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Philips Plasma TV - Half Black Screen - Page 2

post #31 of 68

I'm sharing the same pain as most of you with the Phillips 42PF9630A/37 42' plasma. I've had it for a couple of years and about 6 months ago it started "blacking out" half the screen and since then it's gotten worse. Now, it will work for say 20 minutes then the entire screen will go black or a burst of colors will flicker. The audio still works but I have to shut off the tv for a period of time then turn it back on. It usually will just act right back up again and go black. I want to take a flame thrower to it at this point!

My dilemma is should I I have it repaired (I'm quoted at roughly $300 just for the labor and that doesn't include parts) and roll the dice or just bite the bullet and purchase a new TV? Does anyone have any success stories in having a repair done and what it cost?

Any opinions would be appreciated!
post #32 of 68
Originally Posted by chris68973 View Post

I own unfourtionatly a phillips plasma tv that decided to develop a black, five inch strip that goes completly across the screen horizontaly and the picture is very grainy and little red specs all around

Hey Chris - so in regards to the red specs, I did some hunting and all signs pointed to a voltage issues. I was daring and opened the back, 50 screws later I was able to get inside. I made minute adjustments to the "V" pots, V1, VC, etc... and now it is 99% dancing pixel free. I can see then ocassionaly if I am close to the tv and/or there is an oddly colored muddy scene. Hope that helps, I posted this elsewhere on the site, but can't seem to find the link.

Here's my previous post....

All I have to say is thank you to this forum!! Helped me with my red dot issue!
Well I think I am over Plasma all together, LCD all the way. I have Philips 50" Plasma for a little under 3 years now. The red dot issue started about a year ago. It progressed to the point where any dark/muddy scenes would be plagued with red, almost a third of the screen that I could see sitting 6-8 feet away. I searched and searched, only to find out it wasn't just a problem with Philips, but many Plasmas, as you probably all know by now. I saw a few posts here and there saying it was a voltage issue. Yesterday I had enough, I searched and came across this post. A few people said to adjust the pots Va, VB and VScan. Well I didn't want to pay a tech to come out and charge me an arm and a leg for something they wouldn't/couldn't fix. 50 screws later I took the back panel off, in the upper middle of the TV was a PCB with the Vscan pot. I marked the original locations, had a DVD paused on a nice muddy scene and and gave the pots a slight turn, after a few minutes I found the VScan and Va did the the trick, I turn Vscan about one and half ticks and Va about one tick. 98.9% of the red dots are gone!
post #33 of 68
I unfortunately am in the same boat as you guys with the half black screen. I have a 50PF7320A/37 that I purchased in March of 2007. It started going half black about 3 months ago, which of course was right after the warranty ended. I find that banging on the front of the bezel on the top right or bottom right corner (facing the TV) makes it go away. Even squeezing or slightly rotating/shaking the TV also will make the half black flicker on and off, which makes me think something is just loose somewhere. However, as the weeks go by, the problem is getting more frequent. I am afraid that one of these times that I hit the TV will be the death of it. I have sent an email to scott.m.weisenhoff@philips.com & I'll let you know what I get in response.

Anyone that has gotten this repaired, can you tell me what parts were replaced to fix this problem?
post #34 of 68
Thread Starter 
Here's an update on my issue.

I sent an email to Philips execs and they agreed to fix my TV. The repair shop called, I described what was going on and they instantly knew what was wrong.

They said they needed to replace 3 parts (Y buffer down control board, Y buffer upper control board, Y buffer main control board). Upper controls the top half, down controls the bottom half, and the main board controls the 2 other boards. The repair guy said that it might only be 1 of the boards that are bad but just in case, they always replace all three. If you have the parts (or can get them) it's pretty easy to swap those out. A million screws to keep track of, but just unplugging the 3 boards and plugging the new ones back in...

Anyway, problem was that the Y Buffer Upper (which was my main problem - top half not working) was on backorder (and is still on backorder). It's been 4-5 months... since it has been so long and no forseeable end, they have agreed to replace the TV. (Unfortunately it isn't a brand new 2008 model, but an older model that is supposed to be new). I'm hoping I don't have the same issue with the new one.

I only had the 42" so it might not be the same boards for the 50".. not sure. They might have the parts for your model.
post #35 of 68
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by puppetpimp View Post

how does a group of folks go about getting a company to issue a recall?

I mentioned that in an email to Mr. Zeven earlier this year. He didn't respond to my statement about a recall, but instead forwarded me to the escalation group to get my tv repaired/replaced.
post #36 of 68
thanks for the info. i havent heard anything back from my email to philips. who did you email there?

in the meantime i'll see if I can't find those boards myself.
post #37 of 68
I have the y board and buffer issue i think. I posted some parts I found that are said to be the equivilant of the onces spec'd for philips. They are a wee bit cheaper. I am just curious if this is too good to be true, because they are in stock. Find my other post for the exact parts.

post #38 of 68
I have a Phillips 50 inch Plasma. About two months out of warranty the top half of the screen would go black. Sometimes when we tapped on the back behind the upper right hand corner the picture would return. I did some research online and found that there is a Main Y sustain board (much like a mother board in a computer) and connected to that board is a upper Y Buffer board and a Lower Y buffer board. According to my research these boards seem to be the source of the problem. I am assuming that the upper buffer controls the top half of my screen and the lower controls the bottom. I removed the back of my TV (about 50 small screws) and searched for these parts by part number. Surprisingly all of the parts in my Phillips are made by Samsung. I found the parts on ebay at shopjimmy.com. I decided to try replacing the upper Y buffer first. I ordered it from shopjimmy for about 100.00. When I received the part I started to remove my upper Y buffer and realized that the new part was slightly different. The part number was the same but the REV. number was slightly different. The new part was missing a small white connector that connects the upper buffer to the lower buffer. I sent it back for an exchange for the right part with no problem. Ok so here is the interesting piece of this little adventure. When I started to remove my upper Y buffer I removed the screws and started to pull on it to loosen it. When I noticed that I had the wrong part I pushed it back into place and put the screws back . My TV has worked perfectly since I did that with my original part. It has only been about two months, but if you are in the same situation it might be worth a try.
post #39 of 68
Alas, I too bought this POS plasma and had the half black screen thing start happening about a year and a half in. After reading a bunch of sites and posts from people with this same issue I decided to take things into my own hands.
I pulled the TV down, tossed it on the couch and took the back off(what did I have to lose right?). Now I'm not saying that what I did will definitely fix your tv but it just might.

Here is what I did:
Looking at the back of the TV(back removed) on the left hand side you will see 2 long skinny circuit boards, one above the other. These 2 boards are plugged into 1 larger board. I found ( by turning the TV on and pushing on these two connections) that they were the cause of the black half screen issue for me.

How to fix it, (got to be careful here and a bit stupid probably) I unscrewed the two small boards from the case and unplugged them from the larger circuit board. Then I unscrewed the one large curcuit board and lifted it up enough so I could see under it. Now under that large circuit board is a bunch of layers of rubber padding. I simply removed one or two layers of this padding and put every thing back to gether.

The Theory:
There is too much padding there causing this large circuit board to be slighly higher then the two smaller boards( i could this before removing the padding). this creates a strain on those connections when all the boards are screwed in place. I guessed that that strain gets even worse after the TV heats up (maybe it expands the rubber padding??).

Any way I have never had the issue since so if your patient and good with your hands give it a try. I'd love to know if it works for others.
post #40 of 68
Fortunately here in Australia Philips has a 3 year warranty on most of its products.
I have a 42PF 9966 which has had the half black screen. This was fixed in May 2007 but since then the panel has again been in for warranty work three times.
The upper and lower buffers were replaced in September 2007 and again in October of this year, 2008.

Currently the panel is back as the display now takes anywhere from 5 minutes to 4 hours to appear.
The service agents tell me that repairs to this panel have cost Philips $700 the last time, $500 the previous time and $350 the time before that.

My warranty is finally up in a months time and it will be interesting to see how long the panel lasts.
In fairness to Philips we originally purchased our original panel in 2002 and it was twice completely replaced by Philips between 2003 and 2005.

I'm not sure what we will do if it breaks again, the only consolation is that our original purchase cost of $10000 will be considerably less in 2009.

However having seen most of the leading brands both cheap and not so cheap, the only conclusion we have come to is to place a lot of purchase weight on the length of the warranty.
post #41 of 68
i had the same issue a while back and i was in the process of documenting the issues with the 1/2 black screen. anyhow, after a few incidents where the tv would go 1/2 black, the entire screen went. however during that time period i was very careful not to over heating the unit by installing a temp sensor on top with an additional fan always kicking in air behind the set. my guess is that the main fault might be the design overall and no amount of "normal" fanning will prevent it from doing down hill.

luckily i still have extended warranty and they've been trying to fix it. so far both boards have been replaced and the culprit seems to be the plasma screen itself. oh well. i'll stick to lcds next time.
post #42 of 68
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

Certainly no brand is immune from the occasional defect or component failure, but the Pioneers and Panasonics are less prone to fail than the Philips/Magnavox/LG/Zenith bunch. They're just not as reliable as the big names.

Well I have a less than 2 month old Pioneer 6020 that is doing the same thing. I'm putting in a call to them today on this issue. It is under warranty but as others have stated, I'm only getting a picture on the bottom half of the screen. I eliminated all other variables. Tried different HDMI cables, elminated the tuner completely from the list by plugging straight into the PS3 and then straight into the DVD player, etc. just to make sure it wasn't something else.

Not looking forward to this phone call to them though...
post #43 of 68
some good info in this thread since i last checked it. my situation has gotten worse. i went from having the top and/or bottom go all black intermittantly, to the entire screen all black all the time. i have gotten no love from philips, since it is 6 months past the warranty. so i got a samsung PN50A450 for a good deal on black friday (love it so far, BTW) because i had pretty much given up on the philips. i was about to put it on craigslist as is for like $200, or whatever i could get for it, but these recent solutions look promising. i think i will be taking it apart during christmas break now that i have some free time. if i can fix it for free and then sell it that would be awesome.

thanks for the ideas, jackdenglish and Croaker_f2.
post #44 of 68
I have a 42" Visio, not a great tv but works. I have been experiencing the same problems as everyone of you. Here is my fix to this problem. unscrew half of the back panel and grab it in the middle and left side and twist. It might take a couple of tries but so far my tv is still working for a couple of days. If you know what is wrong, please tell me, because I have tried to tighten everything up.
post #45 of 68
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by montana80 View Post

I have a 42" Visio, not a great tv but works. I have been experiencing the same problems as everyone of you. Here is my fix to this problem. unscrew half of the back panel and grab it in the middle and left side and twist. It might take a couple of tries but so far my tv is still working for a couple of days. If you know what is wrong, please tell me, because I have tried to tighten everything up.

My understanding from speaking to the TV repair folks who came to work on mine, this problem is almost always linked to those Y buffer boards. there are 3 of them. 1 controls the top half of the display, 1 controls the bottom half, and the is the main Y-buffer controls that sends the signals to the 2 other boards. If only the top half is going out, it could be the upper Y buffer control OR the main Y buffer. If it is the bottom it could be the lower Y buffer OR the main Y buffer. If both are going out, it could be a malfunction (or loose connection) in 1, 2, or all 3 boards. The guy who worked on my screen said they usually replace all 3 at the same time.

For those DIY folks, as others mentioned, getting the right boards can be difficult (and expensive). For tech savvy or mechanically inclined folks, it isn't that difficult to swap them out. I'd recommend taking some digital images first just in case you forget how something goes.

A friend of mine has a Samsung that is doing the same thing and he wants to just trash it. I'm debating whether to take it off his hands and see if I can get it back up and running.
post #46 of 68
jackdenglish & Croaker_f2: Thanks for the very helpful information. I am having the half black screen problem with my Philips 42 inch 42PF7220A. I am trying to take out the lower y-buffer board from the y-main. I feel silly asking this but I am stuck: what is the trick to disconnecting the y-upper or y-lower from the y-main? I don't want to break anything in the process of taking this apart.
post #47 of 68
I wanted to share my solution to this problem. Not only is it an easy fix (aside from taking the tv apart) but it also explains some of the strange methods I've read that have worked, such as taking out padding from behind the boards or putting a magazine under one side and even tapping on the tv for a temporary fix.

Granted its only been a few days of it working but I tell you this....It's not done the half black screen once! And trust me when I say it was doing it constantly.

Ok so first off the problem definitely lies in the upper/lower buffer boards. On the model mentioned by the OP (same model I have) it's located on the same side as the power button (right side when you are looking at the tv).

Ok so you've got the tv openned face down on a non static surface. Btw I was shocked at how many youtube videos I found of ppl working on their tvs while its laid flat on their sofas!

When you are looking into it you will see on one side there are two vertical boards hooked up to another board more towards the center. These two boards are your upper and lower boards that provide the upper and lower picture. The problem I was having was in the lower section of the tv going black so obviously that corresponded to the lower board. (They are labelled upper and lower if you look closely)
So here is what I did:

I noticed the lower board was not sitting flush so I unscrewed the one screw on the bottom and noticed how much of a gap was in the screw hole. The problem was it was screwed down in such a way that one of the connections going to the main board was not making it's proper connection. So I just gave it a little push towards the center, held it, and screwed it back down.

That's it! It's fixed now. No need for replacing anything. Just poorly drilled holes and a few things not lining up correctly!

So hopefully anyone else that's having this same problem might have some luck in using this fix. Good Luck!
post #48 of 68
I just want to second what timbreman said above. I too have the Phillips 42" Plasma that is mentioned by the original poster.

What happened: 2 months ago I noticed the bottom half of my screen go black for just a second. I thought it was the Sat programing. A few days passed and it did it again. Over the next few weeks, it became more and more prevalent to the point it happened every time the TV was used within an hour of turning it on.

What I did: I opened up the Plasma. Found the Lower buffer board (as I was having trouble with the bottom half of my screen). Unscrewed the screw that held the board in place, pushed the board towards the main board firmly while i tightened the screw back down. Cleaned the dust from the TV and put it back together.

Now, 3 weeks in... Haven't seen a problem yet. While this may not be a permanent fix, it has gone from doing it everytime within the hour, to not doing it at all.

Note: I never saw a problem with the way the boards sit or the connections between them. I just tried what the poster above did to see if that would work before looking at other options.
post #49 of 68
Did you find the problem for your Philip? I am having exactly the same problems and I am thinking to order the parts and try to repair it by myself
post #50 of 68
Based on the experiences of the valiant pioneers, I finally decided to try to service my 42PF7320A which had the, all too common, half black screen problem.

My 42PF7320A was purchased new at Sams club in November of 2005 for $1900 + tax = $2150. Final assembly was done in Mexico. I believe the manufacturing date was some time in the spring of 2005. The first time I ever saw a half black screen was in August of 2007, so the warranty was expired. The problem would generally clear on its own, and was fairly rare. Lately, it has been somewhat more common, but I could still pretty much live with it. As a rule, the TV is only used a couple of hours a day. It would typically be OK for at least an hour. Then the bottom half might flash black or rainbow. I could get the full picture back by tapping on the right rear of the case, which would almost always buy me at least a half hour. Since its just the wife and me, the situation was almost bearable. I was not willing to spend a lot of money on service, or to have it in a shop for weeks since I can get a new 47" LCD for 1/2 of what I had payed for this. However, I was also reluctant to do anything drastic and create an 85 lb paperweight that I had payed over $2000 for.

The reports of successful, no cost service, over the last few month got me to the point where I took a crack at it on Thursday.

I used the following tools:
T-10 Torx bit
T-25 Torx bit
Fully charged drill driver that could be set for a very low torque.
Philips screw drivers 1-3
1/4" flat blade screw driver.
Rigid blocks(4" minimum thickness) to support the TV face down.
ESD wrist strap.

My set used the Philips stand, as opposed to a wall-mount.

I moved the set onto a sturdy table with the outside edges of the frame setting on the blocks and rotated it down so that the center and top of the outside edges were also resting on the blocks.

I used a #3 Philips to remove the (2) screws that locked the stand to the back of the set. Then I removed the caps from the tops of the stand, and slid the stand off of the studs. Then I used the T-25 Torx bit to remove all 4 studs. The lower pair had supported the stand. The upper pair were not in use. I presume they are used my some wall-mount hardware.

Then I started removing the screws that secure the main back panel using the T-10 Torx bit in my drill driver. I had some cups out to keep the hardware organized. I believe there were 30 longer screws on the perimeter of the panel. I believe there were about 17 slightly shorter sheet metal screws in the field of the panel. Note: 2 of the screws were pointed up on the indented section of the panel. The panel was finally free, and I gently removed it, taking care not to touch anything inside the TV during the process.

You don't want any power on the set while you are working on it, but you still want it grounded. I don't have an ESD safe workstation that could accommodate the TV, so I plugged the TV power cord into a switched power strip plugged into a wall outlet with the power strip switched off when working inside the TV. That way the chassis and neutral were both grounded, but there was no power to the TV. Warning: Even if the TV is turned off, there will be power to some of the standby circuitry, if it is plugged into a live outlet. Then I connected my ESD wrist strap clip to the chassis to keep me discharged.

Unlike Croaker_f2 who worked on this problem, there was no padding under the boards in my TV.

Sorry! I forgot to break out the camera.

I checked out the 2 Video drive cards that are on the left side when viewed from the rear, They are essentially mirror images. They each had 2 connectors which connected them to the mother board and one connector that joined them. I had to remove 2 screws that locked down a metal frame that ran along the top of the unit, since it blocked the screw on the upper card. Once the screws were out, I could slide the frame up a little and its tabs came out of chassis. I moved it as little as possible to avoid strain on the cables attached to it.

Then I removed the single screw from each of the drive cards using a #1 or #2 Philips screw driver. On my set, each drive card had a larger black connector with a latch that had to be lifted up to release it, and a smaller white connector that also connected it to the mother board. I tried to avoid placing any unnecessary strain on the connectors joining the drive cards or on the cables and connectors that connect the drivers to the plasma screen. With the latch held up, I used the 1/4" flat blade screw driver to VERY GENTLY nudge the black connectors apart. I worked the 2 boards in very small increments so that I could keep the boards in line and not place any unnecessary strain on the connector between them. I got the drive cards fully unplugged from the mother board. Then I pushed them back onto the mother board keeping the pressure as even as possible on the 2 boards until they were firmly seated. Then I reinstalled the screws that locked the driver cards to the chassis studs.

Again, being as gentle as possible, I slid the tabs on the upper frame back into the chassis and installed the 2 screws that held it in place.

Now I could remove the power plug and my ESD strap clip, and reinstall the back panel. Then it was just a mater of reinstalling all the panel screws and all the other hardware.

I stood the unit back up on its stand and placed it back on the cabinet it normally sits on. I reconnected the antenna and power cord and plugged the power cord directly into a wall outlet.

Next came the moment of truth. I turned on the TV. The full screen displayed an image! Then I tried a tap test. The image was stable!

The TV has only been on for few hours since I did the work, but I am quite optimistic. Before I did the work, the bottom half would would go on and off with very gentle tapping. Now it seems stable.

This may not be permanent, but maybe I have bought myself a few years. Here's hoping. All I have invested is a little time.

I do like the set. It is a good size for the room, and it has something most new sets don't have - Video outout. The Stereo Audio out it provides works with my old receiver to provide reasonable surround sound. If I got a new TV, I might have to get a new receiver. That would create another problem since new receivers don't have an input compatible with my turntable. No laughing please! My audio gear is long in the tooth, but sounds fine to me. For the record, I do have a CD player (holds 5 CDs), but I have some old classic records I want to be able play. I'm in my early 60s, so my hearing is not as demanding as that of the younger crowd.

Anyway, I thought I would share my experience. Again my thanks to the pioneers who shared their experiences and gave me the courage to give this a try.
post #51 of 68
Status Update 9-20-09:
It has been a little over 3 weeks since I re-seated the upper and lower drive cards on my Philips 42PF7320. I believe it has been on almost every day for a few hours. Everything has been fine. I have not seen any 1/2 black screen occurrences.
post #52 of 68
I followed kenavs method and and opened up my Philips 50PF7320A/37 to fix the top half of the screen going black. My "workaround" up until now for the issue was to press on the top right corner of the TV between the glass and the speaker so I was fairly certain that it was caused by pressure on the connector caused by the black rubber padding. After I took the cover off and found the skinny circuit board LJ92-01047A Drive Y B(up) in that area. I removed the 3 screws, the 3 ribbon cables and lifted the "lever" on the connector between the Drive Y(up) and the Drive Y(low). Unfortunately I broke the tab on the black connector between the Drive Y(up) and the Y Main when I was removing the Y(up) so be careful.

Under the Drive Y(up) circuit board was a black rubber strip that was partially under the black connector so the pins on the underside of the PCB were pressing into the rubber padding. I adjusted the black padding so that it was no longer under the pins and reinstalled the Drive Y(up) board. Put the back cover on, hung the TV and have not experienced the issue since.

I had a friend help me with lifting the TV off and back on the wall, and the whole thing took about 1 hour and 15 min.

Thanks to everyone that has helped identify the cause and the fix to this issue.
post #53 of 68
I followed kenavs exact steps....I too have had luck...so far. It has only been 15 minutes, but the black screen has not happened, yet. Which is better than what it was.
post #54 of 68
Originally Posted by srussell879 View Post

I followed kenavs exact steps....I too have had luck...so far. It has only been 15 minutes, but the black screen has not happened, yet. Which is better than what it was.

I hope I don't jinx something, but I have not seen the half black screen problem for over 4 months.
Good luck to you!
post #55 of 68
Thanks to everyone that posted this... very useful info, as my Phillips plasma has been having the lower half black-screen for months...I usually got through it temporarily by bumping the top right of the TV lightly. Luckily, it didn't seem to get noticeably worse over time, so I lived with it until I felt like tackling the problem.

I also seem to have fixed it (ok with 3 hr test) by loosening the screw of the lower buffer board, and re tightening while pushing it toward the main board. There were no visible misalignments with mine or loose connections, but obviously one or more pins must have had a poor connection. I didn't remove the board entirely, only adjusted it. Will post further info if there are any updates.
post #56 of 68
Another success (so far so good anyway)! Had the lower half of the screen going blank more and more frequently. I was so frustrated (and several years out of warranty) I had just begun looking for deals w/ free shipping on CompUSA. I had already tried everything everyone else did (i.e. continually looking for firmware updates and even re-installing over and over again). Finally, thanks to some google searching, I found this forum and thread.

After following the instructions of others, I too loosened, repositioned, and re-tightened the lower board after removing the back. Usually within an hour of TV power on, the black screen would start intermittently. Three days running and no reoccurrence! A $6 investment (torx bits for the cordless drill) and an hour and a half of my time - well worth it!

One note of caution I haven't seen in the thread - be really careful when removing and replacing the screws on the back. The mounts they screw into are pretty cheap and seemed to snap off pretty easy (at least one of them did in my experience). Once it's snapped it's long gone and you'd need to do a lot more serious dismantling of the chassis to find it and glue it back on.
post #57 of 68
I know this is an old topic, but hopefully someone will see this. I have a 42PF9431D/37 and had the same problem - bottom half of the screen would go black. For quite a long time, just tapping the right of the frame would solve the problem.

However, now it's taken a turn for the worse and the whole picture is kinda pixulated - I don't know how to describe it, but I'm sure someone will understand what I mean. Kinda fuzzy, slightly off colors, and a few faint horizontal lines throughout.

Wondering if it's still the Y Buffer problem and if so, would replacing them (and/or the main) solve the problem? Any things I should try? Also, does anyone have the actual part numbers for the boards I should replace? I've found some on line but just not exactly sure what I should be getting. Some people here have recommended replacing all three - upper, lower and main. Or has the problem spread to elsewhere?

post #58 of 68
Originally Posted by DWSpiro View Post

I know this is an old topic, but hopefully someone will see this. I have a 42PF9431D/37 and had the same problem - bottom half of the screen would go black. For quite a long time, just tapping the right of the frame would solve the problem.

However, now it's taken a turn for the worse and the whole picture is kinda pixulated - I don't know how to describe it, but I'm sure someone will understand what I mean. Kinda fuzzy, slightly off colors, and a few faint horizontal lines throughout.

Wondering if it's still the Y Buffer problem and if so, would replacing them (and/or the main) solve the problem? Any things I should try? Also, does anyone have the actual part numbers for the boards I should replace? I've found some on line but just not exactly sure what I should be getting. Some people here have recommended replacing all three - upper, lower and main. Or has the problem spread to elsewhere?


My TV is a 42PF7320A. I was able to treat the half-black screen problem by re-seating the Y-Buffer cards. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post17083910 That did not cost anything but my time, and has bought me well over a year.

Personally, I would not spend any money on my unit. IMHO: A replacement is just too cheap to justify spending any significant amount on shotgun repair attempts. I definitely feel that way about paying someone to attempt to repair the half-black screen problem. Since it is extremely intermittent, a repair service could swap out ANY board, and say they fixed it, since they did not observe a failure after the repair attempt. When I had the problem, I could watch the TV for hours, and the problem could come and go (for a few minutes, or even less) without any action on my part. No repair company is going to pay someone to watch the TV for hours, and even if they did, I found the problem to be unpredictable enough that even that extreme measure would not guarantee the problem was really gone.

It would be painful, to give away, or throw away, a TV that almost worked and that I had paid over $2,000 for, but I believe a comparable replacement would be less than a third of that, and would come with a full year warranty. Based on what I have seen asked for replacement modules, a repair service could easily charge more than the cost of a brand new replacement TV to attempt to repair my TV, and the most generous warranty I would expect to get would be 90 days. If I had your problem with my TV, I would re-seat the buffer boards. If that did not get the TV to a point that I could live with it, I would go shopping for a new TV.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
post #59 of 68
Unless you TV has the Ambilight feature, it hardly pays to fix a multi-year old plasma TV for anything other than problems like the 7-blinking LEDs (fixed with $5 in capacitors).

A much better 1080p plasma can be bought for $700 or so, a $720p model for $400 or so.
post #60 of 68
So thanks to you kind posters I successfully opened up my 50" philips plasma which had been suffering from the half black screen problem, and usually blacked out about 30-60 minutes after the TV was turned on.

I took a pic for others to see since that was all that's missing from this awesome thread, and I came here to post it. But I guess I need 3 posts first before I can add it, so feel free to skip down to see it.
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