Do you thrash your woofers?

I ended up blowing one of my 18" passive radiators (2 per cube + driver). When the weight separates from the face you get a nice hammering sound from the sub. Fortunately it's an easy fix with glue (vs burning a voice coil or blowing an amp).

Its just the amps way of screaming from the pain of her voice.. ROFL.. j/k

Missy Elliott <-- thats the problem

Lucky the amp did not leak its caps the moment the "singing started" and voice coils produce the blue smoke!

Yep, clip lights lighting up pretty regularily on my QSC PLXII 3102, driving a TC 3000 15" in a 3.3 net cube sealed box. Takes it like a champ, and not one whimper of distress. Amp is bridged, and all 4 coils wired in series.

Me too. Gave my RE XXX18 everything one of my CE4000's had, bridged into it, with the vc's in series at 4ohms during testing. I was using Crowbar's cd Oddfellows rest track #3. Tons of sub 30hz bass on this track. Oh yeah that was free-air. I would not do that with many subs. I think many less substantial subs would've had bad issues.

No... I really baby them. I never turn the knob past 9:00 O-clock and I only listen to elevator music.

It is an XJ-15 that one of my customers smoked. If you look at the former its been smacked against the back plate in addition to the coil being cooked.

Seriously? I know the 3000 is beastly, but the 3102 should be as well...I mean...it must be quite loud if the clip lights are regularly coming on. Thats 1600W+, right?

Mike shakes his eardrums,the Beast replica is not enough ! But he does not have Bosso's 3.5Hz !!!

Seriously.

QSC rates the amp to do 2100 into 8R bridged.... but even if it does 1800 watts... still lots of juice. I can trip the breaker in about 8 seconds flat with program material such as Disturbed. No maladities such as what Kevin posted above, and I did a "mini" marathon fest cranking tunes at clipping levels for about 7 hours.

The box was hot ( yes! ), the surround hot, the basket hot, and when I flopped the box on it's back, I threw a wet cloth on the cone with an icepack. 8 machine screws later I was lifting the 3000 out of the box.... motor was damn hot, probably 250+ F. I detatched the top assy with an allen key and threw the motor out on the concrete steps to cool. ( hey it was about -26C or so )

Some extra epoxy on the long former got burned off, but no problem with the coil at all.

Mike,

You should install a heatpipe,from basket/motor linked to the outside.

Arthur... sent you an email... call me if you have time.

Actually it wasn't what I emailed him about... it was a few questions about a woofer that he has in his possession.

You are sure about emails I get ! I did not know spies follow my every move and post.Like Mike said your guess was wrong.

I have many ideas regarding subs I will apply to my future sub designs (not heatpipe related).

Arthur is just being sarcastic with ideas I posted in another thread.

I heard some want to reach DC and will use liquid cooling ,to bring driver motor assemblies near absolute zero. All this while remaining "practical" .

Most pro and high end stuff will survive at 400 degree coil temps. A thermometer that only goes to 203 would probably be on the high end with 150-200 watts input.

Wasn't what I said, get your story straight Arthur.

Anyways, freezing temperature is very practical. With a liquid cooled peltier you can achieve -40F on the peltier pretty easily.
$50 for a 62mm peltier off of ebay.
$200 for a water cooling kit including block.

Seem fairly practical to me. You spend $900 for a driver but can't find $250-$300 reasonable for cooling?

There is a bit of a difference between -40F and absolute zero, about 420F however, with those acoupower drivers, they are flushing so much air in and out of the motor that its more practical to cool the air around it rather than the outside of the heatsinks. It'd be nice get a setup that cools the air inside the box to subzero temps and just lets the drivers airflow do the cooling work, you don't want massive hot/cold spots in the motor itself as that will cause it to warp and put a lot of strain on the metal ware.

Exactly.

I ran the Acoupower drivers at over 2 inches of excusion and ...there is major air being moved to cool the VC/magnet. Major air,there is no way you can roast those voice coils unless serious abuse is done.

I should post videos,maybe I will on YouTube...

You have people with $4.99 drivers posting vids there,why should the world not see the Acoupower in all its glory,excusion glory that is.

Use more drivers is the obvious answer.

If you made the inside of the box cold that would alter the air density versus the outside, that can't be great for the tuning either