start from the begging thats all.

You can reset the processor, as described on page 72 of the manual.
post #5362 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by danielo View Post

Hai,

i am more then willing to add it to the wiki, i just joined under 'danielo2' (danielo was blocked?). But this wiki doesn't work like a normal wiki does. To me it makes sense to add a 'quick avp+poa setup' link in the setup section but i have no clue how todo it. The wiki looks more like a forum to me what do i do?

Daniel.

Daniel,

I just made you a Writer on the site.

So you should be able to go to the Tree list on the left and see an "Add page" option now.

So just click on http://avppoaowners.wetpaint.com/page/Setup and then hit "add page"
post #5363 of 25955
I got My Audyssey Pro kit, and have been at it all day. But boy, I hate serial communications. And I used to be a Comms App developer ....

It takes an hour+ to do a ten position test.

But early measured results look good. Will post some results as soon as I have them.

Got to go move the mic again ...
post #5364 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonFo View Post

I got My Audyssey Pro kit, and have been at it all day. But boy, I hate serial communications. And I used to be a Comms App developer ....

It takes an hour+ to do a ten position test.

But early measured results look good. Will post some results as soon as I have them.

Got to go move the mic again ...

How did you get the Pro kit? I've read all sorts of confusing discussion about how you can't just buy it unless you're "certified" or whatever, while others say you can just order it. What's the real deal on this?
post #5365 of 25955
Forgive me if this has already been answered, but I have a question about using 3 subs with the AVP. I am currently running a pair of JL Audio F113s. If I add a 3rd sub at SW3 i. e. LFE according to the manual, what will be the crossover? Won't it be the same as the other two? Thanks
post #5366 of 25955
Done with the Pro Calibration, whew! that took a while.

Doing a 10 position (twice, as the app crashed once due to a driver issue on one of my PC's) calibration, takes a while.

But the results are quite spectacular. Here is a link to my Audyssey Pro Calibration Certificate.

This cert shows very smooth response in the 'after'.

If anything, it does initially feel a bit 'bright', but then it's the absence of huge room resonances in the mid-bass and upper midrange that gives that impression.

Interesting note, the Pro software caught the fact that my fronts were inverting polarity (as it checks for absolute polarity) but the prior runs of built-in Audyssey had missed that.
A quick flick of the DriveRack settings and we fixed that pronto (as it was panels and subs that needed flipping, and not the woofers).

Enjoying some tunes now
post #5367 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonFo View Post

Done with the Pro Calibration, whew! that took a while.

Doing a 10 position (twice, as the app crashed once due to a driver issue on one of my PC's) calibration, takes a while.

But the results are quite spectacular. Here is a link to my Audyssey Pro Calibration Certificate.

This cert shows very smooth response in the 'after'.

If anything, it does initially feel a bit 'bright', but then it's the absence of huge room resonances in the mid-bass and upper midrange that gives that impression.

Interesting note, the Pro software caught the fact that my fronts were inverting polarity (as it checks for absolute polarity) but the prior runs of built-in Audyssey had missed that.
A quick flick of the DriveRack settings and we fixed that pronto (as it was panels and subs that needed flipping, and not the woofers).

Enjoying some tunes now

I can't get your site to fully load. I only get a few of the pictures.

Where do you get certified?
post #5368 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

How did you get the Pro kit? I've read all sorts of confusing discussion about how you can't just buy it unless you're "certified" or whatever, while others say you can just order it. What's the real deal on this?

Well, according to my shrink, I've been "Certified" for quite a while now ...

Seriously, all it takes is convincing the kind folks at Audyssey that you qualify to be a user. Which means you must have some experience with room measurement tools (Such as REW, R+D, Smaart, etc.)
A good understanding of acoustics (like what edge diffraction is, or a room resonance is and what it might look like on a waterfall plot). A well thumbed of copy of the Master Handbook of Acoustics is a must-have.
Being able to explain the diff between IIR and FIR filters gets you bonus points.

The concern they would have (and I sympathize) is that if an inexperienced user got hold of this tool, they would have to do hours and hours (= $$$) of support. So either you can prove (with links to published works) your knowledge or you go to one of their training courses and become "certified".
post #5369 of 25955
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonFo View Post

Well, according to my shrink, I've been "Certified" for quite a while now ...

Seriously, all it takes is convincing the kind folks at Audyssey that you qualify to be a user. Which means you must have some experience with room measurement tools (Such as REW, R+D, Smaart, etc.)
A good understanding of acoustics (like what edge diffraction is, or a room resonance is and what it might look like on a waterfall plot). A well thumbed of copy of the Master Handbook of Acoustics is a must-have.
Being able to explain the diff between IIR and FIR filters gets you bonus points.

The concern they would have (and I sympathize) is that if an inexperienced user got hold of this tool, they would have to do hours and hours (= $$$) of support. So either you can prove (with links to published works) your knowledge or you go to one of their training courses and become "certified".

Thanks!
post #5370 of 25955
Regarding Audyssey pro, I believe they are planning to come out with a 'consumer' version of the software in the near future that lets users adjust target curves and perform additional EQ manipulations beyond what you get with the built-in solution.

About the only thing I believe you'd miss out on would be the professional calibrated mic and preamp.

I think the stock mics are reasonable enough for most people.

Me, I have acute OCD when it comes to audio and acoustics. I have four mics and two mic stands lying around my room today, if that don't tell 'ya something, I don't know what will
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